Humectants

Skin Moisturization

Volumn , Issue , 2002, Pages 245-266

  Rawlings, Anthony V ^a   Harding, Clive R ^a   Watkinson, Allan ^a   Chandar, Prem ^a   Scott, Ian R ^a  

^a UNILEVER RESEARCH   (United Kingdom)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

EID: 0038630928     PISSN: None     EISSN: None     Source Type: Book    
DOI: None     Document Type: Chapter

References (44)

1. Pierard GE. What does dry skin mean? Int J Dermatol 1987; 23:167–168.
2. Rawlings AV, Watkinson A, Rogers J, Mayo AM, Hope J, Scott IR. Abnormalities in stratum corneum structure, lipid composition and desmosome degradation in soap-induced winter xerosis. J Cosmet Chem 1994; 45:203–220.
3. Rawlings AV, Scott IR, Harding CR, Bowser PA. Stratum corneum moisturisation at the molecular level. J Invest Dermatol 1994; 103:731–740.
4. Harding CR, Watkinson A, Scott IR, Rawlings AV. Dry skin, moisturisation and corneodesmolysis. Int J Cosmet Sci 2000; 22:21–52.
5. Rawlings AV, Harding CR, Watkinson A, Scott IR. Dry and xerotic skin conditions. In: Leyden J, Rawlings AV, eds. Skin Moisturization. New York: Marcel Dekker (in press).
6. Suzuki Y, Koyama J, Moro O, Horii I, Kukuchi K, Tanida M, Tagami H. Br J Dermatol 1996; 134:460–464.
7. Rawlings A, Harding CR, Watkinson A, Banks J, Ackerman C, Sabin R. The effect of glycerol and humidity on desmosome degradation in stratum corneum. Arch Dermatol Res 1995; 287:457–464.
8. Blank IH. Further observations on factors which influence the water content of the stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol 1953; 21:259–271.
9. Lindberg M, Forslind B. The skin as a barrier. In: Loden M, Maibach HI, eds. Dry Skin and Moisturizers. Boca Raton: CRC Press, 2000:27–37.
10. Scheuplen PJ, Blank IH. Permeability of the skin. Physiol Rev 1971; 51:702–747.
11. Idson B. Water and the skin. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1973; 24:197–212.
12. Idson B. Biophysical factors in skin penetration. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1971; 22:615–34.
13. Harding CR, Scott IR. Natural moisturising factor. In: Leyden J, Rawlings AV, eds. Skin Moisturization. New York: Marcel Dekker (in press).
14. Middleton JC. The mechanism of water binding in the stratum corneum. Br J Dermatol 1968; 80:437–450.
15. Potts RO. Stratum corneum hydration: experimental techniques and interpretations of results. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1986; 37:9–33.
16. Takahashi M, Yamada M, MachidaY. A new method to evaluate the softening effects of cosmetic ingredients on the skin. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1984; 35:171–181.
17. Rawlings AV, Watkinson A, Harding CR, Ackerman C, Banks J, Hope J, Scott IR. Changes in stratum corneum lipid and desmosome structure together with water barrier function during mechanical stress. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1995; 46:141–151.
18. Takahashi M, Kawasaki K, Tanaka M, Ohta S, Tsuda Y. The mechanism of stratum corneum plasticisation with water. In Marks R, Pine PA, Bioengineering of the Skin. eds Lancaster: MTP Press, 198167–73.
19. Middleton JD. Development of a skin cream designed to reduce dry and flaky skin. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1974; 25:519–534.
20. Chander P, Harding CR, Watkinson A, Banks J, Sabin R, Hoyberg K, Rawlings AV. Superiority of glycerol containing moisturisers on desquamation and desmosome hydrolysis. J Invest Dermatol 1996; 106:919.
21. Friberg SE, Kyali I, Rhein LD. Direct role of linoleic acid in barrier function. Effect of linoleic acid on the crystalline structure of oleic acid/oleate model stratum corneum lipid. J Disp Sci Technol 1990; 11:31–47.
22. Saint-Leger D, Francois AM, Leveque JL, Stuudesmeuyer T, Kligman AM, Grove GL. Stratum corneum lipids in winter xerosis. Dermatologica 1989; 178:151–155.
23. Fulmer AW, Kramer GJ. Stratum corneum abnormalities in surfactant induced dry scaly skin. J Invest Dermatol 1989; 80:598–602.
24. Warner RR, Boissy YL. Effect of moisturising products on the structure of lipids in the outer stratum corneum of human. In: Loden M, Maibach HI, eds. Dry Skin and Moisturizers. Boca Raton: CRC Press, 2000: 349–372.
25. Berry N, Charmeil C, Goujon C, Silvy A, Girard P, Corcuff C. Moisturiser. A clinical, biometrological and ultrastructural study of xerotic skin. Int J Cosmet Sci 1999; 21:241–252.
26. Mattai J, Froebe CL, Rhein LD, Simion A, Ohlmeyer DT, Friberg SE. Preventation of model stratum corneum lipid phase transitions in vitro by cosmetic additives. Differential scanning calorimetry optical microscopy and water evaporation studies. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1993; 44:89–100.
27. Orth DS, Appa Y, Contard P, Siegel E, Donnelly TA, Rheins LA. Effect of high glycerin therapeutic moisturizers on the ultrastructure of the stratum corneum. Annual meeting of ADD1995.
28. Batt MD, Davis WB, Fairhurst WA, Gerrard WA, Ridge BD. Changes in the physical properties of the stratum corneum following treatment with glycerol. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1988; 39:367–381.
29. Kligman A. Regression method for assessing the efficacy of moisturizers. Cosmet Toil 1978; 93:27–35.
30. Boisits EK, Nole GE, Cheney MC. The refined regression method. J Cutan Aging Cosmet Dermatol 1989; 1:155–163.
31. Orth D, Appa Y.Glycerine: a natural ingredient for moisturising skin. In: Loden M, Maibach HI, eds. Dry Skin and Moisturizers. Boca Raton: CRC Press, 2000:213–228.
32. Summers RS, Summers B, Chander P, Fernberg C, Gursky R, Rawlings AV. The effect of lipids, with and without humectant, on skin xerosis. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1996; 47:27–39.
33. Christensen MS, Nacht S, Kantor SL, Gans EH. Amethod for measuring desquamation and its use for assessing the effects of some common exfoliants. J Invest Dermatol 1978; 71:289–294.
34. Harding CR, Rawlings AV, Long S, Richardson J, Rogers J, Zhang Z, Bush A. The cornified cell envelope: an important marker of stratum corneum maturation in healthy and dry skin. In: Lal M, Lifford PJ, Waik VM, Prakash V, eds. Supramolecular and Celloidal Structures in Biomaterials and Biosubstrates. Proceedings of the 5th Roycal Society-Unilever Indo-UK forum in materials science and engineering. 1999:386–405.
35. Fluhr JW, Gloo M, Lehmann L, Lazzerini S, Distante F, Berardesca E. Glycerol accelerates the recovery of barrier function in vivo. Acta Derm Venereol 1999; 79:418–421.
36. Middleton JD, Roberts ME. Effect of a skin cream containing the sodium slat of pyrollidone carboxylic acid on dry and flaky skin. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1978; 29:201–205.
37. Loden M.Urea. In: Loden M, Maibach HI, eds. Dry Skin and Moisturizers. Boca Raton: CRC Press, 2000:243–257.
38. Johnson AW. Hydroxyacids. In: Leyden J, Rawlings AV. Skin Moisturization. New York: Marcel Dekker (in press).
39. Bagatell FK, Smoot W. Observations on a lactate containing emollient cream. Cutis 1976; 18:591.
40. Dahl MV, Dahl AC. 12% lactate lotion for the treatment of xerosis. Arch Dermatol 1983;119:27.
41. Wehr R, Krochmal L, Bagatell F, Ragsdale W. A controlled 2 center study of lactate 12% lotion and a petrolatum based cream in patients with xerosis. Cutis 1986; 23:205.
42. Leveque S. Salicylic acid andderivatives: which roles. In: Leyden J, Rawlings AV, eds. Skin Moisturization. New York Marcel Dekker (in press).
43. Berardesca E, Distante F, Vignol G, Oresajo C, Green B. Alpha-hydroxy acids modulate stratum corneum barrier function. Br J Dermatol 1997; 137:934.
44. Rawlings AV, Davies A, Carlomusto M, Pillai S, Zhang K, Kosturko R, Verdejo P. Feinberg C, Nguyen L, Chandar P. Keratinocyte ceramide synthesis, effect of lactic acid isomers on straturm corneum lipid levels and stratum corneum barrier function. Arch Dermatol Res 1996; 288:383.