Coastal geomorphology into the twenty-first century

Progress in Physical Geography

Volumn 27, Issue 4, 2003, Pages 607-624

  Stephenson, Wayne J ^a   Brander, Robert W ^b  

^a UNIVERSITY OF MELBOURNE   (Australia)

^b UNIVERSITY OF NEW SOUTH WALES   (Australia)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

BEACH MORPHOLOGY; COASTAL LANDFORM; GEOMORPHOLOGY;

EID: 0347033487     PISSN: 03091333     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1191/0309133303pp398pr     Document Type: Article

References (185)

1. Aagaard, T. 2002: Modulation of surf zone processes on a barred beach due to changing water levels; Skallingen, Denmark. Journal of Coastal Research 18, 25-38.
2. Aagaard, T., Greenwood, B. and Neilsen, J. 1997: Mean currents and sediment transport in a rip channel. Marine Geology 140, 25-45.
3. Aagaard, T., Black, K.P. and Greenwood, B. 2002: Cross-shore suspended sediment transport in the surf zone: a field-based parameterization. Marine Geology 185, 283-302.
4. Aalto, K.R., Aalto, R., Garrison-Laney, C.E. and Abramson, H.F. 1999: Tsunami(?) sculpturing of the Pebble Beach wave-cut platform, Crescent City area, California. Journal of Geology 107, 607-22.
5. Allan, J.C., Stephenson, W.J., Kirk, R.M. and Taylor, A. 2002: Lacustrine shore platforms at Lake Waikaremoana, North Island, New Zealand. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 27, 207-20.
6. Allen, J.R.L. 2000: Morphodynamics of Holocene salt marshes: A review sketch from the Atlantic and southern North Sea coasts of Europe. Quaternary Science Reviews 19, 1155-231.
7. Andrews, B., Gares, P.A. and Colby, J.D. 2002: Techniques for GIS modelling of coastal dunes. Geomorphology 48, 289-308.
8. Anthony, E.J. 2002: Long-term marine bedload segregation, and sandy versus gravelly Holocene shorelines in the eastern English Channel. Marine Geology 187, 221-34.
9. Anthony, E.J., Gardel, A., Dolique, F. and Guiral, D. 2002a: Short-term changes in the plan shape of a sandy beach in response to sheltering by a nearshore mud bank, Cayenne, French Guiana. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 27, 857-66.
10. Anthony, E.J., Oyédé, L.M. and Lang, J.G. 2002b: Sedimentation in a fluvially infilling, barrier-bound estuary on a wave-dominated, microtidal coast: the Ouémé river estuary, Benin, West Africa. Sedimentology 49, 1095-112.
11. Arbogast, A.F., Hansen, E.C. and Van Oort, M.D. 2002: Reconstructing the geomorphic evolution of large coastal dunes along the southeastern shore of Lake Michigan. Geomorphology 46, 241-55.
12. Baas, A.C.W. 2002: Chaos, fractals and self-organization in coastal geomorphology: simulating dune landscapes in vegetated environments. Geomorphology 48, 309-28.
13. Bailey, S. and Bristow, C. 2000: Structure of coastal dunes: observations from ground penetrating radar (GPR) surveys. Proceedings of SPIE - The International Society for Optical Engineering 4084, 660-65.
14. Baquerizo, A., Caballeria, M., Losada, M.A. and Falqués, A. 2001: Frontshear and backshear instabilities of the mean longshore current. Journal of Geophysical Research C 106, 16997-7011.
15. Battiau-Queney, Y., Billet, J.F., Chaverot, S. and Lanoy-Ratel, P. 2003: Recent shoreline mobility and geomorphologic evolution of macrotidal sandy beaches in the north of France. Marine Geology 194, 31-45.
16. Bauer, B.O. and Davidson-Arnott, R.G.D. 2003: A general framework for modelling sediment supply to coastal dunes including wind angle, beach geometry, and fetch effects. Geomorphology 49, 89-108.
17. Bernabeu, A.M., Medina, R. and Vidal, C. 2003: A morphological model of the beach profile integrating wave and tidal influences. Marine Geology 197, 95-116.
18. Bird, E. 2000: Coastal geomorphology; and introduction. New York: John Wiley and Sons.
19. Borówka, I.M. and Rotnicki, K. 2001: Budget of the eolian sand transport on the sandy barrier beach (a case study of the Leba barrier, southern Baltic coast, Poland). Zeitschrift für Geomorphologie 45, 55-79.
20. Bowen, A.J. and Holman, R.A. 1989: Shear instabilities of the mean longshore current: 1. Theory. Journal of Geophysical Research 94, 18023-30.
21. Brander, R.W. 1999: Field observations on the morphodynamic evolution of a low-energy rip current system. Marine Geology 157, 199-217.
22. Brander, R.W. and Short, A.D. 2000: Morphodynamics of a large-scale rip current system at Muriwai Beach, New Zealand. Marine Geology 165, 27-39.
23. Brander, R.W. 2001: Flow kinematics of low-energy rip current systems. Journal of Coastal Research 17, 468-81.
24. Bristow, C.S., Chroston, P.N. and Bailey, S.D. 2000: The structure and development of foredunes on a locally prograding coast: insights from ground-penetrating radar surveys, Norfolk, UK. Sedimentology 45, 953-44.
25. Bryant, E. 2001: Tsunami: the underrated hazard. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
26. Butt, T. and Russell, P. 2000: Hydrodynamics and cross-shore sediment transport in the swash-zone of natural beaches: a review. Journal of Coastal Research 16, 255-68.
27. Chen, Q., Dalrymple, R.A., Kirby, J.T., Kennedy, A.B. and Haller, M.C. 1999: Boussinesq modelling of a rip current system. Journal of Geophysical Research C 104, 20617-37.
28. Cipriani, L.E. and Stone, G.W. 2001: Net longshore sediment transport and textural changes in beach sediments along the southwest Alabama and Mississippi barrier islands, U.S.A. Journal of Coastal Research 17, 443-58.
29. Clemmensen, L.B., Pye, K., Murray, A. and Heinemeier, J. 2001: Sedimentology, stratigraphy and landscape evolution of a Holocene coastal dune system, Lodbjerg, NW Jutland, Denmark. Sedimentology 48, 3-27.
30. Cooper, J.A.G. 2001: Geomorphological variability among microtidal estuaries from the wave-dominated South African coast. Geomorphology 40, 99-122.
31. Cooper, J.A.G. 2002: The role of extreme floods in estuary-coastal behaviour: contrasts between river- and tide-dominated microtidal estuaries. Sedimentary Geology 150, 123-37.
32. Cooper, N.J., Hooke, J.M. and Bray, M.J. 2001: Predicting coastal evolution using a sediment budget approach: a case study from Southern England. Ocean and Coastal Management 44, 711-28.
33. Cowell, P.J. and Kench, P.S. 2001: The morphological response of atoll islands to sea-level rise. Part 1: modifications to the shoreface translation model. Journal of Coastal Research 34, 633-44.
34. Da Fontoura Klein, A.H. and De Menezes, J.T. 2001: Beach morphodynamics and profile sequence for a headland bay coast. Journal of Coastal Research 17, 812-35.
35. Da Fontoura Klein, A.H., Benedet Filho, L. and Schumacher, D.H. 2002: Short-term beach rotation processes in distinct headland bay beach systems. Journal of Coastal Research 18, 442-58.
36. Damgaard, J., Dodd, N., Hall, L. and Chesher, T. 2002: Morphodynamic modelling of rip channel growth. Coastal Engineering 45, 199-221.
37. Díez, J.J. 2000: A review of some concepts involved in the sea-level rise problem. Journal of Coastal Research 16, 1179-84.
38. Dodd, N. 1994: On the destabilization of a longshore current on a plane beach: bottom shear stress, critical conditions, and onset of instability. Journal of Geophysical Research c 99, 811-24.
39. Dodd, N. and Falques, A. 1996: A note on spatial modes in longshore current shear instabilities. Journal of Geophysical Research C 101, 22 715-26.
40. Dodd, N., Oltman-Shay, J. and Thornton, E.B. 1992: Shear instabilities in the longshore current: a comparison of observation and theory. Journal of Physical Oceanography 22, 62-82.
41. Dornbusch, U., Williams, R.B.G., Moeses, C. and Robinson, D.A. 2002: Life expectancy of shingle beaches: measuring in situ abrasion. Journal of Coastal Research SI 36, 249-55.
42. Doucette, J.S. 2002: Bedform migration and sediment dynamics in the nearshore of a low-energy sandy beach in Southwestern Australia. Journal of Coastal Research 18, 576-91.
43. Dronen, N., Karunarathna, H., Fredsoe, J., Sumer, B.M. and Deigaard, R. 2002: An experimental study of rip channel flow. Coastal Engineering 45, 223-38.
44. Dulou, C., Belzons, M. and Rey, V. 2002: Bar formation under breaking wave conditions: a laboratory study. Journal of Coastal Research 18, 802-809.
45. Duperret, A., De Pomerai, M.R., Genter, A., Mortimore, R.N. and Delacourt, B. 2002: Coastal rock cliff erosion by collapse at Puys, France: the role of impervious marl seams within chalk of NW Europe. Journal of Coastal Research 18, 52-61.
46. Elfrink, B. and Baldock, T. 2002: Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone: a review and perspectives. Coastal Engineering 45, 149-67.
47. Elliott, M. and McLusky, D.S. 2002: The need for definitions in understanding estuaries. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 55, 815-27.
48. Evans, G. and Prego, R. 2003: Rias, estuaries and incised valleys: is a ria an estuary? Marine Geology 196, 171-75.
49. Felton, E.A. 2002: Sedimentology of rocky shorelines: 1. A review of the problem, with analytical methods, and insights gained from the Hulopoe gravel and the modern rocky shoreline of Lanai, Hawaii. Sedimentary Geology 152, 221-45.
50. Felton, E.A. and Crook, K.A.W. 2003: Evaluating the impacts of huge waves on rocky shorelines: an essay review of the book 'Tsunami - the underrated hazard'. Marine Geology 197, 1-12.
51. Fitzgerald, D.M., Buynevich, I.V., Fenster, M.S. and Mckinlay, P.A. 2000: Sand dynamics at the mouth of a rock-bound, tide-dominated estuary. Sedimentary Geology 131, 25-49.
52. Fitzgerald, D.M., Buynevich, I.V., Davis, J.R.A. and Fenster, M.S. 2002: New England tidal inlets with special reference to riverine-associated inlet systems. Geomorphology 48, 179-208.
53. Goudie, A.S., Colls, A., Stokes, S., Parker, A., White, K. and Al-Farraj, A. 2000: Latest Pleistocene and Holocene dune construction at the north-eastern edge of the Rub Al Khali, United Arab Emirates. Sedimentology 47, 1011-21.
54. Haas, K.A. and Svendsen, I.A. 2002: Laboratory measurements of the vertical structure of rip currents. Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans 107, 15-1-15-20.
55. Hall, J.W., Meadowcroft, I.C., Lee, E.M. and Van Gelder, P.H.A.J.M. 2002: Stochastic simulation of episodic soft coastal cliff recession. Coastal Engineering 46, 159-74.
56. Haller, M.C. and Dalrymple, R.A. 2001: Rip current instabilities. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 433, 161-92.
57. Haller, M.C., Dalrymple, R.A. and Svendsen I.A. 2002: Experimental study of nearshore dynamics on a barred beach with rip channels. Journal of Geophysical Research C 107, 14-1-14-21.
58. Hapke, C. and Richmond, B. 2002: The impact of climatic and seismic events on the short-term evolution of seacliffs based on 3-d mapping: Northern Monterey Bay, California. Marine Geology 187, 259-78.
59. Harriott, V.J. and Banks, S.A. 2002: Latitudinal variation in coral communities in eastern Australia: a qualitative biophysical model of factors regulating coral reefs. Coral Reefs 21, 83-94.
60. Haslett, S.K. 2000: Coastal systems. London: Routledge.
61. Hearty, P.J. 1997: Boulder deposits from large waves during the last interglaciation on North Eleuthera Island, Bahamas. Quaternary Research 48, 326-38.
62. Hemmingsen, M.A. 2001: The abrasion of 'greywacke' on a mixed sand and gravel coast. Journal of Coastal Research SI 34, 278-87.
63. Hequette, A., Desrosiers, M., Hill, P.R. and Forbes, D.L. 2001: The influence of coastal morphology on shoreface sediment transport under storm-combined flows, Canadian Beaufort Sea. Journal of Coastal Research 17, 507-16.
64. Hesp, P.A. 2001: The Manawatu dunefield: environmental change and human impacts. New Zealand Geographer 57, 41-47.
65. Hesp, P.A. 2002: Foredunes and blowouts: Initiation, geomorphology and dynamics. Geomorphology 48, 245-68.
66. Hesp, P.A. and Pringle, A. 2001: Wind flow and topographic steering within a trough blowout. Journal of Coastal Research 34, 597-601.
67. Hesp, P.A., Shepherd, M.J. and Parnell, K. 1999: Coastal geomorphology in New Zealand, 1989-99. Progress in Physical Geography 23, 501-24.
68. Hicks, D.M., Ovenden, R., Walsh, J., Green, M.O., Smith, R.K. and Swales, A. 2002: Sand volume change and cross-shore sand transfer, Mangawhai Beach, New Zealand. Journal of Coastal Research 18, 760-75.
69. Hinton, A.C. 1997: Tidal changes. Progress in Physical Geography 21, 425-33.
70. Hinton, A.C. 1998: Tidal changes. Progress in Physical Geography 22, 282-94.
71. Horn, D.P. 1997: Beach research in the 1990s. Progress in Physical Geography 21, 454-70.
72. Horn, D.P. 1999: Synergy and co-operation: collaborative coastal research projects. Progress in Physical Geography 23, 115-33.
73. Horn, D.P. 2002: Mesoscale beach processes. Progress in Physical Geography 26, 271-89.
74. Huang, W., Sun, H., Nnaji, S. and Jones, W.K. 2002: Tidal hydrodynamics in a multiple-inlet estuary: Apalachicola Bay, Florida. Journal of Coastal Research 18, 674-84.
75. Jackson, N.L., Nordstrom, K.F., Eliot, I. and Masselink, G. 2002: 'Low energy' sandy beaches in marine and estuarine environments: a review. Geomorphology 48, 147-62.
76. Jena, B.K., Chandramohan, P. and Kumar, V.S. 2001: Longshore transport based on directional waves along North Tamilnadu coast, India. Journal of Coastal Research 17, 322-27.
77. Jennings, R. and Shulmeister, J. 2002: A field based classification scheme for gravel beaches. Marine Geology 186, 211-28.
78. Keating, B.H. and Helsley, C.E. 2002: The ancient shorelines of Lanai, Hawaii, revisited. Sedimentary Geology 150, 3-15.
79. Kench, P.S. 1997: Contemporary sedimentation in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands, Indian Ocean: interpretation using settling velocity analysis. Sedimentary Geology 114, 109-30.
80. Kench, P.S. 1998a: A currents of removal approach for interpreting carbonate sedimentary processes. Marine Geology 145, 197-223.
81. Kench, P.S. 1998b: Physical processes in an Indian Ocean atoll. Coral Reefs 17, 155-68.
82. Kench, P.S. 1998c: Physical controls on development of lagoon sand deposits and lagoon infilling in an Indian Ocean atoll. Journal of Coastal Research 14, 1014-24.
83. Kench, P.S. 1999: The geomorphology of Australian estuaries: review and prospects. Australian Journal of Ecology 24, 367-80.
84. Kench, P.S. and Cowell, P.J. 2001: The morphological response of atoll islands to sea-level rise. Part 2: application of the modified shoreface translation model. Journal of Coastal Reseach 34, 645-56.
85. Kennedy, D.M. 2003: Surface lagoonal sediments on Lord Howe Island, Tasman Sea. Journal of Coastal Research 19, 57-63.
86. Kennedy, D.M. and Woodroffe, C.D. 2000: Holocene lagoonal sedimentation at the latitudinal limits of reef growth, Lord Howe Island, Tasman Sea. Marine Geology 169, 287-304.
87. Kennedy, D.M. 2002: Fringing reef growth and morphology: a review. Earth-Science Reviews 57, 255-77.
88. Komar, P.D. 1998: Beach processes and sedimentation. (2nd edition) Englewood Cliffs NJ: Prentice Hall.
89. Kroon, A. and Masselink, G. 2002: Morphodynamics of intertidal bar morphology on a macrotidal beach under low-energy wave conditions, North Lincolnshire, England. Marine Geology 190, 591-608.
90. Kumar, V.S., Anand, N.M., Chandramohan, P. and Naik, G.N. 2003: Longshore sediment transport rate - measurement and estimation, central west coast of India. Coastal Engineering 48, 95-109.
91. Lario, J., Zazo, C., Plater, A.J., Goy, J.L., Dabrio, C.J., Borja, F., Sierro, F.J. and Luque, L. 2001: Particle size and magnetic properties of Holocene estuarine deposits from the Donana National Park (SW Iberia): evidence of gradual and abrupt coastal sedimentation. Zeitschrift für Geomorphologie 45, 33-54.
92. Larson, M., Capobianco, M. and Hanson, H. 2000: Relationship between beach profiles and waves at Duck, North Carolina, determined by canonical correlation analysis. Marine Geology 163, 275-88.
93. Lee, C.E., Kim, M.H. and Edge, B.L. 1999: Generation of nearshore bars by multi-domain hybrid numerical model. Journal of Coastal Research 15, 892-901.
94. Lee, E.M., Hall, J.W. and Meadowcroft, I.C. 2001: Coastal cliff recession: The use of probabilistic prediction methods. Geomorphology 40, 253-69.
95. Levoy, F., Anthony, E., Barusseau, J., Howa, H. and Tessier, B. 1998: Morphodynamics of a macrotidal ridge and runnel beach. Comptes Rendus de l'Academie des Sciences - Series IIA - Earth and Planetary Science 327, 811-18.
96. Levoy, F., Anthony, E.J., Monfort, O. and Larsonneur, C. 2000: the morphodynamics of megatidal beaches in Normandy, France. Marine Geology 171, 39-59.
97. Levoy, F., Monfort, O. and Larsonneur, C. 2001: Hydrodynamic variability on megatidal beaches, Normandy, France. Continental Shelf Research 21, 563-86.
98. Lippmann, T.C., Herbers, T.H.C. and Thornton, E.B. 1999: Gravity and shear wave contributions to nearshore infragravity motions. Journal of Physical Oceanography 29, 231-39.
99. Malvarez, G.C. and Cooper, J.A.G. 2000: A whole surf zone modelling approach as an aid to investigation of nearshore and coastal morpho-dynamics. Journal of Coastal Research 16, 800-15.
100. Mason, T. and Coates, T.T. 2001: Sediment transport processes on mixed beaches: a review for shoreline management. Journal of Coastal Research 17, 645-57.
101. Masselink, G. and Hughes, M.G. 2003: Introduction to coastal processes and geomorphology. London: Oxford University Press.
102. Masselink, G. and Li, L. 2001: The role of swash infiltration in determining the beachface gradient: a numerical study. Marine Geology 176, 139-56.
103. Masselink, G. and Pattiaratchi, C.B. 2001a: Seasonal changes in beach morphology along the sheltered coastline of Perth, Western Australia. Marine Geology 172, 243-63.
104. Masselink, G. 2001b: Characteristics of the sea breeze system in Perth, Western Australia, and its effect on the nearshore wave climate. Journal of Coastal Research 17, 173-87.
105. Mastronuzzi, G. and Sanso, P. 2002: Holocene coastal dune development and environmental changes in Apulia (southern Italy). Sedimentary Geology 150, 139-52.
106. Miles, J.R., Russell, P.E., Ruessink, B.G. and Huntley, D.A. 2002: Field observations of the effect of shear waves on sediment suspension and transport. Continental Shelf Research 22, 657-81.
107. Moore, L.J. and Griggs, G.B. 2002: Long-term cliff retreat and erosion hotspots along the central shores of the Monterey Bay national marine sanctuary. Marine Geology 181, 265-83.
108. Moore, L.J., Sullivan, C. and Aubrey, D.G. 2003: Interannual evolution of multiple longshore sand bars in a mesotidal environment, Truro, Massachusetts, USA. Marine Geology 196, 127-44.
109. Murillo de Nava, J.M. and Gorsline, D.S. 2000: Holocene and modern dune morphology for the Magdalena coastal plain and islands, Baja California Sur, Mexico. Journal of Coastal Research 16, 915-25.
110. Murray, A.B. and Reydellet, G. 2001: A rip current model based on a hypothesized wave/current interaction. Journal of Coastal Research 17, 517-30.
111. Murray, A.B., LeBars, M. and Guillon, C. 2003: Tests of a new hypothesis for non-bathymetrically driven rip currents. Journal of Coastal Research 19, 269-77
112. Murray, J.M.H., Meadows, A. and Meadows, P.S. 2002: Biogeomorphological implications of microscale interactions between sediment geotechnics and marine benthos: a review. Geomorphology 47, 15-30.
113. Murray-Wallace, C.V., Banerjee, D., Bourman, R.P., Olley, J.M. and Brooke, B.P. 2002: Optically stimulated luminescence dating of Holocene relict foredunes, Guichen Bay, South Australia. Quaternary Science Reviews 21, 1077-86.
114. Musila, W.M., Kinyamario, J.I. and Jungerius, P.D. 2001: Vegetation dynamics of coastal sand dunes near Malindi, Kenya. African Journal of Ecology 39, 170-77.
115. Nichol, S.L. 2002: Morphology, stratigraphy and origin of last interglacial beach ridges at Bream Bay, New Zealand. Journal of Coastal Research 18, 149-59.
116. Noormets, R., Felton, E.A. and Crook, K.A.W. 2002: Sedimentology of rocky shorelines: 2; shoreline megaclasts on the north shore of Oahu, Hawaii - origins and history. Sedimentary Geology 150, 31-45.
117. Nordstrom, K.F. 2000: Beaches and dunes of developed coasts. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
118. Nott, J. 1997: Extremely high-energy wave deposits inside the Great Barrier Reef, Australia: determining the cause - tsunami or tropical cyclone. Marine Geology 141, 193-207.
119. Ogston, A.S. and Sternberg, R.W. 2002: Effect of wave breaking on sediment eddy diffusivity, suspended-sediment and longshore sediment flux profiles in the surf zone. Continental Shelf Research 22, 633-55.
120. Oltman-Shay, J., Howd, P.A. and Birkemeier, W.A. 1989: Shear instabilities of the mean longshore current: 2. Field observations. Journal of Geophysical Research 94, 18031-42.
121. Orford, J.D., Wilson, P., Wintle, A.G., Knight, J. and Braley, S. 2000: Holocene coastal dune initiation in Northumberland and Norfolk, eastern UK: Climate and sea level changes as possible forcing agents for dune initiation. Geological Society Special Publication 166, 197-217.
122. Orford, J.D., Murdy, J.M. and Wintle, A.G. 2003: Prograded Holocene beach ridges with super-imposed dunes in north-east Ireland: mechanisms and timescales of fine and coarse beach sediment decoupling and deposition. Marine Geology 194, 47-64.
123. Ozkan-Haller, H.T. and Kirby, J.T. 1999: Nonlinear evolution of shear instabilities of the longshore current: a comparison of observations and computations. Journal of Geophysical Research C 104, 25 953-84.
124. Packham, J.R., Randall, R.E., Barnes R.S.K. and Neal, A. 2001: Ecology and geomorphology of coastal shingle. Otley: Westbury Academic and Scientific Publishing.
125. Pilkey, O.H. and Cooper, J.A.G. 2002: Longshore transport volumes: a critical review. Journal of Coastal Research SI 36, 572-80.
126. Pye, K. and Allen, R.L. 2001: Coastal and estuarine environments: sedimentology, geomorphology and geoarchaeology. London: Geological Society.
127. Rasser, M.W. and Riegl, B. 2002: Holocene coral reef rubble and its binding agents. Coral Reefs 21, 57-72.
128. Regnauld, H. and Louboutin, R. 2002: Variability of sediment transport in beach and coastal dune environments, Brittany, France. Sedimentary Geology 150, 17-29.
129. Reinoso, J.C.M. 2001: Sequential pattern in the stabilized dunes of Doñana biological reserve (SW Spain). Journal of Coastal Research 17, 90-94.
130. Reniers, A.J.H.M., Battjes, J.A., Falques, A. and Huntley, D.A. 1997: A laboratory study on the shear instability of longshore currents. Journal of Geophysical Research C 102, 8597-609.
131. Revell, D.L., Komar, P.D. and Sallenger, A.H., Jr 2002: An application of LiDAR to analyses of El Niño erosion in the Netarts littoral cell, Oregon. Journal of Coastal Research 18, 792-801.
132. Roy, P.S., Williams, R.J., Jones, A.R., Yassini, I., Gibbs, P.J., Coates, B., West, R.J., Scanes, P.R., Hudson, J.P. and Nichol, S. 2001: Structure and function of south-east Australian estuaries. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 53, 351-84.
133. Rubin, K.H., Fletcher, C.H., III and Sherman, C. 2000: Fossiliferous Lana'i deposits formed by multiple events rather than a single giant tsunami. Nature 408, 675-81.
134. Ruessink, B.G. 2000: An empirical energetics-based formulation for the cross-shore suspended sediment transport by bound infragravity waves. Journal of Coastal Research 16, 482-93.
135. Ruessink, B.G. and Jeuken, M.C.J.L. 2002: Dunefoot dynamics along the Dutch coast. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 27, 1043-56.
136. Ruessink, B.G. and Terwindt, J.H.J. 2000: The behaviour of nearshore bars on the time scale of years: a conceptual model. Marine Geology 163, 289-302.
137. Ruessink, B.G., Houwman, K.T. and Hoekstra, P. 1998: The systematic contribution of transporting mechanisms to the cross-shore sediment transport in water depths of 3 to 9 m. Marine Geology 152, 295-324.
138. Ruessink, B.G., Van Enckevort, I.M.J., Kingston, K.S. and Davidson, M.A. 2000: Analysis of observed two- and three-dimensional near-shore bar behaviour. Marine Geology 169, 161-83.
139. Sallenger, A.H., Jr, List, J., Hansen, M., Holman, R.A., Manizade, S., Sontag, J., Meredith, A., Morgan, K., Yunkel, J.K., Frederick, E.B., Stockdon, H., Krabill, W.B. and Swift, R.N. 2003: Evaluation of airbone topographic LiDAR for quantifying beach changes. Journal of Coastal Research 19, 125-33.
140. Sallenger, J., Asbury, H., Krabill, W., Brock, J., Swift, R., Manizade, S. and Stockdon, H. 2002: Sea-cliff erosion as a function of beach changes and extreme wave runup during the 1997-1998 El Niño. Marine Geology 187, 279-97.
141. Sanderson, P.G. 2000: A comparison of reef-protected environments in Western Australia: the central west and Ningaloo coasts. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 25, 397-419.
142. Sanderson, P.G. and Eliot, I. 1999: Compartmentalisation of beachface sediments along the southwestern coast of Australia. Marine Geology 162, 145-64.
143. Sanderson, P.G., Eliot, I., Hegge, B. and Maxwell, S. 2000: Regional variation of coastal morphology in southwestern Australia: a synthesis. Geomorphology 34, 73-88.
144. Schoonees, J.S. 2000: Annual variation in the net longshore sediment transport rate. Coastal Engineering 40, 141-60.
145. Schwarzer, K., Diesing, M., Larson, M., Niedermeyer, R.-O., Schumacher, W. and Furmanczyk, K. 2003: Coastline evolution at different time scales - examples from the Pomeranian Bight, Southern Baltic sea. Marine Geology 194, 79-101.
146. Seeliger, U., Cordazzo, C.V., Oliveira, C.P.L. and Seeliger, M. 2000: Long-term changes of coastal foredunes in the southwest Atlantic. Journal of Coastal Research 16, 1068-72.
147. Shand, R.D. 2003: Relationships between episodes of bar switching, cross-shore bar migration and outer bar degeneration at Wanganui, New Zealand. Journal of Coastal Research 19, 157-70.
148. Shand, R.D. and Bailey, D.G. 1999: A review of net offshore bar migration with photographic illustrations from Wanganui, New Zealand. Journal of Coastal Research 15, 365-78.
149. Shand, R.D., Bailey, D.G. and Shepherd, M.J. 2001: Longshore realignment of shore-parallel sand-bars at Wanganui, New Zealand. Marine Geology 179, 147-61.
150. Shanmugam, S., Barnsley, M., Lucas, N., Phipps, P. and Richards, A. 2003: Assessment of remote sensing techniques for habitat mapping in coastal dune ecosystems. Journal of Coastal Research 19, 64-75.
151. Sherman, D.J. and Bauer, B.O. 1993: Coastal geomorphology through the looking glass. Geomorphology 7, 225-49.
152. Short, A.D., editor 1999: Handbook of beach and shoreface morphodynamics. New York: John Wiley and Sons.
153. Short, A.D. and Brander, R.W. 1999: Regional variations in rip density. Journal of Coastal Research 15(3), 813-22.
154. Spencer, T. and Viles, H. 2002: Bioconstruction, bioerosion and disturbance on tropical coasts: coral reefs and rocky limestone shores. Geomorphology 48, 23-50.
155. Stephenson, W. 2001: Shore platform width - a fundamental problem. Zeitschrift für Geomorphologie 45, 511-27.
156. Stephenson, W.J. 2000: Shore platforms: remain a neglected coastal feature. Progress in Physical Geography 24, 311-27.
157. Stephenson, W.J. and Kirk, R.M. 2001: Surface swelling of coastal bedrock on inter-tidal shore platforms, Kaikoura Peninsula, South Island, New Zealand. Geomorphology 41, 5-21.
158. Stockdon, H.F., Sallenger, A.H., List, J.H. and Holman, R.A. 2002: Estimation of shoreline position and change using airbone topographic LiDAR data. Journal of Coastal Research 18, 502-13.
159. Storlazzi, C.D. and Field, M.E. 2000: Sediment distribution and transport along a rocky, embayed coast: Monterey Peninsula and Carmel Bay, California. Marine Geology 170, 289-316.
160. Taylor, M. and Stone, G.W. 1996: Beach-ridges: a review. Journal of Coastal Research 12, 612-21.
161. Trenhaile, A.S. 1997: Coastal dynamics and landforms. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
162. Trenhaile, A.S. 2000: Modelling the development of wave-cut shore platforms. Marine Geology 166, 163-78.
163. Trenhaile, A.S. 2001a: Modelling the effect of late Quaternary interglacial sea levels on wave-cut shore platforms. Marine Geology 172, 205-23.
164. Trenhaile, A.S. 2001b: Modelling the effect of weathering on the evolution and morphology of shore platforms. Journal of Coastal Research 17, 398-406.
165. Trenhaile, A.S. 2001c: Modelling the Quaternary evolution of shore platforms and erosional continental shelves. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 26, 1103-28.
166. Trenhaile, A.S. 2002a: Rock coasts, with particular emphasis on shore platforms. Geomorphology 48, 7-22.
167. Trenhaile, A.S. 2002b: Modelling the development of marine terraces on tectonically mobile rock coasts. Marine Geology 185, 341-61.
168. Tsoar, H. and Blumberg, D.G. 2002: Formation of parabolic dunes from barchan and transverse dunes along Israel's Mediterranean coast. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 27, 1147-61.
169. Uncles, R.J. 2002: Estuarine physical processes research: some recent studies and progress. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 55, 829-56.
170. Van der Wal, D. and Pye, K. 2003: The use of historical bathymetric charts in a GIS to assess morphological change in estuaries. Geographical Journal 169, 21-31.
171. Van Enckevort, I.M.J. and Ruessink, B.G. 2003: Video observations of nearshore bar behaviour. Part 2: alongshore non-uniform variability. Continental Shelf Research 23, 513-32.
172. Van Wellen, E., Chadwick, A.J. and Mason, T. 2000: A review and assessment of longshore sediment transport equations for coarse-grained beaches. Coastal Engineering 40, 243-75.
173. Viles, H.A. 1991: Coastal geomorphology into the 1990s. Progress in Physical Geography 15, 182-92.
174. Voulgaris, G., Workman, M. and Collins, M.B. 1999: Measurement techniques of shingle transport in the nearshore zone. Journal of Coastal Research 15, 1030-39.
175. Wang, P. and Kraus, N.C. 1999: Longshore sediment transport rate measured by short-term impoundment. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 125, 118-26.
176. Wang, P., Kraus, N.C. and Davis, R.A., Jr 1998: Total longshore sediment transport rate in the surf zone: field measurements and empirical predictions. Journal of Coastal Research 14, 269-82.
177. Wang, P., Smith, E.R. and Ebersole, B.A. 2002: Large-scale laboratory measurements of longshore sediment transport under spilling and plunging breakers. Journal of Coastal Research 18, 118-35.
178. Wijnberg, K.M. and Kroon, A. 2002: Barred beaches. Geomorphology 48, 103-20.
179. Wilson, P. 2002: Holocene coastal dune development on the South Erradale Peninsula, Wester Ross, Scotland. Scottish Journal of Geology 38, 5-13.
180. Wilson, P., Wintle, A.G., Orford, J.D., Knight, J. and Braley, S.M. 2001: Late-Holocene (post- 4000 years BP) coastal dune development in Northumberland, Northeast England. Holocene 11, 215-29.
181. Woodroffe, C.D. 2003: Coasts: form, process and evolution. Cambridge Cambridge University Press.
182. Woodroffe, C.D. and Morrison, R.J. 2001: Reef- island accretion and soil development on Makin, Kiribati, central Pacific. Catena 44, 245-61.
183. Woodroffe, C.D., Mclean, R.F., Smithers, S.G. and Lawson, E.M. 1999: Atoll reef-island formation and response to sea-level change: West Island, Cocos (Keeling) Islands. Marine Geology 160, 85-104.
184. Woodroffe, C.D., Kennedy, D.M., Hopley, D., Rasmussen, C.E. and Smithers, S.G. 2000: Holocene reef growth in Torres Strait. Marine Geology 170, 331-46.
185. Woolard, J.W. and Colby, J.D. 2002: Spatial characterization, resolution, and volumetric change of coastal dunes using airbone LiDAR: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina. Geomorphology 48, 269-87.