Analysis of the spatio-temporal behaviour of beach morphology at Duck using fractal methods

Marine Geology

Volumn 252, Issue 1-2, 2008, Pages 38-49

  Gunawardena, Y ^a   Ilic, S ^a   Southgate, H N ^b   Pinkerton, H ^a  

^a LANCASTER UNIVERSITY   (United Kingdom)

^b DELFT UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY   (Netherlands)

Author keywords

alongshore; beach; cross shore; Duck; elevations; fractals

Indexed keywords

ALONGSHORE DIFFERENCES; BEACH ELEVATION TIME SERIES; CROSS-SHORE; FRACTAL METHODS;

COASTAL ZONES; FRACTALS; NUMERICAL METHODS; TIME SERIES ANALYSIS; WATER WAVES;

BEACHES;

BEACH MORPHOLOGY; COASTAL EVOLUTION; DATA SET; FRACTAL ANALYSIS; SPATIOTEMPORAL ANALYSIS; WAVE FORCE;

DUCK; NORTH AMERICA; NORTH CAROLINA; UNITED STATES;

EID: 44649147177     PISSN: 00253227     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2008.03.013     Document Type: Article

References (44)

1. Aubrey D.G. Seasonal patterns of onshore/offshore sediment movement. J. Geophys. Res. 84 (1979) 6347-6354
2. Aubrey D.G. Beach changes on coasts with different wave climates. Sandy Beaches as Ecosystems (1983), Dr. W. Junk Publishers, The Hague 63-86
3. Baas A.C.W. Chaos, fractals and self-organisation in coastal geomorphology: simulating dune landscapes in vegetated environments. Geomorphology 48 (2002) 309-328
4. Bak P., and Tang C. Earthquakes as a self-organised critical phenomenon. J. Geophys. Res. 95 (1989) 15635-15637
5. Bak P., Tang C., and Weisnefeld K. Self-organised criticality: an explanation of 1/f noise. Phys. Rev. Lett. 59 (1987) 381-385
6. Barton C., Dismukes J.S., and Morton R.A. Complexity analysis of the change in shoreline position at Duck, NC. Proceedings of Coastal Sediments '03 (published on DVD ROM) (2003), ASCE, New York
7. Birkemeier W.A. Time scale of nearshore profile change. Proceedings of Coastal Engineering '85 (1985), ASCE, New York 1507-1521
8. Birkemeier W.A., Nicholls R.J., and Lee G.H. Storms, storms groups and nearshore morphologic change. Proceedings of Coastal Sediments '99 (1999), ASCE, New York 1109-1122
9. Calvete D., Falques A., de Stewart H.E., and Dodd N. Non-linear modelling of shoreface-connected ridges. Proceedings of Coastal Sediments '99 (1999), ASCE, New York
10. Chatfield C. The analysis of time series. An Introduction (1996), Chapman and Hall, London
11. De Vriend H.J. On the predictability of coastal morphology. Proceedings of European Marine Science and Technology '98 (1998), European Commission, Lisbon 289-300
12. FRF (Field Research Facility) (2003). http://www.frf.usace.army.mil/frfdata/html
13. Gunawardena, Y., 2008. Data-based analysis and modelling of the beach morphology at Duck, North Carolina, USA. Lancaster University, PhD Thesis.
14. Hastings H.M., and Sugihara G. Fractals: a User's Guide for the Natural Sciences (1993), Oxford Univ. Press, New York 235
15. Howd P.A., Birkemeier W.A., and Stockdon H. Interannual changes in bed elevation: outer surf zone, Duck, NC 1981-1991. In: List J.H. (Ed). Large Scale Coastal Behaviour. Open-File Rep. 93-381, U.S.G.S. St. Petersburg, FL (1993) 74-78
16. Hu K., Ivanov P.C., Chen Z., Carpena P., and Stanley E. Effect of trends on detrended fluctuation analysis. Phys. Rev., E 64 (2005) 011114
17. Hulscher S.J.M.H., de Swart H.E., and de Vriend H.J. The generation of offshore tidal sand banks and sand waves. Cont. Shelf Res. 13 11 (1993) 1183-1204
18. Hurst H.E. Methods of using long-term storage in reservoirs. Proc. Inst. Civ. Eng. 5 1 (1956) 519-577
19. Ito K., and Matsuzaki M. Earthquakes as self-organised critical phenomenon. J. Geophys. Res. 95 (1990) 6853-6860
20. Jensen H.K. Self-organised Criticality: Emergent Complex Behaviour in Physical and Biological Systems (1998), Cambridge Univ. Press, New York
21. Keen T.R., Beavers R.L., Howd P.A., and Hathaway K. Shoreface sedimentation during a northeaster at Duck, North Carolina, USA. J. Coast. Res. 19 1 (2003) 24-40
22. Larson M., and Kraus N.C. Dynamics of longshore bars. Proceedings of Coastal Engineering '92 (1992), ASCE, New York 2219-2232
23. Larson M., and Kraus N.C. Temporal and spatial scales of beach profile change, Duck, North Carolina. Mar. Geol. 177 (1994) 75-94
24. Larson M., Capobianco M., and Hanson H. Relationship between beach profiles and waves at Duck, North Carolina, determined by canonical correlation analysis. Mar. Geol. 163 (2000) 275-288
25. Lee G., Nicholls R., Birkemeier W.A., and Leatherman S. A conceptual fair-weather-storm model of beach nearshore profile evolution at Duck, North Carolina, USA. J. Coast. Res. 11 4 (1995) 1157-1166
26. Lee G., Nicholls R., and Birkemeier W.A. Storm-driven variability of the beach-nearshore profile at Duck North Carolina, USA, 1981-1991. Mar. Geol. 148 (1998) 163-177
27. Li Y., Lark M., and Reeve D. Multi-scale variability of beach profiles at Duck: a wavelet analysis. Coast. Eng. 52 (2005) 1133-1153
28. Lippmann T.C., and Holman R.A. The spatial and temporal variability of sand bar morphology. J. Coast. Res. 95 C7 (1990) 11575-11590
29. Lippmann T.C., Holman R.A., and Hathaway K.K. Episodic, nonstationary behaviour of a double bar system at Duck, North Carolina, U.S.A., 1986-1991. J. Coast. Res. 15 (1993) 49-67 (Special Issue)
30. Mandelbrot B.B., and Wallis J.R. Some long-run properties of geophysical records. Water Resour. Res. 5 (1969) 321-340
31. Markovic D., and Koch M. Wavelet and scaling analysis of monthly precipitation extremes in Germany in the 20th century: interannual to interdecadal oscillations and the North Atlantic Oscillation influence. Water Resour. Res. 41 (2005) W09420 10.1029/2004WR003843
32. Markovic D., and Koch M. Sensitivity of Hurst parameter estimation to periodic signals in time series and filtering approaches. Geophys. Res. Lett. 32 (2005) L17401 10.1029/2005GL024069, 2005
33. Miller H.C., Birkemeier W.A., and De Wall A.E. Effects of CERC research pier on nearshore processes. Proceedings of Coastal Structures '83 (1983), ASCE, New York 769-784
34. North C.P., and Halliwell D.I. Bias in estimating fractal dimension with the rescaled-range (R/S) technique. Math. Geol. 26 5 (1994) 531-555
35. O'Brien K.P., and Weissman M.B. Statistical signatures of self-organisation. Phys. Rev., A. 46 8 (1992) R4475-R4478
36. Plant N.G., Holman R.A., and Freilich M.H. A simple model for the interannual sandbar behaviour. J. Geophys. Res. 104 C7 (1999) 15755-15776
37. Różyński G. Long-term shoreline response of a nontidal, barred coast. Coast. Eng. 52 (2005) 79-91
38. Różyński G., Larson M., and Pruszak Z. Forced and self-organised shoreline response for a beach in the southern Baltic Sea determined through singular spectrum analysis. Coast. Eng. 43 (2001) 41-58
39. Southgate H.N., and Moller I. Fractal properties of coastal profile evolution at Duck, North Carolina. J. Geophys. Res. 105 C5 (2000) 11489-11507
40. Turcotte D.L. Fractals and Chaos in Geology and Geophysics (1992), Cambridge Univ. Press, New York
41. Werner B.T., and Fink T.M. Beach cusps as self-organised patterns. Science 260 (1993) 968-970
42. Winant C.D., Inman D.L., and Nordstrom C.E. Description of seasonal beach changes using empirical eigen functions. J. Geophys. Res. 80 15 (1975) 1979-1986
43. Young P.C. Component (structural) models of time series. In: Young P.C. (Ed). Concise Encyclopaedia of Environmental Systems (1993), Pergamon Press, Oxford 111-113
44. Young P.C., Pedregal D.J., and Tych W. Dynamic harmonic regression. J. Forecast. 18 (1999) 369-394