Velvet is very important: Madge garland and the work of fashion

GLQ

Volumn 11, Issue 3, 2005, Pages 371-390

  Cohen, Lisa ^a  

^a NONE

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

EID: 33744792240     PISSN: 10642684     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1215/10642684-11-3-371     Document Type: Article

References (69)

1. Madge Garland memoir drafts, Madge Garland Papers. These papers consist of four small boxes of ephemera and typescripts and are held privately by Garland's literary executor.
2. Garland memoir drafts.
3. Angela Neustatter, "The Magic Circle," Guardian, September 9, 1975.
4. The Diary of Virgina Woolf, ed. Anne Olivier Bell, 5 vols. (New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1977-84), 3:184 (May 31, 1928).
5. For more on the professional and personal association between Woolf and Garland, see my "'Frock Consciousness': Virginia Woolf, the Open Secret, and the Language of Fashion," Fashion Theory 3 (1999): 149-74.
6. Sarah Stacey to author, interview, London, December 1997.
7. "Madge Garland," Sunday Telegraph, July 18, 1990.
8. See, e.g., Madge Garland, The Changing Face of Beauty: Four Thousand Years of Beautiful Women (London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1957);
9. Garland, Fashion (Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1962);
10. Garland, The Indecisive Decade: The World of Fashion and Entertainment in the Thirties (London: Macdonald, 1968);
11. Garland, The Changing Form of Fashion (London: Dent, 1970);
12. and Madge Garland and J. Anderson Black, A History of Fashion (London: Orbis, 1975).
13. "Madge Garland," Times, July 18, 1990.
14. Cohen, '"Frock Consciousness.' "
15. SaraJane Hoare, "Come into the Garland, Madge," Observer, December 14, 1986.
16. Draper of Australia, February 27, 1920, 70.
17. Francis Wyndham to author, telephone interview, January 14, 1999. Some of the following "portraits" are based on photographs; others are drawn from sources including newspaper articles, interviews, and correspondence.
18. Cecil Beaton, Photobiography (Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1951), 42.
19. "Dress Reformer," clipping, ca. late 1945, Madge Garland Papers.
20. "Their Business Is Fashion," British Vogue, June 1949, 78-83.
21. "And by the Way . . . ," Times, June 5, 1956.
22. "The First Professor of Fashion," Picture Post, February 19, 1949.
23. "Madge," n.d., Madge Garland Papers.
24. "Madge Garland Writes a Forecast of Fashion," Bystander, September 21, 1932, 561;
25. Bystander, January 6, 1932, 35;
26. Bystander, January 6, 1932, 35;
27. Bystander, January 20, 1932, 133.
28. Gertrude Stein, "Portrait of Mabel Dodge at Villa Curiona," in Writings, vol. 1 (New York: Library of America, 1998), 357.
29. "The Changing Face of Beauty, by Madge Garland," clipping, ca. 1957, Madge Garland Papers.
30. Madge Garland, "Artifices, Confections, and Manufactures," in The Anatomy of Design: A Series of Inaugural Lectures by Professors of the Royal College of Art (London: Royal College of Art, 1951), 82.
31. Garland to Isabelle Anscombe, interview, London, October 8, 1979.
32. Madge Garland, "Introduction," in Fashion, 1900-1939: A Scottish Arts Council Exhibition, with the Support of the Victoria and Albert Museum (London: Idea, 1975), 7.
33. Garland, "Artifices, Confections, and Manufactures," 87.
34. Garland, "Seven Ages of Fashion: Regency," Thames television, 1975;
35. Garland, "Artifices, Confections, and Manufactures," 81.
36. Garland memoir drafts.
37. Garland, "Artifices, Confections, and Manufactures," 81.
38. Madge Garland, Recollections of Virginia Woolf ed. Joan Russell Noble (London: Owen, 1972), 171.
39. Garland to Anscombe, interview.
40. "Their Business Is Fashion."
41. Garland, "Artifices, Confections, and Manufactures," 82.
42. "Dress Reformer," Madge Garland Papers.
43. Neustatter, "Magic Circle."
44. "Madge," n.d., Madge Garland Papers.
45. See, e.g., Isabelle Anscombe, A Woman's Touch: Women in Design from 1860 to the Present Day (London: Virago, 1984).
46. Madge Garland Papers.
47. Harry Yoxall diary, September 13, 1926. Private collection.
48. Ibid., September 2, 1935.
49. Francis King to author, interview, London, March 21, 1998.
50. Hilary Spurling to author, interview, London, January 11, 2002.
51. Peter Ward-Jackson to author, interview, London, September 17, 1997.
52. Spurling to author, interview, New York, February 22, 1995.
53. Ibid.
54. Patrick Woodcock to author, interview, London, January 25, 2002.
55. Garland to Peter Ward-Jackson and Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, taped conversation, London, ca. late 1980s.
56. Graham Reynolds to author, telephone interview, January 12, 2004.
57. Woodcock to author, interview.
58. Garland to Anscombe, interview.
59. Brian Masters, "Patrick Woodcock," Guardian, June 20, 2002; Woodcock to author, interview.
60. Susan Sontag, "Notes on 'Camp,'" in Against Interpretation, and Other Essays (New York: Dell, 1966), 277.
61. Susan Sontag, "The Double Standard of Aging," Saturday Review, September 23, 1972, 38.
62. Helen Drummond to author, interview, December 8, 1997.
63. Wyndham to author, telephone interview.
64. Ward-Jackson to author, interview.
65. Charlotte Gere to author, interview, London, January 14, 2002.
66. Spurling to author, interview, London, January 11, 2002.
67. Madge Garland, "For Thousands of Years Women's Dress Has Proclaimed Her Status-Does It Now?" n.d., Madge Garland Papers.
68. Garland, "Introduction," 7.
69. Madge Garland, review of The Man Who Was Vogue: The Life and Times of Condé Nast, by Caroline Seebohm, Financial Times, September 11, 1982.