Erotic modesty: (Ad)dressing female sexuality and propriety in open and closed drawers, USA, 1800-1930

Gender and History

Volumn 14, Issue 3, 2002, Pages 492-515

  Fields, Jill ^a  

^a CALIFORNIA STATE UNIVERSITY   (United States)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE;

EID: 0036870034     PISSN: 09535233     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1111/1468-0424.00279     Document Type: Article

References (52)

1. Mary Ryan, 'The Projection of a New Womanhood', in Lois Scharf and Joan M. Jensen, Decades of Discontent (Greenwood Press, 1983), pp. 113-30.
2. Philippe Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie (Princeton University Press, 1994), p. 161.
3. Elizabeth Ewing, Dress and Undress (Drama Book Specialists, 1978)
4. Cecil Saint Laurent, The Great Book of Lingerie (Vendome Press, 1986);
5. Alison Carter, Underwear (Drama Book Publishers, 1992)
6. Christine Stansell, City of Women (University of Illinois Press, 1982), pp. 4-5
7. Helen Bradley Foster, New Raiments of Self: African American Clothing in the Antebellum South (Berg, 1997), pp. 147-9;
8. Deborah Gray White, Ar'n't I a Woman? (W. W. Norton, 1985, 1991), pp. 32-3.
9. Lynn Hunt, Politics, Culture and Class in the French Revolution (University of California Press, 1984), pp. 66-7.
10. Jill Fields, 'Three Sides to Every Story: The Material Culture of Intimate Apparel', Dress, 23 (1996), 75-81;
11. Farid Chenoune, Beneath It All: A Century of French Lingerie (Rizzoli, 1999), especially ch. 1, fn. 11, pp. 22, 25;
12. J. C. Flugel, The Psychology of Clothes (Hogarth Press, 1930);
13. James Laver, A Concise History of Costume and Fashion (Scribner's, 1969);
14. Valerie Steele, Fashion and Eroticism (Oxford University Press, 1985), pp. 198-9;
15. Fred Davis, Fashion, Culture and Identity (University of Chicago Press, 1992), ch. 3.
16. Ellen Ross and Rayna Rapp, 'Sex and Society', in Powers of Desire, ed. Ann Snitow, Christine Stansell and Sharon Thompson (Monthly Review Press, 1983), pp. 51-73;
17. Nancy Cott, 'Passionlessness: An Interpretation of Victorian Sexual Ideology, 1790-1850', Signs, 4 (1978), pp. 219-36;
18. Michel Foucault, The History of Sexuality (Pantheon Books, 1978); Carroll Smith-Rosenberg, Disorderly Conduct (Oxford University Press, 1985),
19. David Kunzle, Fashion and Fetishism (Rowman and Littlefield, 1982).
20. Vern Bullough and Bonnie Bullough, Cross Dressing, Sex and Gender (University of Pennsylvania Press, 1993), p. 175
21. Lois Banner, American Beauty (University of Chicago Press, 1983) p. 234;
22. James Laver, Taste and Fashion, from the French Revolution until Today (George G. Harrap & Co., 1937), pp. 168-70.
23. John Harvey, Men in Black (University of Chicago Press, 1995)
24. Sally Helvenston, 'Popular Advice for the Well Dressed Woman in the 19th Century', Dress, 5 (1980), pp. 31-46.
25. Joan Severa, Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion: 1840-1900 (Kent State University Press, 1995), pp. 25, 185, 292, 300, and photographs pp. 243, 260, 263, 285, 325, 451, 478, 494, 497, 507;
26. Estelle B. Freedman, Barbara Charlesworth Gelpi and Marilyn Yalom (associate eds), Victorian Women: A Documentary Account of Women's Lives in Nineteenth-Century England, France, and the United States (Stanford University Press, 1981);
27. Nancy L. Green, Ready-to-Wear and Ready-to-Work (Duke University Press, 1997).
28. Lee Hall, Common Threads (Little, Brown and Company, 1992), pp. 188-99,
29. Jo B. Paoletti and Carol L. Kregloh, 'The Children's Department', in Men and Women: Dressing the Part, ed. Claudia Brush Kidwell and Valerie Steele (Smithsonian Institution Press, 1989), pp. 22-41;
30. Godey's Ladies Book, April 1857, p. 362, and July 1857, p. 78;
31. Robert Holliday, Unmentionables from Figleaves to Scanties (Ray Long and Richard Smith, 1933), pp. 172-3, 179;
32. Anne Buck, Victorian Costume & Costume Accessories (Ruth Bean, 1984/1961), pp. 202, 209-10, 214, ch. 20, 'Children's Costume'; Severa, Dressed for the Photographer, pp. 23-4, 107-8, 122-3, 129, 133, 134, 144, 146, 156, 181, 210-11, 255, 281, 220, 315-16, 363-4, 428-9, 431, 447, 483;
33. Stella Blum (ed.), Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper's Bazaar, 1867-1898 (Dover Publications, 1974), pp. 116-17, 131, 143, 154-7, 168-9, 184-5, 214-15, 222-3, 251; Michelle Perrot (ed.), A History of Private Life (Harvard University Press, 1990), pp. 196-219.
34. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Infra-Apparel (Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1993), p. 62;
35. Matilda Kitchens, When Underwear Counted, Being the Evolution of Underclothes (Brannon Printing Company, 1931), p. 51;
36. Jeanette C. Lauer and Robert H. Lauer, 'The Battle of the Sexes: Fashion in 19th Century America', Journal of Popular Culture, 13 (1980), 581-9;
37. Shelley Foote, 'Challenging Gender Symbols', in Kidwell and Steele (eds), Men and Women, pp. 144-57;
38. Reina Lewis, Gendering Orientalism (Routledge, 1996), and Dianne Sachko Macleod, 'Cross-Cultural Cross-Dressing: Class, Gender and Modernist Sexual Identity', in Julie Codell and Dianne Macleod, Orientalism Transposed (Ashgate, 1998), pp. 63-85;
39. Ellen Garvey, The Adman in the Parlor (Oxford, 1996), ch. 4; Ewing, Dress and Undress, p. 64; Saint-Laurent, Great Book, p. 140;
40. Edward Van Every, Sins of America As 'Exposed' by the 'Police Gazette' (Frederick A. Stokes Company, 1931), p. 180;
41. Elizabeth Wilson and Lou Taylor, Through the Looking Glass: A History of Dress from 1860 to the Present Day (BBC Books, 1989), p. 57;
42. Alison Gernsheim, Victorian and Edwardian Fashion: A Photographic Survey (Dover Publications, c. 1981), pp. 83-6; de Marly, Fashions for Men, pp. 97-8, 109-14.
43. Gary Abrams, 'Lore Caulfield: Sexy Lingerie the Antidote for Career Dressing', Los Angeles Times, 29 April 1983.
44. Kathleen Canning, 'The Body as Method? Reflections on the Place of the Body in Gender History', Gender & History, 11 (1999), pp. 499-513.
45. Kathy Peiss, Cheap Amusements (Temple University Press, 1986), pp. 134-5; Perrot, Fashioning, p. 100; Chenoune, Beneath It All, p. 25.
46. Sara Evans, Born for Liberty (Free Press, 1989), pp. 161, 176;
47. Linda Gordon, Woman's Body, Woman's Right (Penguin, 1977), ch. 7.
48. Maureen Greenwald, Women, War, and Work (Cornell University Press, 1980), pp. 31, 48, 121.
49. Bettina Berch, Radical by Design (E. P. Dutton, 1988), pp. 61, 69.
50. Mary Louise Roberts, 'Samson and Delilah Revisited: The Politics of Women's Fashion in 1920s France', American Historical Review, 1993, p. 658;
51. Christina Simmons, 'Modern Sexuality and the Myth of Victorian Repression', in Peiss and Simmons (eds), Passion and Power, p. 171.