Prediction of sediment transport in the swash-zone by using a nonlinear wave model

Continental Shelf Research

Volumn 26, Issue 5, 2006, Pages 599-609

  Karambas, Theophanis V ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF THE AEGEAN   (Greece)

Author keywords

Boussinesq model; Nonlinear waves; Runup; Sediment transport; Swash zone

Indexed keywords

BOUSSINESQ EQUATION; INFILTRATION; NONLINEAR WAVE; POROUS MEDIUM; SEDIMENT TRANSPORT; SUSPENDED SEDIMENT; WAVE RUNUP;

EID: 33646048358     PISSN: 02784343     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/j.csr.2006.01.014     Document Type: Article

References (38)

1. Butt T., Russell P., and Turner I.L. The influence of swash infiltration-exfiltration on beach face sediment transport: onshore or offshore. Coastal Engineering 42 1 (2001) 35-52
2. Butt T., Russell P., Puleo J., Miles J., and Masselink G. The influence of bore turbulence on sediment transport in the swash and inner surf zones. Continental Shelf Research 24 (2004) 757-771
3. Conley D.C., and Inman D. Ventilated oscillatory boundary layers. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 273 (1994) 261-284
4. Cruz E.C., Isobe M., and Watanabe A. Boussinesq equations for wave transformation on porous beds. Coastal Engineering 30 (1997) 125-156
5. Dicker D. Transient free surface flow in porous media. In: DeWiest R.J.M. (Ed). Flow Through Porous Media (1969), Academic Press, New York, NY 293-330
6. Heitner, K.L., 1969. A mathematical model for calculation of run-up of tsunamis. Ph.D. Thesis, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, California, USA.
7. Horn D.P., and Mason T. Swash zone sediment transport modes. Marine Geology 120 (1994) 309-325
8. Hughes M.G., Masselink G., and Brander R.W. Flow velocity and sediment transport in the swash zone of a steep beach. Marine Geology 138 (1997) 91-103
9. Jackson N.L., Masselink G., and Nordstrom K.F. The role of bore collapse and local shear stresses on the spatial distribution of sediment load in the uprush of an intermediate-state beach. Marine Geology 203 (2004) 109-118
10. Karambas Th.V. Modelling of infiltration-exfiltration effects of cross-shore sediment transport in the swash zone. Coastal Engineering Journal 45 1 (2003) 63-82
11. Karambas Th.V., and Karathanassi E.K. Boussinesq modeling of longshore currents and sediment transport. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE) 130 6 (2004) 277-286
12. Karambas Th.V., and Koutitas C. Surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 128 3 (2002) 102-113
13. Karambas Th.V., and Tozer N.P. Breaking waves in the surf and swash zone. Journal of Coastal Research 19 3 (2003) 514-528
14. Katori S., Tanaka K., Kubota S., and Takezawa M. Field measurements of on-offshore sediment transport rate in the swash zone. In: Hanson H., and Larson M. (Eds). Coastal Dynamics '01, Lund, Sweden (2001), ASCE 898-907
15. Kobayashi N., and Johnson B.D. Sand suspension, storage, advection, and settling in surf and swash zones. Journal of Geophysical Research 106 C5 (2001) 9363-9376
16. Kobayashi N., and Tega Y. Sand suspension and transport on equilibrium beach. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 128 6 (2002) 238-248
17. Larson M., Kubota S., and Erikson L. A model of sediment transport and profile evolution in the swash zone (2001), Coastal Dynamics '01, ASCE, Lund pp. 908-917
18. Masselink G., and Hughes M.G. Field investigation of sediment transport in the swash zone. Continental Shelf Research 18 (1998) 1179-1199
19. Meyer-Peter, E., Müller, R., 1948. Formulas for bed-load transport. Proceedings of the second Congress of the International Association for Hydraulics Structures Research, Stockholm, Sweden.
20. Nielsen P. Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport (1992), World Scientific, Singapore 324pp
21. Nielsen P. Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for swash zone modeling. Coastal Engineering 45 (2002) 53-60
22. Nielsen P., Robert S., Moeller-Christiansen B., and Oliva P. Infiltration effects on sediment mobility under waves. Coastal Engineering 42 2 (2001) 105-114
23. Packwood A.R. The influence of beach porosity on wave uprush and backwash. Coastal Engineering 7 (1983) 29-40
24. Pritchard D., and Hogg A.J. On the transport of suspended sediment by a swash event on a plane beach. Coastal Engineering 52 (2005) 1-23
25. Puleo J.A., Beach R.A., Holman R.A., and Allen J.S. Swash zone sediment suspension and transport and the importance of bore-generated turbulence. Journal of Geophysical Research 105 C7 (2000) 17021-17044
26. Rakha K.A., Deigaard R., and Broker I. A phase-resolving cross shore transport model for beach evolution. Coastal Engineering 31 (1997) 231-261
27. Ribberink J.S. Bed-load transport for steady flows and unsteady oscillatory flows. Coastal Engineering 34 (1998) 59-82
28. Roelvink J.A., and Reniers A.J.H.M. LIP 11D Delta Flume experiments. Delft Hydraulics, Delta, Data Report H (1995) 2130
29. Schäffer H.A., Madsen P.A., and Deigaard R. A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water. Coastal Engineering 20 (1993) 185-202
30. Shimizu T., and Ikeno M. Experimental study on sediment transport in surf and swash zones using large wave flume. International Conference on Coastal Engineering 1996 (1996), ASCE pp. 3076-3089
31. Turner I.L., and Masselink G. Swash infiltration-exfiltration and sediment transport. Journal of Geophysical Research 103 C13 (1998) 30813-30824
32. Van Gent M.R.A. The modeling of wave action on and in coastal structures. Coastal Engineering 22 (1994) 311-339
33. Van Gent, M.R.A., 1995. Wave interaction with permeable coastal structures. Ph.D. Thesis, Delft University of Technology.
34. Wang P., Smith E.R., and Ebersole B.A. Large-scale laboratory measurements of longshore sediment transport under spilling and plunging breakers. Journal of Coastal Research 18 1 (2002) 118-135
35. Wei G., and Kirby J.T. Time-dependent numerical code for extended Boussinesq equations. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 121 5 (1995) 251-261
36. Wu C.-S. The energy dissipation of breaking waves. In: Darlymple R.A. (Ed). Coastal Hydrodynamics (1987), University of Delaware 740-750
37. Yamamoto, Y., Horikawa, K., Tanimoto, K., 1996. Prediction of shoreline change considering cross-shore sediment transport. Proceedings ICCE 1996, 3405-3418.
38. Zelt J.A. The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves. Coastal Engineering 15 (1991) 205-246