Field verification of a computational fluid dynamics model for wave transformation and breaking in the surf zone

Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering

Volumn 134, Issue 2, 2008, Pages 71-80

  Chopakatla, Sreenivasa C ^a   Lippmann, Thomas C ^b   Richardson, John E ^c  

^a PACIFIC NORTHWEST NATIONAL LABORATORY   (United States)

^b OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY   (United States)

^c Blue Hill Hydraulics Inc   (United States)

Author keywords

Breaking waves; Coastal processes; Computational fluid dynamics technique; Fluid dynamics; Nearshore; Surf zone; Surface waves; Turbulence

Indexed keywords

BEACHES; FLOW OF WATER; MATHEMATICAL MODELS; TURBULENCE; WATER WAVES;

SURF ZONE; WAVE BREAKING; WAVE HEIGHT; WAVE TRANSFORMATION;

COMPUTATIONAL FLUID DYNAMICS;

BEACHES; COMPUTATIONAL FLUID DYNAMICS; FLOW OF WATER; MATHEMATICAL MODELS; TURBULENCE; WATER WAVES;

BEACH PROFILE; COMPUTATIONAL FLUID DYNAMICS; FLOW MODELING; NEARSHORE DYNAMICS; PARAMETERIZATION; SHORELINE; SPATIAL DISTRIBUTION; SURF ZONE; TWO-DIMENSIONAL FLOW; WATER DEPTH; WAVE BREAKING; WAVE HEIGHT; WAVE SPECTRUM;

EID: 39549095613     PISSN: 0733950X     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2008)134:2(71)     Document Type: Article

References (28)

1. ReferencesBattjes, J. A., and Jannsen, J. P. F. M. (1978). "Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves." Proc., 16th Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 569-587.
2. Birkemeier, W. A. (1991). "Delilah near processes experiment: Data summary." Miscellaneous Rep., Coastal Engineering Research Center, Field Research Facility, U.S. Army Eng. Waterw. Exp. Sta., Vicksburg, Miss.
3. Bradford, S. F. (2000). "Numerical simulation of surf zone dynamics." J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng. JWPED50733-950X10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2000)126:1(1), 126(1), 1-13.
4. Chen, Y., Guza, R. T., and Elgar, S. (1997). "Modeling spectra of breaking surface waves in shallow water." J. Geophys. Res. JGREA20148-022710.1029/97JC01565, 102, 25035-25046.
5. Chopakatla, S. C. (2003). "A CFD model for wave transformation and breaking in the surf zone." MS thesis, The Ohio State Univ., Columbus, Ohio.
6. Church, J. C., and Thornton, E. B. (1993). "Effects of breaking wave induced turbulence within a longshore current model." Coastal Eng. COENDE0378-3839, 20, 1-28.
7. Deigaard, R. (1989). "Mathematical modeling of waves in the surf zone." Progress Rep. No. 69, ISVA Technical Univ. of Denmark, Lyngby, Denmark, 47-59.
8. Flow Science Inc. (2002). FLOW-3D user's manual, Los Alamos, N.M.
9. Garcez Faria, A. F., Thornton, E. B., Lippmann, T. C., and Stanton, T. P. (2000). "Undertow over a barred beach." J. Geophys. Res. JGREA20148-0227, 105(C7), 16999-17010.
10. George, R., Flick, R. E., and Guza, R. T. (1994). "Observations of turbulence in the surf zone." J. Geophys. Res. JGREA20148-022710.1029/93JC02717, 99, 801-810.
11. Guza, R. T., and Thornton, E. B. (1980). "Local and shoaled comparisons of sea surface elevations, pressure and velocities." J. Geophys. Res. JGREA20148-0227, 85, 1524-1530.
12. Haines, J. W., and Sallenger, A. H. (1994). "Vertical structure of mean cross-shore currents across a barred surf zone." J. Geophys. Res.JGREA20148-0227, 99(C7), 14223-14242.
13. Harlow, F. H., and Welch, J. E. (1965). "Numerical calculation of time-dependent viscous incompressible flow of fluid with free surface." Phys. Fluids PFLDAS0031-917110.1063/1.1761178, 8, 2182-2189.
14. Hirt, C. W., and Nichols, B. D. (1981). "Volume of fluid (VOF) method for the dynamics of free boundaries." J. Comput. Phys. JCTPAH0021-999110.1016/0021-9991(81)90145-5, 39, 201-225.
15. Kaihatu, J. M., and Kirby, J. T. (1995). "Nonlinear transformation of waves in finite water depth." Phys. Fluids PHFLE61070-663110.1063/1.868504, 7(8), 1903-1914.
16. Kennedy, A. B., Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., and Dalrymple, R. A. (2000). "Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking and runup. I: 1D." J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng.JWPED50733-950X10.1061/ (ASCE)0733-950X(2000)126:1(39), 126(1), 39-47.
17. Lin, P., and Liu, P. L. F. (1998). "A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone." J. Fluid Mech. JFLSA70022-112010.1017/ S002211209700846X, 359, 239-264.
18. Lippmann, T. C., Brookins, A. H., and Thornton, E. B. (1996a). "Wave energy transformation on natural profiles." Coastal Eng. COENDE0378-3839, 27, 1-20.
19. Lippmann, T. C., Herbers, T. H. C., and Thornton, E. B. (1999). "Gravity and shear wave contributions to nearshore infragravity motions." J. Phys. Oceanogr. JPYOBT1520-0485, 29, 231-239.
20. Lippmann, T. C., and Holman, R. A. (1991). "Phase speed and angle of breaking waves measured with video techniques." Proc., Conf. Coastal Sediments '91, ASCE, New York, 542-556.
21. Lippmann, T. C., Thornton, E. B., and Reniers, A. J. H. (1996b). "Wave stress and longshore current on barred profiles." Proc., Conf. Coastal Dynamics '95, ASCE, Reston, Va., 401-412.
22. Schaffer, H. A., Madsen, P. A., and Deigaard, R. (1993). "A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water." Coastal Eng.COENDE0378-383910.1016/0378-3839(93)90001-O, 20, 185-202.
23. Thornton, E. B., and Guza, R. T. (1983). "Transformation of wave height distribution." J. Geophys. Res. JGREA20148-0227, 88, 5925-5938.
24. Thornton, E. B., and Kim, C. S. (1993). "Longshore current and wave height modulation at tidal frequency inside the surf zone." J. Geophys. Res. JGREA20148-0227, 98(C9), 16509-16519.
25. Ting, F. C. K., and Kirby, J. T. (1995). "Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a strong plunging breaker." Coastal Eng. COENDE0378-383910.1016/0378-3839(94)00036-W, 24, 177-204.
26. Ting, F. C. K., and Kirby, J. T. (1996). "Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a spilling breaker." Coastal Eng. COENDE0378-383910.1016/0378-3839(95)00037-2, 27, 131-160.
27. Troch, P., and De Rouch, J. (1999). "An active wave generating-absorbing boundary condition for VOF type numerical model." Coastal Eng. COENDE0378-3839, 38, 223-247.
28. Yakhot, V., Orszag, S. A., Thangam, S., Gatski, T. B., and Speziale, C. G. (1992). "Development of turbulence models for shear flows by a double expansion technique." Phys. of Fluids, 4, 1510-1520.