The decline and rise of textile merchanting, 1880-1990

Business History

Volumn 32, Issue 4, 1990, Pages 171-190

  Chapman, Stanley ^a  

^a NONE

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EID: 2742513988     PISSN: 00076791     EISSN: 17437938     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1080/00076799000000149     Document Type: Article

References (95)

1. The best bibliography of the extensive literature on the cotton industry in this period is in D.A. Farnie, The English Cotton Industry and the World Market, 1815-96 (Oxford, 1979) pp.329-384.
2. S. D. Chapman, British Mercantile Enterprise in the Nineteenth Century, Ch.6 (forthcoming).
3. R. Robson, The Cotton Industry in Britain (1957) Ch.IV.
4. R. Gatty, Portrait of a Merchant Prince: James Morrison 1789-1857 (privately published, Northallerton, 1981)
5. S. Smiles, George Moore, Merchant and Philanthropist (1878)
6. E. Hodder, The Life of Samuel Morley (1888)
7. C.M. Leaf, Walter Leaf 1852-1927 (1932)
8. N.B. Harte, A History of George Brettle & Co. Ltd., 1801-1964 (1977)
9. F.M. Thomas, I. & R. Morley: A Record of a Hundred Years (1900)
10. Dictionary of Business Biography articles on J.D. Allcroft, Sir George Williams.
11. Manchester Public Library, Tootal Broadhurst Lee minute books, C.P.A. Minute books; J. Hunter, History of J. & P. Coats (forthcoming). Wolsey Ltd. was incorporated with a capital of £2.0 mijlion in 1920 (private records).
12. S.D. Chapman, The Rise of Merchant Banking (1984)
13. W.D. Rubinstein, Men of Property (1981) p.107.
14. R. Gatty, James Morrison p.23
15. Select Committee on Trade Marks, (P.P. 1862, XII), p.542, evidence of John Dillon
16. A.P. Allen, The Ambassadors of Commerce (1885) pp. 104-107.
17. W.H. Hillyer, James Talcott, Merchant, and His Times (New York, 1937) pp.92-93.
18. H.B. Heylin, Buyers and Sellers in the Cotton Trade (1913) pp.122-3, 128. Marks & Spencer archives, Sacher typescript history of the company.
19. A.P. Shaw, Ambassadors of Commerce (1885) p.106.
20. R. Spencer, The Home Trade of Manchester (1890) p.45
21. Leaf, Walter Leaf p.112; Fore St. Co. annual reports.
22. Fore St. Co. report, 1888
23. Leaf, Walter Leaf p.114
24. Heylin, Buyers, and sellers, p.122.
25. M. Corina, Fine Silks and Oak Counters: Debenharns, 1778-1978 (1978) pp. 44-5, 71, 114.
26. The Statist, Vol. 39 (1897), p.840.
27. Hodder, Morley, pp.23-26
28. Spencer, Home Trade, pp.53, 76-7
29. See women's and trade periodicals of the day, such as Draper's Record, Woman, Woman's Journal.
30. The Times, 17 Jan. 1906 (Horrocks).
31. Thomas, I. & R. Morley
32. D.A. Farnie, ‘John Rylands of Manchester’ Bulletin of the John Rylands Library, Vol.LVI (1973).
33. Cook, Sons & Co., Cooks of St. Pauls’: 150 Years, 1807-1957 (1957)
34. Welch, Margetson & Co., Centenary Booklet (1933)
35. Ulster Record Office, Belfast T1346/1 (A. & S. Henry)
36. S.D. Chapman, ‘David Evans & Co., the Last of the Old London Textile Printers’, Textile History Vol.XIV (1983).
37. Threads [I. & R. Morley's house magazine], Vol.I No.4 (Oct. 1925), p.4
38. Heylin, Buyers and Sellers, p.122
39. Thomas, Morley, p.70.
40. Heylin maintained that in 1913 there were ‘many shipping firms in Manchester, London and Liverpool directly interested in spinning and weaving mills, especially in India’ but gave no examples. For Rylands’ overseas interests see Guildhall Lib., Kleinwort Information Books No.184, p.176.
41. Gatty, Morrison, pp.17-18
42. Smiles, Moore, p.165.
43. I. & R. Morley sales catalogues. Leaf & Co., in Modern London: The World's Metropolis (c. 1893), p.179
44. A Short History of Bradbury, Gretorex & Co. (1970)
45. Spencer, Home Trade, p.56.
46. S.R.B. Smith, ‘British Nationalism, Imperialism and the City of London, 1880-1900’ (Unpublished Ph.D. thesis, University of London, 1985), pp.35-37.
47. 18 out of 77 travellers: Thomas, Morley, p.76.
48. J.E. Hodder Williams, Life of Sir George Williams (1906), p.257
49. Guildhall Library, Kleinwort Information Books, No.184, p.176. Rylands made ‘a great push in Paris’ and also in Rio in the 1870s.
50. J.F. Barclay, The Story of Arthur & Co. Ltd. (Glasgow, 1953), pp.123-124.
51. J. Millington and S.D. Chapman (eds.), Four Centuries of Machine Knitting (Leicester, 1989), p.34.
52. Draper's Record, 21 March 1953, p.95.
53. E.W. Pasold, Ladybird, Ladybird (Manchester, 1977), pp.105-6, 256-8.
54. Pasold, Ladybird, pp. 112-113.
55. G. Rees, St. Michael: A History of Marks & Spencer (1969), especially pp. 104-105.
56. A. Briggs, Marks & Spencers, 1884-1984 (1984)
57. K. Jopp, Corah of Leicester (Leicester, 1965), pp.42-3.
58. Marks & Spencer archives, Baker St., London, Sales invoices (1918) and typescript history of the company by Harry Sacher, Chs.4, 5.
59. Cook, Sons & Co., Cooks of St. Pauls (1957) p.13.
60. H. Clay, Report on the English Cotton Industry (1931).
61. F.A. Wells, The British Hosiery and Knitwear Industry (1972), p.190
62. Leicester Record Office, Kempton Papers, Hosiery Working Party HOS 56/7,10; J.B. Jefferys, The Distribution of Consumer Goods (Cambridge, 1950), pp.313-326.
63. Millington and Chapman, Four Centuries, p.37.
64. J.M. Stopford and C. Baden-Fuller, Competitive Dynamics in Mature Industries: The Case of the UK Knitwear Industry (typescript, London Business School, 1989), p.5.
65. S.D. Chapman, ‘Mergers and Takeovers in the Post-War Textile Industry: The Case of Hosiery and Knitwear’, Business History, Vol. 30 (1988).
66. Millington and Chapman, Four Centuries, p.35.
67. Market Research Services, London, reports on retailing trends (1988).
68. Economist Intelligence Unit, Textile Outlook International especially articles on ‘The Globalisation of Retailing’ (Jan. 1988)
69. ‘Foreign Direct Investment and the Hong Kong Textile and Clothing Industry’ (Sept. 1985).
70. S.D. Chapman, ‘Pretty Polly Ltd. in the World Hosiery Industry’ in Sue Birley (ed.), European Entrepreneurship; Emerging Growth Companies (Cranfield, 1989).
71. D.C. Coleman, Courtaulds. Volume III, Crisis and Change, 1940-65 (Oxford, 1980) gives the background.
72. Chapman, ‘Mergers and Takeovers’ for subsequent developments.
73. Economist Intelligence Unit, World Textile Trade and Production Trends (1989).
74. Keynote Report, Clothing Manufacturers (1987).
75. Textile Outlook International (Sept. 1985).
76. Economist Intelligence Unit, World Textile Trade (1989).
77. Kurt Salmon Associates, ‘Product Supply Management’, British Clothing Manufacturer (Sept. 1979) (italics in the original).
78. D. Elson, ‘The Cutting Edge: Multinationals in Textiles and Clothing’, in D. Elson and R. Pearson (eds.), Women's Employment and Multinational in Europe (1989).
79. ‘Courtaulds Fashions a Comeback’, Management Today (May 1986)
80. ‘Coats Viyella and Tootal’, Guardian, 4 Oct. 1988, p.15
81. Knitting International (Jan. 1989), p.46.
82. Tootal Group annual reports, 1987-89
83. ‘Profile of Tootal’, Textile Outlook International (Nov 1987)
84. Guardian, 4 Oct. 1987, p.15.
85. Keynot Report, Clothing Manufacturers (1987).
86. Guardian, 13 May 1989, p.11.
87. Hoare Govett, Textile Bulletin, 12 May 1989
88. Knitting International (July 1989).
89. Kitcat and Aitken, The Second Textile Revolution (Jan. 1987) pp.2,10.
90. The classic success story of the 1980s is Benetton, the subject of several management school case studies. See, for example, J.C. Jarillo and J.I. Martinez, Benetton S.P.A. (Harvard Business School, 1988).
91. D. Elson, ‘Transnational Corporations in the New International Division of Labour’, Manchester Papers on Development, Vol.IV (1988), p.13
92. Economist Intelligence Unit, World Textile Trade (1988) for comparative costs.
93. Guardian, 31 Oct. 1989, p.12
94. Hoare Govett report on Courtaulds, 31 Oct. 1989; Information from Courtaulds PLC.
95. M.J. Brooks and J. Simpson, Recent Changes in the British Clothing and Knitwear Industry: Interim Report of Survey (Intelligence Network International, London, June 1989). There are 53 firms in the sample.