Field observations of irregular wave transformation in the surf zone

Coastal Dynamics 2001

Volumn , Issue , 2001, Pages 62-71

  Sénéchal, Nadia ^a   Bonneton, Philippe ^a   Dupuis, Hélène ^a  

^a UNIVERSITÉ BORDEAUX 1   (France)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

BARRED BEACH; FIELD OBSERVATIONS; FINE GRAINED; HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION; IRREGULAR WAVES; MEDIUM WAVE; RANDOM WAVES; WAVE TRANSFORMATIONS;

WAVE TRANSMISSION;

EID: 42549113821     PISSN: None     EISSN: None     Source Type: Conference Proceeding    
DOI: 10.1061/40566(260)7     Document Type: Conference Paper

References (11)

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5. Forristall, G.Z. 1978. On the statistical distribution of wave heights in a storm. Journal of Geophysical research, 83,2353-2358.
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7. Lin, P. and Liu, P.L.-F. 1998. A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone. Journal of Fluid Mechanic, 359,239-264.
8. Sénéchal, N., Dupuis, H., Bonneton, P., Howa, H., and Pedreros, R. 2000. Irregular wave transformation in the surf zone over a gently sloping sandy beach. submitted to Journal of Coastal Research.
9. Stive, M.J.F. 1984. Energy dissipation in waves breaking on gentle slopes. Coastal Engineering, 8,99-127.
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11. Thornton, E.B. and Guza, R.T. 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. Journal of Geophysical Research, 88 (C10), 5925-5938.