Combined retinol-lactose-glycolic acid effects on photoaged skin: A double-blind placebo-controlled study

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Volumn 30, Issue 3, 2008, Pages 175-182

  Bertin, C ^a   Zunino, H ^a   Lanctin, M ^a   Stamatas, G N ^a   Camel, E ^b   Robert, C ^c   Issachar, N ^a  

^a JOHNSON AND JOHNSON   (United States)

^b IEC   (France)

^c INSTITUT GUSTAVE ROUSSY   (France)

Author keywords

Glycolic acid; Lactose; Photoageing; Retinol; Skin ageing

Indexed keywords

GLYCOLIC ACID; LACTOSE; PLACEBO; RETINOL;

ADULT; APPLICATION SITE DISCOMFORT; APPLICATION SITE ERYTHEMA; APPLICATION SITE IRRITATION; ARTICLE; CLINICAL ARTICLE; CLINICAL TRIAL; CONTROLLED CLINICAL TRIAL; CONTROLLED STUDY; CREAM; DOUBLE BLIND PROCEDURE; DRUG EFFICACY; FEMALE; HUMAN; MOISTURE; PHOTOAGING; RANDOMIZED CONTROLLED TRIAL; SKIN PROTECTION; VISCOELASTICITY; WRINKLE;

ADMINISTRATION, CUTANEOUS; ADULT; BIOPSY; DOUBLE-BLIND METHOD; FEMALE; GALVANIC SKIN RESPONSE; GLYCOLATES; HUMANS; LACTOSE; MIDDLE AGED; SKIN AGING; SUNLIGHT; VITAMIN A;

EID: 43049135504     PISSN: 01425463     EISSN: 14682494     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00441.x     Document Type: Article

References (38)

1. Fisher, G.J., Kang, S., Varani, J., Bata-Csorgo, Z., Wan, Y., Datta, S. Voorhees, J.J. Mechanisms of photoaging and chronological skin aging. Arch. Dermatol. 138, 1462 1470 (2002).
2. El-Domyati, M., Attia, S., Saleh, F. et al. Intrinsic aging vs. photoaging: a comparative histopathological, immunohistochemical, and ultrastructural study of skin. Exp. Dermatol. 11, 398 405 (2002).
3. Barbanel, J.C., Makki, S. Agache, P. The variability of skin surface contours. Ann. Biomed. Eng. 8, 175 182 (1980).
4. Lanir, Y., Manny, V., Zlotogorski, A., Shafran, A. Dikstein, S. Influence of aging on the In vivo mechanics of the skin. Skin Pharmacol. 6, 223 230 (1993).
5. Mauduit, G. Kalis, B. Le viellissement cutané. Nouv. Dermatol. 6, 232 (1987).
6. Takema, Y., Yorimoto, Y., Kawai, M. Mokawa, G. Age-related changes in the elastic properties and thickness of human facial skin. Br. J. Dermatol. 131, 641 648 (1994).
7. Grove, G.L., Grove, M.J. Leyden, J.J. Optical profilometry: an objective method for quantification of facial wrinkles. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 31, 631 637 (1989).
8. Voros, E., Robert, C. Robert, A.M. Age-related changes of the human skin surface microrelief. Gerontology 36, 276 285 (1990).
9. Corcuff, P., Leveque, J.L., Grove, G.L. Kligman, A.M. The impact of aging on the microrelief of pero-orbital and leg skin. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 82, 145 152 (1987).
10. Pierard, G.E., Franchimont, C. Lapierre, C.M. Le viellissement, son expression au niveau de la microanatomie et des propriétés physiques de la peau. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2, 209 214 (1980).
11. Kligman, A.M., Fulton, J.E Plewig, G. Topical vitamin A acid in acne vulgaris. Arch. Dermatol. 99, 469 476 (1969).
12. Griffiths, C.E.M. The role of retinoids in the prevention and repair of aged and photoaged skin. Clin. Exp. Dermatol. 26, 613 618 (2001).
13. Kang, S., Duell, E.A., Fischer, G.J. et al. Application of retinol to human skin In vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoid acid but without measureable retinoic acid levels or irritation. J. Invest. Dermatol. 105, 549 556 (1995).
14. Eichner, R., Gendimenico, G.J., Kahn, M. et al. Effects of long-term retinoic acid treatment on epidermal differentiation In vivo: specific modifications in the programme of terminal differentiation. Br. J. Dermatol. 135, 687 695 (1996).
15. Gilchrest, B.A. Treatment of photodamage with topical tretinoin: an overview. J. Am. Dermatol. 36, S27 36 (1997).
16. Schwartz, E., Crueshank, F.A., Mezik, J.A. Kligman, A.M. Topical all-trans retinoic acid stimulates collagen synthesis In vivo. J. Invest. Dermatol. 96, 975 978 (1991).
17. Griffiths, C.E., Kang, S., Ellis, C.N. et al. Two concentrations of topical tretinoin (retinoic acid) cause similar improvement of photoaging but different degrees of irritation. A double-blind, vehicule-controlled comparison of 0.1% and 0.025% tretinoin creams. Arch. Dermatol. 131, 1037 1044 (1995).
18. Varani, J., Warner, R.L., Gharaee-Kermani, M. et al. Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. J. Invest. Dermatol. 114, 480 486 (2000).
19. Van Scott, E.J. Yu, R.J. Control of keratinization with a-hydroxyacids and related compounds. Arch. Dermatol. 110, 586 590 (1974).
20. Van Scott, E.J. Yu, R.J. Alpha hydroxy acids: procedures for use in clinical practice. Cutis 43, 222 228 (1989).
21. Smith, W.P. Hydroxyacids and skin aging. Cosm. Toil. 109, 41 48 (1994).
22. Stiller, M.J. Topical 8 p. 100 glycolic acid and 8 p. 100 L-lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin. Arch. Dermatol. 132, 631 636 (1996).
23. Moczar, E., Robert, L. Robert, A. Use of Oligosaccharides in the Prevention and Treatment of the Aging of Tissues. ROC, S.A. (Colombes, FR),US Patent no. 5910490 (1999), http://www.freepatentsonline.com/5910490.html.
24. Brody, H., Coleman, W.P., Picquadio, D. et al. Round table discussion of alpha hydroxyacids. Dermatol. Surg. 22, 475 477 (1996).
25. Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos, P.M., Ricci, G., Semprini, M. Lopes, R.A. Histopathological, morphometric, and stereologic studies of dermocosmetic skin formulations containing vitamin A and/or glycolic acid. J. Cosmet. Sci. 50, 159 170 (1999).
26. Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T.D., Murphy, G.F., Sueki, H., Telegan, B., Johnson, W., Yu, R.J. Van Scott, E.J. Effects of α-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 34, 187 195 (1996).
27. Berardesca, E. Maibach, H. AHA mechanisms of action. Cosm. Toil. 110, 30 31 (1995).
28. Lavker, R.M., Kaidbey, K. Leyden, J.J. Effects of topical ammonium lactate on cutaneous atrophy from a potent topical corticosteroid. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 26, 535 544 (1992).
29. Stiller, M., Bartolome, J., Stern, R., Smith, S., Kollias, N., Gillies, R. Drake, L. Topical 8% glycolic acid and 8% L-lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin. Arch. Dermatol. 132, 631 636 (1996).
30. Morganti, P., Randazzo, S.D. Bruno, C. Alpha hydroxy acids in the cosmetic treatment of photo-induced skin aging. J. Appl. Cosmetol. 14, 1 8 (1996).
31. Friteau, L., Castelli, D., Gubanski, G., Serrano, J. Ries, G. Evaluation in the anti-aging activities of melibiose by using in vitro models. Skin Pharmacol. 9, 150 (1996).
32. Piérard-Franchimont, C., Castelli, D., Van Cromphaut, I. et al. Tensile properties and contours of aging facial skin. A controlled double-blind comparative study of the effects of retinol, melibiose-lactose and their association. Skin Res. Technol. 4, 237 243 (1995).
33. Creidi, P., Vienne, M.P., Ochonisky, S., Lauze, C., Turlier, V., Lagarde, J.M. Dupuy, P. Profilometric evaluation of photodamage after topical retinaldehyde and retinoic acid treatment. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 39, 960 964 (1998).
34. Kim, H.J., Bogdan, N.J., d'Agostaro, L.J., Gold, L.I. Bryce, G.F. Effect of topical retinoic acids on the levels of collagen mRNA during the repair of UVB-induced dermal damage in the hairless mouse and the possible role of TGF-β as a mediator. J. Invest. Dermatol. 98, 359 363 (1992).
35. Fisher, G.J., Datta, S.C., Talwar, H.S. et al. Molecular basis of sun-induced premature skin ageing and retinoid antagonism. Nature 379, 335 339 (1996).
36. Fisher, G.J., Wang, Z.Q., Datta, S.C., Varani, J., Kang, S. Voorhees, J.J. Pathophysiology of premature skin aging induced by ultraviolet light. N. Engl. J. Med. 337, 1419 1428 (1997).
37. Fisher, G.J. Voorhees, J.J. Molecular mechanisms of photoaging and its prevention by retinoic acid: Ultraviolet irradiation induces MAP kinase signal transduction cascades that induce AP-1-regulated matrix metalloproteinases that degrade human skin In vivo. J. Invest. Dermatol. 3, 61 68 (1998).
38. Griffiths, C.E.M. Voorhees, J.J. Topical retinoic acid for photoaging: Clinical response and underlying mechanisms. Skin Pharmacol. 6 (Suppl. 1 70 77 (1993).