Fundamental properties of Boussinesq-type equations for wave motion over a permeable bed

Coastal Engineering Journal

Volumn 48, Issue 3, 2006, Pages 225-256

  Cruz, Eric C ^a,b   Chen, Qin ^a  

^a University of South Alabama   (United States)

^b UNIVERSITY OF THE PHILIPPINES   (Philippines)

Author keywords

Boussinesq equations; Celerity; Damping; Permeable bed; Wave motion

Indexed keywords

DAMPING; DISPERSION (WAVES); MOTION ESTIMATION; OPTIMIZATION; PARAMETER ESTIMATION; WAVE PROPAGATION;

BOUSSINESQ EQUATIONS; CELERITY; PERMEABLE BED; WAVE MOTION;

WAVE EQUATIONS;

EID: 33746892316     PISSN: 21664250     EISSN: 17936292     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1142/S0578563406001398     Document Type: Article

References (19)

1. Berkhoff, J. C. W. [1972] "Computation of combined refraction diffraction," in Proc. Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, pp. 471-490.
2. Chen, Q. [2005] "On the fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds," J. Engineering Mech., in press.
3. Chen, Q., Madsen, P. A., Schäffer, H. A. & Basco, D. R. [1998] "Wave-current interaction based on an enhanced Boussinesq approach," Coastal Eng. 33, 11-40.
4. Chen, Q., Dalrymple, R. A., Kirby, K. T., Kennedy, A. B. & Haller, M. C. [1999] "Boussinesq modeling of a rip current system," J. Geophys. Res. 104(C9), 617-620, 637.
5. Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A., Shi, F. & Thornton, E. B. [2003] "Boussinesq modeling of longshore currents," J. Geophys. Res. 108(C11), 3362-3380.
6. Cruz, E. C., Isobe, M. & Watanabe, A. [1992] "Nonlinear wave transformation over a submerged permeable breakwater," 23rd Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., pp. 1101-1114.
7. Cruz, E. C., Isobe, M. & Watanabe, A. [1997] "Boussinesq equations for wave transformation on porous beds," Coastal Eng. 30, 125-156.
8. Cruz, E. C. &: Chen, Q. [2004] "Optimization of Boussinesq-type models for surface waves over porous beds," Civil Eng. Oceans VI (in press).
9. Flaten, G. & Rygg, O. B. [1991] "Dispersive shallow water waves over a porous sea, bed," Coastal Eng. 15, 347-369.
10. Gu, Z. & Wang, H. [1991] "Gravity waves over porous bottoms," Coastal Eng. 15, 497-524.
11. Hsiao, S.-C., Liu, P. L.-F. & Chen, Y. [2002] "Nonlinear water waves propagating over a permeable bed," Proc. Royal Soc. Lond. A 458, 1291-1322.
12. Isobe, M., Shiba., K., Cruz, E. C. & Watanabe, A. [1991] "On the nonlinear deformation of waves due to submerged permeable breakwaters (in Japanese)," Proc. Coastal Eng., JSCE 38(1), 551-555.
13. Kioka, W. [1994] "Modeling of nonlinear wave transformation over a porous structure," Int. Symp. Waves -Physical and Numerical Modeling, Vol. 2, pp. 1116-1125.
14. Kirby, J. T. [2003] "Boussinesq models and applications to nearshore wave propagation, surf-zone processes and wave-induced currents," Advances in Coastal Modeling, ed. V. C. Lakhan (Elsevier), pp. 1-41.
15. Kobayashi, N [1986] "Closure to riprap stability under wave action," J. Waterway Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 112, 673-681.
16. Madsen, P. A. & Schäffer H. A. [1998] "Higher-order Boussinesq-type equations for surface gravity waves: derivation and analysis," Phil. Trans. Royal Soc. Lond. A 356, 3123-3184.
17. Madsen, P. A., Murray, R., & Sorensen, O. R. [1992] "A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics, " Coastal Eng. 15, 371-388.
18. Nwogu, O. [1993] "Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation," J. Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, ASCE 119(6), 618-638.
19. Rojanakamthorn, S., Isobe, M. & Watanabe, A. [1990] "Modeling of wave transformation on submerged breakwater," 23rd Inter. Conf. Coastal Eng., pp. 1060-1073.