Yangzhou's "mondernity": Fashion and consumption in the early nineteenth century

Positions

Volumn 11, Issue 2, 2003, Pages 395-425

  Finnane, Antonia ^a  

^a NONE

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[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

EID: 60950740417     PISSN: 10679847     EISSN: 15278271     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1215/10679847-11-2-395     Document Type: Article

References (98)

1. Quentin Bell, On Human Finery (London: Allison and Busby, 1947), 59
2. Zhang Deyi, Diary of a Chinese Diplomat (Beijing: Chinese Literature Press, 1992), 176
3. Bell, On Human Finery, 59
4. Fernand Braudel, Capitalism and Material Life, 1400-1800, trans. Miriam Kochan (New York: Harper Colophon, 1967), 227
5. Kenneth Pomeranz, The Great Divergence: China, Europe, and the Making of the Modern World Economy (Princeton, N.J.: Princeton University Press, 2000), 156
6. Pomeranz's main source here is Shen Congwen, Zhongguo gudai fushi yanjiu [Research on Chinese clothing in former times] (Hong Kong: Shangwu yinshuguan Xianggang fenguan, 1992)
7. Craig Clunas, "Modernity Global and Local: Consumption and the Rise of the West," AHR, no. 104 (December 1999): 1497-1511
8. Braudel, Capitalism and Material Life, 226
9. See Craig Clunas, Superfluous Things: Material Culture and Social Status in Early Modern China (Cambridge: Polity, 1991)
10. Daedalus: Early Modernities 127, no. 3 (summer 1998)
11. Credit must go to the editor, Harriet T. Zurndorfer, who supplies the introduction to each volume and also contributes an article, "China and 'Modernity': The Uses of the Study of Chinese History in the Past and Present," Journal of the Economic and Social History of the Orient 40, no. 4 (1997): 461-485
12. For an affirmative statement on the use of "early modernity" in an Asian context, see Barbara Watson Andaya, "Historicising 'Modernity' in Southeast Asia," Journal of the Economic and Social History of the Orient 40, no. 4 (1997): 397
13. And for a sweeping rejection, see Jack Goldstone, "The Problem of the 'Early Modern' World," Journal of the Economic and Social History of the Orient 41, no. 3 (1998): 249-284
14. In the Chinese context, R. Bin Wong maintains a steady terminological distinction between "early modern England" and "late imperial China"; see Wong, China Transformed: Historical Change and the Limits of European Experience (Ithaca, N.Y: Cornell University Press, 1997)
15. Dorothy Ko has frankly rejected "early modernity" as a "translated rubric . . . more befuddling than enlightening"; see Ko, Teachers of the Inner Chambers: Women and Culture in China, 1573-1722 (Stanford, Calif.: Stanford University Press, 1994), 24
16. Ann Douglas, "Periodizing the American Century: Modernism, Postmodernism, and Post-colonialism in the Cold War Context," MODERNISM/modernity 5, no. 3 (September 1998): 71
17. Michel Foucault, "What Is Enlightenment?" in The Foucault Reader, ed. Paul Rabinow (Harmondsworth, U.K.: Penguin, 1984), 39
18. Clunas, "Modernity Global and Local," 1498
19. Dipesh Chakrabarty, Provincializing Europe (Princeton, N.J.: Princeton University Press, 2000)
20. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Orientalism: Visions of the East in Western Dress (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1994), 23
21. Michael Sullivan, The Meeting of Eastern and Western Art: From the Sixteenth Century to the Present Day (London: Thames and Hudson, 1973), 68
22. C. R. Boxer, ed., South China in the Sixteenth Century (The Hague: M. Nijhoff, 1967)
23. Juan Gonzalez de Mendoza, History of the Great and Mighty Kingdom of China, trans. R. Parke, ed. Sir George T Staunton (London: Hakluyt Society, 1853)
24. Matteo Ricci, China in the Sixteenth Century: The Journals of Matthew Ricci, 1583-1610, trans. Louis Gallagher (New York: Random House, 1953)
25. Pomeranz, Great Divergence
26. Joanna Waley-Cohen, The Sextants of Beijing: Global Currents in Chinese History (New York: W W Norton, 1999)
27. Andre Gunder Frank, ReOrient: Global Economy in the Asian Age (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1998)
28. See, most recently, Leo Ou-fan Lee, Shanghai Modern: The Flowering of a New Urban Culture in China, 1930-1945 (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1999)
29. Sherman Cochran, ed., Inventing Nanjing Road: Commercial Culture in Shanghai, 1900-1945 (Ithaca, N.Y.: East Asia Program, Cornell University, 1999)
30. Peter Burke, "Res et Verba: Conspicuous Consumption in the Early Modern World," in Consumption and the World of Goods, ed. John Brewer and Roy Porter (London: Routledge, 1993), 151
31. The classic, much-cited essay on this city, on which Burke draws, is Ping-ti Ho, "The Salt Merchants of Yang-chou: A Study of Commercial Capitalism in Eighteenth-Century China," Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies 17 (June 1954): 130-164
32. Jonathan Hay, Shitao: Painting and Modernity in Early Qing China (New York: Cambridge University Press, 2001), 19
33. See Ho, "Salt Merchants of Yang-chou."
34. On opera in Yangzhou, see Colin P. Mackerras, The Rise of Peking Opera: Social Aspects of the Theatre in Manchu China (Oxford: Clarendon, 1972), chap. 3
35. On gardens, see Zhu Jiang, Yangzhou yuanlin pinshang lu [An appreciation of the gardens of Yangzhou] (Shanghai: Shanghai wenwu chubanshe, 1984)
36. Ginger Cheng-chi Hsü, A Bushel of Pearls: Painting for Sale in Eighteenth-Century Yangchow (Stanford, Calif.: Stanford University Press, 2001)
37. Li Dou, Yangzhou huafang lu [Chronicle of the painted barques of Yangzhou] (preface 1795) (Yangzhou: Jiangsu Guangling guji keyinshe, 1984)
38. For a review of this historiographical shift, see Harriet T. Zurndorfer, "From Local History to Cultural History: Reflections on Some Recent Publications," T'oung Pao 83 (1997): 387-396
39. Hay, Shitao, 18-23
40. Timothy Brook, The Confusions of Pleasure: Commerce and Culture in Ming China (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1998), 220-222
41. Wei Minghua, Yangzhou shouma [Thin horses of Yangzhou] (Fuzhou: Fujian renmin chubanshe, 1998), 153
42. Wu Ren-shu, "Mingdai pingmin baoshi de liuxing fengshang yu shidafu de fanying" [Popular styles of clothing among the common people of Ming times, and the reaction of the gentry], Xinshixue [New historical studies] 10, no. 3 (September 1999): 55-109
43. Dorothy Ko, "Bondage in Time: Footbinding and Fashion Theory," Fashion Theory 1, no. 1 (1997): 3-27
44. Christopher Breward, The Culture of Fashion: A New History of Fashionable Dress (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1995), 54-57
45. Wei, Yangzhou shouma, 143
46. Craig Clunas, Pictures and Visuality in Early Modern China (Princeton, N.J.: Princeton University Press, 1997), 13
47. See Antonia Finnane, "Enlightened Observations: Analogy, Comparison, and Cultural Relativism in European Descriptions of Chinese Dress," in La Chine entre amour et haine: Actes du Ville colloque de sinologie de Chantilly [Between sinophilia and sinophobia: Acts of the eighth sinological colloquium of Chantilly], ed. Michel Cartier (1995; rpt., Paris: Desclée de Brouwer and Ricci Institute for Chinese-Western Cultural History, University of San Francisco, 1998), 149-151
48. Ko has independently observed the same pattern of commentary; see Ko, "Bondage in Time," 10
49. Michel Foucault, The Order of Things: An Archaeology of the Human Sciences, a translation of Les mots et les choses (New York: Vintage, 1973), 17-25
50. Giles Lipovetsky, The Empire of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy, trans. Catherine Porter (Princeton, N.J.: Princeton University Press, 1994), 21
51. Père Nicolas Brouillon, Mémoire sur l'état actuel de la Mission du Kiangnan, 1842-1855 (Paris: Julien, Lanier, 1855), 239-240
52. Lipovetsky, Empire of Fashion, 55-57
53. Elizabeth Wilson, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity (London: Virago: 1985), 16
54. Daniel L. Purdy, The Tyranny of Elegance: Consumer Cosmopolitanism in the Era of Goethe (Baltimore, Md.: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1998)
55. Liah Greenfeld, Nationalism: Five Roads to Modernity (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1992)
56. Jessica Rawson and Jane Portal, "Luxuries for Trade," in The British Museum Book of Chinese Art, ed. Jessica Rawson (London: British Museum Press, 1992), 281-282
57. Pamela Crossley, The Translucent Mirror: History and Identity in Qing Imperial Ideology (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1999), 281
58. Hosea Ballou Morse, The Chronicles of the East India Company, Trading to China, 1635-1834 (Oxford: Clarendon, 1926), 5:32
59. William T. Rowe, Hankow: Commerce and Society in a Chinese City, 1796-1889 (Stanford, Calif.: Stanford University Press, 1984), 79
60. Li Dou, Yangzhou huafang lu, 45-46
61. Lin Sumen, Hanjiang sanbai yin [Three hundred sonnets from the Han River] (Yangzhou, 1808)
62. Xianshi gongsi 25 zhounian jinian ce [Sincere Company twenty-fifth anniversary commemorative volume] (Shanghai: Sincere Company, 1925), Shanghai Municipal Archives Q227-84, 302
63. Lin, Hanjiang sanbai yin, 6.5a
64. Shen Congwen, Zhongguo gudai fushi yanjiu
65. Michael Greenberg, British Trade and the Opening of China, 1800-1842 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1951), 3
66. William Alexander and George Henry Mason, Views of Eighteenth Century China: Costumes, History, Customs (London: Studio Editions, 1988), 196
67. Morse, Chronicles of the East India Company, 2:248
68. Carlo Maria, Clocks and Culture, 1300-1700 (London: Collins, 1967), 87-88
69. David Landes, Revolution in Time: Clocks and the Making of the Modern World (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1983), 43-45
70. Morse, Chronicles of the East India Company, 3:62
71. Catherine Jami, "Western Devices for Measuring Time and Space: Clocks and Euclidian Geometry in Late Ming and Ch'ing China," in Time and Space in Chinese Culture, ed. Chunchieh Huang and Erik Zürcher (Leiden: E. J. Brill, 1995), 191-192
72. Waley-Cohen, Sextants of Beijing, 132
73. Zhou Sheng [Jiaodong Zhou Sheng], Yangzhou meng [Dream of Yangzhou] (1856; rpt. Taipei: Shijie shuju, 1978): 44-46
74. David Der-wei Wang, Fin-de-Siècle Splendor: Repressed Modernities of Late Qing Fiction, 1849-1911 (Stanford, Calif.: Stanford University Press, 1997)
75. Paola Zamperini, "Clothes That Matter: Fashioning Modernity in Late Qing Novels," Fashion Theory 5, no. 2 (2001): 196-197
76. Hanshang Mengren, Fengyue meng [Dreams of wind and moon] (preface 1848) (Beijing: Beijing daxue chubanshe, 1988)
77. Patrick Hanan, "Fengyue Meng and the Courtesan Novel," Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies 58, no. 2 (December 1998): 345-372
78. On the circulation of Spanish dollars, see Yen-p'ing Hao, The Commercial Revolution: The Rise of Sino-Western Merchant Capitalism (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1986), 35-40
79. Hanan, "Fengyue Meng and the Courtesan Novel," 349
80. Alexander Des Forges, "From Source Texts to 'Reality Observed': The Creation of the Author in Nineteenth-Century Vernacular Fiction," Chinese Literature: Essays, Articles, Reviews 22 (2000): 67-84
81. Foucault, "What Is Enlightenment?" 39
82. Dolora A. Wojciehowski, Old Masters, New Subjects: Early Modern and Poststructuralist Theories of Will (Stanford, Calif.: Stanford University Press, 1995)
83. Li Ruzhen, Jing hua yuan [Destinies of the flowers in the mirror] (Taibei: Taiwan wenyuan shuju, 1980), 198
84. On Li Ruzhen's Yangzhou connections, see Ono Kazuko, "Kyõka en no ekai: Shinchõ kõshõgakusha no yutopia zõ" [The world of Destinies of the Flowers in the Mirror: Utopian images from a Qing dynasty evidential scholar], Shiso [Thought], no. 721 (1982): 41-43
85. Stephen J. Roddy, Literati Identity and Its Fictional Representations in Late Imperial China (Stanford, Calif.: Stanford University Press, 1998), 82
86. For a partial and rather loose translation of the novel, see Li Ju-chen, Flowers in the Mirror, trans. and ed. Lin Tai-yi (London: Peter Owen, 1965)
87. Des Forges, "From Source Texts to Reality Observed," 80
88. and Hsin-sheng C. Kao, Li Ju-chen (Boston: Twayne, 1981), 28-29
89. Roddy, Literati Identity, 82
90. Li Ruzhen, Jing huan yuan, 198
91. Cf. Li Ju-chen, Flowers in the Mirror, 107
92. Hay, Shitao, 22
93. Ruan Yuan was among the scholars who took an interest in this aspect of Western learning. See Louis Van Hée, "The Ch'ou-Jen Chuan of Yüan Yüan," trans. Frances Marguerite Clarke and Anna Elizabeth Houghtaling, Isis 8 (1926): 103-118
94. Hanshang Mengren, Fengyue meng, 25-27, 42, 119
95. Frederick P. Brandauer, "Women in the Ching-hua Yuan: Emancipation toward a Confucian Ideal," Journal of Asian Studies 4 (August 1977): 658-659
96. Hanshang Mengren, Fengyue meng, 30
97. Antonia Finnane, "What Should Chinese Women Wear? A National Problem," Modern China 22, no. 2 (April 1996): 99-131
98. See comments in Madame Wellington Koo, No Feast Lasts Forever (New York: Quadrangle, 1975), 181-182