Climbing-specific finger endurance: A comparative study of intermediate rock climbers, rowers and aerobically trained individuals

Journal of Sports Sciences

Volumn 21, Issue 8, 2003, Pages 621-630

  Grant, S ^a   Shields, C ^a   Fitzpatrick, V ^a   Loh, W Ming ^a   Whitaker, A ^b   Watt, I ^a   Kay, J W ^b  

^a UNIVERSITY OF GLASGOW   (United Kingdom)

^b UNIVERSITY OF GLASGOW   (United Kingdom)

Author keywords

Finger endurance; Finger strength; Isometric exercise; Rock climbing

Indexed keywords

LACTIC ACID;

ADAPTATION; ADULT; ARTICLE; ATHLETE; BLOOD PRESSURE MEASUREMENT; CLIMBING; COMPARATIVE STUDY; CONTROLLED STUDY; ENDURANCE; FINGER; GRIP STRENGTH; HUMAN; HUMAN EXPERIMENT; ISOMETRIC EXERCISE; LACTATE BLOOD LEVEL; LEG MOVEMENT; MALE; MUSCLE CONTRACTION; NOCICEPTION; NORMAL HUMAN; RANDOMIZATION; REST; SPORT; STATISTICAL ANALYSIS; TASK PERFORMANCE; TRAINING;

ADOLESCENT; ADULT; BLOOD PRESSURE; EXERCISE; FINGERS; HUMANS; LACTIC ACID; MALE; MUSCLE CONTRACTION; MUSCLE, SKELETAL; OXYGEN CONSUMPTION; PAIN THRESHOLD; PHYSICAL EDUCATION AND TRAINING; PHYSICAL ENDURANCE; SPORTS; TASK PERFORMANCE AND ANALYSIS;

EID: 0037622780     PISSN: 02640414     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1080/0264041031000101953     Document Type: Article

References (34)

1. Allen, D.G., Lannergren, J. and Westerblad, H. (1995). Muscle cell function during prolonged activity: Cellular mechanisms of fatigue. Experimental Physiology, 80, 497-527.
2. Barnes, W.S. (1980). The relationship between maximum isometric strength and intramuscular circulatory occlusion. Ergonomics, 23, 351-357.
3. Booth, J., Marino, F., Hill, C. and Gwinn, T. (1999). Energy cost of sport rock climbing in elite performers. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 33, 14-18.
4. Brooks, G. (1991). Current concepts in lactate exchange. Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise, 23, 895-906.
5. Cady, E.B., Jones, D.A., Lynn, J. and Newham, D.J. (1989). Changes in force and intracellular metabolites during fatigue of human skeletal muscle. Journal of Physiology, 418, 311-325.
6. Carlson, B. (1969). Level of maximum isometric strength and relative load isometric endurance. Ergonomics, 12, 429-435.
7. Carlson, B. and McCraw, L. (1971). Isometric strength and relative isometric endurance. Research Quarterly, 42, 244-250.
8. Delp, M.D. (1995). Effects of exercise training on endothelium-dependent peripheral vascular responses. Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise, 27, 1152-1157.
9. Duchateau, J. and Hainaut, K. (1984). Isometric or dynamic training: Differentiated effects on mechanical properties of human muscle. Journal of Applied Physiology, 56, 296.
10. Durnin, J.V.G.A. and Womersley, J. (1974). Body fat assessed from total body density and its estimation from skinfold thickness: Measurements on 481 men and women aged 16-72 years. British Journal of Nutrition, 32, 77-97.
11. Ferguson, R.A. and Brown, M.D. (1997). Arterial blood pressure and forearm vascular conductance responses to sustained and rhythmic isometric exercise and arterial occlusion in trained rock climbers and untrained sedentary subjects. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 76, 174-180.
12. Fisher, W.J. and White, M.J. (1999). Training-induced adaptations in the central command and peripheral reflex components of the pressor response to isometric exercise of the human triceps surae. Journal of Physiology, 520, 621-628.
13. Gollnick, P.D. and Saltin, B. (1982). Hypothesis: Significance of skeletal muscle oxidative enzyme enhancement with endurance training. Clinical Physiologist, 2, 1-12.
14. Grant, S., Hynes, V., Whittaker, A. and Aitchison, T. (1996). Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences, 14, 301-309.
15. 2 responses of McArdle's disease patients. Federation Proceedings, 3, A849.
16. Hermansen, L. and Wachtlova, M. (1971). Capillary density of skeletal muscle in well-trained and untrained men. Journal of Applied Physiology, 30, 860-863.
17. Jackson, A.S. and Pollock, M.L. (1985). Practical assessment of body composition. Physician and Sportsmedicine, 13, 76-90.
18. Jones, D.A. and Round, J.M. (1990). Skeletal Muscle in Health and Disease. Manchester: Manchester University Press.
19. Koukoubis, T.D., Cooper, L.W. and Glisoson, R.R. (1995). An electromyographic study of arm muscles during climbing. Knee Surgery, Sports Traumatology, Arthroscopy, 3, 121-124.
20. Mermier, C.M., Robergs, R.A., McMinn, S.M. and Heyward, V.H. (1997). Energy expenditure and physiological responses during indoor rock climbing. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 31, 224-228.
21. Mermier, C.M., Janot, J.M. and Parker, D.L. (2000). Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 34, 359-365.
22. Sale, D. and McDougall, D. (1981). Specificity in strength training. Canadian Journal of Applied Sports Science, 6, 87-92.
23. Satio, M., Watanabe, H. and Mano, T. (1993). Comparison of muscle sympathetic nerve activity during exercise in dominant and non-dominant forearm. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 66, 108-115.
24. Seals, D.R. (1991). Sympathetic neural adjustments to stress in physically trained and untrained humans. Hypertension, 17, 36-43.
25. Shea, K.G., Shea, O.F. and Meals, R.A. (1992). Manual demands and consequences of rock climbing. Journal of Hand Surgery, 17, 200-205.
26. Sinning, W.E. and Wilson, J.R. (1984). Validity of 'generalised' equations for body composition analysis in women athletes. Research Quarterly, 55, 153-160.
27. Sinoway, L.I., Musch, T.I., Minotti, J.R. and Zelis, R. (1986). Enhanced maximal metabolic vasodilation in the dominant forearms of tennis players. Journal of Applied Physiology 61, 673-678.
28. Smolander, J. (1994). Capacity for vasodilatation in the forearms of manual and office workers. European Journal of Applied Physiology 69, 163-167.
29. Snell, P.G., Martion, W.H., Buckey, J.C. and Blomqvist, C.G. (1987). Maximal vascular leg conductance in trained and untrained men. Journal of Applied Physiology 62, 606-610.
30. Watts, P.B., Martin, D.T. and Durtschi, S. (1993). Anthropometric profiles of elite male and female competitive sport rock climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences, 11, 113-117.
31. Watts, P.B., Newbury, V. and Sulentic, J. (1996). Acute changes in handgrip strength, endurance and blood lactate with sustained rock climbing. Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness, 36, 255-260.
32. Watts, P.B., Dagget, M. and Gallacher, P. (2000). Metabolic responses during sport rock climbing and the effects of active versus passive recovery. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 21, 185-190.
33. Webster, J., Newnham, D., Petrie, J.C. and Lovell, H.G. (1984). Influence of arm position on measurement of blood pressure. British Medical Journal, 288, 1574-1575.
34. Westerblad, H. and Allen, D.G. (1993). The influence of intracellular pH on contraction, relaxation and Ca in intact single fibres from mouse muscle. Journal of Phsiology, 466, 611-628.