'Fighting the corsetless evil': Shaping corsets and culture, 1900-1930

Journal of Social History

Volumn 33, Issue 2, 1999, Pages 355-384

  Fields, Jill ^a,b  

^a CALIFORNIA STATE UNIVERSITY   (United States)

^b Department of History ^*  (United States)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

EID: 0040716094     PISSN: 00224529     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1353/jsh.1999.0053     Document Type: Article

References (168)

1. G.B. Pulfer, "Fighting the Corsetless Evil," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, p. 30.
2. Examples of trade journal articles sparked by panic regarding corsetlessness include "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25; "Flappers Are Responsible for The Corsetless Craze," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1922, p. 33; "Eminent Surgeons Endorse the Corset," Corsets & Lingerie, December 1921, pp. 32-35.
3. Examples of trade journal articles sparked by panic regarding corsetlessness include "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25; "Flappers Are Responsible for The Corsetless Craze," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1922, p. 33; "Eminent Surgeons Endorse the Corset," Corsets & Lingerie, December 1921, pp. 32-35.
4. Examples of trade journal articles sparked by panic regarding corsetlessness include "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25; "Flappers Are Responsible for The Corsetless Craze," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1922, p. 33; "Eminent Surgeons Endorse the Corset," Corsets & Lingerie, December 1921, pp. 32-35.
5. Helene E. Roberts, "The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman," Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society (Spring 1977): 564-569; David Kunzle, "Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' " Signs (Spring 1977): 570-579; Helene Roberts, "Reply to David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's The Exquisite Slave,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 518-519; Joanna Russ, "Comment on Helene Roberts 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' and David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 520-521; David Kunzle, Fashion and Fetishism: A Social History of the Corset, Tight-Lacing and Other Forms of Body-Sculpture in the West (New Jersey, 1982); Lois Banner, American Beaut (Chicago, 1983); Valerie Steele, Fashion and Eroticism: Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Jazz Age (New York, 1985).
6. Helene E. Roberts, "The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman," Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society (Spring 1977): 564-569; David Kunzle, "Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' " Signs (Spring 1977): 570-579; Helene Roberts, "Reply to David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's The Exquisite Slave,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 518-519; Joanna Russ, "Comment on Helene Roberts 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' and David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 520-521; David Kunzle, Fashion and Fetishism: A Social History of the Corset, Tight-Lacing and Other Forms of Body-Sculpture in the West (New Jersey, 1982); Lois Banner, American Beaut (Chicago, 1983); Valerie Steele, Fashion and Eroticism: Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Jazz Age (New York, 1985).
7. Helene E. Roberts, "The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman," Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society (Spring 1977): 564-569; David Kunzle, "Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' " Signs (Spring 1977): 570-579; Helene Roberts, "Reply to David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's The Exquisite Slave,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 518-519; Joanna Russ, "Comment on Helene Roberts 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' and David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 520-521; David Kunzle, Fashion and Fetishism: A Social History of the Corset, Tight-Lacing and Other Forms of Body-Sculpture in the West (New Jersey, 1982); Lois Banner, American Beaut (Chicago, 1983); Valerie Steele, Fashion and Eroticism: Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Jazz Age (New York, 1985).
8. Helene E. Roberts, "The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman," Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society (Spring 1977): 564-569; David Kunzle, "Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' " Signs (Spring 1977): 570-579; Helene Roberts, "Reply to David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's The Exquisite Slave,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 518-519; Joanna Russ, "Comment on Helene Roberts 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' and David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 520-521; David Kunzle, Fashion and Fetishism: A Social History of the Corset, Tight-Lacing and Other Forms of Body-Sculpture in the West (New Jersey, 1982); Lois Banner, American Beaut (Chicago, 1983); Valerie Steele, Fashion and Eroticism: Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Jazz Age (New York, 1985).
9. Helene E. Roberts, "The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman," Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society (Spring 1977): 564-569; David Kunzle, "Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' " Signs (Spring 1977): 570-579; Helene Roberts, "Reply to David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's The Exquisite Slave,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 518-519; Joanna Russ, "Comment on Helene Roberts 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' and David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 520-521; David Kunzle, Fashion and Fetishism: A Social History of the Corset, Tight-Lacing and Other Forms of Body-Sculpture in the West (New Jersey, 1982); Lois Banner, American Beaut (Chicago, 1983); Valerie Steele, Fashion and Eroticism: Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Jazz Age (New York, 1985).
10. Helene E. Roberts, "The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman," Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society (Spring 1977): 564-569; David Kunzle, "Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' " Signs (Spring 1977): 570-579; Helene Roberts, "Reply to David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's The Exquisite Slave,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 518-519; Joanna Russ, "Comment on Helene Roberts 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' and David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 520-521; David Kunzle, Fashion and Fetishism: A Social History of the Corset, Tight-Lacing and Other Forms of Body-Sculpture in the West (New Jersey, 1982); Lois Banner, American Beaut (Chicago, 1983); Valerie Steele, Fashion and Eroticism: Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Jazz Age (New York, 1985).
11. Helene E. Roberts, "The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman," Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society (Spring 1977): 564-569; David Kunzle, "Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' " Signs (Spring 1977): 570-579; Helene Roberts, "Reply to David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helene E. Roberts's The Exquisite Slave,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 518-519; Joanna Russ, "Comment on Helene Roberts 'The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,' and David Kunzle's 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism,' " Signs (Winter 1977): 520-521; David Kunzle, Fashion and Fetishism: A Social History of the Corset, Tight-Lacing and Other Forms of Body-Sculpture in the West (New Jersey, 1982); Lois Banner, American Beaut (Chicago, 1983); Valerie Steele, Fashion and Eroticism: Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Jazz Age (New York, 1985).
12. The concept of cultural hegemony is integral to analysis of culture as contested terrain. As the meaning of hegemony is also contested, please see Antonio Gramsci, Selections from the Prison Notebooks, translated by Quintin Hoare and Geoffrey Nowell Smith (New York, 1971), especially p. 12, and Raymond Williams, Marxism and Literature (Oxford, 1977), p. 110 for interpretations which inform the analysis presented here. See also more recent debates among cultural historians such as T. Jackson Lears, "The Concept of Cultural Hegemony: Problems and Possibilities," The American Historical Review (June 1985): 567-593, and George Lipsitz, "The Struggle for Hegemony," The Journal of American History (June 1988): 146-150. In regard to culture and clothing, costume historians generally, and feminist critics particularly, have long understood the power of fashion to regulate and signify. However, the sensibility expressed here regarding fashion as a regulatory practice draws upon Michel Foucault, The History of Sexuality, Volume 1 : An Introduction, translated by Robert Hurley (New York), 1978 and also upon Judith Butler's analysis of Foucault in Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity (New York, 1990). This article is in some sense a response to Butler's call for a "critical inquiry that traces the regulatory practices within which bodily contours are constructed [that] constitutes precisely the genealogy of 'the body' in its discreteness that might further radicalize Foucault's theory," p. 133. For semiotic analysis of fashion as a system of signification see Roland Barthes, The Fashion System, translated by Matthew Ward and Richard Howard (New York, 1983). For an excellent discussion of many of the major twentieth-century works of fashion history and theory see Fred Davis, Fashion, Culture and Identity (Chicago, 1992).
13. The concept of cultural hegemony is integral to analysis of culture as contested terrain. As the meaning of hegemony is also contested, please see Antonio Gramsci, Selections from the Prison Notebooks, translated by Quintin Hoare and Geoffrey Nowell Smith (New York, 1971), especially p. 12, and Raymond Williams, Marxism and Literature (Oxford, 1977), p. 110 for interpretations which inform the analysis presented here. See also more recent debates among cultural historians such as T. Jackson Lears, "The Concept of Cultural Hegemony: Problems and Possibilities," The American Historical Review (June 1985): 567-593, and George Lipsitz, "The Struggle for Hegemony," The Journal of American History (June 1988): 146-150. In regard to culture and clothing, costume historians generally, and feminist critics particularly, have long understood the power of fashion to regulate and signify. However, the sensibility expressed here regarding fashion as a regulatory practice draws upon Michel Foucault, The History of Sexuality, Volume 1 : An Introduction, translated by Robert Hurley (New York), 1978 and also upon Judith Butler's analysis of Foucault in Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity (New York, 1990). This article is in some sense a response to Butler's call for a "critical inquiry that traces the regulatory practices within which bodily contours are constructed [that] constitutes precisely the genealogy of 'the body' in its discreteness that might further radicalize Foucault's theory," p. 133. For semiotic analysis of fashion as a system of signification see Roland Barthes, The Fashion System, translated by Matthew Ward and Richard Howard (New York, 1983). For an excellent discussion of many of the major twentieth-century works of fashion history and theory see Fred Davis, Fashion, Culture and Identity (Chicago, 1992).
14. The concept of cultural hegemony is integral to analysis of culture as contested terrain. As the meaning of hegemony is also contested, please see Antonio Gramsci, Selections from the Prison Notebooks, translated by Quintin Hoare and Geoffrey Nowell Smith (New York, 1971), especially p. 12, and Raymond Williams, Marxism and Literature (Oxford, 1977), p. 110 for interpretations which inform the analysis presented here. See also more recent debates among cultural historians such as T. Jackson Lears, "The Concept of Cultural Hegemony: Problems and Possibilities," The American Historical Review (June 1985): 567-593, and George Lipsitz, "The Struggle for Hegemony," The Journal of American History (June 1988): 146-150. In regard to culture and clothing, costume historians generally, and feminist critics particularly, have long understood the power of fashion to regulate and signify. However, the sensibility expressed here regarding fashion as a regulatory practice draws upon Michel Foucault, The History of Sexuality, Volume 1 : An Introduction, translated by Robert Hurley (New York), 1978 and also upon Judith Butler's analysis of Foucault in Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity (New York, 1990). This article is in some sense a response to Butler's call for a "critical inquiry that traces the regulatory practices within which bodily contours are constructed [that] constitutes precisely the genealogy of 'the body' in its discreteness that might further radicalize Foucault's theory," p. 133. For semiotic analysis of fashion as a system of signification see Roland Barthes, The Fashion System, translated by Matthew Ward and Richard Howard (New York, 1983). For an excellent discussion of many of the major twentieth-century works of fashion history and theory see Fred Davis, Fashion, Culture and Identity (Chicago, 1992).
15. The concept of cultural hegemony is integral to analysis of culture as contested terrain. As the meaning of hegemony is also contested, please see Antonio Gramsci, Selections from the Prison Notebooks, translated by Quintin Hoare and Geoffrey Nowell Smith (New York, 1971), especially p. 12, and Raymond Williams, Marxism and Literature (Oxford, 1977), p. 110 for interpretations which inform the analysis presented here. See also more recent debates among cultural historians such as T. Jackson Lears, "The Concept of Cultural Hegemony: Problems and Possibilities," The American Historical Review (June 1985): 567-593, and George Lipsitz, "The Struggle for Hegemony," The Journal of American History (June 1988): 146-150. In regard to culture and clothing, costume historians generally, and feminist critics particularly, have long understood the power of fashion to regulate and signify. However, the sensibility expressed here regarding fashion as a regulatory practice draws upon Michel Foucault, The History of Sexuality, Volume 1 : An Introduction, translated by Robert Hurley (New York), 1978 and also upon Judith Butler's analysis of Foucault in Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity (New York, 1990). This article is in some sense a response to Butler's call for a "critical inquiry that traces the regulatory practices within which bodily contours are constructed [that] constitutes precisely the genealogy of 'the body' in its discreteness that might further radicalize Foucault's theory," p. 133. For semiotic analysis of fashion as a system of signification see Roland Barthes, The Fashion System, translated by Matthew Ward and Richard Howard (New York, 1983). For an excellent discussion of many of the major twentieth-century works of fashion history and theory see Fred Davis, Fashion, Culture and Identity (Chicago, 1992).
16. The concept of cultural hegemony is integral to analysis of culture as contested terrain. As the meaning of hegemony is also contested, please see Antonio Gramsci, Selections from the Prison Notebooks, translated by Quintin Hoare and Geoffrey Nowell Smith (New York, 1971), especially p. 12, and Raymond Williams, Marxism and Literature (Oxford, 1977), p. 110 for interpretations which inform the analysis presented here. See also more recent debates among cultural historians such as T. Jackson Lears, "The Concept of Cultural Hegemony: Problems and Possibilities," The American Historical Review (June 1985): 567-593, and George Lipsitz, "The Struggle for Hegemony," The Journal of American History (June 1988): 146-150. In regard to culture and clothing, costume historians generally, and feminist critics particularly, have long understood the power of fashion to regulate and signify. However, the sensibility expressed here regarding fashion as a regulatory practice draws upon Michel Foucault, The History of Sexuality, Volume 1 : An Introduction, translated by Robert Hurley (New York), 1978 and also upon Judith Butler's analysis of Foucault in Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity (New York, 1990). This article is in some sense a response to Butler's call for a "critical inquiry that traces the regulatory practices within which bodily contours are constructed [that] constitutes precisely the genealogy of 'the body' in its discreteness that might further radicalize Foucault's theory," p. 133. For semiotic analysis of fashion as a system of signification see Roland Barthes, The Fashion System, translated by Matthew Ward and Richard Howard (New York, 1983). For an excellent discussion of many of the major twentieth-century works of fashion history and theory see Fred Davis, Fashion, Culture and Identity (Chicago, 1992).
17. The concept of cultural hegemony is integral to analysis of culture as contested terrain. As the meaning of hegemony is also contested, please see Antonio Gramsci, Selections from the Prison Notebooks, translated by Quintin Hoare and Geoffrey Nowell Smith (New York, 1971), especially p. 12, and Raymond Williams, Marxism and Literature (Oxford, 1977), p. 110 for interpretations which inform the analysis presented here. See also more recent debates among cultural historians such as T. Jackson Lears, "The Concept of Cultural Hegemony: Problems and Possibilities," The American Historical Review (June 1985): 567-593, and George Lipsitz, "The Struggle for Hegemony," The Journal of American History (June 1988): 146-150. In regard to culture and clothing, costume historians generally, and feminist critics particularly, have long understood the power of fashion to regulate and signify. However, the sensibility expressed here regarding fashion as a regulatory practice draws upon Michel Foucault, The History of Sexuality, Volume 1 : An Introduction, translated by Robert Hurley (New York), 1978 and also upon Judith Butler's analysis of Foucault in Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity (New York, 1990). This article is in some sense a response to Butler's call for a "critical inquiry that traces the regulatory practices within which bodily contours are constructed [that] constitutes precisely the genealogy of 'the body' in its discreteness that might further radicalize Foucault's theory," p. 133. For semiotic analysis of fashion as a system of signification see Roland Barthes, The Fashion System, translated by Matthew Ward and Richard Howard (New York, 1983). For an excellent discussion of many of the major twentieth-century works of fashion history and theory see Fred Davis, Fashion, Culture and Identity (Chicago, 1992).
18. The concept of cultural hegemony is integral to analysis of culture as contested terrain. As the meaning of hegemony is also contested, please see Antonio Gramsci, Selections from the Prison Notebooks, translated by Quintin Hoare and Geoffrey Nowell Smith (New York, 1971), especially p. 12, and Raymond Williams, Marxism and Literature (Oxford, 1977), p. 110 for interpretations which inform the analysis presented here. See also more recent debates among cultural historians such as T. Jackson Lears, "The Concept of Cultural Hegemony: Problems and Possibilities," The American Historical Review (June 1985): 567-593, and George Lipsitz, "The Struggle for Hegemony," The Journal of American History (June 1988): 146-150. In regard to culture and clothing, costume historians generally, and feminist critics particularly, have long understood the power of fashion to regulate and signify. However, the sensibility expressed here regarding fashion as a regulatory practice draws upon Michel Foucault, The History of Sexuality, Volume 1 : An Introduction, translated by Robert Hurley (New York), 1978 and also upon Judith Butler's analysis of Foucault in Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity (New York, 1990). This article is in some sense a response to Butler's call for a "critical inquiry that traces the regulatory practices within which bodily contours are constructed [that] constitutes precisely the genealogy of 'the body' in its discreteness that might further radicalize Foucault's theory," p. 133. For semiotic analysis of fashion as a system of signification see Roland Barthes, The Fashion System, translated by Matthew Ward and Richard Howard (New York, 1983). For an excellent discussion of many of the major twentieth-century works of fashion history and theory see Fred Davis, Fashion, Culture and Identity (Chicago, 1992).
19. The concept of cultural hegemony is integral to analysis of culture as contested terrain. As the meaning of hegemony is also contested, please see Antonio Gramsci, Selections from the Prison Notebooks, translated by Quintin Hoare and Geoffrey Nowell Smith (New York, 1971), especially p. 12, and Raymond Williams, Marxism and Literature (Oxford, 1977), p. 110 for interpretations which inform the analysis presented here. See also more recent debates among cultural historians such as T. Jackson Lears, "The Concept of Cultural Hegemony: Problems and Possibilities," The American Historical Review (June 1985): 567-593, and George Lipsitz, "The Struggle for Hegemony," The Journal of American History (June 1988): 146-150. In regard to culture and clothing, costume historians generally, and feminist critics particularly, have long understood the power of fashion to regulate and signify. However, the sensibility expressed here regarding fashion as a regulatory practice draws upon Michel Foucault, The History of Sexuality, Volume 1 : An Introduction, translated by Robert Hurley (New York), 1978 and also upon Judith Butler's analysis of Foucault in Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity (New York, 1990). This article is in some sense a response to Butler's call for a "critical inquiry that traces the regulatory practices within which bodily contours are constructed [that] constitutes precisely the genealogy of 'the body' in its discreteness that might further radicalize Foucault's theory," p. 133. For semiotic analysis of fashion as a system of signification see Roland Barthes, The Fashion System, translated by Matthew Ward and Richard Howard (New York, 1983). For an excellent discussion of many of the major twentieth-century works of fashion history and theory see Fred Davis, Fashion, Culture and Identity (Chicago, 1992).
20. Elizabeth Ewing, Dress and Undress: A History of Women's Underwear (New York, 1978), pp. 110-113.
21. Havelock Ellis, "An Anatomical Vindication of the Straight Front Corset," Current Literature, February 1910, pp. 172-174.
22. "How Prehistoric Woman Solved the Problem Of Her Waist Line," Current Opinion, March, 1914, pp. 201-202.
23. Paul Poiret, My First 50 Years, pp. 72-73.
24. Ewing, pp. 89-91, 93, 108-110; C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington, The History of Underclothes (London, 1981, 1951), pp. 87,114, 125-6; Norah Waugh, Corsets and Crinolines (London, 1954), p. 87. See Peter Wollen, "Out of the Past: Fashion/Orientalism/The Body," in his Raiding the Icebox: Reflections on Twentieth-Century Culture (Bloomington, 1993), pp. 1-34 regarding the influence of both the Russian Ballet and the rational dress movement upon Poiret's designs. Fashion layouts and advertisements, such as "New Low Bust Flexible Model" and "New Supple Figure Corsets," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January 1914, pp. 42-43 and "The Athletic Girl's Experience," Bon Ton Corset advertisement, Vogue, May 1914, p. 93, displayed the more flexible and sports corsets.
25. Ewing, pp. 89-91, 93, 108-110; C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington, The History of Underclothes (London, 1981, 1951), pp. 87,114, 125-6; Norah Waugh, Corsets and Crinolines (London, 1954), p. 87. See Peter Wollen, "Out of the Past: Fashion/Orientalism/The Body," in his Raiding the Icebox: Reflections on Twentieth-Century Culture (Bloomington, 1993), pp. 1-34 regarding the influence of both the Russian Ballet and the rational dress movement upon Poiret's designs. Fashion layouts and advertisements, such as "New Low Bust Flexible Model" and "New Supple Figure Corsets," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January 1914, pp. 42-43 and "The Athletic Girl's Experience," Bon Ton Corset advertisement, Vogue, May 1914, p. 93, displayed the more flexible and sports corsets.
26. Ewing, pp. 89-91, 93, 108-110; C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington, The History of Underclothes (London, 1981, 1951), pp. 87,114, 125-6; Norah Waugh, Corsets and Crinolines (London, 1954), p. 87. See Peter Wollen, "Out of the Past: Fashion/Orientalism/The Body," in his Raiding the Icebox: Reflections on Twentieth-Century Culture (Bloomington, 1993), pp. 1-34 regarding the influence of both the Russian Ballet and the rational dress movement upon Poiret's designs. Fashion layouts and advertisements, such as "New Low Bust Flexible Model" and "New Supple Figure Corsets," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January 1914, pp. 42-43 and "The Athletic Girl's Experience," Bon Ton Corset advertisement, Vogue, May 1914, p. 93, displayed the more flexible and sports corsets.
27. Ewing, pp. 89-91, 93, 108-110; C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington, The History of Underclothes (London, 1981, 1951), pp. 87,114, 125-6; Norah Waugh, Corsets and Crinolines (London, 1954), p. 87. See Peter Wollen, "Out of the Past: Fashion/Orientalism/The Body," in his Raiding the Icebox: Reflections on Twentieth-Century Culture (Bloomington, 1993), pp. 1-34 regarding the influence of both the Russian Ballet and the rational dress movement upon Poiret's designs. Fashion layouts and advertisements, such as "New Low Bust Flexible Model" and "New Supple Figure Corsets," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January 1914, pp. 42-43 and "The Athletic Girl's Experience," Bon Ton Corset advertisement, Vogue, May 1914, p. 93, displayed the more flexible and sports corsets.
28. Ewing, pp. 89-91, 93, 108-110; C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington, The History of Underclothes (London, 1981, 1951), pp. 87,114, 125-6; Norah Waugh, Corsets and Crinolines (London, 1954), p. 87. See Peter Wollen, "Out of the Past: Fashion/Orientalism/The Body," in his Raiding the Icebox: Reflections on Twentieth-Century Culture (Bloomington, 1993), pp. 1-34 regarding the influence of both the Russian Ballet and the rational dress movement upon Poiret's designs. Fashion layouts and advertisements, such as "New Low Bust Flexible Model" and "New Supple Figure Corsets," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January 1914, pp. 42-43 and "The Athletic Girl's Experience," Bon Ton Corset advertisement, Vogue, May 1914, p. 93, displayed the more flexible and sports corsets.
29. Ewing, pp. 89-91, 93, 108-110; C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington, The History of Underclothes (London, 1981, 1951), pp. 87,114, 125-6; Norah Waugh, Corsets and Crinolines (London, 1954), p. 87. See Peter Wollen, "Out of the Past: Fashion/Orientalism/The Body," in his Raiding the Icebox: Reflections on Twentieth-Century Culture (Bloomington, 1993), pp. 1-34 regarding the influence of both the Russian Ballet and the rational dress movement upon Poiret's designs. Fashion layouts and advertisements, such as "New Low Bust Flexible Model" and "New Supple Figure Corsets," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January 1914, pp. 42-43 and "The Athletic Girl's Experience," Bon Ton Corset advertisement, Vogue, May 1914, p. 93, displayed the more flexible and sports corsets.
30. Ewing, p. 120; Mitchel Gray and Mary Kennedy, The Lingerie Book (New York), 1980, p. 15. "A Graceful Dancing Corset," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February 1914, p. 31. Banner, p. 176 offers evidence regarding the emergence of the flapper in the mid-1910s; " Where Efficiency and Economy Meet," Vogue, April 1914, pp. 54-55. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," Vogue, January 1914, p. 58.
31. Ewing, p. 120; Mitchel Gray and Mary Kennedy, The Lingerie Book (New York), 1980, p. 15. "A Graceful Dancing Corset," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February 1914, p. 31. Banner, p. 176 offers evidence regarding the emergence of the flapper in the mid-1910s; " Where Efficiency and Economy Meet," Vogue, April 1914, pp. 54-55. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," Vogue, January 1914, p. 58.
32. Ewing, p. 120; Mitchel Gray and Mary Kennedy, The Lingerie Book (New York), 1980, p. 15. "A Graceful Dancing Corset," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February 1914, p. 31. Banner, p. 176 offers evidence regarding the emergence of the flapper in the mid-1910s; " Where Efficiency and Economy Meet," Vogue, April 1914, pp. 54-55. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," Vogue, January 1914, p. 58.
33. Ewing, p. 120; Mitchel Gray and Mary Kennedy, The Lingerie Book (New York), 1980, p. 15. "A Graceful Dancing Corset," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February 1914, p. 31. Banner, p. 176 offers evidence regarding the emergence of the flapper in the mid-1910s; " Where Efficiency and Economy Meet," Vogue, April 1914, pp. 54-55. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," Vogue, January 1914, p. 58.
34. Ewing, p. 120; Mitchel Gray and Mary Kennedy, The Lingerie Book (New York), 1980, p. 15. "A Graceful Dancing Corset," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February 1914, p. 31. Banner, p. 176 offers evidence regarding the emergence of the flapper in the mid-1910s; " Where Efficiency and Economy Meet," Vogue, April 1914, pp. 54-55. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," Vogue, January 1914, p. 58.
35. Ewing, p. 120; Mitchel Gray and Mary Kennedy, The Lingerie Book (New York), 1980, p. 15. "A Graceful Dancing Corset," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February 1914, p. 31. Banner, p. 176 offers evidence regarding the emergence of the flapper in the mid-1910s; " Where Efficiency and Economy Meet," Vogue, April 1914, pp. 54-55. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," Vogue, January 1914, p. 58.
36. "Woman Decides to Support Herself," Vogue, August 1917, pp. 67, 80.
37. See Eleanor Flexner, Century of Struggle: The Woman's Rights Movement in the United States (Cambridge, 1959, 1975) and Linda Gordon, Woman's Body, Woman's Right: A Social History of Birth Control in America (New York, 1977) regarding the suffrage and birth control movements respectively. The New York Times reported extensively on the fashion debates. For example, see August 30, 1922, p. 17 regarding the skirt length controversy; see January 17, 1919, p. 5; February 16, 1921, p. 15; February 17, 1921, p. 6; May 22, 1919, p. 9; May 23, 1921, p. 15; June 15, 1921, p. 7 and June 21, 1921, p. 19 regarding modesty and morality; and February 26, 1922, p. 12 regarding college dress codes.
38. See Eleanor Flexner, Century of Struggle: The Woman's Rights Movement in the United States (Cambridge, 1959, 1975) and Linda Gordon, Woman's Body, Woman's Right: A Social History of Birth Control in America (New York, 1977) regarding the suffrage and birth control movements respectively. The New York Times reported extensively on the fashion debates. For example, see August 30, 1922, p. 17 regarding the skirt length controversy; see January 17, 1919, p. 5; February 16, 1921, p. 15; February 17, 1921, p. 6; May 22, 1919, p. 9; May 23, 1921, p. 15; June 15, 1921, p. 7 and June 21, 1921, p. 19 regarding modesty and morality; and February 26, 1922, p. 12 regarding college dress codes.
39. Howard Zinn, A People's History of the United States (New York, 1980), pp. 366-372.
40. My grandmother, Mildred Rosenstein Schwartz (1902-1998), on many occasions provided me with historical data drawn from her life experience; "The Renaissance of the C-rs-t", The Independent, July 25, 1925, p. 88.
41. Corsets & Lingerie first identified corsetlessness as dangerous in "Buyers Against Corsetless Fad: New York Department Store Buyers All Against Fad and Say It Is On the Wane," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 27, 29. The first assertion that it was also evil can be found in "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, p. 31 and Women's Wear Daily, September 24, 1924, p. 28 identify the fad's beginning date. Nicole Thornton, Poiret (New York, 1979), p. 1; Poiret, My First Fifty Years, pp., 72-73); Julian Robinson, Body Packaging: A Guide to Human Sexual Display (Los Angeles), 1988, p. 78. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," p. 58; "Tango Popularizes Corsetless Figure," The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January, 1914, p. 68; Anderman Form Company advertisement, Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February, 1915, p. 20. The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, first published in 1895, changed its name to Corsets & Lingerie in July, 1921, and then again to Corsets & Brassieres in March, 1926. Its publication continues today under the name Intimate Fashion News.
42. Corsets & Lingerie first identified corsetlessness as dangerous in "Buyers Against Corsetless Fad: New York Department Store Buyers All Against Fad and Say It Is On the Wane," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 27, 29. The first assertion that it was also evil can be found in "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, p. 31 and Women's Wear Daily, September 24, 1924, p. 28 identify the fad's beginning date. Nicole Thornton, Poiret (New York, 1979), p. 1; Poiret, My First Fifty Years, pp., 72-73); Julian Robinson, Body Packaging: A Guide to Human Sexual Display (Los Angeles), 1988, p. 78. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," p. 58; "Tango Popularizes Corsetless Figure," The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January, 1914, p. 68; Anderman Form Company advertisement, Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February, 1915, p. 20. The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, first published in 1895, changed its name to Corsets & Lingerie in July, 1921, and then again to Corsets & Brassieres in March, 1926. Its publication continues today under the name Intimate Fashion News.
43. Corsets & Lingerie first identified corsetlessness as dangerous in "Buyers Against Corsetless Fad: New York Department Store Buyers All Against Fad and Say It Is On the Wane," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 27, 29. The first assertion that it was also evil can be found in "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, p. 31 and Women's Wear Daily, September 24, 1924, p. 28 identify the fad's beginning date. Nicole Thornton, Poiret (New York, 1979), p. 1; Poiret, My First Fifty Years, pp., 72-73); Julian Robinson, Body Packaging: A Guide to Human Sexual Display (Los Angeles), 1988, p. 78. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," p. 58; "Tango Popularizes Corsetless Figure," The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January, 1914, p. 68; Anderman Form Company advertisement, Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February, 1915, p. 20. The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, first published in 1895, changed its name to Corsets & Lingerie in July, 1921, and then again to Corsets & Brassieres in March, 1926. Its publication continues today under the name Intimate Fashion News.
44. Corsets & Lingerie first identified corsetlessness as dangerous in "Buyers Against Corsetless Fad: New York Department Store Buyers All Against Fad and Say It Is On the Wane," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 27, 29. The first assertion that it was also evil can be found in "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, p. 31 and Women's Wear Daily, September 24, 1924, p. 28 identify the fad's beginning date. Nicole Thornton, Poiret (New York, 1979), p. 1; Poiret, My First Fifty Years, pp., 72-73); Julian Robinson, Body Packaging: A Guide to Human Sexual Display (Los Angeles), 1988, p. 78. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," p. 58; "Tango Popularizes Corsetless Figure," The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January, 1914, p. 68; Anderman Form Company advertisement, Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February, 1915, p. 20. The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, first published in 1895, changed its name to Corsets & Lingerie in July, 1921, and then again to Corsets & Brassieres in March, 1926. Its publication continues today under the name Intimate Fashion News.
45. Corsets & Lingerie first identified corsetlessness as dangerous in "Buyers Against Corsetless Fad: New York Department Store Buyers All Against Fad and Say It Is On the Wane," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 27, 29. The first assertion that it was also evil can be found in "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, p. 31 and Women's Wear Daily, September 24, 1924, p. 28 identify the fad's beginning date. Nicole Thornton, Poiret (New York, 1979), p. 1; Poiret, My First Fifty Years, pp., 72-73); Julian Robinson, Body Packaging: A Guide to Human Sexual Display (Los Angeles), 1988, p. 78. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," p. 58; "Tango Popularizes Corsetless Figure," The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January, 1914, p. 68; Anderman Form Company advertisement, Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February, 1915, p. 20. The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, first published in 1895, changed its name to Corsets & Lingerie in July, 1921, and then again to Corsets & Brassieres in March, 1926. Its publication continues today under the name Intimate Fashion News.
46. Corsets & Lingerie first identified corsetlessness as dangerous in "Buyers Against Corsetless Fad: New York Department Store Buyers All Against Fad and Say It Is On the Wane," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 27, 29. The first assertion that it was also evil can be found in "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, p. 31 and Women's Wear Daily, September 24, 1924, p. 28 identify the fad's beginning date. Nicole Thornton, Poiret (New York, 1979), p. 1; Poiret, My First Fifty Years, pp., 72-73); Julian Robinson, Body Packaging: A Guide to Human Sexual Display (Los Angeles), 1988, p. 78. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," p. 58; "Tango Popularizes Corsetless Figure," The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January, 1914, p. 68; Anderman Form Company advertisement, Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February, 1915, p. 20. The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, first published in 1895, changed its name to Corsets & Lingerie in July, 1921, and then again to Corsets & Brassieres in March, 1926. Its publication continues today under the name Intimate Fashion News.
47. Corsets & Lingerie first identified corsetlessness as dangerous in "Buyers Against Corsetless Fad: New York Department Store Buyers All Against Fad and Say It Is On the Wane," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 27, 29. The first assertion that it was also evil can be found in "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, p. 31 and Women's Wear Daily, September 24, 1924, p. 28 identify the fad's beginning date. Nicole Thornton, Poiret (New York, 1979), p. 1; Poiret, My First Fifty Years, pp., 72-73); Julian Robinson, Body Packaging: A Guide to Human Sexual Display (Los Angeles), 1988, p. 78. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," p. 58; "Tango Popularizes Corsetless Figure," The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January, 1914, p. 68; Anderman Form Company advertisement, Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February, 1915, p. 20. The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, first published in 1895, changed its name to Corsets & Lingerie in July, 1921, and then again to Corsets & Brassieres in March, 1926. Its publication continues today under the name Intimate Fashion News.
48. Corsets & Lingerie first identified corsetlessness as dangerous in "Buyers Against Corsetless Fad: New York Department Store Buyers All Against Fad and Say It Is On the Wane," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 27, 29. The first assertion that it was also evil can be found in "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, p. 31 and Women's Wear Daily, September 24, 1924, p. 28 identify the fad's beginning date. Nicole Thornton, Poiret (New York, 1979), p. 1; Poiret, My First Fifty Years, pp., 72-73); Julian Robinson, Body Packaging: A Guide to Human Sexual Display (Los Angeles), 1988, p. 78. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," p. 58; "Tango Popularizes Corsetless Figure," The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January, 1914, p. 68; Anderman Form Company advertisement, Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February, 1915, p. 20. The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, first published in 1895, changed its name to Corsets & Lingerie in July, 1921, and then again to Corsets & Brassieres in March, 1926. Its publication continues today under the name Intimate Fashion News.
49. Corsets & Lingerie first identified corsetlessness as dangerous in "Buyers Against Corsetless Fad: New York Department Store Buyers All Against Fad and Say It Is On the Wane," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 27, 29. The first assertion that it was also evil can be found in "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, p. 31 and Women's Wear Daily, September 24, 1924, p. 28 identify the fad's beginning date. Nicole Thornton, Poiret (New York, 1979), p. 1; Poiret, My First Fifty Years, pp., 72-73); Julian Robinson, Body Packaging: A Guide to Human Sexual Display (Los Angeles), 1988, p. 78. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," p. 58; "Tango Popularizes Corsetless Figure," The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January, 1914, p. 68; Anderman Form Company advertisement, Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February, 1915, p. 20. The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, first published in 1895, changed its name to Corsets & Lingerie in July, 1921, and then again to Corsets & Brassieres in March, 1926. Its publication continues today under the name Intimate Fashion News.
50. Corsets & Lingerie first identified corsetlessness as dangerous in "Buyers Against Corsetless Fad: New York Department Store Buyers All Against Fad and Say It Is On the Wane," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 27, 29. The first assertion that it was also evil can be found in "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, p. 31 and Women's Wear Daily, September 24, 1924, p. 28 identify the fad's beginning date. Nicole Thornton, Poiret (New York, 1979), p. 1; Poiret, My First Fifty Years, pp., 72-73); Julian Robinson, Body Packaging: A Guide to Human Sexual Display (Los Angeles), 1988, p. 78. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," p. 58; "Tango Popularizes Corsetless Figure," The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January, 1914, p. 68; Anderman Form Company advertisement, Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February, 1915, p. 20. The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, first published in 1895, changed its name to Corsets & Lingerie in July, 1921, and then again to Corsets & Brassieres in March, 1926. Its publication continues today under the name Intimate Fashion News.
51. Corsets & Lingerie first identified corsetlessness as dangerous in "Buyers Against Corsetless Fad: New York Department Store Buyers All Against Fad and Say It Is On the Wane," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 27, 29. The first assertion that it was also evil can be found in "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, p. 31 and Women's Wear Daily, September 24, 1924, p. 28 identify the fad's beginning date. Nicole Thornton, Poiret (New York, 1979), p. 1; Poiret, My First Fifty Years, pp., 72-73); Julian Robinson, Body Packaging: A Guide to Human Sexual Display (Los Angeles), 1988, p. 78. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," p. 58; "Tango Popularizes Corsetless Figure," The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January, 1914, p. 68; Anderman Form Company advertisement, Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February, 1915, p. 20. The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, first published in 1895, changed its name to Corsets & Lingerie in July, 1921, and then again to Corsets & Brassieres in March, 1926. Its publication continues today under the name Intimate Fashion News.
52. Corsets & Lingerie first identified corsetlessness as dangerous in "Buyers Against Corsetless Fad: New York Department Store Buyers All Against Fad and Say It Is On the Wane," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 27, 29. The first assertion that it was also evil can be found in "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, p. 31 and Women's Wear Daily, September 24, 1924, p. 28 identify the fad's beginning date. Nicole Thornton, Poiret (New York, 1979), p. 1; Poiret, My First Fifty Years, pp., 72-73); Julian Robinson, Body Packaging: A Guide to Human Sexual Display (Los Angeles), 1988, p. 78. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," p. 58; "Tango Popularizes Corsetless Figure," The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January, 1914, p. 68; Anderman Form Company advertisement, Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February, 1915, p. 20. The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, first published in 1895, changed its name to Corsets & Lingerie in July, 1921, and then again to Corsets & Brassieres in March, 1926. Its publication continues today under the name Intimate Fashion News.
53. Corsets & Lingerie first identified corsetlessness as dangerous in "Buyers Against Corsetless Fad: New York Department Store Buyers All Against Fad and Say It Is On the Wane," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 27, 29. The first assertion that it was also evil can be found in "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," Corsets & Lingerie, November 1921, pp. 24-25. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, p. 31 and Women's Wear Daily, September 24, 1924, p. 28 identify the fad's beginning date. Nicole Thornton, Poiret (New York, 1979), p. 1; Poiret, My First Fifty Years, pp., 72-73); Julian Robinson, Body Packaging: A Guide to Human Sexual Display (Los Angeles), 1988, p. 78. "Corseting the Corsetless Figure," p. 58; "Tango Popularizes Corsetless Figure," The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, January, 1914, p. 68; Anderman Form Company advertisement, Women's and Infants' Furnisher, February, 1915, p. 20. The Women's and Infants' Furnisher, first published in 1895, changed its name to Corsets & Lingerie in July, 1921, and then again to Corsets & Brassieres in March, 1926. Its publication continues today under the name Intimate Fashion News.
54. Pulfer, "Fighting the Corsetless Evil," p. 30.
55. "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," November 1921, pp. 24-25; "Flappers Are Responsible for The Corsetless Craze," November 1922, p. 33; "Eminent Surgeons Endorse the Corset," Corsets & Lingerie, December 1921, pp. 32-35.
56. "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," November 1921, pp. 24-25; "Flappers Are Responsible for The Corsetless Craze," November 1922, p. 33; "Eminent Surgeons Endorse the Corset," Corsets & Lingerie, December 1921, pp. 32-35.
57. "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," November 1921, pp. 24-25; "Flappers Are Responsible for The Corsetless Craze," November 1922, p. 33; "Eminent Surgeons Endorse the Corset," Corsets & Lingerie, December 1921, pp. 32-35.
58. "Woman's Friend, The Corset," Literary Digest, November 5, 1921, p. 20.
59. "The Depression of 1920-1922 in the Women's Clothing Industry," Research Department, International Ladies Garment Workers Union (ILGWU). Report included with letter from Mitchell to Dubinsky, May 11, 1945. ILGWU Collection, Labor-Management Documentation Center, Cornell University, David Dubinsky Box 160, Folder 2B. "Table 1 - Corsets and Allied Garments - Summary for the United States: 1899-1929," 1930 Census of Manufacturers, M1930.2, p. 385; Profits of Underwear Manufacturers, 1918-1942: A Survey Made for Underwear Institute, Research & Statistical Division (New York, 1943); Joseph Swanson and Samuel Williamson, "Estimates of National Product and Income for the United States Economy, 1919-1941," Explorations in Economic History (Fall 1972): 53-74. I am grateful to Kathleen Barrett for providing the latter citation and sharing her expertise in business history with me.
60. "The Depression of 1920-1922 in the Women's Clothing Industry," Research Department, International Ladies Garment Workers Union (ILGWU). Report included with letter from Mitchell to Dubinsky, May 11, 1945. ILGWU Collection, Labor-Management Documentation Center, Cornell University, David Dubinsky Box 160, Folder 2B. "Table 1 - Corsets and Allied Garments - Summary for the United States: 1899-1929," 1930 Census of Manufacturers, M1930.2, p. 385; Profits of Underwear Manufacturers, 1918-1942: A Survey Made for Underwear Institute, Research & Statistical Division (New York, 1943); Joseph Swanson and Samuel Williamson, "Estimates of National Product and Income for the United States Economy, 1919-1941," Explorations in Economic History (Fall 1972): 53-74. I am grateful to Kathleen Barrett for providing the latter citation and sharing her expertise in business history with me.
61. 1930 Census of Manufacturers, p. 385; "The Corset," Fortune, March 1938, pp. 95-9+.
62. "Corsets Still in Vogue," Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, pp. 37, 52. "New Novelties for Fall," Corsets & Lingerie, p. 32. "Elastic Girdles and Novelties," first appeared as a "new department" in Corsets & Lingerie, June 1922, p. 43. Corsets & Lingerie, October 1922, p. 4. A discussion of the girdle as merely a new name for the corset appears in Corsets & Lingerie, April 1924, p. 32. Corset and Underwear Review, December 1924, p. 89 blames the older corset for figure problems.
63. "Corsets Still in Vogue," Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, pp. 37, 52. "New Novelties for Fall," Corsets & Lingerie, p. 32. "Elastic Girdles and Novelties," first appeared as a "new department" in Corsets & Lingerie, June 1922, p. 43. Corsets & Lingerie, October 1922, p. 4. A discussion of the girdle as merely a new name for the corset appears in Corsets & Lingerie, April 1924, p. 32. Corset and Underwear Review, December 1924, p. 89 blames the older corset for figure problems.
64. "Corsets Still in Vogue," Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, pp. 37, 52. "New Novelties for Fall," Corsets & Lingerie, p. 32. "Elastic Girdles and Novelties," first appeared as a "new department" in Corsets & Lingerie, June 1922, p. 43. Corsets & Lingerie, October 1922, p. 4. A discussion of the girdle as merely a new name for the corset appears in Corsets & Lingerie, April 1924, p. 32. Corset and Underwear Review, December 1924, p. 89 blames the older corset for figure problems.
65. "Corsets Still in Vogue," Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, pp. 37, 52. "New Novelties for Fall," Corsets & Lingerie, p. 32. "Elastic Girdles and Novelties," first appeared as a "new department" in Corsets & Lingerie, June 1922, p. 43. Corsets & Lingerie, October 1922, p. 4. A discussion of the girdle as merely a new name for the corset appears in Corsets & Lingerie, April 1924, p. 32. Corset and Underwear Review, December 1924, p. 89 blames the older corset for figure problems.
66. "Corsets Still in Vogue," Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, pp. 37, 52. "New Novelties for Fall," Corsets & Lingerie, p. 32. "Elastic Girdles and Novelties," first appeared as a "new department" in Corsets & Lingerie, June 1922, p. 43. Corsets & Lingerie, October 1922, p. 4. A discussion of the girdle as merely a new name for the corset appears in Corsets & Lingerie, April 1924, p. 32. Corset and Underwear Review, December 1924, p. 89 blames the older corset for figure problems.
67. "Corsets Still in Vogue," Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, pp. 37, 52. "New Novelties for Fall," Corsets & Lingerie, p. 32. "Elastic Girdles and Novelties," first appeared as a "new department" in Corsets & Lingerie, June 1922, p. 43. Corsets & Lingerie, October 1922, p. 4. A discussion of the girdle as merely a new name for the corset appears in Corsets & Lingerie, April 1924, p. 32. Corset and Underwear Review, December 1924, p. 89 blames the older corset for figure problems.
68. "Parisian Women Wear Corsets," Corsets & Lingerie, August 1921, p. 31; "Paris on the Corset Question," Corsets & Lingerie, December, 1921 pp. 25-26.
69. "Parisian Women Wear Corsets," Corsets & Lingerie, August 1921, p. 31; "Paris on the Corset Question," Corsets & Lingerie, December, 1921 pp. 25-26.
70. Gertrude L. Nickerson, "The American Woman and Her Corset," Corset and Underwear Review, November 1924, pp. 83-84.
71. "The Evils of the No-Corset Fad," November 1921, pp. 24-25.
72. "Eminent Surgeons Endorse the Corset," December 1921, pp. 32-35.
73. ibid.
74. ibid. See Steven J. Ross, "Struggles For the Screen: Workers, Radicals and the Political Uses of Silent Film," American Historical Review 96 (April 1991): 333-368, for more on the mocking of radical women as failed men in a variety of popular media.
75. ibid. See Steven J. Ross, "Struggles For the Screen: Workers, Radicals and the Political Uses of Silent Film," American Historical Review 96 (April 1991): 333-368, for more on the mocking of radical women as failed men in a variety of popular media.
76. Royal Worcester Corset Company advertisement, Corsets & Lingerie, November 1922, p. 7; 1930 Manufacturers Census, p. 385; Helen Walser, "The Renaissance of the Corset," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1930, p. 55; "Corset Show Big Help," Corsets & Brassieres, December 1930, p. 33; "Joel Alexander Looks at 1935," Corsets & Brassieres, January 1935, p. 45.
77. Royal Worcester Corset Company advertisement, Corsets & Lingerie, November 1922, p. 7; 1930 Manufacturers Census, p. 385; Helen Walser, "The Renaissance of the Corset," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1930, p. 55; "Corset Show Big Help," Corsets & Brassieres, December 1930, p. 33; "Joel Alexander Looks at 1935," Corsets & Brassieres, January 1935, p. 45.
78. Royal Worcester Corset Company advertisement, Corsets & Lingerie, November 1922, p. 7; 1930 Manufacturers Census, p. 385; Helen Walser, "The Renaissance of the Corset," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1930, p. 55; "Corset Show Big Help," Corsets & Brassieres, December 1930, p. 33; "Joel Alexander Looks at 1935," Corsets & Brassieres, January 1935, p. 45.
79. Royal Worcester Corset Company advertisement, Corsets & Lingerie, November 1922, p. 7; 1930 Manufacturers Census, p. 385; Helen Walser, "The Renaissance of the Corset," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1930, p. 55; "Corset Show Big Help," Corsets & Brassieres, December 1930, p. 33; "Joel Alexander Looks at 1935," Corsets & Brassieres, January 1935, p. 45.
80. Royal Worcester Corset Company advertisement, Corsets & Lingerie, November 1922, p. 7; 1930 Manufacturers Census, p. 385; Helen Walser, "The Renaissance of the Corset," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1930, p. 55; "Corset Show Big Help," Corsets & Brassieres, December 1930, p. 33; "Joel Alexander Looks at 1935," Corsets & Brassieres, January 1935, p. 45.
81. Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Young Girl Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, April 1921, p. 28; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Top-Heavy Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, May 1921, p. 28; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Curved Back Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, June 1921, p. 32; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Full Proportioned Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, p. 34; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Thigh Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, August
82. Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Young Girl Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, April 1921, p. 28; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Top-Heavy Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, May 1921, p. 28; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Curved Back Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, June 1921, p. 32; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Full Proportioned Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, p. 34; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Thigh Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, August 1921, p. 30; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Maternity Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 34. In 1921, Ethel Allen was the Supervisor of Instruction at the Kabo School of Corsetry.
83. Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Young Girl Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, April 1921, p. 28; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Top-Heavy Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, May 1921, p. 28; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Curved Back Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, June 1921, p. 32; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Full Proportioned Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, p. 34; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Thigh Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, August 1921, p. 30; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Maternity Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 34. In 1921, Ethel Allen was the Supervisor of Instruction at the Kabo School of Corsetry.
84. Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Young Girl Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, April 1921, p. 28; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Top-Heavy Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, May 1921, p. 28; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Curved Back Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, June 1921, p. 32; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Full Proportioned Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, p. 34; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Thigh Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, August 1921, p. 30; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Maternity Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 34. In 1921, Ethel Allen was the Supervisor of Instruction at the Kabo School of Corsetry.
85. Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Young Girl Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, April 1921, p. 28; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Top-Heavy Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, May 1921, p. 28; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Curved Back Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, June 1921, p. 32; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Full Proportioned Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, p. 34; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Thigh Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, August 1921, p. 30; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Maternity Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 34. In 1921, Ethel Allen was the Supervisor of Instruction at the Kabo School of Corsetry.
86. Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Young Girl Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, April 1921, p. 28; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Top-Heavy Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, May 1921, p. 28; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Curved Back Figure," Women's and Infants' Furnisher, June 1921, p. 32; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Full Proportioned Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, p. 34; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Thigh Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, August 1921, p. 30; Ethel Allen, "Corset Fitting the Maternity Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, p. 34. In 1921, Ethel Allen was the Supervisor of Instruction at the Kabo School of Corsetry.
87. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1921, p. 64.
88. Women's & Infants' Furnisher, January 1921, p. 44; "Corsets of Distinct Types," Women's & Infants' Furnisher, September 1906, p. 35.
89. Women's & Infants' Furnisher, January 1921, p. 44; "Corsets of Distinct Types," Women's & Infants' Furnisher, September 1906, p. 35.
90. For other sources on the movement of scientific rationalization into the domestic sphere see Dolores Hayden, The Grand Domestic Revolution: A History of Feminist Designs for American Homes, Neighborhoods, and Cities (Cambridge, MA, 1981), and Ruth Schwartz Cowan, More Work for Mother: The Ironies of Household Technology from the Open Hearth to the Microwave (London, 1989).
91. For other sources on the movement of scientific rationalization into the domestic sphere see Dolores Hayden, The Grand Domestic Revolution: A History of Feminist Designs for American Homes, Neighborhoods, and Cities (Cambridge, MA, 1981), and Ruth Schwartz Cowan, More Work for Mother: The Ironies of Household Technology from the Open Hearth to the Microwave (London, 1989).
92. Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, p. 15; January 1925, p. 23; The Principles of Scientific Corset Fitting (New York, 1925); Women's & Infants' Furnisher, March 1921, p. 49; Corsets & Brassieres, July 1928, p. 41.
93. Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, p. 15; January 1925, p. 23; The Principles of Scientific Corset Fitting (New York, 1925); Women's & Infants' Furnisher, March 1921, p. 49; Corsets & Brassieres, July 1928, p. 41.
94. Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, p. 15; January 1925, p. 23; The Principles of Scientific Corset Fitting (New York, 1925); Women's & Infants' Furnisher, March 1921, p. 49; Corsets & Brassieres, July 1928, p. 41.
95. Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, p. 15; January 1925, p. 23; The Principles of Scientific Corset Fitting (New York, 1925); Women's & Infants' Furnisher, March 1921, p. 49; Corsets & Brassieres, July 1928, p. 41.
96. Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, p. 15; January 1925, p. 23; The Principles of Scientific Corset Fitting (New York, 1925); Women's & Infants' Furnisher, March 1921, p. 49; Corsets & Brassieres, July 1928, p. 41.
97. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1925, p. 23.
98. The Principles of Scientific Corset Fitting p. 12; "Woman's Friend, The Corset," p. 20; Modart's employment of ptosis to sell corsets was similar to other discoveries of medicalized conditions for advertising purposes in the 1920s, such as Listerine's promotion of halitosis. See Stephen Fox, The Mirror Makers : A History of American Advertising and Its Creators (New York, 1984), pp. 97-8, and Roland Marchand, Advertising the American Dream: Making Way for Modernity, 1920 to 1940 (Berkeley, 1985), pp. 18-20, 218-19.
99. The Principles of Scientific Corset Fitting p. 12; "Woman's Friend, The Corset," p. 20; Modart's employment of ptosis to sell corsets was similar to other discoveries of medicalized conditions for advertising purposes in the 1920s, such as Listerine's promotion of halitosis. See Stephen Fox, The Mirror Makers : A History of American Advertising and Its Creators (New York, 1984), pp. 97-8, and Roland Marchand, Advertising the American Dream: Making Way for Modernity, 1920 to 1940 (Berkeley, 1985), pp. 18-20, 218-19.
100. The Principles of Scientific Corset Fitting p. 12; "Woman's Friend, The Corset," p. 20; Modart's employment of ptosis to sell corsets was similar to other discoveries of medicalized conditions for advertising purposes in the 1920s, such as Listerine's promotion of halitosis. See Stephen Fox, The Mirror Makers : A History of American Advertising and Its Creators (New York, 1984), pp. 97-8, and Roland Marchand, Advertising the American Dream: Making Way for Modernity, 1920 to 1940 (Berkeley, 1985), pp. 18-20, 218-19.
101. The Principles of Scientific Corset Fitting p. 12; "Woman's Friend, The Corset," p. 20; Modart's employment of ptosis to sell corsets was similar to other discoveries of medicalized conditions for advertising purposes in the 1920s, such as Listerine's promotion of halitosis. See Stephen Fox, The Mirror Makers : A History of American Advertising and Its Creators (New York, 1984), pp. 97-8, and Roland Marchand, Advertising the American Dream: Making Way for Modernity, 1920 to 1940 (Berkeley, 1985), pp. 18-20, 218-19.
102. "The corset stock is one of the safest of all the stocks in the dry goods store." Women's & Infants' Furnisher, 1896 quoted in their 25th anniversary issue, January 1921, p. 61; "Corset Departments Lead in Store Profits!," Warner Brothers ad, Corsets & Brassieres, January 1933, p. 3; Corsets & Brassieres, February 1938, p. 25; Corset Preview: The Bulletin of the National Retail Dry Goods Association, July 1941, p. 13; Corset &Underwear Review Sales Training Manual Issue, August 1942, p. 122; "Corset Selling Is An Art," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1946, p. 34.
103. "The corset stock is one of the safest of all the stocks in the dry goods store." Women's & Infants' Furnisher, 1896 quoted in their 25th anniversary issue, January 1921, p. 61; "Corset Departments Lead in Store Profits!," Warner Brothers ad, Corsets & Brassieres, January 1933, p. 3; Corsets & Brassieres, February 1938, p. 25; Corset Preview: The Bulletin of the National Retail Dry Goods Association, July 1941, p. 13; Corset &Underwear Review Sales Training Manual Issue, August 1942, p. 122; "Corset Selling Is An Art," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1946, p. 34.
104. "The corset stock is one of the safest of all the stocks in the dry goods store." Women's & Infants' Furnisher, 1896 quoted in their 25th anniversary issue, January 1921, p. 61; "Corset Departments Lead in Store Profits!," Warner Brothers ad, Corsets & Brassieres, January 1933, p. 3; Corsets & Brassieres, February 1938, p. 25; Corset Preview: The Bulletin of the National Retail Dry Goods Association, July 1941, p. 13; Corset &Underwear Review Sales Training Manual Issue, August 1942, p. 122; "Corset Selling Is An Art," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1946, p. 34.
105. "The corset stock is one of the safest of all the stocks in the dry goods store." Women's & Infants' Furnisher, 1896 quoted in their 25th anniversary issue, January 1921, p. 61; "Corset Departments Lead in Store Profits!," Warner Brothers ad, Corsets & Brassieres, January 1933, p. 3; Corsets & Brassieres, February 1938, p. 25; Corset Preview: The Bulletin of the National Retail Dry Goods Association, July 1941, p. 13; Corset &Underwear Review Sales Training Manual Issue, August 1942, p. 122; "Corset Selling Is An Art," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1946, p. 34.
106. "The corset stock is one of the safest of all the stocks in the dry goods store." Women's & Infants' Furnisher, 1896 quoted in their 25th anniversary issue, January 1921, p. 61; "Corset Departments Lead in Store Profits!," Warner Brothers ad, Corsets & Brassieres, January 1933, p. 3; Corsets & Brassieres, February 1938, p. 25; Corset Preview: The Bulletin of the National Retail Dry Goods Association, July 1941, p. 13; Corset &Underwear Review Sales Training Manual Issue, August 1942, p. 122; "Corset Selling Is An Art," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1946, p. 34.
107. "The corset stock is one of the safest of all the stocks in the dry goods store." Women's & Infants' Furnisher, 1896 quoted in their 25th anniversary issue, January 1921, p. 61; "Corset Departments Lead in Store Profits!," Warner Brothers ad, Corsets & Brassieres, January 1933, p. 3; Corsets & Brassieres, February 1938, p. 25; Corset Preview: The Bulletin of the National Retail Dry Goods Association, July 1941, p. 13; Corset &Underwear Review Sales Training Manual Issue, August 1942, p. 122; "Corset Selling Is An Art," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1946, p. 34.
108. Women's & Infants' Furnisher, April 1921, p. 2. Gossard also encouraged the reduction in the number of lines each department carried. Their 1921 analysis of the current economic depression suggested that the problem of "stock liquidation" could be resolved by carrying complete lines by fewer companies. The point of view expressed by Warner's and Gossard obviously favored larger companies that widely advertised their products. Women's and Infant's Furnisher, January 1921, p. 3.
109. Women's & Infants' Furnisher, April 1921, p. 2. Gossard also encouraged the reduction in the number of lines each department carried. Their 1921 analysis of the current economic depression suggested that the problem of "stock liquidation" could be resolved by carrying complete lines by fewer companies. The point of view expressed by Warner's and Gossard obviously favored larger companies that widely advertised their products. Women's and Infant's Furnisher, January 1921, p. 3.
110. These are the category names used by Modart Corset Company in The Principles of Scientific Corset Fitting.
111. "How to Choose the Right Corset," Good Housekeeping, September 1921, pp. 52-53; "Modern Styles Do Not Cater to One Type of Silhouette But to Several," Corsets & Brassieres, May 1933, pp. 26-7; Corsets & Lingerie, January 1921 p. 43; "A Matter of Opinion," Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, p. 35.
112. "How to Choose the Right Corset," Good Housekeeping, September 1921, pp. 52-53; "Modern Styles Do Not Cater to One Type of Silhouette But to Several," Corsets & Brassieres, May 1933, pp. 26-7; Corsets & Lingerie, January 1921 p. 43; "A Matter of Opinion," Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, p. 35.
113. "How to Choose the Right Corset," Good Housekeeping, September 1921, pp. 52-53; "Modern Styles Do Not Cater to One Type of Silhouette But to Several," Corsets & Brassieres, May 1933, pp. 26-7; Corsets & Lingerie, January 1921 p. 43; "A Matter of Opinion," Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, p. 35.
114. "How to Choose the Right Corset," Good Housekeeping, September 1921, pp. 52-53; "Modern Styles Do Not Cater to One Type of Silhouette But to Several," Corsets & Brassieres, May 1933, pp. 26-7; Corsets & Lingerie, January 1921 p. 43; "A Matter of Opinion," Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, p. 35.
115. Ewing, p. 136; Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, p. 43; Ewing, p. 137.
116. Ewing, p. 136; Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, p. 43; Ewing, p. 137.
117. Ewing, p. 136; Corsets & Lingerie, July 1921, p. 43; Ewing, p. 137.
118. "A Significant New Development in Modern Merchandising," Bon Ton Corsets advertisement, Corsets & Brassieres, 1929, p. 14.
119. "Curriculum For the Corset Salesgirl," Corsets & Brassieres, July 1941, pp. 34-5; Corset & Underwear Review, Sales Training Manual, August 1942, pp. 26-27.
120. "Curriculum For the Corset Salesgirl," Corsets & Brassieres, July 1941, pp. 34-5; Corset & Underwear Review, Sales Training Manual, August 1942, pp. 26-27.
121. Allen, "Corseting the Curved Back Figure," Corsets & Lingerie, June 1921, p. 32.
122. Women's Wear Daily, May 19, 1917, p. 15; November 14, 1940, p. 31.
123. Women's Wear Daily, May 19, 1917, p. 15; November 14, 1940, p. 31.
124. Allen, "Corset-Fitting the Full Proportioned Figure," p. 30; Allen, "Corset-Fitting the Top-Heavy Figure," p. 28; Corset & Underwear Review, Sales Training Manual, August 1942; ibid.
125. Allen, "Corset-Fitting the Full Proportioned Figure," p. 30; Allen, "Corset-Fitting the Top-Heavy Figure," p. 28; Corset & Underwear Review, Sales Training Manual, August 1942; ibid.
126. Allen, "Corset-Fitting the Full Proportioned Figure," p. 30; Allen, "Corset-Fitting the Top-Heavy Figure," p. 28; Corset & Underwear Review, Sales Training Manual, August 1942; ibid.
127. Allen, "Corset-Fitting the Full Proportioned Figure," p. 30; Allen, "Corset-Fitting the Top-Heavy Figure," p. 28; Corset & Underwear Review, Sales Training Manual, August 1942; ibid.
128. "Curriculum For the Corset Salesgirl," Corsets & Brassieres, July 1941, pp. 34-5. For a fuller discussion on the tensions between department store saleswomen, customers and managers see Susan Porter Benson, Counter Cultures: Saleswomen, Managers and Customers in American Department Stores, 1890-1940 (Chicago, 1986).
129. "Curriculum For the Corset Salesgirl," Corsets & Brassieres, July 1941, pp. 34-5. For a fuller discussion on the tensions between department store saleswomen, customers and managers see Susan Porter Benson, Counter Cultures: Saleswomen, Managers and Customers in American Department Stores, 1890-1940 (Chicago, 1986).
130. Allen, "Corseting the Curved Back Figure," p. 32.
131. Women's & Infants' Furnisher, April 1918, p. 38; Gordon, p. 9.
132. Women's & Infants' Furnisher, April 1918, p. 38; Gordon, p. 9.
133. "Training the New Salesgirl," Corsets & Brassieres, September 1946, p. 48-9; Allen, Women's & Infants' Furnisher, June 1921, p. 32. Regarding corset selling as an art see Women's & Infants' Furnisher, May 1925, p. 27 and "Corset Selling Is An Art," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1946, p. 34.
134. "Training the New Salesgirl," Corsets & Brassieres, September 1946, p. 48-9; Allen, Women's & Infants' Furnisher, June 1921, p. 32. Regarding corset selling as an art see Women's & Infants' Furnisher, May 1925, p. 27 and "Corset Selling Is An Art," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1946, p. 34.
135. "Training the New Salesgirl," Corsets & Brassieres, September 1946, p. 48-9; Allen, Women's & Infants' Furnisher, June 1921, p. 32. Regarding corset selling as an art see Women's & Infants' Furnisher, May 1925, p. 27 and "Corset Selling Is An Art," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1946, p. 34.
136. "Training the New Salesgirl," Corsets & Brassieres, September 1946, p. 48-9; Allen, Women's & Infants' Furnisher, June 1921, p. 32. Regarding corset selling as an art see Women's & Infants' Furnisher, May 1925, p. 27 and "Corset Selling Is An Art," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1946, p. 34.
137. Allen, "Corset Fitting the Young Girl Figure," p. 28; Corsets & Brassieres, January 1933, p. 35.
138. Allen, "Corset Fitting the Young Girl Figure," p. 28; Corsets & Brassieres, January 1933, p. 35.
139. "New Interest in Junior Garments," Corsets & Brassieres, January 1929, p. 28; "Warner Opening Well Attended," Corsets & Brassieres, March 1930, p. 41.
140. "New Interest in Junior Garments," Corsets & Brassieres, January 1929, p. 28; "Warner Opening Well Attended," Corsets & Brassieres, March 1930, p. 41.
141. The retailer B. Altman & Company, for example, focused on this commercial rite of passage in their advertisements which announced "that a young girls' first corset is an important event." Women's Wear Daily, April 2, 1931; Women's Wear Daily, April 30, 1931, Sec. 2, p. 4; Corsets & Brassieres, August, 1946, p. 16.
142. The retailer B. Altman & Company, for example, focused on this commercial rite of passage in their advertisements which announced "that a young girls' first corset is an important event." Women's Wear Daily, April 2, 1931; Women's Wear Daily, April 30, 1931, Sec. 2, p. 4; Corsets & Brassieres, August, 1946, p. 16.
143. The retailer B. Altman & Company, for example, focused on this commercial rite of passage in their advertisements which announced "that a young girls' first corset is an important event." Women's Wear Daily, April 2, 1931; Women's Wear Daily, April 30, 1931, Sec. 2, p. 4; Corsets & Brassieres, August, 1946, p. 16.
144. Women's & Infants' Furnisher, February 1915, p. 49.
145. "The Junior Department," Corsets & Brassieres, April 1930, pp. 34-5.
146. "The Junior Corset Department," Corsets & Brassieres, January 1930, p. 41; "A Prosperous Outlook - Corset Buyers and Manufacturers Are All Very Optimistic," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1930, p. 25; Corsets & Brassieres, March 1930, p. 41.
147. "The Junior Corset Department," Corsets & Brassieres, January 1930, p. 41; "A Prosperous Outlook - Corset Buyers and Manufacturers Are All Very Optimistic," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1930, p. 25; Corsets & Brassieres, March 1930, p. 41.
148. "The Junior Corset Department," Corsets & Brassieres, January 1930, p. 41; "A Prosperous Outlook - Corset Buyers and Manufacturers Are All Very Optimistic," Corsets & Brassieres, February 1930, p. 25; Corsets & Brassieres, March 1930, p. 41.
149. Corsets & Brassieres, July 1930, p. 43; October 1930, p. 27.
150. Corsets & Brassieres, July 1930, p. 43; October 1930, p. 27.
151. Corsets & Lingerie, January 1924, pp. 31-32.
152. This point is also made in Corsets & Brassieres, January 1933, p. 35.
153. "Junior Week Arouses Interest," Corsets & Brassieres, July 1930, p. 43; "Junior Corset Week A Success," Corsets & Brassieres, C&B, October 1930, p. 27; Corsets & Brassieres, January 1933, p. 35.
154. "Junior Week Arouses Interest," Corsets & Brassieres, July 1930, p. 43; "Junior Corset Week A Success," Corsets & Brassieres, C&B, October 1930, p. 27; Corsets & Brassieres, January 1933, p. 35.
155. "Junior Week Arouses Interest," Corsets & Brassieres, July 1930, p. 43; "Junior Corset Week A Success," Corsets & Brassieres, C&B, October 1930, p. 27; Corsets & Brassieres, January 1933, p. 35.
156. Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, n.p.; October 1922, p. 34; July 1921, p. 37; June 1922 p. 43; Women's & Infants' Furnisher, January 1914, p. 39; Corsets & Lingerie, April 1924, p. 29; Women's Wear Daily, September 3, 1924, p. 32.
157. Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, n.p.; October 1922, p. 34; July 1921, p. 37; June 1922 p. 43; Women's & Infants' Furnisher, January 1914, p. 39; Corsets & Lingerie, April 1924, p. 29; Women's Wear Daily, September 3, 1924, p. 32.
158. Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, n.p.; October 1922, p. 34; July 1921, p. 37; June 1922 p. 43; Women's & Infants' Furnisher, January 1914, p. 39; Corsets & Lingerie, April 1924, p. 29; Women's Wear Daily, September 3, 1924, p. 32.
159. Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, n.p.; October 1922, p. 34; July 1921, p. 37; June 1922 p. 43; Women's & Infants' Furnisher, January 1914, p. 39; Corsets & Lingerie, April 1924, p. 29; Women's Wear Daily, September 3, 1924, p. 32.
160. Corsets & Lingerie, September 1921, n.p.; October 1922, p. 34; July 1921, p. 37; June 1922 p. 43; Women's & Infants' Furnisher, January 1914, p. 39; Corsets & Lingerie, April 1924, p. 29; Women's Wear Daily, September 3, 1924, p. 32.
161. Corsets & Lingerie, June 1924, p. 49; Women's Wear Daily, September 3, 1924, p. 32; September 24, 1924, p. 28; Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, p. 9; "What Others Say About Rubber Goods," Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, pp. 40-1; "Do Corsets Further Femininity?" Corsets & Lingerie, April 1925, p. 29.
162. Corsets & Lingerie, June 1924, p. 49; Women's Wear Daily, September 3, 1924, p. 32; September 24, 1924, p. 28; Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, p. 9; "What Others Say About Rubber Goods," Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, pp. 40-1; "Do Corsets Further Femininity?" Corsets & Lingerie, April 1925, p. 29.
163. Corsets & Lingerie, June 1924, p. 49; Women's Wear Daily, September 3, 1924, p. 32; September 24, 1924, p. 28; Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, p. 9; "What Others Say About Rubber Goods," Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, pp. 40-1; "Do Corsets Further Femininity?" Corsets & Lingerie, April 1925, p. 29.
164. Corsets & Lingerie, June 1924, p. 49; Women's Wear Daily, September 3, 1924, p. 32; September 24, 1924, p. 28; Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, p. 9; "What Others Say About Rubber Goods," Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, pp. 40-1; "Do Corsets Further Femininity?" Corsets & Lingerie, April 1925, p. 29.
165. Corsets & Lingerie, June 1924, p. 49; Women's Wear Daily, September 3, 1924, p. 32; September 24, 1924, p. 28; Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, p. 9; "What Others Say About Rubber Goods," Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, pp. 40-1; "Do Corsets Further Femininity?" Corsets & Lingerie, April 1925, p. 29.
166. Corsets & Lingerie, June 1924, p. 49; Women's Wear Daily, September 3, 1924, p. 32; September 24, 1924, p. 28; Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, p. 9; "What Others Say About Rubber Goods," Corsets & Lingerie, February 1925, pp. 40-1; "Do Corsets Further Femininity?" Corsets & Lingerie, April 1925, p. 29.
167. For more on the New Look from 1947 to 1952, see "Return of the Repressed (Waist)," chapter 7 of Jill Fields, "The Production of Glamour: A Social History of Intimate Apparel, 1909-1952" (forthcoming, University of California Press).
168. Michel Foucault, Language, Counter-Memory, Practice: Selected Essays and Interviews, edited by Donald F. Bouchard (Ithaca, 1977), p. 150.