Breaking waves in the surf and swash zone

Journal of Coastal Research

Volumn 19, Issue 3, 2003, Pages 514-528

  Karambas, Theophanis V ^a   Tozer, Nigel P ^b  

^a ARISTOTLE UNIVERSITY OF THESSALONIKI   (Greece)

^b HR Wallingford   (United Kingdom)

Author keywords

Boussinesq equations; Hydrodynamics; Turbulence model

Indexed keywords

BOUSSINESQ EQUATION; NUMERICAL MODEL; SURF ZONE; TURBULENCE; WAVE BREAKING; WAVE PROPAGATION;

EID: 0042427264     PISSN: 07490208     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: None     Document Type: Article

References (53)

1. BEJI, S. and BATTJES, J.A., 1994. Numerical simulation of nonlinear wave propagation over a bar. Coastal Engineering, 23, 1-16.
2. BRADFORD, S.F., 2000. Numerical simulation of surf zone dynamics. J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 126(1), 1-13.
3. BROCCHINI, M.P.; CHERUBINI, P., and LOVENITTI, L., 1991. An extension of Boussinesq type model to the surf zone. Proceedings 2nd Conference on Computer Modelling in Ocean Engineering, Rotterdam: Balkema, pp. 349-359.
4. Cox, D.T.; KOBAYASHI, N., and OKAYASU, A., 1996. Bottom shear stess in the surf zone, Journal of Geophysical Research, 101(C6), 14337-14348.
5. DEIGAARD, R., 1989. Mathematical modelling of waves in the surf zone. Progress Report 69. Lyngby: ISVA, Technical University of Denmark, pp. 47-59.
6. DINGEMANS, M.W., 1997. Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms: 2. Non-linear wave propagation. Advances Series Ocean Engineering, New York: World Scientific, vol. 13.
7. FLICK, R.E.; GUSA, R.T., and INMAN, D.I., 1981. Elevation and velocity measurements of laboratory shoaling waves. Journal Geophysical Research, 86(C5), 4149-4160.
8. HERRING, J.R., 1979. Subgrid scale modelling-An introduction and overview. Proceedings 1st International Symposium on Turbulent Shear Flows, New York: Springen, Vol. 1, pp. 347-352.
9. JOHNSON, B.D., KOBAYASHI, N., and Cox, D.T., 1996. Formulation and validation of vertically 2-D shallow-water wave model. International Conference on Coastal Engineering 1996 (ASCE, Orlando, Florida), pp. 551-564.
10. KABILING, M.B. and SATO, S., 1993. Two-dimensional non-linear dispersive wave-Current and three-dimensional beach deformation model. Coastal Engineering in Japan, 36(2).
11. KARAMBAS, TH.V.; KRESTENITIS, Y., and KOUTITAS, C., 1990. A numerical solution of Bousinesq equations in the inshore zone. Hydrosoft, 3(1), 34-37.
12. KARAMBAS, TH.V. and KOUTITAS, C., 1992. A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq equations. Coastal Engineering, 18, 1-19.
13. KARAMBAS, TH. V.; SOUTHGATE, H.N., and KOUTITAS, C., 1995. A boussinesq model for inshore zone sediment transport using an energetics approach. Coastal Dynamics 95. Gdansk, Poland.
14. KARAMBAS, TH.V., 1996. Nonlinear wave energy modeling in the surf zone, Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics, 3, 127-134.
15. KARAMBAS, TH. V., 1998. 2DH non-linear dispersive wave modelling and sediment transport in the nearshore zone, International Conference on Coastal Engineering 1998 (ASCE, Copenhagen).
16. KARAMBAS, TH. V., 1999. A unified model for periodic non linear dispersive wave in intermediate and shallow water. Journal of Coastal Research, 15(1), 128-139.
17. KENNEDY, A.B.; CHEN, Q.; KIRBY, J.T., and DALRYMPLE, R.A., 2000. Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup. I:1D. Journal Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 126(1), 39-47.
18. LAUNDER, B.E. and SPALDING, D.B., 1972. Mathematical Models of Turbulence, New York: Academic Press.
19. LIN, P. and LIU, P. L.-F., 1998. A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 359, 239-264.
20. LESLIE, D.C. and QUARINI, 1979. The application of turbulence theRsyklory to the formulation of subgrid modelling procedures. Journa of Fluid Mechanics, 91, 65-91.
21. MADSEN, P.A., 1981. A Model for a Turbulent Bore. Ph.D Thesis. Series paper 28. Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering, Technical University of Denmark, Lyngby.
22. MADSEN, P.A. and SVENDSEN, I.A., 1983. Turbulent bores and hydraulic jumps. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 129, 1-25.
23. MADSEN, P.A.; RUGBJERG, M., and WARREN, I.E., 1988. Subgrid modelling in depth integrated flows. Proceedings 21st ICCEASCE, pp. 505-511.
24. MADSEN, P.A.; MURRAY, R., and SORENSEN, O.R., 1991. A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Coastal Engineering, 15, 371-388.
25. MADSEN, P.A. and SHAFFER, H.A., 1998. Higer-order Boussinesqtype equations for surface gravity waves: derivation and analysis. Philosophical Transactions Royal Society London, 356, 3123-3184.
26. MEI, C. C., 1983. The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. New York: Wiley.
27. NADAOKA, K.; HINO, M., and KOYANO, Y., 1989. Structure of the turbulent flow field under breaking waves in the surf zone. Journal Fluid Mechanics, 204, 359-387.
28. NwOGU, 0., 1993. Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation. Journal Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 119(6), 618-638.
29. PEREGRINE, D.H., 1972. Equations for water waves and the approximation behind them. In: MEYER, R.E. (ed.), Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport, New York: Academic.
30. RAKHA, K.A.; DEIGAARD, R., and BROKER, L, 1997. A phase-resolving cross shore transport model for beach evolution. Coastal Engineering, 31, 231-261.
31. RAKHA, K.A., 1998. A Quasi-3D phase-resolving hydrodynamic and sediment transport model. Coastal Engineering, 34, 277-311.
32. RESCH, F.J.; LEUTHEUSSER, H.J., and COANTIC, M., 1976. Study of the kinetic and dynamic structure of the hydraulic jump. Journal of Hydraulic Research, 14(4), 293-319 (in French).
33. ROELVINK, J.A. and RENIERS, A.J.H.M., 1995. LIP UD Delta Flume experiments. Delft Hydraulics. Data Report H 2130.
34. RON, G.; FLICK, R.E., and GUZA, R.T., 1994. Observations of turbulence in the surf zone. Journal of Geophysical Research, 99(C1), 801-810.
35. SCHAFFER, H.A.; MADSEN, P.A., and DEIGAARD, R., 1993. A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water. Coastal Engineering, 20, 185-202.
36. SCHAFFER, H.A. and MADSEN, P.A., 1995. Further enhancements of Boussinesq-type equations. Coastal Engineering, 26, 1-14.
37. SKOTNER, C. and APELT, C.J., 1999. Application of a Boussinesq model for the computation of breaking waves. Part 1: Development and Verification. Ocean Engineering, 26, 905-925.
38. STIVE, M.J.F., 1984. Energy dissipation in waves breaking on gentle slopes. Coastal Engineering, 8, 99-127.
39. STIVE, M.J.F., 1980. Velocity and pressure field of spilling breakers. Proceedings 17th ICCE (ASCE), 1, 547-566.
40. STIVE, M.J.F., 1983. Two-dimensional breaking of waves on a beach, Report, DELFT Hydraulics Laboratory, M 1585.
41. STIVE, M.J.F. and WIND, H.G., 1986. Cross-shore mean flow in the surf zone. Coastal Engineering, 10, 325-340.
42. SVENDSEN, I.A., 1983. Stesses near the free surface of a turbulent roller. Progress Report 58. Institute Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering, Technical University Denmark, pp. 5-17.
43. SVENDSEN, I.A. and MADSEN, P.A., 1984. A turbulent bore on a beach. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 148, 73-96.
44. SVENDSEN, I.A., 1984. Wave heights and setup in a surf zone. Coastal Engineering 8, 303-329.
45. SVENDSEN, I.A., 1987. Analysis of surf zone turbulence. Journal of Geophysical Research, 92(C5), 5115-5124.
46. SVENDSEN, I.A.; SCHAFFER, H.A., and HANSEN, J.B., 1987. The interaction between the undertow and the boundary layer flow on a beach. Journal of Geophysical Research, 92(C), 11845-11856.
47. SVENDSEN I.A.; KE, Tu, and VEERAMONY, J., 1996. A Boussinesq breaking wave model with vorticity. 25th ICCE, pp. 1192-1204.
48. SYNOLAKIS, C.E., 1987. The runup of solitary waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 185, 523-545.
49. VEERAMONY, J., and SVENDSEN, I.A., 2000. The flow in surf-zone waves. Coastal Engineering, 39, 93-122.
50. WEI, G.; KIRBY, J.T.; GRILLI, S.T., and SUBRAMANYA, R., 1995. A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves: Part I. Highly nonlinear unsteady waves. Journal Fluid Mechanics, 294, 71-92.
51. WITTING, J.M., 1984. A unified model for the evolution of nonlinear water waves. Journal Computer Physics, 56, 203-236.
52. ZELT, J.A., 1991. The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves. Coastal Engineering, 15, 205-246.
53. Zou, Z.L., 1999. Higher order Boussinesq equations. Ocean Engineering, 26, 767-792.