메뉴 건너뛰기




Volumn 486, Issue , 2003, Pages 161-188

An experimental study of wave run-up at a steep beach

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

DAMPING; FLUID MECHANICS; IMAGE ANALYSIS;

EID: 0037962018     PISSN: 00221120     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1017/S0022112003004543     Document Type: Article
Times cited : (125)

References (49)
  • 1
    • 84958444933 scopus 로고
    • Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach
    • CARRIER, G. F. & GREENSPAN, H. P. 1958 Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach. J. Fluid Mech. 4, 97-109.
    • (1958) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.4 , pp. 97-109
    • Carrier, G.F.1    Greenspan, H.P.2
  • 2
    • 0031809365 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Velocity, acceleration and vorticity under a breaking wave
    • CHANG, K.-A. & LIU, P. L.-F. 1998 Velocity, acceleration and vorticity under a breaking wave. Phys. Fluids 10, 327-329.
    • (1998) Phys. Fluids , vol.10 , pp. 327-329
    • Chang, K.-A.1    Liu, P.L.-F.2
  • 3
    • 0000920751 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Experimental investigation of turbulence generated by breaking waves in water of intermediate depth
    • CHANG, K.-A. & LIU, P. L.-F. 1999 Experimental investigation of turbulence generated by breaking waves in water of intermediate depth. Phys. Fluids 11, 3390-3400.
    • (1999) Phys. Fluids , vol.11 , pp. 3390-3400
    • Chang, K.-A.1    Liu, P.L.-F.2
  • 4
    • 0027007545 scopus 로고
    • Wave impact pressure and its effect upon bodies lying on the sea bed
    • COOKER, M. J. & PEREGRINE, D. H. 1992 Wave impact pressure and its effect upon bodies lying on the sea bed. Coastal Engng 18, 205-229.
    • (1992) Coastal Engng , vol.18 , pp. 205-229
    • Cooker, M.J.1    Peregrine, D.H.2
  • 5
    • 0030643214 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Application of a digital particle image velocimetry (DPIV) system to breaking waves in the surf zone
    • (ed. B. Edge), ASCE
    • CRAIG, K. R. & THIEKE, R. J. 1996 Application of a digital particle image velocimetry (DPIV) system to breaking waves in the surf zone. In 25th Intl Conf. on Coastal Engineering (ed. B. Edge), pp. 602-615. ASCE.
    • (1996) 25th Intl Conf. on Coastal Engineering , pp. 602-615
    • Craig, K.R.1    Thieke, R.J.2
  • 6
    • 0035298994 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Simultaneous free-surface deformation and near-surface velocity measurements
    • DABIRI, D. & GHARIB, M. 2001 Simultaneous free-surface deformation and near-surface velocity measurements. Exps. Fluids 30, 381-390.
    • (2001) Exps. Fluids , vol.30 , pp. 381-390
    • Dabiri, D.1    Gharib, M.2
  • 7
    • 0036576271 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash and zone: A review and perspectives
    • ELFRINK, B. & BALDOCK, T. 2002 Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash and zone: a review and perspectives. Coastal Engng 45, 149-167.
    • (2002) Coastal Engng , pp. 149-167
    • Elfrink, B.1    Baldock, T.2
  • 9
    • 0032748672 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Video measurements of swash zone hydrodynamics
    • FOOTE, M. & HORN, D. 1999 Video measurements of swash zone hydrodynamics. Geomorphology 29, 59-76.
    • (1999) Geomorphology , vol.29 , pp. 59-76
    • Foote, M.1    Horn, D.2
  • 10
    • 0025135880 scopus 로고
    • Computation of nonlinear wave kinematics during propagation and run-up on a slope
    • NATO ASI Series E, Kluwer
    • GRILLI, S. & SVENDSEN, I. A. 1990 Computation of nonlinear wave kinematics during propagation and run-up on a slope. In Water Wave Kinematics. NATO ASI Series E, vol. 78, pp. 387-412. Kluwer.
    • (1990) Water Wave Kinematics , vol.78 , pp. 387-412
    • Grilli, S.1    Svendsen, I.A.2
  • 12
    • 0035087273 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Solitary wave breaking on sloping beaches; 2-d two phase flow numerical simulation by sl-vof method
    • GUIGNARD, S., MARCER, R., REY, V., KHARIF, K. & FRAUNIÉ, P. 2001 Solitary wave breaking on sloping beaches; 2-d two phase flow numerical simulation by sl-vof method. Eur. J. Mech. B/Fluids 20, 57-74.
    • (2001) Eur. J. Mech. B/Fluids , vol.20 , pp. 57-74
    • Guignard, S.1    Marcer, R.2    Rey, V.3    Kharif, K.4    Fraunié, P.5
  • 13
    • 0018654987 scopus 로고
    • Surf and run-up on a beach: A uniform bore
    • HIBBERD, S. & PEREGRINE, D. H. 1979 Surf and run-up on a beach: a uniform bore. J. Fluid Mech. 95, 323-345.
    • (1979) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.95 , pp. 323-345
    • Hibberd, S.1    Peregrine, D.H.2
  • 14
    • 0031356466 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Particle image velocimetry for predictions of acceleration fields and force within fluid flows
    • JAKOBSEN, M. L., DEWHIRST, T. P. & GREATED, C. A. 1997 Particle image velocimetry for predictions of acceleration fields and force within fluid flows. Meas. Sci. Technol. 8, 1502-1516.
    • (1997) Meas. Sci. Technol. , vol.8 , pp. 1502-1516
    • Jakobsen, M.L.1    Dewhirst, T.P.2    Greated, C.A.3
  • 15
    • 0036605712 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A note on the difference in the speed of gravity waves in a physical and numerical wave tank
    • JENSEN, A. & GRUE, J. 2002 A note on the difference in the speed of gravity waves in a physical and numerical wave tank. Wave Motion 36, 41-48.
    • (2002) Wave Motion , vol.36 , pp. 41-48
    • Jensen, A.1    Grue, J.2
  • 16
    • 0035327338 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Accelerations in water waves by extended particle image velocimetry
    • JENSEN, A., SVEEN, J. K., GRUE, J., RICHON, J.-B. & GRAY, C. 2001 Accelerations in water waves by extended particle image velocimetry. Exps. Fluids 30, 500-510.
    • (2001) Exps. Fluids , vol.30 , pp. 500-510
    • Jensen, A.1    Sveen, J.K.2    Grue, J.3    Richon, J.-B.4    Gray, C.5
  • 17
    • 0033619901 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A numerical model for run-up of breaking waves
    • JOHNSGARD, H. 1999 A numerical model for run-up of breaking waves. Intl J. Numer. Meth. Fluids 31, 1321-1331.
    • (1999) Intl J. Numer. Meth. Fluids , vol.31 , pp. 1321-1331
    • Johnsgard, H.1
  • 18
    • 0031147870 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A numerical model for three-dimensional run-up
    • JOHNSGARD, H. & PEDERSEN, G. 1997 A numerical model for three-dimensional run-up. Intl J. Numer. Meth. Fluids 24, 913-931.
    • (1997) Intl J. Numer. Meth. Fluids , vol.24 , pp. 913-931
    • Johnsgard, H.1    Pedersen, G.2
  • 20
    • 0001294488 scopus 로고
    • Gradual damping of solitary waves
    • KEULEGAN, G. H. 1948 Gradual damping of solitary waves. J. Res. Natl Bur. Stand. 40, 497 498.
    • (1948) J. Res. Natl Bur. Stand. , vol.40 , pp. 497-498
    • Keulegan, G.H.1
  • 21
    • 0027804940 scopus 로고
    • Numerical simulation of two-dimensional tsunami run-up
    • KOWALIK, Z. & MURTY, T. S. 1993 Numerical simulation of two-dimensional tsunami run-up. Marine Geodesy 16, 87 100.
    • (1993) Marine Geodesy , vol.16 , pp. 87-100
    • Kowalik, Z.1    Murty, T.S.2
  • 22
    • 0038068715 scopus 로고
    • Cand. real. thesis. Dept. of Mathematics, University of Oslo
    • LANGSHOLT, M. 1981 Experimental study of wave run-up. Cand. real. thesis. Dept. of Mathematics, University of Oslo.
    • (1981) Experimental Study of Wave Run-up
    • Langsholt, M.1
  • 25
    • 0032021727 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone
    • LIN, P. & LIU, P. L.-F. 1998a A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone. J. Fluid Mech. 359, 239 264.
    • (1998) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.359 , pp. 239-264
    • Lin, P.1    Liu, P.L.-F.2
  • 26
    • 1542779819 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Turbulence transport, vorticity dynamics, and solute mixing under plunging breaking waves in surf zone
    • LIN, P. & LIU, P. L.-F. 1998b Turbulence transport, vorticity dynamics, and solute mixing under plunging breaking waves in surf zone. J. Geophys. Res. 103, 15677-15694.
    • (1998) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.103 , pp. 15677-15694
    • Lin, P.1    Liu, P.L.-F.2
  • 27
    • 0036565416 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Turbulence in the swash and surf zones: A review
    • LONGO, S., PETTI, M. & LOSADA, I. J. 2002 Turbulence in the swash and surf zones: a review. Coastal Engng 45, 129 147.
    • (2002) Coastal Engng , vol.45 , pp. 129-147
    • Longo, S.1    Petti, M.2    Losada, I.J.3
  • 30
    • 0024698828 scopus 로고
    • Structure of the turbulent flow field under breaking waves in the surf zone
    • NADOAKA, K., HINO, M. & KOYANO, Y. 1989 Structure of the turbulent flow field under breaking waves in the surf zone. J. Fluid Mech. 204, 359 387.
    • (1989) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.204 , pp. 359-387
    • Nadoaka, K.1    Hino, M.2    Koyano, Y.3
  • 32
    • 0020828626 scopus 로고
    • Run-up of solitary waves
    • referred to herein as PG
    • PEDERSEN, G. & GJEVIK, B. 1983 Run-up of solitary waves. J. Fluid Mech. 135, 283-299 (referred to herein as PG).
    • (1983) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.135 , pp. 283-299
    • Pedersen, G.1    Gjevik, B.2
  • 33
    • 0035839199 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Swash overtopping a truncated plane beach
    • PEREGRINE, D. H. & WILLIAMS, S. M. 2001 Swash overtopping a truncated plane beach. J. Fluid Mech. 440, 391 399.
    • (2001) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.440 , pp. 391-399
    • Peregrine, D.H.1    Williams, S.M.2
  • 34
    • 0035340468 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Turbulence experiments in the swash zone
    • PETTI, M. & LONGO, S. 2001 Turbulence experiments in the swash zone. Coastal Engng 43, 1 24.
    • (2001) Coastal Engng , vol.43 , pp. 1-24
    • Petti, M.1    Longo, S.2
  • 35
    • 0033669467 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Swash zone sediment suspension and transport and the importance of bore-generated turbulence
    • PULEO, J. A., BEACH, R. A., HOLMAN, R. A. & ALLEN, J. S. 2000 Swash zone sediment suspension and transport and the importance of bore-generated turbulence. J. Geophys. Res. 105 (C7), 17021 17044.
    • (2000) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.105 , Issue.7 C , pp. 17021-17044
    • Puleo, J.A.1    Beach, R.A.2    Holman, R.A.3    Allen, J.S.4
  • 37
    • 84958439818 scopus 로고
    • Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 3. Run-up
    • SHEN, M. C. & MEYER, R. E. 1963 Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 3. Run-up. J. Fluid Mech. 16, 113 125.
    • (1963) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.16 , pp. 113-125
    • Shen, M.C.1    Meyer, R.E.2
  • 38
    • 0017444028 scopus 로고
    • Transformation of nonlinear long waves
    • SHUTO, N. 1976 Transformation of nonlinear long waves. Coastal Engng pp. 423-440.
    • (1976) Coastal Engng , pp. 423-440
    • Shuto, N.1
  • 41
    • 0023563975 scopus 로고
    • The run-up of solitary waves
    • SYNOLAKIS, C. E. 1987 The run-up of solitary waves. J. Fluid Mech. 185, 523-545.
    • (1987) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.185 , pp. 523-545
    • Synolakis, C.E.1
  • 42
  • 43
    • 0027788407 scopus 로고
    • Evolution of maximum amplitude of solitary waves on plane beaches
    • SYNOLAKIS, C. E. & SKJELBREIA, J. E. 1993 Evolution of maximum amplitude of solitary waves on plane beaches. J. Waterway. Port. Coastal, Ocean Engng 119 (3), 323-342.
    • (1993) J. Waterway. Port. Coastal, Ocean Engng , vol.119 , Issue.3 , pp. 323-342
    • Synolakis, C.E.1    Skjelbreia, J.E.2
  • 44
    • 0022520121 scopus 로고
    • The stability of solitary waves
    • TANAKA, M. 1986 The stability of solitary waves. Phys. Fluids 29, 650 655.
    • (1986) Phys. Fluids , vol.29 , pp. 650-655
    • Tanaka, M.1
  • 45
    • 0028976464 scopus 로고
    • Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a strong plunging breaker
    • TING, F. C. K. & KIRBY, J. T. 1995 Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a strong plunging breaker. Coastal Engng 24, 177 204.
    • (1995) Coastal Engng , vol.24 , pp. 177-204
    • Ting, F.C.K.1    Kirby, J.T.2
  • 46
    • 0030199789 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a spilling breaker
    • TING, F. C. K. & KIRBY, J. T. 1996 Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a spilling breaker. Coastal Engng 27, 131 160.
    • (1996) Coastal Engng , vol.27 , pp. 131-160
    • Ting, F.C.K.1    Kirby, J.T.2
  • 48
    • 0037378482 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Modeling of run-up of steep non-breaking waves
    • WOOD, D., PEDERSEN, G. & JENSEN, A. 2003 Modeling of run-up of steep non-breaking waves. Ocean Engng 30, 625 644.
    • (2003) Ocean Engng , vol.30 , pp. 625-644
    • Wood, D.1    Pedersen, G.2    Jensen, A.3
  • 49
    • 0025158795 scopus 로고
    • A Lagrangian model for wave-induced harbour oscillations
    • ZELT, J. & RAICHLEN, F. 1990 A Lagrangian model for wave-induced harbour oscillations. J. Fluid Mech. 213, 203 225.
    • (1990) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.213 , pp. 203-225
    • Zelt, J.1    Raichlen, F.2


* 이 정보는 Elsevier사의 SCOPUS DB에서 KISTI가 분석하여 추출한 것입니다.