메뉴 건너뛰기




Volumn 48, Issue 4, 2006, Pages 395-416

Breaking wave formulas for breaking depth and orbital to phase velocity ratio

Author keywords

Breaker depth; Breaking point; Incipient wave breaking; Orbital to phase velocity ratio

Indexed keywords

COASTAL ENGINEERING; COMPUTATIONAL METHODS; DATA ACQUISITION; DEPTH PERCEPTION; FUNCTION EVALUATION;

EID: 33750455827     PISSN: 21664250     EISSN: 17936292     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1142/S0578563406001489     Document Type: Article
Times cited : (20)

References (48)
  • 3
    • 0000502986 scopus 로고
    • Stream function representation of nonlinear ocean waves
    • Dean, R. G. [1965] "Stream function representation of nonlinear ocean waves," J. Geophysical Research 70, 4561-4572.
    • (1965) J. Geophysical Research , vol.70 , pp. 4561-4572
    • Dean, R.G.1
  • 5
    • 0001453962 scopus 로고
    • Breaker travel and choice of design wave height
    • Galvin, C. J. [1969] "Breaker travel and choice of design wave height," J. Waterways and Harbors Division, ASCE 95, 175-200.
    • (1969) J. Waterways and Harbors Division, ASCE , vol.95 , pp. 175-200
    • Galvin, C.J.1
  • 8
    • 0003771502 scopus 로고
    • PhD Thesis, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland
    • Gourlay, M. R. [1978] Wave Generated Currents, PhD Thesis, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland.
    • (1978) Wave Generated Currents
    • Gourlay, M.R.1
  • 9
    • 0027009570 scopus 로고
    • Wave set-up, wave run-up and beach water table: Interaction between surf zone hydraulics and groundwater hydraulics
    • Gourlay, M. R. [1992] "Wave set-up, wave run-up and beach water table: Interaction between surf zone hydraulics and groundwater hydraulics," Coastal Engineering 17, 93- 144.
    • (1992) Coastal Engineering , vol.17 , pp. 93-144
    • Gourlay, M.R.1
  • 10
    • 0018316888 scopus 로고
    • Series paper No. 21, Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Eng., Technical University of Denmark, Denmark
    • Hansen, J. B. & Svendsen, I. A. [1979] Regular waves in shoaling water experimental data, Series paper No. 21, Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Eng., Technical University of Denmark, Denmark.
    • (1979) Regular Waves in Shoaling Water Experimental Data
    • Hansen, J.B.1    Svendsen, I.A.2
  • 11
    • 0022286122 scopus 로고
    • Experimental study on turbulence structures under breaking waves
    • Hattori, M. & Aono, T. [1985] "Experimental study on turbulence structures under breaking waves," Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE 28, 97-116.
    • (1985) Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE , vol.28 , pp. 97-116
    • Hattori, M.1    Aono, T.2
  • 14
    • 0022269614 scopus 로고
    • Calculation and application of first-order cnoidal wave theory
    • Isobe, M. [1985] "Calculation and application of first-order cnoidal wave theory," Coastal Engineering 9, 309-325.
    • (1985) Coastal Engineering , vol.9 , pp. 309-325
    • Isobe, M.1
  • 15
    • 0002426911 scopus 로고
    • A parabolic equation model for transformation of irregular waves due to refraction, diffraction and breaking
    • Isobe, M. [1987] "A parabolic equation model for transformation of irregular waves due to refraction, diffraction and breaking," Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE 30, 33-47.
    • (1987) Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE , vol.30 , pp. 33-47
    • Isobe, M.1
  • 16
    • 1542728429 scopus 로고
    • Laboratory study of breakers
    • Circular 52, US Bureau of Standards
    • Iversen, H. W. [1952] "Laboratory study of breakers," Gravity Waves, Circular 52, US Bureau of Standards, pp. 9-32.
    • (1952) Gravity Waves , pp. 9-32
    • Iversen, H.W.1
  • 17
    • 0016368626 scopus 로고
    • Relationship between vertical distribution of water particle velocity and type of breakers on beaches
    • Iwagaki, Y., Sakai, T., Tsukioka, K. &: Sawai, N. [1974] "Relationship between vertical distribution of water particle velocity and type of breakers on beaches," Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE 17, 51-58.
    • (1974) Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE , vol.17 , pp. 51-58
    • Iwagaki, Y.1    Sakai, T.2    Tsukioka, K.3    Sawai, N.4
  • 20
    • 0004200043 scopus 로고
    • Tech. Report CERC-94-3, Waterways Experiment Station, US Army Corps of Engineers
    • Kraus, N. C. & Smith, J. M. [1994] SUPERTANK Laboratory Data Collection Project, Tech. Report CERC-94-3, Waterways Experiment Station, US Army Corps of Engineers, Vol. 1-2.
    • (1994) SUPERTANK Laboratory Data Collection Project , vol.1-2
    • Kraus, N.C.1    Smith, J.M.2
  • 21
    • 0000972498 scopus 로고
    • On the highest waves of a permanent type
    • McCowan, J. [1894] "On the highest waves of a permanent type," Philosophical Magazine, Edinburgh 38(5), 351-358.
    • (1894) Philosophical Magazine, Edinburgh , vol.38 , Issue.5 , pp. 351-358
    • McCowan, J.1
  • 22
    • 17144453647 scopus 로고
    • An heuristic model of wave height distribution in surf zone
    • Mizuguchi, M. [1980] "An heuristic model of wave height distribution in surf zone," in Proc. 17th Coastal Engineering Conf., ASCE, pp. 278-289.
    • (1980) Proc. 17th Coastal Engineering Conf., ASCE , pp. 278-289
    • Mizuguchi, M.1
  • 24
    • 0019915698 scopus 로고
    • The structure of velocity field within the surf zone revealed by means of laser-doppler anemometry
    • in Japanese
    • Nadaoka, K., Kondoh, T. & Tanaka, N. [1982] "The structure of velocity field within the surf zone revealed by means of laser-doppler anemometry," Port and Harbor Research Institute 21(2), pp. 50-102 (in Japanese).
    • (1982) Port and Harbor Research Institute , vol.21 , Issue.2 , pp. 50-102
    • Nadaoka, K.1    Kondoh, T.2    Tanaka, N.3
  • 29
    • 0017434360 scopus 로고
    • Study on rip currents: Experimental observation of nearshore circulation on a sloping bottom
    • Ozaki, A., Sasaki, M. & Usui, Y. [1977] "Study on rip currents: Experimental observation of nearshore circulation on a sloping bottom," Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE 20, 147-158.
    • (1977) Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE , vol.20 , pp. 147-158
    • Ozaki, A.1    Sasaki, M.2    Usui, Y.3
  • 34
    • 0024175072 scopus 로고
    • Measurements of near-bottom velocities in random waves on a constant slope
    • Sato, S., Fukuhama, M. & Horikawa, K. [1988] "Measurements of near-bottom velocities in random waves on a constant slope," Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE 31, 219-229.
    • (1988) Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE , vol.31 , pp. 219-229
    • Sato, S.1    Fukuhama, M.2    Horikawa, K.3
  • 35
    • 0000498604 scopus 로고
    • Long-wave component in near bottom velocity under random waves on a gentle slope
    • Sato, S., Isayama, T. & Shibayama, T. [1989] "Long-wave component in near bottom velocity under random waves on a gentle slope," Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE 32, 149-159.
    • (1989) Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE , vol.32 , pp. 149-159
    • Sato, S.1    Isayama, T.2    Shibayama, T.3
  • 37
    • 0016371265 scopus 로고
    • Non-linear long waves in channel of variable section
    • Shuto, N. [1974] "Non-linear long waves in channel of variable section," Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE 17, 1-12.
    • (1974) Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE , vol.17 , pp. 1-12
    • Shuto, N.1
  • 41
    • 0021428894 scopus 로고
    • Energy dissipation in wave breaking on gentle slopes
    • Stive, M. J. F. [1984] "Energy dissipation in wave breaking on gentle slopes," Coastal Engineering 8, 99-127.
    • (1984) Coastal Engineering , vol.8 , pp. 99-127
    • Stive, M.J.F.1
  • 42
    • 0000025473 scopus 로고
    • On the theory of oscillatory waves
    • Stokes, G. G. [1847] "On the theory of oscillatory waves," Trans. Camb. Phil. Soc. 8, 411-455.
    • (1847) Trans. Camb. Phil. Soc. , vol.8 , pp. 411-455
    • Stokes, G.G.1
  • 43
    • 0028668695 scopus 로고
    • Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone
    • Ting, C. K. & Kirby, J. T. [1994] "Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone," Coastal Engineering 24, 51-80.
    • (1994) Coastal Engineering , vol.24 , pp. 51-80
    • Ting, C.K.1    Kirby, J.T.2
  • 44
    • 0001274106 scopus 로고
    • Breaking invariants in shoaling waves
    • Van Dorn, W. G. [1978] "Breaking invariants in shoaling waves," J. Geophysical Research 83, 2981-2988.
    • (1978) J. Geophysical Research , vol.83 , pp. 2981-2988
    • Van Dorn, W.G.1
  • 45
    • 0006826289 scopus 로고
    • Report No. 77-1, Laboratory of Fluid Mech., Dept. of Civil Eng., Delft University of Tech., Delft, The Netherlands
    • Visser, P. J. [1977] Wave set-up: Experimental investigation on normally incident waves, Report No. 77-1, Laboratory of Fluid Mech., Dept. of Civil Eng., Delft University of Tech., Delft, The Netherlands.
    • (1977) Wave Set-up: Experimental Investigation on Normally Incident Waves
    • Visser, P.J.1
  • 46
    • 85040847496 scopus 로고
    • Report No. 82-1, Laboratory of Fluid Mech., Dept. of Civil Eng., Delft University of Tech., Delft, The Netherlands
    • Visser, P. J. [1982] The proper longshore current in a wave basin, Report No. 82-1, Laboratory of Fluid Mech., Dept. of Civil Eng., Delft University of Tech., Delft, The Netherlands.
    • (1982) The Proper Longshore Current in a Wave Basin
    • Visser, P.J.1


* 이 정보는 Elsevier사의 SCOPUS DB에서 KISTI가 분석하여 추출한 것입니다.