Claim substantiation and efficiency of hydrating body lotions and protective creams

Contact Dermatitis

Volumn 42, Issue 4, 2000, Pages 227-234

  De Paepe, Kristien ^a   Derde, Marie Paule ^a   Roseeuw, Diane ^a   Rogiers, Vera ^a  

^a VRIJE UNIVERSITEIT BRUSSEL   (Belgium)

Author keywords

Barrier creams; Bioengineering methods; Claim substantiation; Cosmetics; EU legislation; European Cosmetics Directive; Hydration; Skin barrier; SLS treatment; Stratum corneum; TEWL

Indexed keywords

DODECYL SULFATE SODIUM;

ADULT; AGED; AGING; ARTICLE; DRY SKIN; FEMALE; HUMAN; HUMAN EXPERIMENT; HYDRATION; LOTION; NORMAL HUMAN; SKIN; SKIN WATER LOSS; STRATUM CORNEUM; VALIDATION PROCESS;

AGED; ANALYSIS OF VARIANCE; BIOLOGICAL TRANSPORT, ACTIVE; EMOLLIENTS; EVALUATION STUDIES; FEMALE; HUMANS; MIDDLE AGED; OINTMENTS; PROBABILITY; SENSITIVITY AND SPECIFICITY; SKIN AGING; SKIN CARE; WATER LOSS, INSENSIBLE;

EID: 0034073712     PISSN: 01051873     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1034/j.1600-0536.2000.042004227.x     Document Type: Article

References (39)

1. Ghadially R, Brown B E, Sequeira-Martin S M, Feingold K R, Elias P M. The aged epidermal permeability barrier: Structural, functional, and lipid biochemical abnormalities in humans and a senescent murine model. J Clin Invest 1995: 95: 2281-2290.
2. Conti A, Schiavi M E, Seidenari S. Capacitance, transepidermal water loss and causal level of sebum in healthy subjects in relation to site, sex and age. Int J Cosmet Sci 1995: 17: 77-85.
3. Elias P M. Epidermal lipids, barrier function and desquamation. J Invest Dermatol 1983: 80: 44s-49s.
4. Landmann L. The epidermal permeability barrier. Anat Embryol 1988: 178: 1-13.
5. Elias P M, Feingold K R. Lipids and the epidermal water barrier: metabolism, regulation and pathophysiology. Semin Dermatol 1992: 11: 176-182.
6. Schürer N Y, Plewig G, Elias P M. Stratum corneum lipid function. Dermatologica 1991: 183: 77-94.
7. Lee S H, Elias P M, Feingold K R, Mauro T. A rôle for ions in barrier recovery after acute perturbation. J Invest Dermatol 1994: 102: 976-979.
8. Nickoloff B J, Naidu Y. Perturbation of epidermal barrier function correlates with initiation of cytokine cascade in human skin. J Am Acad Dermatol 1994: 30: 535-546.
9. Imokawa G, Abe A, Jin K, Higaki Y, Kawashima M, Hidano A. Decreased level of ceramides in SC of atopic dermatitis: an etiologic factor in atopic dry skin. J Invest Dermatol 1991: 96: 523-526.
10. Paige D G, Morse-Fischer N, Harper J I. Quantification of stratum corneum ceramides and lipid envelope ceramides in the hereditary ichthyoses. Br J Dermatol 1994: 131: 23-27.
11. Motta S, Monti M, Sesana S, Mellesi L, Ghidoni R, Caputo R. Abnormality of water barrier function in psoriasis. Arch Dermatol 1994: 130: 452-456.
12. Korstanje C. Skin barrier creams: Concepts and properties of formulations. In: Clinical management of skin barrier problems. Yamanouchi Satellite Symposium, 4th EADV Congress Brussels, 13 October, 1995, 23-26.
13. Lachapelle J M. Efficacy of Protective creams and/or gels. Current Problems in Dermatology 1996: 25: 182-192 In: Elsner P, Lachapelle J M, Wahlberg J E, Maibach H I (eds): Prevention of contact dermatitis. Basel: Karger.
14. Zhai H, Maibach H I. Effect of barrier creams: human skin in vivo. Contact Dermatitis 1996: 35: 92-96.
15. European Directive 93/35/EEC (14 June 1993) amending for the 6th time Directive 76/768/EEC on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to cosmetic products. Official Journal of the European Communities. No. L 151/32-36, 23/6/93.
16. Colipa: Guidelines for the evaluation of the efficacy of cosmetic products. Scientific information brochure, Brussels, Colipa, 1997, 10 pp.
17. Rogiers V. TEWL-measurements in patch test assessment: the need for standardisation. Current Problems in Dermatology 1995; 23: 152-158. In: Elsner P, Maibach H I (eds): Irritant dermatitis, new clinical and experimental aspects. Basel: Karger.
18. Masson Ph. Editoral: EEMCO, European Group on Efficacy measurement of cosmetics and other topical products. Skin Res Technol 1995: 1: 99-100.
19. Serup J. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of dry skin (xerosis) and ichthyosis: clinical score systems. Skin Res Technol 1995: 1: 109-114.
20. Piérard G E. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of dry skin (xerosis) and ichthyosis: evaluation by stratum corneum strippings. Skin Res Technol 1996: 2: 3-11.
21. Piérard G E. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of skin color. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 1998: 10: 1-11.
22. Berardesca E. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: electrical methods. Skin Res Technol 1997: 3: 126-132.
23. Lévêque J L. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of skin topography. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 1999: 12: 103-114.
24. Rogiers V. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in cosmetic sciences. Skin Pharmacol Appl Physiol 2000, in press.
25. Kompaore F, Dupont Ch, Marty J P. In vivo evaluation in man by two non invasive methods of the stratum corneum barrier function after physical and chemical modification. Int J Cosmet Sci 1991: 13: 293-302.
26. Prall J K, Theiler R F, Bowser P A, Walsh M. The effectiveness of cosmetic products in alleviating a range of skin dryness conditions as determined by clinical and instrumental techniques. Int J Cosmet Sci 1986: 8: 159-174.
27. Le M, Cals S, Schalkwijk J, Van der Valk P. An immunohistochemical study on mild skin irritation induced by a single application of a low-molarity sodium dodecyl sulfate solution: keys to the prevention of irritant contact dermatitis. Curr Probl Dermatol 1996: 25: 67-77. In: Elsner P, Lachapelle J M, Wahlberg J E, Maibach H I (eds): Prevention of contact dermatitis. Basel: Karger.
28. Lévêque J L, De Rigal J, Saint-Léger D, Billy D. How does sodium lauryl sulfate alter the skin barrier function in man? A multiparametric approach. Skin Pharmacol 1993: 6: 111-115.
29. Wilhelm K P. Prevention of surfactant-induced irritant contact dermatitis. Current Problems in Dermatology 1996: 25: 78-85. In: Elsner P, Lachapelle J M, Wahlberg J E, Maibach H I (eds): Prevention of contact dermatitis. Basel: Karger.
30. Jass H E. Elias P M. The living stratum corneum: implications for cosmetic formulation. Cosmetics Toiletries 1991: 106: 47-53.
31. Berardesca E, Vignoli G P, Borroni G, Oresajo C Rabbiosi G. Surfactant damaged skin: which treatment? In: Marks D, Plewig G (eds): The environmental threat to the skin. London: Martin Dunits, 1991: 283-285.
32. Yang L, Mao-Qiang M, Taljebini M, Elias P M, Feingold K R. Topical stratum corneum lipids accelerate barrier repair after tape tripping, solvent treatment and some but not all types of detergent treatment. Br J Dermatol 1995; 133: 679-685.
33. Mao-Qiang M, Feingold K R, Elias P M. Exogenous lipids influence permeability barrier recovery in acetone-treated murine skin. Arch Dermatol 1993: 129: 728-738.
34. Mao-Qiang M, Feingold K R, Thornfeldt C R, Elias P M. Optimisation of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair. J Invest Dermatol 1996: 106: 1096-1101.
35. Lintner K, Mondon P, Girard F, Gibaud C. The effect of a synthetic ceramide-2 on transepidermal water loss after tripping or sodium lauryl sulfate treatment: an in vivo study. Int J Cosmet Sci 1997: 19: 15-25.
36. De Paepe K, Vandamme P, Derde M P, Roseeuw D, Rogiers V. Ceramides/cholesterol/free fatty acids containing body lotions: effect on TEWL of aged and SLS-damaged skin. In: Conference Proceedings, Active ingredients. Augsburg: Verlag Für Chemische Industrie, H. Ziolowsky GmbH, 1996: 97-111.
37. De Paepe K, Taelman M C, Roseeuw D, Rogiers V. Ceramides in dermato-cosmetic products. In: Conference Proceedings, In-cosmetics. Augsburg: Verlag Für Chemische Industrie, H. Ziolowsky GmbH 1997: 101-108.
38. De Paepe K, Vandamme P, Derde M P, Roseeuw D, Rogiers V. Body lotions enriched with skin identical lipids. A TEWL study of aged skin and SLS-induced scaly skin. Euro Cosmetics 1999: 7: 38-45.
39. De Paepe K, Roseeuw D, Rogiers V. Effect of ceramides-containing lotions on the barrier function of the skin. In: Conference Proceedings, Active Ingredients. Tunbridge wells: Step exhibitions. Step Publishing, 1998: 121-132.