A study of dissipation of wind-waves by mud at Cassino Beach, Brazil: Prediction and inversion

Continental Shelf Research

Volumn 29, Issue 3, 2009, Pages 676-690

  Rogers, W Erick ^a   Holland, K Todd ^b  

^a NAVAL RESEARCH LABORATORY   (United States)

^b STENNIS SPACE CENTER   (United States)

Author keywords

(53 W, 32 S) (52 W, 33 S) ; Cassino Beach); Mud; Rheology (Brazil; Rio Grande do Sol; SWAN; Wave analysis; Wave attenuation; Wave damping; Wave dissipation; Wave hindcasting; Wave model; Wave predicting; Wave spectra

Indexed keywords

ECHO SOUNDER; MUD; NUMERICAL MODEL; RHEOLOGY; SEAFLOOR; STORM; WAVE ENERGY; WIND WAVE;

BRAZIL; SOUTH AMERICA;

EID: 61349185717     PISSN: 02784343     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/j.csr.2008.09.013     Document Type: Article

References (31)

1. Booij N., Ris R.C., and Holthuijsen L.H. A third-generation wave model for coastal regions, Part 1: Model description and validation. Journal of Geophysical Research 104 C4 (1999) 7649-7666
2. Cardone V.J., Graber H.C., Jensen R.E., Hasselmann S., and Caruso M.J. In search of the true surface wind field in SWADE IOP-1: Ocean wave modeling perspective. The Global Atmosphere and Ocean System 3 (1995) 107-150
3. Dalrymple R.A., and Liu P.L.-F. Waves over soft muds: a 2-layer fluid model. Journal of Physical Oceanography 8 (1978) 1121-1131
4. Dean R.G., and Dalrymple R.A. Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists (1991), World Scientific Publishing p. 353
5. De Wit, P.J., 1995. Liquefaction of cohesive sediment by waves. Ph.D. dissertation. Delft University of Technology, the Netherlands.
6. Dingemans, M.W., 1998. A review of the physical formulations in SWAN. WL|Delft Hydraulics Report H3306, Delft, the Netherlands, p. 69.
7. Gade H.G. Effects of a non-rigid, impermeable bottom on plane surface waves in shallow water. Journal of Marine Research 156 2 (1958) 61-82
8. Hasselmann, K., Coauthors, 1973. Measurements of wind wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP). Herausgegeben vom Deutsch. Hydrograph. Institut, Reihe A, 12, p. 95.
9. Hogan T.F., and Rosmond T.E. The description of the US Navy operational global atmospheric prediction system's spectral forecast models. Monthly Weather Review 119 (1991) 1786-1815
10. Holthuijsen, L.H., Booij, N., Ris, R.C., 1993. A spectral wave model for the coastal zone, In: Proceedings of the Second Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurements and Analysis, New Orleans, pp. 630-641.
11. Holthuijsen, L.H., Booij, N., Ris, R.C., and coauthors, 2006. SWAN Cycle III version 40.51 User Manual, p. 111 〈http://fluidmechanics.tudelft.nl/swan/index.htm〉.
12. Hsiao S.V., and Shemdin O.H. Interaction of ocean waves with a soft bottom. Journal of Physical Oceanography 10 (1980) 605-610
13. Jiang L., and Mehta A.J. Mudbanks of the southwest coast of India. IV: mud viscoelastic properties. Journal of Coastal Research 11 3 (1995) 918-926
14. Jiang L., and Mehta A.J. Mudbanks of the southwest coast of India. V: wave attenuation. Journal of Coastal Research 12 4 (1996) 890-897
15. Kaihatu J.M., Sheremet A., and Holland K.T. A model for the propagation of nonlinear surface waves over viscous muds. Coastal Engineering 54 10 (2007) 752-764
16. Komen G.J., Cavaleri L., Donelan M., Hasselmann K., Hasselmann S., and Janssen P.A.E.M. Dynamics and Modelling of Ocean Waves (1994), Cambridge University Press p. 532
17. Lygre A., and Krogstad H.E. Maximum entropy estimation of the directional distribution in ocean wave spectra. Journal of Physical Oceanography 16 (1986) 2052-2060
18. MacPherson H. The attenuation of water waves over a non-rigid bed. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 97 4 (1980) 721-742
19. Madsen O.S., Poon Y.-K., and Graber H.C. Spectral wave attenuation by bottom friction: Theory. The Proceedings of the 21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering (1988), ASCE, NewYork 492-504
20. Mei C.C., and Liu K.-F. A Bingham-plastic model for a muddy seabed under long waves. Journal of Geophysical Research 92 (1987) 14581-14594
21. Ng C.O. Water waves over a muddy bed: a two-layer Stokes' boundary layer model. Coastal Engineering 40 3 (2000) 221-242
22. Plant N.G., Holland K.T., and Puleo J.A. Analysis of the scale of errors in nearshore bathymetric data. Marine Geology 191 1-2 (2002) 71-86
23. Ris, R. C., 1997. Spectral modeling of wind waves in coastal areas. Ph.D. Thesis, Delft University of Technology, p. 160.
24. Rogers W.E., Hwang P.A., and Wang D.W. Investigation of wave growth and decay in the SWAN model: Three regional-scale applications. Journal of Physical Oceanography 33 (2003) 366-389
25. van der Westhuysen A.J., Zijlema M., and Battjes J.A. Nonlinear saturation-based whitecapping dissipation in SWAN for deep and shallow water. Coastal Engineering 54 2 (2007) 151-170
26. Vinzon, S.B., Winterwerp, J.C, Nogueira, R., Mud deposit formation on the open coast of the larger Patos Lagoon-Cassino Beach system. Continental Shelf Research, this volume, doi:10.1016/j.csr.2008.09.021.
27. WAMDI Group. The WAM model-A third generation ocean wave prediction model. Journal of Physical Oceanography 18 (1988) 1775-1810
28. Winterwerp J.C., de Graaff R.F., Groeneweg J., and Luyendijk A.P. Modelling of wave damping at Guyana mud coast. Coastal Engineering 54 (2007) 249-261
29. Yan, L., 1987. An improved wind input source term for third generation ocean wave modelling, Scientific report WR-No 87-8, De Bilt, The Netherlands.
30. Zhang X.-Y., and Ng C.-O. Mud-wave interaction: a viscoelastic model. China Ocean Engineering 20 1 (2006) 15-26
31. Zijlema M., and van der Westhuysen A.J. On convergence behaviour and numerical accuracy in stationary SWAN simulations of nearshore wind wave spectra. Coastal Engineering 52 3 (2005) 237-256