Patterns of strategic adjustment in the US textile and apparel industries since 1979

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management

Volumn 9, Issue 2, 2005, Pages 180-194

  Kilduff, Peter ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA AT GREENSBORO   (United States)

Author keywords

Business environment; Organizational change; Organizational restructuring; Strategic change; Textile industry; United States of America

Indexed keywords

ECONOMIC STRATEGY; TEXTILE HISTORY; TEXTILE-CLOTHING INDUSTRY;

EID: 20344374955     PISSN: 13612026     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1108/13612020510599330     Document Type: Article

References (41)

1. Abernathy, F.H., Dunlop, J.T., Hammond, J.H. and Weil, D. (1999), A Stitch in Time, Oxford University Press, New York, NY.
2. Amacher, R.C., Rogers, C.D., Vaughn, E.A., Rippy, D.V., Hunter, O.F., Elliott, R.D. and Bailey, T. (1992), "The United States textile industry on the eve of its third century", Journal of the Textile Institute, Vol. 82 No. 2, pp. 213-21.
3. Anson, R. (2003), "Editorial: The 'big bang': Winners and losers in the textile and clothing industry in 2005 and beyond", Textile Outlook International, Vol. 107 September-October.
4. Arpan, J., de la Torre, J., Toyne, B., Bacchetta, M., Jedel, M., Stephan, P. and Halliburton, J. (1982), The US Apparel Industry: International Challenge, Domestic Response, Research Monograph No. 82, College of Business Administration, Georgia State University, Atlanta, GA.
5. ATMI (1979-2004), Textile Hilights, various issues.
6. Chandler, A.D. (1964), Strategy and Structure, MIT Press, Cambridge, MA.
7. Commission Working Group on the Textile Industr (1989), "The US textile industry: Challenges and opportunities", MIT Commission on Industrial Productivity Working Papers, MIT Press, Cambridge, MA.
8. Company annual reports (1979-2004a), Hartmarxi; Jones Apparel Group; Kellwood Co.; Liz Claiborne Inc.; Nike; Oxford Industries; Phillips Van Heusen; Polo Ralph Lauren; Russell Corp; Sara Lee; VF Corporation; Warnaco
9. Company annual reports (1979-2004b), Burlington Industries; Cone Mills; Galey & Lord, Guilford Mills Inc., Pillowtex Corp.; Springs Industries; Unifi Inc.; Westpoint Stevens.
10. de la Torre, J., Jedel, M., Arpan, J., Ogram, E. and Toyne, B. (1978), Corporate Responses to Import Competition in the US Apparel Industry, Georgia State University, Atlanta, GA, p. 45.
11. Dickerson, K.G. (1999), Textiles and Apparel in the Global Economy, 3rd ed., Prentice-Hall, Upper Saddle River, NJ.
12. Doeringer, P. and Watson, A. (2000), "Apparel", in Mowery, D.C. (Ed.), US Industry in 2000: Studies in Competitive Performance, National Academy Press, Washington, DC, pp. 329-62.
13. Finnie, T.A. (1992), Textiles and Apparel in the USA: Restructuring for the 1990s, Special Report 2632, Economist Intelligence Unit, London.
14. Flanagan, M. (2004), "The ground rules for sourcing after 2005", Management Briefing, February, available at: www.just-style.com.
15. Gale Research Inc. (2004), Market Share Reporter, Gale Research Inc., Detroit, MI.
16. Gereffi, G. (1994), "The organization of buyer-driven global commodity chains: How US retailers shape overseas production networks", in Gereffi, G. and Korzeniewicz, M. (Eds), Commodity Chains and Global Capitalism, Greenwood Press, Westport, CT.
17. Hunter, N.A. (1990), Quick Response in Apparel Manufacturing: A Survey of the American Scene, The Textile Institute, Manchester, UK, pp. 35-7.
18. Just-Style.com (2001), "USA: Springs gets offer to go private", 21 February, available at: www.just-style.com (accessed 25 February, 2004).
19. Just-Style.com (2003), "USA: Court gives Ross go-ahead to buy Burlington", 31 October, available at: www.just-style.com (accessed 25 February, 2004).
20. Just-Style.com (2004a), "USA: Cone Mills completes $ 46m sale to WL Ross", 15 March, available at www.just-style.com (accessed 25 February, 2004).
21. Just-style.com (2004b), "USA: Galey & Lord to be bought by Patriarch Partners", available at: www.just-style.com (accessed 29 July, 2004).
22. Kilduff, P.D.F. (2000), "Evolving strategies, structures and relationships in complex and turbulent business environments: The emerging textile and apparel industries of the new millenium: Part 1", Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management, Vol. 1 No. 1, available at: www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm.
23. Kilduff, P.D.F. (2001a), "Outlook for the US apparel industry", Textile Outlook International, Vol. 95, September.
24. Kilduff, P.D.F. (2001b), "Evolving strategies, structures and relationships in complex and turbulent business environments: The emerging textile and apparel industries of the new millenium: Part 2", Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management, Vol. 1 No. 2, available at: www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm.
25. Kilduff, P.D.F. and Priestland, C. (2001), Strategic Transformation in the US Textile & Apparel Industries, A Study of Business Dynamics with Forecasts up to 2010, College of Textiles, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, NC.
26. Lowson, B., King, R. and Hunter, A. (1999), Quick Response: Managing the Supply Chain to Meet Consumer Demand, John Wiley & Sons, Chichester.
27. Malone, S. (2004), "Avondale takes $5.4m loss", Women's Wear Daily, 15 April, p. 7, available at: http://infotrac.galegroup.com/ (accessed 25 July, 2004).
28. Mintzberg, H. (1979), The Structuring of Organizations, Prentice-Hall Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ.
29. Office of Technology and Assessment (OTA) (1987), The US Textile and Apparel Industry: A Revolution in Progress, Footnote No. 22, Congress of the United States, Washington, DC, p. 25.
30. OTEXA (2004), "Trade data - US imports and exports of textiles and apparel", available at www.otexa.ita.doc.gov (accessed 14 February 2004).
31. Singletary, E.P. and Winchester, S.C. Jr (1996), "Beyond mass production: Analysis of the emerging manufacturing transformation in the US textile industry", Journal of the Textile Institute, Part 2, Vol. 87, pp. 97-116.
32. Standard & Poor's (1980-2002a), Apparel: Basic Analysis, Industry Surveys, various years.
33. Standard & Poor's (1980-2002b), Apparel & Footwear Industry Survey, Industry Surveys, various years.
34. Standard & Poor's (1980-2002c), Textile, Apparel and Home Furnishings: Basic Analysis, Industry Surveys, various years.
35. Toyne, B., Arpan, J.S., Barnett, A.H., Ricks, D.A. and Shimp, T.A. (1983), The US Textile Mill Products Industry: Strategies for the 1980s and Beyond, University of South Carolina Press, Columbia, SC.
36. US Census Bureau (2004), "Manufacturers' shipments, inventories, and orders (M3) historic time series documentation", US Census Bureau, Washington, DC, available at: www.census.gov/mcd/ (accessed 14 February 2004).
37. USITC (2004), Dataweb, available at: http://www.dataweb.usitc.gov/ (accessed 14 July 2004).
38. WomensWear Daily (1997), "Brands are important, but...", WWD Lifestyle Monitor, February.
39. Yasuda, H. (1994), "An analysis of the responses of the United States textile and apparel industries to changes in the business environment between 1960 and 1992", doctoral thesis, University of Leeds, Leeds.
40. National Technical Information Service (2000), US Industry and Trade Outlook, US Department of Commerce, Washington, DC.
41. United States International Trade Commission (USITC) (1987), US Global Competitiveness: The US Textile Mill Industry, Report to the Committee on Finance, US Senate Investigation No. 332-229 under Section 332(b) of the Tariff Act of 1930, USITC, Washington, DC, pp. 4-7.