The physicochemical basis of perfume performance in consumer products

Chimia

Volumn 55, Issue 5, 2001, Pages 406-412

  Stora, Thierry ^a   Escher, Sina ^a   Morris, Anthony ^a  

^a Analysis and Perception Department   (Switzerland)

Author keywords

Dynamic headspace; Evaporation kinetics; LogP(o w); Perfumery; Substantivity

Indexed keywords

EID: 0040923820     PISSN: 00094293     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: None     Document Type: Article

References (42)

1. L. Appell, American Perfumer and Cosmetics 1964, 79 (1), 25; 1964, 79 (2), 43; 1964, 79 (5), 29; 1964, 79 (11), 25; 1967, 82 (11), 35; 1968, 83 (11), 37; 1969, 84 (2), 53; 1969,84 (3), 45; 1969, 84 (8), 41; 1970, 85 (10), 49.
2. L. Appell, American Perfumer and Cosmetics 1964, 79 (1), 25; 1964, 79 (2), 43; 1964, 79 (5), 29; 1964, 79 (11), 25; 1967, 82 (11), 35; 1968, 83 (11), 37; 1969, 84 (2), 53; 1969,84 (3), 45; 1969, 84 (8), 41; 1970, 85 (10), 49.
3. L. Appell, American Perfumer and Cosmetics 1964, 79 (1), 25; 1964, 79 (2), 43; 1964, 79 (5), 29; 1964, 79 (11), 25; 1967, 82 (11), 35; 1968, 83 (11), 37; 1969, 84 (2), 53; 1969,84 (3), 45; 1969, 84 (8), 41; 1970, 85 (10), 49.
4. L. Appell, American Perfumer and Cosmetics 1964, 79 (1), 25; 1964, 79 (2), 43; 1964, 79 (5), 29; 1964, 79 (11), 25; 1967, 82 (11), 35; 1968, 83 (11), 37; 1969, 84 (2), 53; 1969,84 (3), 45; 1969, 84 (8), 41; 1970, 85 (10), 49.
5. L. Appell, American Perfumer and Cosmetics 1964, 79 (1), 25; 1964, 79 (2), 43; 1964, 79 (5), 29; 1964, 79 (11), 25; 1967, 82 (11), 35; 1968, 83 (11), 37; 1969, 84 (2), 53; 1969,84 (3), 45; 1969, 84 (8), 41; 1970, 85 (10), 49.
6. L. Appell, American Perfumer and Cosmetics 1964, 79 (1), 25; 1964, 79 (2), 43; 1964, 79 (5), 29; 1964, 79 (11), 25; 1967, 82 (11), 35; 1968, 83 (11), 37; 1969, 84 (2), 53; 1969,84 (3), 45; 1969, 84 (8), 41; 1970, 85 (10), 49.
7. L. Appell, American Perfumer and Cosmetics 1964, 79 (1), 25; 1964, 79 (2), 43; 1964, 79 (5), 29; 1964, 79 (11), 25; 1967, 82 (11), 35; 1968, 83 (11), 37; 1969, 84 (2), 53; 1969,84 (3), 45; 1969, 84 (8), 41; 1970, 85 (10), 49.
8. L. Appell, American Perfumer and Cosmetics 1964, 79 (1), 25; 1964, 79 (2), 43; 1964, 79 (5), 29; 1964, 79 (11), 25; 1967, 82 (11), 35; 1968, 83 (11), 37; 1969, 84 (2), 53; 1969,84 (3), 45; 1969, 84 (8), 41; 1970, 85 (10), 49.
9. L. Appell, American Perfumer and Cosmetics 1964, 79 (1), 25; 1964, 79 (2), 43; 1964, 79 (5), 29; 1964, 79 (11), 25; 1967, 82 (11), 35; 1968, 83 (11), 37; 1969, 84 (2), 53; 1969,84 (3), 45; 1969, 84 (8), 41; 1970, 85 (10), 49.
10. L. Appell, American Perfumer and Cosmetics 1964, 79 (1), 25; 1964, 79 (2), 43; 1964, 79 (5), 29; 1964, 79 (11), 25; 1967, 82 (11), 35; 1968, 83 (11), 37; 1969, 84 (2), 53; 1969,84 (3), 45; 1969, 84 (8), 41; 1970, 85 (10), 49.
11. W. Sturm, G. Mansfeld, Tenside, Deterg. 1978, 15, 181.
12. J. Jellinek, H.-U. Warnecke, SOFW J. 1976,102, 215.
13. J.M. Blakeway, M. Seu-Salerno, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 1983, 5 , 15.
14. J.M, Blakeway, Cosmet. Toiletries 1984, 99, 45; and ref. 1 cited therein.
15. F. Etzweiler, N. Neuner-Jehle, E. Senn, SOFW J. 1980, 106,419.
16. N. Neuner-Jehle, F. Etzweiler, in 'Perfumes: Art, Science and Technology', Eds. P.M. Muller, D. Lamparsky, Else-vier, London, New York, 1991, p. 153.
17. P.M. Müller, N. Neuner-Jehle, F. Etzweiler, Perfum. Flavor. 1993, 8 (4), 45.
18. A. Baydar, T. McGee, K.L. Purzycki, Perfum. Flavor. 1995, 20 (5), 45.
19. A. Baydar, B. Bouret, A. Charles, CTMS 1994 (June/July), 25.
20. X. Ormancey, S. Puech, D. Coutiere, Per-fum. Flavor. 2000, 25 (1), 24.
21. S.D. Escher, E. Oliveros, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 1994, 71, 31.
22. e.g. A.J. Leo, Chem. Rev. (Washington D.C.) 1993, 93, 1281.
23. e.g. D.R. Bacon, T. Trinh (The Procter & Gamble Company, USA), US 5500138, 1996; P.A. Cunningham, M. Green, A.C. McRitchie (The Procter & Gamble Company, USA), WO 99/65458, 1999; K.D. Perring, C.F. Clements, A.P. Macmaster (Quest International B.V., NL), WO 99/ 18926, 1999; E.P. Guenin, K.A. Trotzinka, L.C. Smith, J.M. Teffenhart, K.J. Mc Dermott, S.D. Shefer, A. Shefer (International Flavors & Fragrances Inc., USA), US 6156826, 2000.
24. e.g. D.R. Bacon, T. Trinh (The Procter & Gamble Company, USA), US 5500138, 1996; P.A. Cunningham, M. Green, A.C. McRitchie (The Procter & Gamble Company, USA), WO 99/65458, 1999; K.D. Perring, C.F. Clements, A.P. Macmaster (Quest International B.V., NL), WO 99/ 18926, 1999; E.P. Guenin, K.A. Trotzinka, L.C. Smith, J.M. Teffenhart, K.J. Mc Dermott, S.D. Shefer, A. Shefer (International Flavors & Fragrances Inc., USA), US 6156826, 2000.
25. e.g. D.R. Bacon, T. Trinh (The Procter & Gamble Company, USA), US 5500138, 1996; P.A. Cunningham, M. Green, A.C. McRitchie (The Procter & Gamble Company, USA), WO 99/65458, 1999; K.D. Perring, C.F. Clements, A.P. Macmaster (Quest International B.V., NL), WO 99/ 18926, 1999; E.P. Guenin, K.A. Trotzinka, L.C. Smith, J.M. Teffenhart, K.J. Mc Dermott, S.D. Shefer, A. Shefer (International Flavors & Fragrances Inc., USA), US 6156826, 2000.
26. e.g. D.R. Bacon, T. Trinh (The Procter & Gamble Company, USA), US 5500138, 1996; P.A. Cunningham, M. Green, A.C. McRitchie (The Procter & Gamble Company, USA), WO 99/65458, 1999; K.D. Perring, C.F. Clements, A.P. Macmaster (Quest International B.V., NL), WO 99/ 18926, 1999; E.P. Guenin, K.A. Trotzinka, L.C. Smith, J.M. Teffenhart, K.J. Mc Dermott, S.D. Shefer, A. Shefer (International Flavors & Fragrances Inc., USA), US 6156826, 2000.
27. J.M. Behan, C.F. Clements, D.C. Hooper, J.R. Martin, J.B. Melville, K.D. Perring (Lever Brothers Company, USA), US 5554588, 1996, priority 08.11.1991-EP-91310360.
28. J.M. Ladd, A.E. Nicholson, R.J. Merz, T.J. Wierenga (The Procter & Gamble Company, USA), EP 332260 B1, 1996, priority 07.03.1988-US-164678.
29. K.D. Perring, in 'Chem. Fragrances', Eds. D. Oybus, C. Sell, Royal Society of Chemistry, Cambridge, UK, 1999, p. 188.
30. The term substantivity is commonly used in the context of dyes where it stands for the affinity of a dye for a given substrate through attractive interactions.
31. R.B. Bird, W.E. Stewart, E.N. Lightfoot, Transport Phenomena', John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1960, part III.
32. A. Jacques, C.J. Schramm, Jr., Surfactant Sci. Ser. 1997, 67, 433.
33. Cationic esterquat surfactant (Rewoquat®) was melted at 60 °C and dispersed in hot tap water under stirring to a final concentration of 15 wt%. The surfactant aggregate size distribution of the resulting base ranged from 0.5 μm to 5 μm. The viscosity was 60 mPa s. This laboratory sample is representative of a threefold concentrated commercial softener type. The model perfume (1 wt%) was mixed with the softener base at room temperature and the mixture was sonicated for 15 min. The perfumed product was stored for one day before use.
34. -1) at 25 °C was used throughout the procedure. Prior to use, the conditioned cotton squares were soaked for at least 30 min in tap water and centrifuged, then immersed in a dispersion of 0.35 g of softener in 240 g of water and mechanically stirred for 6 min. The amount of water remaining on the fabric after centrifugation was 65% of the dry fabric weight. These figures correspond to a standard European washing machine (Miele WS 5425) with 2 kg of fabric loading and 40 g of threefold concentrated fabric softener per 27 I of water in the last rinse cycle. Softener surfactant deposition was determined by fluorescence spectres-copy. A lipid membrane dye, octadecyl rhodamine B chloride (Molecular Probe, Eugene, USA) was incorporated in the surfactant aggregates at a concentration of 1 μmol. The deposition level (85%) was determined by the change of fluorescence intensity (exc/em 556/582 nm) before and after the above described procedure. Observing the fluorescence pattern on cotton further assessed the homogeneity. In contrast with the large variations observed in washing machines, it was found that uniform softener deposition was obtained.
35. Determination of these concentrations was effected by solid phase extraction of the rinse water followed by GC-MS analysis. The values were determined with an absolute variation of 2%.
36. s-1. The textile was considered to be dry when the relative humidity of the air at the outlet was 20% (= relative humidity at the inlet, see Fig. 3).
37. C. Vuilleumier, I. Flament, P. Sauvegrain, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 1995, 17, 61. The experimental gaseous concentrations were determined with a precision of 10% to 25%.
38. This simple model is based on the hypothesis that the limiting factor of evaporation is the transport of the vapour in air and adequately describes our experimental data on cotton. However, more refined models might be required for fibres other than cotton.
39. By replacing water by an odorant in the model introduced in Fig. 3 (insert), the volatility of the odorant would correspond to the gaseous concentration of water at 100% relative humidity. The remaining part of the isotherm is determined by the interaction of the odorant with the treated cotton fabric and is not linked to the vola-tility.
40. L.F. Wünsche, C. Vuilleumier, U. Keller, MP. Byfield, I.P. May, MJ. Kearney, in 'Proceedings of the 13th International Congress of Flavours, Fragrances, and Essential Oils', Istanbul, October 15-19, 1995, Vol. 3, p. 295; AREP Publications, Istanbul 1995.
41. The scale of perceived odour intensities ranges from O (no perception) to 5 (very strong). Intensity 1 corresponds to very weak perception and intensity 2 to weak perception [28].
42. J. Villermaux, 'Génie de la réaction chimique', Technique & Documentation, Paris, 1982, chapter 6, p. 147.