"From wharfie haunt to foodie haven": Modernity and law in the transformation of the Australian working-class pub

Food, Culture and Society

Volumn 11, Issue 1, 2008, Pages 29-48

  Kirkby, Diane ^a  

^a LA TROBE UNIVERSITY   (Australia)

Author keywords

Aurtralian food; Dining out; Liqour licensing; Pub meals; Restaurants

Indexed keywords

EID: 40249119923     PISSN: 15528014     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.2752/155280108X276032     Document Type: Article

References (81)

1. Jane Faulkner, "From Wharfie Haunt to Foodie Haven," Age (Melbourne) (July 24, 2003): 8.
2. Hotel and Catering, "Mildura has a Grand Hotel after 88 Years," Hotel and Catering 2 (March 1976): 29-31.
3. Michael Thomas, "The Decline and Fall of Ocker Chic," Australian Playboy (April 1987): 50.
4. This is repeated as a truism in virtually every popular history, no doubt based on articles like those written by Keith Dunstan, "Carlton is Little Italy," Bulletin (May 3, 1969)
5. and Phillip Adams "Clearly Migration Has Been Good for Australia," The Age (Melbourne) (July 12, 1980).
6. This is an argument favored in Michael Symons, One Continuous Picnic: A History of Eating in Australia (Adelaide: Duck Press, 1982).
7. John Burnett, England Eats Out: A Social History of Eating Out in England From 1830 to the Present (Harlow: Pearson Longman, 2004), p. 273.
8. Laura Frader. From Bouillon to Boeuf a la Mode: Politics and Gastronomy in Modern France (H-Urban, 2001), available from: http://www.h-net.org/ reviews/showrev.cgi?path=269911011630193 (accessed October 22, 2007). (Review of Rebecca Spang, The Invention of the Restaurant: Paris and Modern Gastronomic Culture, Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2000).
9. J.M. Freeland, The Australian Pub (Melbourne: Melbourne University Press, 1966), p. 54.
10. For a description of the experience see Hal Porter, Bairnsdale: Portrait of a Country Town (Sydney: Ferguson, 1977), p. 11.
11. J.A. Nancarow, "The Dining Room and its Improvement," Vigilante 1:1 (February 13, 1947): 6.
12. Sun (Melbourne), "Our Hotel Meals Well Served But the Cooking..." Sun (Melbourne) (August 4, 1953): 3.
13. Anthony Trollope, Australia and New Zealand (London: Chapman & Hall, 1873), quoted in Freeland, Australian Pub, pp. 129-30.
14. Library Association of Australia, Where to Eat in Melbourne, LAA Conference, Melbourne, 1961, lists those in Melbourne.
15. Christopher Spicer, Duchess: Story of the Windsor Hotel (Main Ridge, Loch Haven, 1993), p. 104.
16. Spicer, Duchess, p. 111.
17. Pierre Bourdieu, "Preface to the English Language Edition," Distinction: A Social Critique of 'the Judgment of Taste, trans. Richard Nice (Cambridge, MA, Harvard University Press, 1984), p. xi.
18. Marie-France Boyer, The French Café (London: Thames and Hudson, 1994), p. 21;
19. W. Scott Haine, The World of the Paris Café: Sociability Among the French Working Class 1789-1914 (Baltimore, MD: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1996).
20. Hal Porter, The Watcher on the Cast-Iron Balcony (London: Faber, 1963), pp. 216-8.
21. Glenys Foster, A Latin Life: 100 Years of Hospitality (Melbourne, self-published, 1998);
22. see also Derry Hogue, "Dining at the Legendary Latin," Catering (June 1972): 30.
23. Graeme Davison, "The European City in Australia," Journal of Urban History 27:6 (2001): 779-94 (at 783).
24. Diane Kirkby, "'Beer Women and Grub': Pubs, Food and the Industrial Working Class," in Diane Kirkby and Tanja Luckins (eds.) Dining on Turtles: Food, Feasts and Drinking in History (Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan, 2007), pp. 137-54.
25. Herald (Melbourne) "Counter Lunches General," Herald (Melbourne) (April 26, 1952): 5;
26. see also advertisements in Vigilante, the publication of the United Licensed Victuallers Association.
27. Joanne Finkelstein, Dining Out: A Sociology of Modern Manners (Cambridge & Oxford: Polity Press, 1989), p. 27.
28. Spang, The Invention of the Restaurant.
29. Finkelstein, Dining Out, pp. 26-7.
30. Spang, Invention of the Restaurant.
31. Mary Lord, Hal Porter: Man of Many Parts (Sydney: Random House, 1993), pp. 171-85.
32. Davison, "European City in Australia," p. 782.
33. Bourdieu goes on to say that "The denial of lower, coarse, vulgar, venal servile - in a word, natural - enjoyment, which constitutes the sacred sphere of culture, implies an affirmation of the superiority of those who can be satisfied with the sublimated, refined... distinguished pleasures for ever closed to the profane," Distinction pp. 1, 6-7.
34. Quoted in Davison, "European City in Australia," p. 783.
35. Hal Porter, "Festival," The Bulletin, 28 August 1965.
36. Davison, The European City in Australia, p. 790.
37. Finkelstein, Dining Out, p. 23.
38. Finkelstein, Dining Out, p. 23.
39. Reported in Finkelstein, Dining Out, p. 24.
40. Sandro Mangosi, Eating Out in Australia 2000-2002 (Sydney: BIS Shrapnel, 2002), cited in Stephen Downes, Advanced Australia Fare: Haw Australian Cooking Became the World's Best (Sydney: Allen & Unwin, 2002), p. 346.
41. Janis Wilton and Richard Bosworth, Old Worlds New Australia (Ringwood, Victoria: Penguin, 1984), p. 150
42. (quoted in Davison, "European City in Australia," p. 789).
43. Leonard Janiszewski and Effy Alexakis, "California Dreaming: The "Greek Café" and its Role in the Americanisation of Australian Eating and Social Habits," (personal communication);
44. Leonard Janiszewski and Effy Alexis, "American Beauties at the Niagara," paper presented to the National Trust of Australia, Out There? Conference, Sydney, March 10, 2003.
45. Catering, "American Restaurateur Drops in on Melbourne," Catering 19:233 (December 1961): 52;
46. Catering, "The Training of Chefs in the United States of America," Catering 20:241 (August, 1962): 46;
47. Catering, "Good Restaurant Design Can Improve the Menu," reprinted from American Restaurant Magazine in Catering 18:218 (September 1960) 34-6;
48. Oliver Shaul, "When Prestige Means Profit: Good Management in the Catering Industry," Catering 30:361 (August, 1972): 23-5.
49. The phrase "American aesthetic of efficiency" comes from Annabel Jane Wharton, Building the Cold War: Hilton International Hotels and Modern Architecture (Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press, 2001), p. 6.
50. Catering, "The South Seas Restaurant," Catering 19:230 (September 1961): 18-20;
51. Catering, "New Restaurant with a Difference," Catering 20:236 (March 1962): 18-22;
52. Catering, "New Licensed Restaurant at Croydon," Catering 20:237 (April 1962): 8.
53. Catering, "The South Seas Restaurant;"
54. Catering, "New Restaurant with a Difference;"
55. Catering, "New Licensed Restaurant at Croydon."
56. Wharton, Building the Cold War, pp. 2, 9, 198.
57. Wharton, Building the Cold War, pp. 27, 198.
58. Bourdieu, Distinction, p. xiii.
59. Thomas Bender (ed.), Rethinking American History in a Global Age (Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 2002).
60. Davison, "European City in Australia," p. 789.
61. Hogue, "Dining at the Legendary Latin".
62. Spang, Invention of the Restaurant, p. 86.
63. Quoted in Will Davies and Andrea Dal Bosco, Tales From a Suitcase (Melbourne: Lothian, 2001), p. 157.
64. H.A. Monckton, A History of the English Public House (London: Bodley Head, 1969), p. 108.
65. Catering, "Licensing Court Report," Catering 18:218 (September 1960): 49;
66. Catering, "Licensing Court Report," Catering 18:219 (October 1960): 42.
67. Victoria Parliament, Report of the Board of Inquiry into the Operation of the Liquor Control Act 1968, by J.D. Davies, Vol. 1, Part 1, p. 71 (hereafter Davies Report).
68. Stephen Downes, Advanced Australian Fare: How Australian Cooking Became the World's Best (Sydney, Allen & Unwin, 2002), pp. 1-12;
69. Harry Gordon, Australia and the Olympic Games (St. Lucia: University of Queensland Press, 1994).
70. Report of the State Development Committee on Tourist Facilities: Tourist Authority and Accommodation, Victorian Parliamentary Papers, Vol. II, 1951-52.
71. Neil McPhee, "Behind the Wheel: Motels," Royal Auto (May 1958): 5.
72. Davies Report, pp. 56-63.
73. For a description of the new Parkroyal Motel's kitchen and restaurant, see Catering, "Motel Parkroyal," Catering 19:233 (December 1961): 50.
74. Freeland, Australian Pub, p. 188.
75. The Imperial Hotel, at the corner of Spring and Bourke Streets, opposite Parliament House, for example, was completely renovated and modernized by the Molina brothers, "famed in Melbourne for the preparation of food." See What's Brewing, "Our Hotels," What's Brewing (June 1953): 24-5.
76. Vigilante, "Keeping Pace With the Customers," Vigilante 28:2 (January 10, 1974): 8.
77. Jean Bruce, "New Faces at the Chevron: It's a Beautiful Hotel," Australian Women's Weekly (September 21, 1966): 29.
78. Davies Report, p. 71.
79. Menu from the American Roadhouse, Croydon (a suburb of Melbourne) c. 1960s, courtesy of Graeme Davison, Monash University.
80. Faulkner, "From Wharfie Haunt", p. 8.
81. Freeland, Australian Pub, p. 43.