Tidal inlet function: Field evidence and numerical simulation in the INDIA project

Journal of Coastal Research

Volumn 19, Issue 1, 2003, Pages 189-211

  Williams, J J ^a   O'Connor, B A ^b   Arens, S M ^c   Abadie, S ^d   Bell, P ^a   Balouin, Y ^e   Van Boxel, J H ^c   Do Carmo, A J ^f   Davidson, M ^g   Ferreira, O ^h   Heron, M ⁱ   Howa, H ^e   Hughes, Z ^a   Kaczmarek, L M ^j   Kim, H ^k   Morris, B ^g   Nicholson, J ^b   Pan, S ^b   Salles, P ⁿ   Silva, A ^l   Smith, J ^b   Soares, C ^m   Vila Concejo, A ^h   more..

^a NATIONAL OCEANOGRAPHY CENTRE   (United Kingdom)

^b UNIVERSITY OF LIVERPOOL   (United Kingdom)

^c UNIVERSITY OF AMSTERDAM   (Netherlands)

^d Lab Sci Appliquees au Genie Civ   (France)

^e UNIVERSITÉ DE BORDEAUX   (France)

^f UNIVERSITY OF COIMBRA   (Portugal)

^g UNIVERSITY OF PLYMOUTH   (United Kingdom)

^h UNIVERSITY OF ALGARVE   (Portugal)

ⁱ JAMES COOK UNIVERSITY   (Australia)

^j INSTITUTE OF HYDRO ENGINEERING   (Poland)

^k Kookmin University   (South Korea)

^l HIDROMOD   (Portugal)

^m INSTITUTO HIDROGRÁFICO   (Portugal)

ⁿ University of Liverpool ^*

more..

Author keywords

Algarve; Erosion; Inlet dynamics; Inlet evolution; Migration; Portugal; R a Formosa

Indexed keywords

LANDFORM EVOLUTION; NUMERICAL MODEL; TIDAL INLET;

PORTUGAL;

EID: 0037413112     PISSN: 07490208     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: None     Document Type: Article

References (90)

1. ABADE S.; BONNINGTON, P., and CALTAGIRONE, J. P., 1998. Numerical simulation of plunging breaker. Lecture Notes in Physics, 16th International Conference on Numerical Methods in Fluid Dynamics, 515, 458-463.
2. ANDRADE, C. F., 1990. O ambiente de barreira da Ría Formosa, Algarve, Portugal. PhD Thesis, University of Lisboa, 645pp (in Portuguese).
3. ARENS, S. M. and VAN BOXEL, J. H., 2000. Aeolian field equipment. INDIA workshop, 3rd Symposium on the Iberian Atlantic Margin (25-27 September 2000, University of Algarve), Faro, Portugal.
4. BALOUIN, Y. and HOWA, H., 2000a. Morphodynamics of a swash bar in the context of the evolution of a swash platform associated to an ebb delta. Proceedings of the International Workshop on Marine Sandwave Dynamics (Lille: March 2000), pp. 1-7.
5. BALOUIN, Y. and HOWA, H., 2000b. Sediment transport pattern at the Barra Nova, south Portugal: a conceptual model. Geo-Marine Letters (submitted).
6. BALOUIN, Y.; HOWA, H., and MICHEL, D., 2000. Construction of the swash platform associated to an ebb-tidal delta during fair weather conditions, The Barra Nova Inlet, South Portugal. Journal of Coastal Research (submitted).
7. BELL, P. 1995. Coastal wave monitoring of nearshore wave climate using X-band radar. Proceedings of the WMO/IOC Workshop on Operational Ocean Monitoring Using Surface Based Radars (6-8 March, 1995, Geneva), 6p.
8. BERNARD, P. L. and DAVIS, R. A., 1999. Anthropogenic vs. natural influences on tidal inlet evolution: west-central Florida. Proceedings of Coastal Sediments '99 (American Society of Civil Engineers), pp. 1489-1504.
9. BETTENCOURT, P., 1988. Apports de l'Étude Sedimetologique a la Comprehension de l'Evolution d'un System d'Iles Barrières (Algarve, Sud Portugal). Bulletin Institute Geology Bassin D'Aquitaine, Bordeaux, 44, 81-96.
10. BETTENCOURT, P., 1994. Les Environnements Sedimentaires de la Côte Sotavento (Algarve, Sud Portugal) et leur Évolution Holocéne et Actuelle. PhD Thesis. University of Bordeaux I. 2 volumes (in French).
11. BOOTHROYD, J. C., 1985. Tidal inlets and tidal deltas. In: DAVIS JR., R. A. (Ed.), Coastal Sedimentary Environments. Springer-Verlag, New York, 445-532.
12. BOOIJ, N.; RIS, R. C., and HOLTHUIJSEN, L. H., 1999. A third-generation wave model for coastal regions - 1. Model description and validation, Journal of Geophysical Research, 104, 7649-7666.
13. BOXEL, J. H.; ARENS, S. M., and DIJK, P. M., 1999. Aeolian processes across transverse dunes II: modelling the air flow. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 24, 255-270.
14. BRUUN, P., 1966. Tidal Inlets and Littoral Drift. v. 2. Oslo: Universitesforlaget, 193p.
15. BRUUN, P., 1978. Stability of Tidal Inlets. Amsterdam: Elsevier, 506p.
16. BRUUN, P. and GERRITSEN, F., 1959. Natural bypassing of sand at coastal inlets. Journal of the Waterways and Harbours Division (American Society of Civil Engineers), 85, 75-107.
17. DAVIS, R. A., 1994. Geology of holocene barrier island systems. Berlin: Springer Verlag.
18. DO CARMO, A. J. and SEABRA-SANTOS, F. J., 1998. A numerical hybrid model for the solution of Boussinesq-type equations. In: BLAIN, W. R. (ed.), Hydraulic Engineering Software VII, WIT Press, pp. 577-586.
19. DIAS, J. A.; FERREIRA, Ó.; MATIAS, A.; VILA-CONCEJO, A., and SÁPIRES, C., 2000. Evaluation of soft protection techniques in barrier islands by monitoring programmes: case studies from Ría Formosa (Algarve, Portugal). Marine Geology (submitted).
20. DIJK, P. M.; ARENS, S. M., and BOXEL, J. H., 1999. Aeolian processes across transverse dunes II: modelling the sediment transport and profile development. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 24, 319-333.
21. ESCOFFIER, F. F., 1940. The stability of tidal inlets. Shore and Beach, 8, 114-115.
22. ESAGUY, E., 1986. Ría de Faro, Ilha do Ancão. Evolução 1950-1985. Direcção Geral de Portos. Internal Repor, 7 pp (in Portuguese)
23. EVANS, J. C.; SMITH, J. S.; MARTIN, P., and WONG, Y. S., 2000. Beach and near-shore crawling UUV for oceanographic measurements. Proceedings Oceans '99, MTS / IEEE International Conference (Seattle, Washington, USA, Sept 1999), pp. 1300-1306.
24. FITZGERALD, D. M., 1996. Geomorphic variability and morphologic and sedimentlogic controls on tidal deltas. Journal of Coastal Research, SI No. 23, 47-71.
25. FITZGERALD, D. M.; KRAUS, N. C., and HANDS, E. B., 2000. Natural mechanisms of sediment bypassing at tidal inlets. ERDC/CHL-IV, U. S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, MS, 11p.
26. GAO, S. and COLLINS, M. B., 1992. Net sediment transport patters inferred from grain size trends, based upon definition of transport vectors. Sedimentary Geology, 81, 47-61.
27. GIBEAUT, J. C. and DAVIS, R. A., 1993. Statistical classification of ebb deltas along the west-central Florida coast. Journal of Coastal Research, SI No. 18, 165-184.
28. GRANJA, H., 1984. Étude Géomorphologique, Sédimentologique et géochimique de la Ría Formosa (Algarve - Portugal). PhD Thesis. University of Bordeaux I, 254 pp. (in French).
29. HARRIS, J. and O'CONNOR, B. A., 2001. Modelling random wave boundary layers. Journal of Coastal Engineering (Submitted).
30. HAYES, M. O.; GOLDSMITH, V., and HOBB, C. H., 1970. Offset coastal inlets. Proceedings 12th Coastal Engineering Conference, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1187-1200.
31. HAYES, M. O., 1980. General morphological and sediment patterns in tidal inlets. Sedimentary Geology, 26, 139-156.
32. HERON, M. L. and PRYTZ, A., 2000. VHF ocean surface radar measurements in the Inlet Dynamics Initiative: Algarve (INDIA) Project. Paper 339, Book of Abstracts, 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering (Sydney, American Society of Civil Engineers).
33. HICKS, D. M. and HUME, T. M., 1997. Determining sand volume and bathymetric change on an ebb-tidal delta. Journal of Coastal Research, 13(2), 407-416.
34. HOWA, H. and DE RESSEGUIER, A., 1994. Application of a fluorescent grain detector/counter for sand transport evaluation in the littoral zone. Proceedings of Ocean OSATES 94, 3, 254-257.
35. HOWA, H.; DE RESSEGUIER, A., and MICHEL, D., 1997. Quantification des déplacements sableux en domaine littoral - Calculs théoriques et traçages fluorescents. Colloque Franco Brésilien, Aquitaine Ocean, 3, 79-91.
36. HOWELL, G. L., 1996. A comprehensive field study of tidal inlet processes at Ponce de Leon Inlet, Florida. Proceedings, 25th Coastal Engineering Conference, American Society of Civil Engineers (New York) 3, 3323-3336.
37. HUGHES, S. A., 1993. Physical Models and Laboratory Techniques in Coastal Engineering. Singapore: Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Vol. 7. World Scientific.
38. HUGHES, A. and HUGHES, Z., 2000. Settling velocity and carbonate content analysis of samples collected near Barra Nova, Ría Formosa, Algarve, SOES, University of Southampton, UK, Report No. SOES 00/3.1.
39. HUMPHERY, J. D.; BANASZEK, A. D., and WILLIAMS, J. J., 1999. Deployment and recovery of offshore moorings for the MAST3 INDIA Project (INlet Dynamics Initiative - Algarve), CCMS POL Cruise Report No. 34, 21pp, (unpublished manuscript).
40. JACOB, J. M. Q. B. and EÇA, L., 1999. An efficient numerical method for the solution of the 2D compressible Navier-Stokes equations. IV Congresso en Métodos Numéricos en Ingeniéra, Servilla, Spain.
41. KACZMAREK, L. M. and OSTROWSKI, R., 1999. Modelling of a three layer sediment transport system in oscillatory flow. Proceedings, 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 2559-2572.
42. KAMPHUIS, J.W.; DAVIES, M.H.; NAIRN, R.B., and SAYAO, O.J., 1986. Calculation of littoral sand transport rate. Coastal Engineering, 10, 1-21.
43. KAMPHUIS, J. W., 1991. Alongshore sediment transport rate. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 117(6), 624-640.
44. KANA, T. and STEVENS, F., 1992. Coastal geomorphology and sand budgets applied to beach nourishment. Proceedings of Coastal Engineering Practice '92 (American Society of Civil Engineers, Reston, Virginia), pp. 29-44.
45. KANA, T. W.; Hayter, E. J., and WORK, P. A., 1998. Mesoscale sediment transport at South-eastern U.S. Tidal Inlets: Conceptual Model Applicable to Mixed Energy Settings. Journal of Coastal Research, 15, 303-313.
46. KEULEGAN, G. H., 1951. Tidal flows in entrances: water level fluctuations of basins. In: Communication with Seas, Third Progress Report, National Bureau of Standards, Report No. 1146.
47. KIM, H.; O'CONNOR, B. A., and SHIM, Y., 1995. Numerical modelling of flow over ripples using SOLA method. Proceedings, 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering (American Society of Civil Engineers), pp. 2140-2154.
48. KOMEN, G. J.; Cavaleri, L.; Donelan, M.; Hasselmann, K.; Hasselmann, S., and JANSSEN, P. A. E., 1994. Dynamics and modelling of ocean waves, Cambridge University Press.
49. KOMAR, P. D., 1996. Tidal-inlet processes and morphology related to the transport of sediments. Journal of Coastal Research, SI No. 23, 23-46.
50. KRAUS, N. C. and ROSATI, J. D., 1998. Estimation of uncertainty in coastal sediment budgets at inlets. Coastal Engineering Technical Note CETN-IV-16, U. S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, Mississippi, 12p.
51. KRAUS, N. C., 1999. Analytical model of spit evolution at inlets. Proceedings Coastal Sediments '99 (American Society of Civil Engineers, New York), pp. 1739-1754.
52. KRAUS, N. C. and MILITELLO, A., 1999. Hydraulic study of multiple inlet systems: East Matagorda Bay, Texas. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 125(3), 224-232.
53. MANN, D. W., 1993. A note on littoral budgets and sand management at inlets. Journal of Coastal research, Special Issue No. 18, 301-308.
54. MEHTA, A. J., 1996. A perspective on process related research needs for sandy inlets. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 23, 3-21.
55. MONBALIU, J.; Padilla-Hernandez, R.; Hargreaves, J. C.; Carretero Albiach, J. C.; Luo, W.; Sclavo, M., and GUNTHER, H., 2000. The spectral wave model, WAM, adapted for applications with high spatial resolutions, Coastal Engineering, 41, 41-62.
56. MORRIS, B. D.; DAVIDSON, M. A., and HUNTLEY, D. A., 2001. Measurements of the response of a coastal inlet using video monitoring techniques, Marine Geology, 175, 251-272.
57. MUIR-WOOD, A. and FLEMMING, C., 1981. Coastal Hydraulics. MacMillan, London.
58. NUMMEDAL, D., 1983. Barrier Islands. In: KOMAR, P.D. (ed.), Handbook of Coastal Processes and Erosion. Boca Baton: CRC Press, 77-122.
59. O'CONNOR, B. A., 1992. Prediction of seabed sand waves. In: PARTRIDGE, P. W. (ed.), Computer modelling of sea and coastal regions, Computational Mechanics, Elsevier, 321-338.
60. O'CONNOR B. A.; HARRIS, J. M.; KIM, H., WONG, Y. K., OEBIUS, H. U., and WILLIAMS, J. J., 1992. Bed boundary layers. Proceedings, 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering (American Society of Civil Engineers), pp. 2307-2320.
61. O'CONNOR, B. A.; PAN, S.; PIRES, H. O.; DIAS, J. M. A.; SILVA, A. J. R.; HALE, I.; ROSE, C., and WILLIAMS, J. J., 1998a. Environmental Data, Peninsula do Ancão, Algarve. University of Liverpool, Department of Civil Engineering, Report CE/02/98, 64p.
62. O'CONNOR, B. A.; PAN, S.; NICHOLSON, J.; MACDONALD, N., and HUNTLEY, D. A., 1998b. A 2D model of waves and undertow in the surf zone. Proceedings, 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering (American Society of Civil Engineers), pp. 286-296.
63. O'CONNOR, B. A.; HALE, I. P.; PAN, S.; ROSE, C. P.; WILLIAMS, J. J.; BELL, P., and THORNE, P. D., 2000a. Sediment transport in the Barra Nova inlet, Portugal. In: RODRIGUEZ, G. R., BREBBIA, C. A., and PEREZ-MARTELL, E. (eds.), Environmental Coastal Regions III, WIT Press, pp. 227-239.
64. O'CONNOR, B. A.; PAN, S.; HERON, M.; WILLIAMS, J. J.; VOULGARIS, G., and SILVA, A., 2000b. Hydrodynamic modelling of a dynamic inlet. Coastal Engineering 2000 (American Society of Civil Engineers), 4, 3472-3481.
65. OERTEL, G. F., 1972. Sediment transport on estuary entrance shoals and the formation of swash platforms. Journal of Sedimentary Petrology, 42, 858-868.
66. PILKEY, O. H.; NEAL, W. J.; MONTEIRO, J. H., and DIAS, J. M. A., 1989. Algarve Barrier Islands: A Non-coastal-Plain System in Portugal. Journal of Coastal Research, 5(2): 239-261.
67. PINES, O. H., 1998. Project INDIA: Preliminary report on wave climate at Faro. Instituto de Meterologica, IST, Lisboa, Portugal, 36p.
68. PRATT, T. C.; FAGERBURG, T., and MCVAN, D. C., 2000. Field data collection at coastal inlets. Coastal Engineering Technical Note CETN-IV-24, U. S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, Mississippi, 12p.
69. ROSATI, J. D. and KRAUS, N. C., 1999. Formulation of sediment budgets at inlets. Coastal Engineering Technical Note CETN-IV-15, U. S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, Mississippi, 20p.
70. ROSATI, J. D.; GRAVENS, M. B., and GRAY-SMITH, W., 1999. Regional sediment budget for Fire Island to Montauk Point, New York. Proceedings Coastal Sediments '99 (American Society of Civil Engineers, New York), pp. 802-817.
71. SALLES, P., 2000a. Hydrodynamic Controls on Multiple Tidal Inlet Persistence. PhD Thesis Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 266p.
72. SALLES, P., 2000b. Numerical Simulations of the hydrodynamic response to inlet disturbances at Ría Formosa, Portugal. Continental Shelf Research (submitted).
73. SANCHO, F. E. P.; SVNDSEN, I. A., and HAAS, K. A., 2000. Modelling of wave-induced currents at an inlet, Book of Abstract of ICCE 2000, 2p.
74. SEABERGH, W. C., 1999. Physical models for coastal inlet entrance studies. Coastal Engineering Technical Note CETN-IV-19, U. S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, Mississippi, 6p.
75. SKOU, A. and FREDSØE, J., 1990. Prediction of the dimensions of tidal inlets. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 9, 894-910.
76. SOULSBY, R. L., 1997. Dynamics of Marine Sands: A Manual for Practical Applications. Thomas Telford Publications, 249p.
77. SPEER, P. E. and AUBREY, D. G., 1985. A study of non-linear tidal propagation in shallow inlet/estuarine systems. Part II: Theory. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 21, 207-224.
78. STAUBLE, D. K., 1998. Techniques for measuring and analysing inlet ebb-shoal evolution. Coastal Engineering Technical Note CETN-IV-13, U. S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, Mississippi, 12p.
79. STEIJN, R., 1991. Some considerations on tidal inlets. Report H840.45, Delft Hydraulics, Delft, The Netherlands.
80. TANAKA, H.; KABUTOYAMA, H., and SHUTO, N., 1995. Numerical model for predicting the seasonal migration of a river mouth. Proceedings, Computer Modelling of seas and Coastal Regions, pp. 345-352.
81. VAN DER KREEKE, J., 1996. Morphological change on a decadal time scale in tidal inlets: modelling approaches. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 23, 73-81.
82. VAN RIJN, L. C., 1989. Handbook of Sediment Transport by Currents and Waves. Delft Hydraulics Report H461.
83. VAN RIJN, L. C., 1993. Principals of Sediment Transport in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas. Amsterdam, The Netherlands: Aqua Publications.
84. VILA-CONCEJO, A.; DIAS, J. M. A.; FERREIRA, Ó., and MATIAS, A., 1999. Natural evolution of an artificial inlet. In: 4th International Conference on Coastal Sediments, 1478-1488.
85. VILA-CONCEJO, A.; FERREIRA, Ó., and DIAS, J. M. A., 2000. The first two years of an inlet: sediment dynamics. Continental Shelf Research (submitted).
86. WALKER, J. R. and DUNHAM, J. W., 1977. Lake Worth Inlet: case study. Proceedings Coastal Sediments '77 (American Society of Civil Engineers, New Youk), pp. 602-621.
87. WEINHOLTZ, M., 1964. O Cordão Litoral da Ría de Faro e a sua Utilização para Fins turísticos e Balneares - Contribuição para o Estudo da Evolução das Flechas de Areia na Costa Sotavento do Algarve. Separata Bol. Trimestral de Inf. Geral Serv. Hidr. Vol. 14. (in Portuguese)
88. WILLIAMS, J. J.; ARENS, B.; AUBREY, D.; BELL, P.; BIZZARO, A.; COLLINS, M.; DAVIDSON, M.; DIAS, J.; FERREIRA, O.; HERON, M.; HOWA, H.; HUGHES, Z.; HUNTLEY, D.; JONES, M. T.; O'CONNOR, B.; PAN, S.; SARMENTO, A.; SEABRA-SANTOS, F.; SHAYLER, S.; SMITH, J., and VOULGARIS, G., 1999. Inlet Dynamics Initiative: Algarve (INDIA). Proceedings Coastal Sediments '99 (ASCE, Long Island), pp. 612-627.
89. WILLIAMS, J. J.; BELL, P., and THORNE, P. D., 2000b. Measurements of hydrodynamic conditions, sediment transport and bed morphology in a tidal inlet. In: RODRIGUEZ, G. R.; BREBBIA, C. A., and PEREZ-MARTELL, E. (eds.), Environmental Coastal Regions III, WIT Press, 261-270.
90. WILLIAMS, J. J.; BELL, P., and THORNE, P. D., 2002. Field measurements of flow fields and sediment transport above mobile bed-forms. Journal of Geophysical Research (in press).