A ready-made business: The birth of the clothing industry in America

Business History Review

Volumn 73, Issue 1, 1999, Pages 61-90

  Zakim, Michael ^a  

^a NONE

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EID: 0033450030     PISSN: 00076805     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.2307/3116101     Document Type: Article

References (284)

1. Wilson's Business Directory of New York City (1860); New Trade Directory for New York (1800); Hunt's Merchant's Magazine (Jan. 1849): 116; Chamber of Commerce of New York, Annual Report, 1858, 38-40; Joseph Dorfman, The Economic Mind in American Civilization, 1606-1865, vol. 2 (New York, 1946), 593-7; Maurice Dobb, Theories of Value and Distribution Since Adam Smith: Ideology and Economic Theory (New York, 1973), 69-73.
2. Wilson's Business Directory of New York City (1860); New Trade Directory for New York (1800); Hunt's Merchant's Magazine (Jan. 1849): 116; Chamber of Commerce of New York, Annual Report, 1858, 38-40; Joseph Dorfman, The Economic Mind in American Civilization, 1606-1865, vol. 2 (New York, 1946), 593-7; Maurice Dobb, Theories of Value and Distribution Since Adam Smith: Ideology and Economic Theory (New York, 1973), 69-73.
3. Wilson's Business Directory of New York City (1860); New Trade Directory for New York (1800); Hunt's Merchant's Magazine (Jan. 1849): 116; Chamber of Commerce of New York, Annual Report, 1858, 38-40; Joseph Dorfman, The Economic Mind in American Civilization, 1606-1865, vol. 2 (New York, 1946), 593-7; Maurice Dobb, Theories of Value and Distribution Since Adam Smith: Ideology and Economic Theory (New York, 1973), 69-73.
4. Wilson's Business Directory of New York City (1860); New Trade Directory for New York (1800); Hunt's Merchant's Magazine (Jan. 1849): 116; Chamber of Commerce of New York, Annual Report, 1858, 38-40; Joseph Dorfman, The Economic Mind in American Civilization, 1606-1865, vol. 2 (New York, 1946), 593-7; Maurice Dobb, Theories of Value and Distribution Since Adam Smith: Ideology and Economic Theory (New York, 1973), 69-73.
5. Wilson's Business Directory of New York City (1860); New Trade Directory for New York (1800); Hunt's Merchant's Magazine (Jan. 1849): 116; Chamber of Commerce of New York, Annual Report, 1858, 38-40; Joseph Dorfman, The Economic Mind in American Civilization, 1606-1865, vol. 2 (New York, 1946), 593-7; Maurice Dobb, Theories of Value and Distribution Since Adam Smith: Ideology and Economic Theory (New York, 1973), 69-73.
6. Wilson's Business Directory of New York City (1860); New Trade Directory for New York (1800); Hunt's Merchant's Magazine (Jan. 1849): 116; Chamber of Commerce of New York, Annual Report, 1858, 38-40; Joseph Dorfman, The Economic Mind in American Civilization, 1606-1865, vol. 2 (New York, 1946), 593-7; Maurice Dobb, Theories of Value and Distribution Since Adam Smith: Ideology and Economic Theory (New York, 1973), 69-73.
7. The General Description of All Trades, 1747, quoted in Nora Waugh, The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900 (New York, 1964), 91.
8. The General Description of All Trades, 1747, quoted in Nora Waugh, The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900 (New York, 1964), 91.
9. George G. Foster, New York Naked (New York, 1849), 137-8. Arguably the best account of the early decades of national industrialization in the United States remains Robert Greenhalgh Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 1815-1860, with the collaboration of Jennie Barnes Pope, (New York, 1939). See also George Rogers Taylor, The Transportation Revolution, 1815-1860 (New York, 1951); Douglass C. North, The Economic Growth of the United States, 1790-1860 (New York, 1966); D. W. Meinig, The Shaping of America: Continental America, 1800-1867 (New Haven, Conn., 1993).
10. George G. Foster, New York Naked (New York, 1849), 137-8. Arguably the best account of the early decades of national industrialization in the United States remains Robert Greenhalgh Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 1815-1860, with the collaboration of Jennie Barnes Pope, (New York, 1939). See also George Rogers Taylor, The Transportation Revolution, 1815-1860 (New York, 1951); Douglass C. North, The Economic Growth of the United States, 1790-1860 (New York, 1966); D. W. Meinig, The Shaping of America: Continental America, 1800-1867 (New Haven, Conn., 1993).
11. George G. Foster, New York Naked (New York, 1849), 137-8. Arguably the best account of the early decades of national industrialization in the United States remains Robert Greenhalgh Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 1815-1860, with the collaboration of Jennie Barnes Pope, (New York, 1939). See also George Rogers Taylor, The Transportation Revolution, 1815-1860 (New York, 1951); Douglass C. North, The Economic Growth of the United States, 1790-1860 (New York, 1966); D. W. Meinig, The Shaping of America: Continental America, 1800-1867 (New Haven, Conn., 1993).
12. George G. Foster, New York Naked (New York, 1849), 137-8. Arguably the best account of the early decades of national industrialization in the United States remains Robert Greenhalgh Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 1815-1860, with the collaboration of Jennie Barnes Pope, (New York, 1939). See also George Rogers Taylor, The Transportation Revolution, 1815-1860 (New York, 1951); Douglass C. North, The Economic Growth of the United States, 1790-1860 (New York, 1966); D. W. Meinig, The Shaping of America: Continental America, 1800-1867 (New Haven, Conn., 1993).
13. George G. Foster, New York Naked (New York, 1849), 137-8. Arguably the best account of the early decades of national industrialization in the United States remains Robert Greenhalgh Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 1815-1860, with the collaboration of Jennie Barnes Pope, (New York, 1939). See also George Rogers Taylor, The Transportation Revolution, 1815-1860 (New York, 1951); Douglass C. North, The Economic Growth of the United States, 1790-1860 (New York, 1966); D. W. Meinig, The Shaping of America: Continental America, 1800-1867 (New Haven, Conn., 1993).
14. All figures are taken from United States, Manufactures of the United States in 1860; compiled from the original returns of the eighth census (Washington, D.C., 1865).
15. United States, Manufactures of the United States in 1860: Compiled from the Original Returns of the Eighth Census (Washington, D.C., 1865), lxxxv-lxxxix; Ben Fine and Ellen Leopold, The World of Consumption (London, 1993), 93-106.
16. United States, Manufactures of the United States in 1860: Compiled from the Original Returns of the Eighth Census (Washington, D.C., 1865), lxxxv-lxxxix; Ben Fine and Ellen Leopold, The World of Consumption (London, 1993), 93-106.
17. Industry of All Nations, [Double Number], nos III and IV (New York, 1853); Lady Emmeline Stuart Wortley, Travels in the United States, during 1849 and 1850, vol. 1 (London, 1851), 268; The United States Magazine and Democratic Review (New York) 19:C (Oct. 1846): 305.
18. Industry of All Nations, [Double Number], nos III and IV (New York, 1853); Lady Emmeline Stuart Wortley, Travels in the United States, during 1849 and 1850, vol. 1 (London, 1851), 268; The United States Magazine and Democratic Review (New York) 19:C (Oct. 1846): 305.
19. Industry of All Nations, [Double Number], nos III and IV (New York, 1853); Lady Emmeline Stuart Wortley, Travels in the United States, during 1849 and 1850, vol. 1 (London, 1851), 268; The United States Magazine and Democratic Review (New York) 19:C (Oct. 1846): 305.
20. Margaret Stewart and Leslie Hunter, The Needle is Threaded (London, 1964), 2; Linda Morton, "The Training of a Tailor," Dress, vol. 8 (1982), 22; Catherine L. Roy, "The Tailoring Trade, 1800-1920: Including an Analysis of Pattern Drafting Systems and an Examination of the Trade in Canada" (master's thesis, University of Alberta, 1990), 83; Timothy Shay Arthur, The Tailor's Apprentice: A Story of Cruelty and Oppression (New York, n.d), 4-5; John Shephard of New York, N.Y., Merchant Tailoring Accounts (Rutgers University Archives), v. 2 day-book (or "Waste Book"), 20 Apr. 1786; Grace Rogers Cooper, The Sewing Machine: Its Invention and Development (Washington, D.C., 1976), 57-8; Caroline F. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture: A Study in Industrial Beginnings (Boston, 1931); Thomas Dublin, Women at Work: The Transformation of Work and Community in Lowell, Massachusetts, 1826-1860 (New York, 1979); Anthony F. C. Wallace, Rockdale: The Growth of an American Village in the Early Industrial Revolution (New York, 1972).
21. Margaret Stewart and Leslie Hunter, The Needle is Threaded (London, 1964), 2; Linda Morton, "The Training of a Tailor," Dress, vol. 8 (1982), 22; Catherine L. Roy, "The Tailoring Trade, 1800-1920: Including an Analysis of Pattern Drafting Systems and an Examination of the Trade in Canada" (master's thesis, University of Alberta, 1990), 83; Timothy Shay Arthur, The Tailor's Apprentice: A Story of Cruelty and Oppression (New York, n.d), 4-5; John Shephard of New York, N.Y., Merchant Tailoring Accounts (Rutgers University Archives), v. 2 day-book (or "Waste Book"), 20 Apr. 1786; Grace Rogers Cooper, The Sewing Machine: Its Invention and Development (Washington, D.C., 1976), 57-8; Caroline F. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture: A Study in Industrial Beginnings (Boston, 1931); Thomas Dublin, Women at Work: The Transformation of Work and Community in Lowell, Massachusetts, 1826-1860 (New York, 1979); Anthony F. C. Wallace, Rockdale: The Growth of an American Village in the Early Industrial Revolution (New York, 1972).
22. Margaret Stewart and Leslie Hunter, The Needle is Threaded (London, 1964), 2; Linda Morton, "The Training of a Tailor," Dress, vol. 8 (1982), 22; Catherine L. Roy, "The Tailoring Trade, 1800-1920: Including an Analysis of Pattern Drafting Systems and an Examination of the Trade in Canada" (master's thesis, University of Alberta, 1990), 83; Timothy Shay Arthur, The Tailor's Apprentice: A Story of Cruelty and Oppression (New York, n.d), 4-5; John Shephard of New York, N.Y., Merchant Tailoring Accounts (Rutgers University Archives), v. 2 day-book (or "Waste Book"), 20 Apr. 1786; Grace Rogers Cooper, The Sewing Machine: Its Invention and Development (Washington, D.C., 1976), 57-8; Caroline F. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture: A Study in Industrial Beginnings (Boston, 1931); Thomas Dublin, Women at Work: The Transformation of Work and Community in Lowell, Massachusetts, 1826-1860 (New York, 1979); Anthony F. C. Wallace, Rockdale: The Growth of an American Village in the Early Industrial Revolution (New York, 1972).
23. Margaret Stewart and Leslie Hunter, The Needle is Threaded (London, 1964), 2; Linda Morton, "The Training of a Tailor," Dress, vol. 8 (1982), 22; Catherine L. Roy, "The Tailoring Trade, 1800-1920: Including an Analysis of Pattern Drafting Systems and an Examination of the Trade in Canada" (master's thesis, University of Alberta, 1990), 83; Timothy Shay Arthur, The Tailor's Apprentice: A Story of Cruelty and Oppression (New York, n.d), 4-5; John Shephard of New York, N.Y., Merchant Tailoring Accounts (Rutgers University Archives), v. 2 day-book (or "Waste Book"), 20 Apr. 1786; Grace Rogers Cooper, The Sewing Machine: Its Invention and Development (Washington, D.C., 1976), 57-8; Caroline F. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture: A Study in Industrial Beginnings (Boston, 1931); Thomas Dublin, Women at Work: The Transformation of Work and Community in Lowell, Massachusetts, 1826-1860 (New York, 1979); Anthony F. C. Wallace, Rockdale: The Growth of an American Village in the Early Industrial Revolution (New York, 1972).
24. Margaret Stewart and Leslie Hunter, The Needle is Threaded (London, 1964), 2; Linda Morton, "The Training of a Tailor," Dress, vol. 8 (1982), 22; Catherine L. Roy, "The Tailoring Trade, 1800-1920: Including an Analysis of Pattern Drafting Systems and an Examination of the Trade in Canada" (master's thesis, University of Alberta, 1990), 83; Timothy Shay Arthur, The Tailor's Apprentice: A Story of Cruelty and Oppression (New York, n.d), 4-5; John Shephard of New York, N.Y., Merchant Tailoring Accounts (Rutgers University Archives), v. 2 day-book (or "Waste Book"), 20 Apr. 1786; Grace Rogers Cooper, The Sewing Machine: Its Invention and Development (Washington, D.C., 1976), 57-8; Caroline F. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture: A Study in Industrial Beginnings (Boston, 1931); Thomas Dublin, Women at Work: The Transformation of Work and Community in Lowell, Massachusetts, 1826-1860 (New York, 1979); Anthony F. C. Wallace, Rockdale: The Growth of an American Village in the Early Industrial Revolution (New York, 1972).
25. Margaret Stewart and Leslie Hunter, The Needle is Threaded (London, 1964), 2; Linda Morton, "The Training of a Tailor," Dress, vol. 8 (1982), 22; Catherine L. Roy, "The Tailoring Trade, 1800-1920: Including an Analysis of Pattern Drafting Systems and an Examination of the Trade in Canada" (master's thesis, University of Alberta, 1990), 83; Timothy Shay Arthur, The Tailor's Apprentice: A Story of Cruelty and Oppression (New York, n.d), 4-5; John Shephard of New York, N.Y., Merchant Tailoring Accounts (Rutgers University Archives), v. 2 day-book (or "Waste Book"), 20 Apr. 1786; Grace Rogers Cooper, The Sewing Machine: Its Invention and Development (Washington, D.C., 1976), 57-8; Caroline F. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture: A Study in Industrial Beginnings (Boston, 1931); Thomas Dublin, Women at Work: The Transformation of Work and Community in Lowell, Massachusetts, 1826-1860 (New York, 1979); Anthony F. C. Wallace, Rockdale: The Growth of an American Village in the Early Industrial Revolution (New York, 1972).
26. Margaret Stewart and Leslie Hunter, The Needle is Threaded (London, 1964), 2; Linda Morton, "The Training of a Tailor," Dress, vol. 8 (1982), 22; Catherine L. Roy, "The Tailoring Trade, 1800-1920: Including an Analysis of Pattern Drafting Systems and an Examination of the Trade in Canada" (master's thesis, University of Alberta, 1990), 83; Timothy Shay Arthur, The Tailor's Apprentice: A Story of Cruelty and Oppression (New York, n.d), 4-5; John Shephard of New York, N.Y., Merchant Tailoring Accounts (Rutgers University Archives), v. 2 day-book (or "Waste Book"), 20 Apr. 1786; Grace Rogers Cooper, The Sewing Machine: Its Invention and Development (Washington, D.C., 1976), 57-8; Caroline F. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture: A Study in Industrial Beginnings (Boston, 1931); Thomas Dublin, Women at Work: The Transformation of Work and Community in Lowell, Massachusetts, 1826-1860 (New York, 1979); Anthony F. C. Wallace, Rockdale: The Growth of an American Village in the Early Industrial Revolution (New York, 1972).
27. Margaret Stewart and Leslie Hunter, The Needle is Threaded (London, 1964), 2; Linda Morton, "The Training of a Tailor," Dress, vol. 8 (1982), 22; Catherine L. Roy, "The Tailoring Trade, 1800-1920: Including an Analysis of Pattern Drafting Systems and an Examination of the Trade in Canada" (master's thesis, University of Alberta, 1990), 83; Timothy Shay Arthur, The Tailor's Apprentice: A Story of Cruelty and Oppression (New York, n.d), 4-5; John Shephard of New York, N.Y., Merchant Tailoring Accounts (Rutgers University Archives), v. 2 day-book (or "Waste Book"), 20 Apr. 1786; Grace Rogers Cooper, The Sewing Machine: Its Invention and Development (Washington, D.C., 1976), 57-8; Caroline F. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture: A Study in Industrial Beginnings (Boston, 1931); Thomas Dublin, Women at Work: The Transformation of Work and Community in Lowell, Massachusetts, 1826-1860 (New York, 1979); Anthony F. C. Wallace, Rockdale: The Growth of an American Village in the Early Industrial Revolution (New York, 1972).
28. Margaret Stewart and Leslie Hunter, The Needle is Threaded (London, 1964), 2; Linda Morton, "The Training of a Tailor," Dress, vol. 8 (1982), 22; Catherine L. Roy, "The Tailoring Trade, 1800-1920: Including an Analysis of Pattern Drafting Systems and an Examination of the Trade in Canada" (master's thesis, University of Alberta, 1990), 83; Timothy Shay Arthur, The Tailor's Apprentice: A Story of Cruelty and Oppression (New York, n.d), 4-5; John Shephard of New York, N.Y., Merchant Tailoring Accounts (Rutgers University Archives), v. 2 day-book (or "Waste Book"), 20 Apr. 1786; Grace Rogers Cooper, The Sewing Machine: Its Invention and Development (Washington, D.C., 1976), 57-8; Caroline F. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture: A Study in Industrial Beginnings (Boston, 1931); Thomas Dublin, Women at Work: The Transformation of Work and Community in Lowell, Massachusetts, 1826-1860 (New York, 1979); Anthony F. C. Wallace, Rockdale: The Growth of an American Village in the Early Industrial Revolution (New York, 1972).
29. Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800 (London, 1997), 44-74; F. W. Galton, Select Documents Illustrating the History of Trade Unionism 1: The Tailoring Trade (London, 1896), xvii; Stanley Chapman, "The Innovating Entrepreneurs in the British Ready-made Clothing Industry," Textile History 24 (1993): 5, 9; Carolyn R. Shine, "Dress for the Ohio Pioneers," in Dress in American Culture, eds. Patricia A. Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab (Bowling Green, Ohio, 1993), 59; Peter K. Newman, "The Early London Clothing Trades," in Oxford Economic Papers (New Series) 4:3 (Oct. 1952): 243-4; Carole Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford, 1990), 98; Paul Zankowich, "The Craftsmen of Colonial New York City" (Ed.D. diss., New York University, 1956), 390; John Shephard, "Merchant Tailoring Accounts" (Ac. 861, Rutgers University Archives). See, for instance, 3 May 1786; 5 May 1786; May 1786; 14 May 1786; 18 May 1786.
30. Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800 (London, 1997), 44-74; F. W. Galton, Select Documents Illustrating the History of Trade Unionism 1: The Tailoring Trade (London, 1896), xvii; Stanley Chapman, "The Innovating Entrepreneurs in the British Ready-made Clothing Industry," Textile History 24 (1993): 5, 9; Carolyn R. Shine, "Dress for the Ohio Pioneers," in Dress in American Culture, eds. Patricia A. Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab (Bowling Green, Ohio, 1993), 59; Peter K. Newman, "The Early London Clothing Trades," in Oxford Economic Papers (New Series) 4:3 (Oct. 1952): 243-4; Carole Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford, 1990), 98; Paul Zankowich, "The Craftsmen of Colonial New York City" (Ed.D. diss., New York University, 1956), 390; John Shephard, "Merchant Tailoring Accounts" (Ac. 861, Rutgers University Archives). See, for instance, 3 May 1786; 5 May 1786; May 1786; 14 May 1786; 18 May 1786.
31. Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800 (London, 1997), 44-74; F. W. Galton, Select Documents Illustrating the History of Trade Unionism 1: The Tailoring Trade (London, 1896), xvii; Stanley Chapman, "The Innovating Entrepreneurs in the British Ready-made Clothing Industry," Textile History 24 (1993): 5, 9; Carolyn R. Shine, "Dress for the Ohio Pioneers," in Dress in American Culture, eds. Patricia A. Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab (Bowling Green, Ohio, 1993), 59; Peter K. Newman, "The Early London Clothing Trades," in Oxford Economic Papers (New Series) 4:3 (Oct. 1952): 243-4; Carole Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford, 1990), 98; Paul Zankowich, "The Craftsmen of Colonial New York City" (Ed.D. diss., New York University, 1956), 390; John Shephard, "Merchant Tailoring Accounts" (Ac. 861, Rutgers University Archives). See, for instance, 3 May 1786; 5 May 1786; May 1786; 14 May 1786; 18 May 1786.
32. Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800 (London, 1997), 44-74; F. W. Galton, Select Documents Illustrating the History of Trade Unionism 1: The Tailoring Trade (London, 1896), xvii; Stanley Chapman, "The Innovating Entrepreneurs in the British Ready-made Clothing Industry," Textile History 24 (1993): 5, 9; Carolyn R. Shine, "Dress for the Ohio Pioneers," in Dress in American Culture, eds. Patricia A. Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab (Bowling Green, Ohio, 1993), 59; Peter K. Newman, "The Early London Clothing Trades," in Oxford Economic Papers (New Series) 4:3 (Oct. 1952): 243-4; Carole Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford, 1990), 98; Paul Zankowich, "The Craftsmen of Colonial New York City" (Ed.D. diss., New York University, 1956), 390; John Shephard, "Merchant Tailoring Accounts" (Ac. 861, Rutgers University Archives). See, for instance, 3 May 1786; 5 May 1786; May 1786; 14 May 1786; 18 May 1786.
33. Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800 (London, 1997), 44-74; F. W. Galton, Select Documents Illustrating the History of Trade Unionism 1: The Tailoring Trade (London, 1896), xvii; Stanley Chapman, "The Innovating Entrepreneurs in the British Ready-made Clothing Industry," Textile History 24 (1993): 5, 9; Carolyn R. Shine, "Dress for the Ohio Pioneers," in Dress in American Culture, eds. Patricia A. Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab (Bowling Green, Ohio, 1993), 59; Peter K. Newman, "The Early London Clothing Trades," in Oxford Economic Papers (New Series) 4:3 (Oct. 1952): 243-4; Carole Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford, 1990), 98; Paul Zankowich, "The Craftsmen of Colonial New York City" (Ed.D. diss., New York University, 1956), 390; John Shephard, "Merchant Tailoring Accounts" (Ac. 861, Rutgers University Archives). See, for instance, 3 May 1786; 5 May 1786; May 1786; 14 May 1786; 18 May 1786.
34. Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800 (London, 1997), 44-74; F. W. Galton, Select Documents Illustrating the History of Trade Unionism 1: The Tailoring Trade (London, 1896), xvii; Stanley Chapman, "The Innovating Entrepreneurs in the British Ready-made Clothing Industry," Textile History 24 (1993): 5, 9; Carolyn R. Shine, "Dress for the Ohio Pioneers," in Dress in American Culture, eds. Patricia A. Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab (Bowling Green, Ohio, 1993), 59; Peter K. Newman, "The Early London Clothing Trades," in Oxford Economic Papers (New Series) 4:3 (Oct. 1952): 243-4; Carole Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford, 1990), 98; Paul Zankowich, "The Craftsmen of Colonial New York City" (Ed.D. diss., New York University, 1956), 390; John Shephard, "Merchant Tailoring Accounts" (Ac. 861, Rutgers University Archives). See, for instance, 3 May 1786; 5 May 1786; May 1786; 14 May 1786; 18 May 1786.
35. Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800 (London, 1997), 44-74; F. W. Galton, Select Documents Illustrating the History of Trade Unionism 1: The Tailoring Trade (London, 1896), xvii; Stanley Chapman, "The Innovating Entrepreneurs in the British Ready-made Clothing Industry," Textile History 24 (1993): 5, 9; Carolyn R. Shine, "Dress for the Ohio Pioneers," in Dress in American Culture, eds. Patricia A. Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab (Bowling Green, Ohio, 1993), 59; Peter K. Newman, "The Early London Clothing Trades," in Oxford Economic Papers (New Series) 4:3 (Oct. 1952): 243-4; Carole Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford, 1990), 98; Paul Zankowich, "The Craftsmen of Colonial New York City" (Ed.D. diss., New York University, 1956), 390; John Shephard, "Merchant Tailoring Accounts" (Ac. 861, Rutgers University Archives). See, for instance, 3 May 1786; 5 May 1786; May 1786; 14 May 1786; 18 May 1786.
36. Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800 (London, 1997), 44-74; F. W. Galton, Select Documents Illustrating the History of Trade Unionism 1: The Tailoring Trade (London, 1896), xvii; Stanley Chapman, "The Innovating Entrepreneurs in the British Ready-made Clothing Industry," Textile History 24 (1993): 5, 9; Carolyn R. Shine, "Dress for the Ohio Pioneers," in Dress in American Culture, eds. Patricia A. Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab (Bowling Green, Ohio, 1993), 59; Peter K. Newman, "The Early London Clothing Trades," in Oxford Economic Papers (New Series) 4:3 (Oct. 1952): 243-4; Carole Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford, 1990), 98; Paul Zankowich, "The Craftsmen of Colonial New York City" (Ed.D. diss., New York University, 1956), 390; John Shephard, "Merchant Tailoring Accounts" (Ac. 861, Rutgers University Archives). See, for instance, 3 May 1786; 5 May 1786; May 1786; 14 May 1786; 18 May 1786.
37. Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800 (London, 1997), 44-74; F. W. Galton, Select Documents Illustrating the History of Trade Unionism 1: The Tailoring Trade (London, 1896), xvii; Stanley Chapman, "The Innovating Entrepreneurs in the British Ready-made Clothing Industry," Textile History 24 (1993): 5, 9; Carolyn R. Shine, "Dress for the Ohio Pioneers," in Dress in American Culture, eds. Patricia A. Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab (Bowling Green, Ohio, 1993), 59; Peter K. Newman, "The Early London Clothing Trades," in Oxford Economic Papers (New Series) 4:3 (Oct. 1952): 243-4; Carole Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford, 1990), 98; Paul Zankowich, "The Craftsmen of Colonial New York City" (Ed.D. diss., New York University, 1956), 390; John Shephard, "Merchant Tailoring Accounts" (Ac. 861, Rutgers University Archives). See, for instance, 3 May 1786; 5 May 1786; May 1786; 14 May 1786; 18 May 1786.
38. Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800 (London, 1997), 44-74; F. W. Galton, Select Documents Illustrating the History of Trade Unionism 1: The Tailoring Trade (London, 1896), xvii; Stanley Chapman, "The Innovating Entrepreneurs in the British Ready-made Clothing Industry," Textile History 24 (1993): 5, 9; Carolyn R. Shine, "Dress for the Ohio Pioneers," in Dress in American Culture, eds. Patricia A. Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab (Bowling Green, Ohio, 1993), 59; Peter K. Newman, "The Early London Clothing Trades," in Oxford Economic Papers (New Series) 4:3 (Oct. 1952): 243-4; Carole Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford, 1990), 98; Paul Zankowich, "The Craftsmen of Colonial New York City" (Ed.D. diss., New York University, 1956), 390; John Shephard, "Merchant Tailoring Accounts" (Ac. 861, Rutgers University Archives). See, for instance, 3 May 1786; 5 May 1786; May 1786; 14 May 1786; 18 May 1786.
39. Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800 (London, 1997), 44-74; F. W. Galton, Select Documents Illustrating the History of Trade Unionism 1: The Tailoring Trade (London, 1896), xvii; Stanley Chapman, "The Innovating Entrepreneurs in the British Ready-made Clothing Industry," Textile History 24 (1993): 5, 9; Carolyn R. Shine, "Dress for the Ohio Pioneers," in Dress in American Culture, eds. Patricia A. Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab (Bowling Green, Ohio, 1993), 59; Peter K. Newman, "The Early London Clothing Trades," in Oxford Economic Papers (New Series) 4:3 (Oct. 1952): 243-4; Carole Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford, 1990), 98; Paul Zankowich, "The Craftsmen of Colonial New York City" (Ed.D. diss., New York University, 1956), 390; John Shephard, "Merchant Tailoring Accounts" (Ac. 861, Rutgers University Archives). See, for instance, 3 May 1786; 5 May 1786; May 1786; 14 May 1786; 18 May 1786.
40. Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800 (London, 1997), 44-74; F. W. Galton, Select Documents Illustrating the History of Trade Unionism 1: The Tailoring Trade (London, 1896), xvii; Stanley Chapman, "The Innovating Entrepreneurs in the British Ready-made Clothing Industry," Textile History 24 (1993): 5, 9; Carolyn R. Shine, "Dress for the Ohio Pioneers," in Dress in American Culture, eds. Patricia A. Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab (Bowling Green, Ohio, 1993), 59; Peter K. Newman, "The Early London Clothing Trades," in Oxford Economic Papers (New Series) 4:3 (Oct. 1952): 243-4; Carole Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford, 1990), 98; Paul Zankowich, "The Craftsmen of Colonial New York City" (Ed.D. diss., New York University, 1956), 390; John Shephard, "Merchant Tailoring Accounts" (Ac. 861, Rutgers University Archives). See, for instance, 3 May 1786; 5 May 1786; May 1786; 14 May 1786; 18 May 1786.
41. Bulletin of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers 4:11 (June 1873): 124, 126, 130-3.
42. Clothing's role in the American ideology of industrial progress is expressed in the prominence accorded it in the long introduction to the manufactures schedule of the eighth census, written after the war in 1865.
43. These categories were machinery, hardware and cutlery, cannon and small arms, precious metals, various metals, granite and marble, bricks and lime, wool, cotton silk, flax, mixed textile manufacturers, tobacco, hats and caps, leather and tanneries, soap and candles, distilled and fermented liquors, powder mills, drugs, medicines, paints and dyes, glass and earthenware, sugar refining, paper, printing and binding, cordage, musical instruments, carriages and wagons, grist, flour, oil and saw mills, ships, furniture, and houses. Carroll D. Wright, History and Growth of the United States Census (Washington, D.C., 1900), 309-12; Alexander Hamilton, Report of the Secretary of the Treasury of the United States, on the subject of Manufactures (Dublin, 1792); Patricia Cline Cohen, A Calculating People: The Spread of Numeracy in Early America (Chicago, 1982), 175-204.
44. These categories were machinery, hardware and cutlery, cannon and small arms, precious metals, various metals, granite and marble, bricks and lime, wool, cotton silk, flax, mixed textile manufacturers, tobacco, hats and caps, leather and tanneries, soap and candles, distilled and fermented liquors, powder mills, drugs, medicines, paints and dyes, glass and earthenware, sugar refining, paper, printing and binding, cordage, musical instruments, carriages and wagons, grist, flour, oil and saw mills, ships, furniture, and houses. Carroll D. Wright, History and Growth of the United States Census (Washington, D.C., 1900), 309-12; Alexander Hamilton, Report of the Secretary of the Treasury of the United States, on the subject of Manufactures (Dublin, 1792); Patricia Cline Cohen, A Calculating People: The Spread of Numeracy in Early America (Chicago, 1982), 175-204.
45. These categories were machinery, hardware and cutlery, cannon and small arms, precious metals, various metals, granite and marble, bricks and lime, wool, cotton silk, flax, mixed textile manufacturers, tobacco, hats and caps, leather and tanneries, soap and candles, distilled and fermented liquors, powder mills, drugs, medicines, paints and dyes, glass and earthenware, sugar refining, paper, printing and binding, cordage, musical instruments, carriages and wagons, grist, flour, oil and saw mills, ships, furniture, and houses. Carroll D. Wright, History and Growth of the United States Census (Washington, D.C., 1900), 309-12; Alexander Hamilton, Report of the Secretary of the Treasury of the United States, on the subject of Manufactures (Dublin, 1792); Patricia Cline Cohen, A Calculating People: The Spread of Numeracy in Early America (Chicago, 1982), 175-204.
46. This definition of manufacturing is taken from Noah Webster, An American Dictionary of the English Language (New York, 1845), and is reflective of Locke's accepted notions of property and labor. See John Locke, The Second Treatise of Government (Indianapolis 1952), 16-8. For a general discussion see Keith Tribe, Land, Labour and Economic Discourse (London, 1978). Edwin Freedley, a prolific copywriter on behalf of industrial progress, noted in the late 1850s, however, that the meaning of "manufacture" had become "an extremely flexible one." Freedley, Philadelphia and Its Manufactures (Philadelphia, 1858), 21.
47. This definition of manufacturing is taken from Noah Webster, An American Dictionary of the English Language (New York, 1845), and is reflective of Locke's accepted notions of property and labor. See John Locke, The Second Treatise of Government (Indianapolis 1952), 16-8. For a general discussion see Keith Tribe, Land, Labour and Economic Discourse (London, 1978). Edwin Freedley, a prolific copywriter on behalf of industrial progress, noted in the late 1850s, however, that the meaning of "manufacture" had become "an extremely flexible one." Freedley, Philadelphia and Its Manufactures (Philadelphia, 1858), 21.
48. This definition of manufacturing is taken from Noah Webster, An American Dictionary of the English Language (New York, 1845), and is reflective of Locke's accepted notions of property and labor. See John Locke, The Second Treatise of Government (Indianapolis 1952), 16-8. For a general discussion see Keith Tribe, Land, Labour and Economic Discourse (London, 1978). Edwin Freedley, a prolific copywriter on behalf of industrial progress, noted in the late 1850s, however, that the meaning of "manufacture" had become "an extremely flexible one." Freedley, Philadelphia and Its Manufactures (Philadelphia, 1858), 21.
49. This definition of manufacturing is taken from Noah Webster, An American Dictionary of the English Language (New York, 1845), and is reflective of Locke's accepted notions of property and labor. See John Locke, The Second Treatise of Government (Indianapolis 1952), 16-8. For a general discussion see Keith Tribe, Land, Labour and Economic Discourse (London, 1978). Edwin Freedley, a prolific copywriter on behalf of industrial progress, noted in the late 1850s, however, that the meaning of "manufacture" had become "an extremely flexible one." Freedley, Philadelphia and Its Manufactures (Philadelphia, 1858), 21.
50. Surplus values alludes here to the growing prevalence in the nineteenth century of creating manufacturing enterprises as a means of generating cash profits, and of using waged labor to do so. The best historical account of this dynamic arguably remains the first volume of Capital. Karl Marx, Capital, vol. 1 (Moscow, 1954).
51. George F. Fox, Fashion: The Power that Influences the World, 3rd ed. (New York, 1872), 22; United States, Abstract of the Statistics of Manufactures, according to the Returns of the Seventh Census, Jos. C. G. Kennedy, superintendent (35th Congress, 2d Session, Senate Ex. Doc. No. 39), 35; Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of Business Enterprise (New York, 1932; originally 1904), 19, 27. John Diggens argues that this entrepreneurial redefinition of economic activity is implicit in Madison's contribution to The Federalist. John P. Diggins, The Lost Soul of American Politics: Virtue, Self-Interest, and the Foundations of Liberalism (Chicago, 1984), 60-2.
52. George F. Fox, Fashion: The Power that Influences the World, 3rd ed. (New York, 1872), 22; United States, Abstract of the Statistics of Manufactures, according to the Returns of the Seventh Census, Jos. C. G. Kennedy, superintendent (35th Congress, 2d Session, Senate Ex. Doc. No. 39), 35; Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of Business Enterprise (New York, 1932; originally 1904), 19, 27. John Diggens argues that this entrepreneurial redefinition of economic activity is implicit in Madison's contribution to The Federalist. John P. Diggins, The Lost Soul of American Politics: Virtue, Self-Interest, and the Foundations of Liberalism (Chicago, 1984), 60-2.
53. George F. Fox, Fashion: The Power that Influences the World, 3rd ed. (New York, 1872), 22; United States, Abstract of the Statistics of Manufactures, according to the Returns of the Seventh Census, Jos. C. G. Kennedy, superintendent (35th Congress, 2d Session, Senate Ex. Doc. No. 39), 35; Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of Business Enterprise (New York, 1932; originally 1904), 19, 27. John Diggens argues that this entrepreneurial redefinition of economic activity is implicit in Madison's contribution to The Federalist. John P. Diggins, The Lost Soul of American Politics: Virtue, Self-Interest, and the Foundations of Liberalism (Chicago, 1984), 60-2.
54. George F. Fox, Fashion: The Power that Influences the World, 3rd ed. (New York, 1872), 22; United States, Abstract of the Statistics of Manufactures, according to the Returns of the Seventh Census, Jos. C. G. Kennedy, superintendent (35th Congress, 2d Session, Senate Ex. Doc. No. 39), 35; Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of Business Enterprise (New York, 1932; originally 1904), 19, 27. John Diggens argues that this entrepreneurial redefinition of economic activity is implicit in Madison's contribution to The Federalist. John P. Diggins, The Lost Soul of American Politics: Virtue, Self-Interest, and the Foundations of Liberalism (Chicago, 1984), 60-2.
55. Eighty Years' Progress of the United States (Hartford, Conn., 1869), 309-311; Horace Greeley, et. al. The Great Industries of the United States (Hartford, Conn., 1872), 587-592; Chauncey M. Depew, One Hundred Years of American Commerce, 1795-1895 (New York, 1895), 561-565.
56. Eighty Years' Progress of the United States (Hartford, Conn., 1869), 309-311; Horace Greeley, et. al. The Great Industries of the United States (Hartford, Conn., 1872), 587-592; Chauncey M. Depew, One Hundred Years of American Commerce, 1795-1895 (New York, 1895), 561-565.
57. Eighty Years' Progress of the United States (Hartford, Conn., 1869), 309-311; Horace Greeley, et. al. The Great Industries of the United States (Hartford, Conn., 1872), 587-592; Chauncey M. Depew, One Hundred Years of American Commerce, 1795-1895 (New York, 1895), 561-565.
58. Alfred D. Chadler, Jr., The Visible Hand: The Managerial Revolution in America (Cambridge, Mass., 1977), 50-78, 209-239; Stuart Bruchey, Enterprise: The Dynamic of a Free People (Cambridge, Mass., 1990), 137-164; Walter Licht, Industrializing America: The Nineteenth Century (Baltimore, 1995), 21-35; Thomas C. Cochran, Frontiers of Change: Early Industrialism in America (New York, 1981), 10 (quote). Only Porter and Livesay note that clothiers uniquely solved problems of distribution in the industrializing market. Glenn Porter and Harold Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers: Studies in the Changing Structure of Nineteenth-Century Marketing (Baltimore, 1971), 27-9.
59. Alfred D. Chadler, Jr., The Visible Hand: The Managerial Revolution in America (Cambridge, Mass., 1977), 50-78, 209-239; Stuart Bruchey, Enterprise: The Dynamic of a Free People (Cambridge, Mass., 1990), 137-164; Walter Licht, Industrializing America: The Nineteenth Century (Baltimore, 1995), 21-35; Thomas C. Cochran, Frontiers of Change: Early Industrialism in America (New York, 1981), 10 (quote). Only Porter and Livesay note that clothiers uniquely solved problems of distribution in the industrializing market. Glenn Porter and Harold Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers: Studies in the Changing Structure of Nineteenth-Century Marketing (Baltimore, 1971), 27-9.
60. Alfred D. Chadler, Jr., The Visible Hand: The Managerial Revolution in America (Cambridge, Mass., 1977), 50-78, 209-239; Stuart Bruchey, Enterprise: The Dynamic of a Free People (Cambridge, Mass., 1990), 137-164; Walter Licht, Industrializing America: The Nineteenth Century (Baltimore, 1995), 21-35; Thomas C. Cochran, Frontiers of Change: Early Industrialism in America (New York, 1981), 10 (quote). Only Porter and Livesay note that clothiers uniquely solved problems of distribution in the industrializing market. Glenn Porter and Harold Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers: Studies in the Changing Structure of Nineteenth-Century Marketing (Baltimore, 1971), 27-9.
61. Alfred D. Chadler, Jr., The Visible Hand: The Managerial Revolution in America (Cambridge, Mass., 1977), 50-78, 209-239; Stuart Bruchey, Enterprise: The Dynamic of a Free People (Cambridge, Mass., 1990), 137-164; Walter Licht, Industrializing America: The Nineteenth Century (Baltimore, 1995), 21-35; Thomas C. Cochran, Frontiers of Change: Early Industrialism in America (New York, 1981), 10 (quote). Only Porter and Livesay note that clothiers uniquely solved problems of distribution in the industrializing market. Glenn Porter and Harold Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers: Studies in the Changing Structure of Nineteenth-Century Marketing (Baltimore, 1971), 27-9.
62. Alfred D. Chadler, Jr., The Visible Hand: The Managerial Revolution in America (Cambridge, Mass., 1977), 50-78, 209-239; Stuart Bruchey, Enterprise: The Dynamic of a Free People (Cambridge, Mass., 1990), 137-164; Walter Licht, Industrializing America: The Nineteenth Century (Baltimore, 1995), 21-35; Thomas C. Cochran, Frontiers of Change: Early Industrialism in America (New York, 1981), 10 (quote). Only Porter and Livesay note that clothiers uniquely solved problems of distribution in the industrializing market. Glenn Porter and Harold Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers: Studies in the Changing Structure of Nineteenth-Century Marketing (Baltimore, 1971), 27-9.
63. Chandler, Visible Hand, 62-4; Bruchey, Enterprise, 150-1; Licht, Industrializing America, 26-30. On the decentralizing trends in clothing production, see United States, Manufactures of the United States in 1860, lxi. On the shoe industry specifically, see Alan Dawley, Class and Community: The Industrial Revolution in Lynn (Cambridge, Mass., 1976) and the brilliantly gendered revision of this familiar history in Mary H. Blewett, Men, Women, and Work: Class, Gender, and Protest in the New England Shoe Industry, 1780-1910 (Urbana, Ill., 1988). Both of these studies are more interested in tracing the evolution of class rather than the changing nature of business, however.
64. Chandler, Visible Hand, 62-4; Bruchey, Enterprise, 150-1; Licht, Industrializing America, 26-30. On the decentralizing trends in clothing production, see United States, Manufactures of the United States in 1860, lxi. On the shoe industry specifically, see Alan Dawley, Class and Community: The Industrial Revolution in Lynn (Cambridge, Mass., 1976) and the brilliantly gendered revision of this familiar history in Mary H. Blewett, Men, Women, and Work: Class, Gender, and Protest in the New England Shoe Industry, 1780-1910 (Urbana, Ill., 1988). Both of these studies are more interested in tracing the evolution of class rather than the changing nature of business, however.
65. Chandler, Visible Hand, 62-4; Bruchey, Enterprise, 150-1; Licht, Industrializing America, 26-30. On the decentralizing trends in clothing production, see United States, Manufactures of the United States in 1860, lxi. On the shoe industry specifically, see Alan Dawley, Class and Community: The Industrial Revolution in Lynn (Cambridge, Mass., 1976) and the brilliantly gendered revision of this familiar history in Mary H. Blewett, Men, Women, and Work: Class, Gender, and Protest in the New England Shoe Industry, 1780-1910 (Urbana, Ill., 1988). Both of these studies are more interested in tracing the evolution of class rather than the changing nature of business, however.
66. Chandler, Visible Hand, 62-4; Bruchey, Enterprise, 150-1; Licht, Industrializing America, 26-30. On the decentralizing trends in clothing production, see United States, Manufactures of the United States in 1860, lxi. On the shoe industry specifically, see Alan Dawley, Class and Community: The Industrial Revolution in Lynn (Cambridge, Mass., 1976) and the brilliantly gendered revision of this familiar history in Mary H. Blewett, Men, Women, and Work: Class, Gender, and Protest in the New England Shoe Industry, 1780-1910 (Urbana, Ill., 1988). Both of these studies are more interested in tracing the evolution of class rather than the changing nature of business, however.
67. Chandler, Visible Hand, 62-4; Bruchey, Enterprise, 150-1; Licht, Industrializing America, 26-30. On the decentralizing trends in clothing production, see United States, Manufactures of the United States in 1860, lxi. On the shoe industry specifically, see Alan Dawley, Class and Community: The Industrial Revolution in Lynn (Cambridge, Mass., 1976) and the brilliantly gendered revision of this familiar history in Mary H. Blewett, Men, Women, and Work: Class, Gender, and Protest in the New England Shoe Industry, 1780-1910 (Urbana, Ill., 1988). Both of these studies are more interested in tracing the evolution of class rather than the changing nature of business, however.
68. Chandler, Visible Hand, 62-4; Bruchey, Enterprise, 150-1; Licht, Industrializing America, 26-30. On the decentralizing trends in clothing production, see United States, Manufactures of the United States in 1860, lxi. On the shoe industry specifically, see Alan Dawley, Class and Community: The Industrial Revolution in Lynn (Cambridge, Mass., 1976) and the brilliantly gendered revision of this familiar history in Mary H. Blewett, Men, Women, and Work: Class, Gender, and Protest in the New England Shoe Industry, 1780-1910 (Urbana, Ill., 1988). Both of these studies are more interested in tracing the evolution of class rather than the changing nature of business, however.
69. New-York Post, Jan. 2, Jan. 5, Jan. 10, Apr. 24, Aug. 16, 1822.
70. On British dumping, see Arthur Harrison Cole, The American Wool Manufacture (Cambridge, Mass., 1926), 80-1, 145-7; Ray Bert Westerfield, "Early History of American Auctions - A Chapter in Commercial History," Transactions of the Connecticut Academy of Arts and Sciences (May 1920): 168, 186-91, 202; Chester Whitney Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff: A Study in the Economic History of the United States (New York, 1910), 41-57. Yearly breakdowns of textile imports after 1821 are to be found in Congress's annual Commerce and Navigation Reports.
71. On British dumping, see Arthur Harrison Cole, The American Wool Manufacture (Cambridge, Mass., 1926), 80-1, 145-7; Ray Bert Westerfield, "Early History of American Auctions - A Chapter in Commercial History," Transactions of the Connecticut Academy of Arts and Sciences (May 1920): 168, 186-91, 202; Chester Whitney Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff: A Study in the Economic History of the United States (New York, 1910), 41-57. Yearly breakdowns of textile imports after 1821 are to be found in Congress's annual Commerce and Navigation Reports.
72. On British dumping, see Arthur Harrison Cole, The American Wool Manufacture (Cambridge, Mass., 1926), 80-1, 145-7; Ray Bert Westerfield, "Early History of American Auctions - A Chapter in Commercial History," Transactions of the Connecticut Academy of Arts and Sciences (May 1920): 168, 186-91, 202; Chester Whitney Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff: A Study in the Economic History of the United States (New York, 1910), 41-57. Yearly breakdowns of textile imports after 1821 are to be found in Congress's annual Commerce and Navigation Reports.
73. New-York Post, 27 Mar. 1822; 16 Sept. 1822; Philadelphia Directory and Register, (1816-1822); David Alexander, Retailing in England during the Industrial Revolution (London, 1970), 185; B. L. Anderson, "Entrepreneurship, Market Process and the Industrial Revolution in England," in The Market in History, B. L. Anderson and A. J. H. Latham (London, 1986), 172-3, 178, 181. On the industrial nature of custom tailoring, see Michael Zakim, "Customizing the Industrial Revolution: The Reinvention of Tailoring in the Nineteenth Century," Winterthur Portfolio 33:1 (1998): 41-58.
74. New-York Post, 27 Mar. 1822; 16 Sept. 1822; Philadelphia Directory and Register, (1816-1822); David Alexander, Retailing in England during the Industrial Revolution (London, 1970), 185; B. L. Anderson, "Entrepreneurship, Market Process and the Industrial Revolution in England," in The Market in History, B. L. Anderson and A. J. H. Latham (London, 1986), 172-3, 178, 181. On the industrial nature of custom tailoring, see Michael Zakim, "Customizing the Industrial Revolution: The Reinvention of Tailoring in the Nineteenth Century," Winterthur Portfolio 33:1 (1998): 41-58.
75. New-York Post, 27 Mar. 1822; 16 Sept. 1822; Philadelphia Directory and Register, (1816-1822); David Alexander, Retailing in England during the Industrial Revolution (London, 1970), 185; B. L. Anderson, "Entrepreneurship, Market Process and the Industrial Revolution in England," in The Market in History, B. L. Anderson and A. J. H. Latham (London, 1986), 172-3, 178, 181. On the industrial nature of custom tailoring, see Michael Zakim, "Customizing the Industrial Revolution: The Reinvention of Tailoring in the Nineteenth Century," Winterthur Portfolio 33:1 (1998): 41-58.
76. New-York Post, 27 Mar. 1822; 16 Sept. 1822; Philadelphia Directory and Register, (1816-1822); David Alexander, Retailing in England during the Industrial Revolution (London, 1970), 185; B. L. Anderson, "Entrepreneurship, Market Process and the Industrial Revolution in England," in The Market in History, B. L. Anderson and A. J. H. Latham (London, 1986), 172-3, 178, 181. On the industrial nature of custom tailoring, see Michael Zakim, "Customizing the Industrial Revolution: The Reinvention of Tailoring in the Nineteenth Century," Winterthur Portfolio 33:1 (1998): 41-58.
77. New-York Post, 27 Mar. 1822; 16 Sept. 1822; Philadelphia Directory and Register, (1816-1822); David Alexander, Retailing in England during the Industrial Revolution (London, 1970), 185; B. L. Anderson, "Entrepreneurship, Market Process and the Industrial Revolution in England," in The Market in History, B. L. Anderson and A. J. H. Latham (London, 1986), 172-3, 178, 181. On the industrial nature of custom tailoring, see Michael Zakim, "Customizing the Industrial Revolution: The Reinvention of Tailoring in the Nineteenth Century," Winterthur Portfolio 33:1 (1998): 41-58.
78. New York-Post, 29 Apr. 1824; 9 May 1825; 3 Apr. 1828; 27 Mar. 1830; F. Fitzgerald De Roos, Personal Narrative of Travels in the United States and Canada in 1826 (London, 1827), 5-6.
79. New York-Post, 29 Apr. 1824; 9 May 1825; 3 Apr. 1828; 27 Mar. 1830; F. Fitzgerald De Roos, Personal Narrative of Travels in the United States and Canada in 1826 (London, 1827), 5-6.
80. New York-Post, 29 Apr. 1824; 9 May 1825; 3 Apr. 1828; 27 Mar. 1830; F. Fitzgerald De Roos, Personal Narrative of Travels in the United States and Canada in 1826 (London, 1827), 5-6.
81. Longworth's New York City Directory (1816, 1817, 1818, 1819); Mercein's City Directory, New-York Register, and Almanac (1820); Henry Bradshaw Fearon, Sketches of America (London, 1818), 10-11. See the illustration of a tailor's shop in Carl Bridenbaugh, Colonial Craftsman (New York, 1950).
82. Longworth's New York City Directory (1816, 1817, 1818, 1819); Mercein's City Directory, New-York Register, and Almanac (1820); Henry Bradshaw Fearon, Sketches of America (London, 1818), 10-11. See the illustration of a tailor's shop in Carl Bridenbaugh, Colonial Craftsman (New York, 1950).
83. Longworth's New York City Directory (1816, 1817, 1818, 1819); Mercein's City Directory, New-York Register, and Almanac (1820); Henry Bradshaw Fearon, Sketches of America (London, 1818), 10-11. See the illustration of a tailor's shop in Carl Bridenbaugh, Colonial Craftsman (New York, 1950).
84. Longworth's New York City Directory (1816, 1817, 1818, 1819); Mercein's City Directory, New-York Register, and Almanac (1820); Henry Bradshaw Fearon, Sketches of America (London, 1818), 10-11. See the illustration of a tailor's shop in Carl Bridenbaugh, Colonial Craftsman (New York, 1950).
85. D. T. Valentine, Manual Manual of the Corporation of the City of New York (New York, 1864), 753-4; New-York Post, 13 July 1819; Brooks Brothers Archives: ledger, 1822 (Box 03 A3 book 2A); Sales book, 1824-9 (box 3 A3 hook 3); "Report on the Founding" (BB1 F10); William R. Bagnall, "Sketches of Manufacturing Establishments in New York City, and of Textile Establishments in the United States" (MSS. North Andover, Mass.: Merrimack Valley Textile Museum, 1977), 344-6; Longworth's American Almanac, New-York Register and City Directory (1806-1819). Henry's four sons would found the well-known "Brooks Brothers" in 1850.
86. D. T. Valentine, Manual Manual of the Corporation of the City of New York (New York, 1864), 753-4; New-York Post, 13 July 1819; Brooks Brothers Archives: ledger, 1822 (Box 03 A3 book 2A); Sales book, 1824-9 (box 3 A3 hook 3); "Report on the Founding" (BB1 F10); William R. Bagnall, "Sketches of Manufacturing Establishments in New York City, and of Textile Establishments in the United States" (MSS. North Andover, Mass.: Merrimack Valley Textile Museum, 1977), 344-6; Longworth's American Almanac, New-York Register and City Directory (1806-1819). Henry's four sons would found the well-known "Brooks Brothers" in 1850.
87. D. T. Valentine, Manual Manual of the Corporation of the City of New York (New York, 1864), 753-4; New-York Post, 13 July 1819; Brooks Brothers Archives: ledger, 1822 (Box 03 A3 book 2A); Sales book, 1824-9 (box 3 A3 hook 3); "Report on the Founding" (BB1 F10); William R. Bagnall, "Sketches of Manufacturing Establishments in New York City, and of Textile Establishments in the United States" (MSS. North Andover, Mass.: Merrimack Valley Textile Museum, 1977), 344-6; Longworth's American Almanac, New-York Register and City Directory (1806-1819). Henry's four sons would found the well-known "Brooks Brothers" in 1850.
88. D. T. Valentine, Manual Manual of the Corporation of the City of New York (New York, 1864), 753-4; New-York Post, 13 July 1819; Brooks Brothers Archives: ledger, 1822 (Box 03 A3 book 2A); Sales book, 1824-9 (box 3 A3 hook 3); "Report on the Founding" (BB1 F10); William R. Bagnall, "Sketches of Manufacturing Establishments in New York City, and of Textile Establishments in the United States" (MSS. North Andover, Mass.: Merrimack Valley Textile Museum, 1977), 344-6; Longworth's American Almanac, New-York Register and City Directory (1806-1819). Henry's four sons would found the well-known "Brooks Brothers" in 1850.
89. D. T. Valentine, Manual Manual of the Corporation of the City of New York (New York, 1864), 753-4; New-York Post, 13 July 1819; Brooks Brothers Archives: ledger, 1822 (Box 03 A3 book 2A); Sales book, 1824-9 (box 3 A3 hook 3); "Report on the Founding" (BB1 F10); William R. Bagnall, "Sketches of Manufacturing Establishments in New York City, and of Textile Establishments in the United States" (MSS. North Andover, Mass.: Merrimack Valley Textile Museum, 1977), 344-6; Longworth's American Almanac, New-York Register and City Directory (1806-1819). Henry's four sons would found the well-known "Brooks Brothers" in 1850.
90. D. T. Valentine, Manual Manual of the Corporation of the City of New York (New York, 1864), 753-4; New-York Post, 13 July 1819; Brooks Brothers Archives: ledger, 1822 (Box 03 A3 book 2A); Sales book, 1824-9 (box 3 A3 hook 3); "Report on the Founding" (BB1 F10); William R. Bagnall, "Sketches of Manufacturing Establishments in New York City, and of Textile Establishments in the United States" (MSS. North Andover, Mass.: Merrimack Valley Textile Museum, 1977), 344-6; Longworth's American Almanac, New-York Register and City Directory (1806-1819). Henry's four sons would found the well-known "Brooks Brothers" in 1850.
91. D. T. Valentine, Manual Manual of the Corporation of the City of New York (New York, 1864), 753-4; New-York Post, 13 July 1819; Brooks Brothers Archives: ledger, 1822 (Box 03 A3 book 2A); Sales book, 1824-9 (box 3 A3 hook 3); "Report on the Founding" (BB1 F10); William R. Bagnall, "Sketches of Manufacturing Establishments in New York City, and of Textile Establishments in the United States" (MSS. North Andover, Mass.: Merrimack Valley Textile Museum, 1977), 344-6; Longworth's American Almanac, New-York Register and City Directory (1806-1819). Henry's four sons would found the well-known "Brooks Brothers" in 1850.
92. D. T. Valentine, Manual Manual of the Corporation of the City of New York
93. Matthew Hale Smith, Sunshine and Shadow in New York (Hartford, Conn., 1868), 56; Stephen N. Elias, Alexander T. Stewart: The Forgotten Merchant Prince (Westport, Conn., 1992), 4.
94. Matthew Hale Smith, Sunshine and Shadow in New York (Hartford, Conn., 1868), 56; Stephen N. Elias, Alexander T. Stewart: The Forgotten Merchant Prince (Westport, Conn., 1992), 4.
95. Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 12-13, 55-61, 63; Ira Cohen, "The Auction System in the Port of New York, 1817-1837, " Business History Review 45 (Winter 1971): 488-9, 493-8; Fred Mitchell Jones, Middlemen in the Domestic Trade of the United States, 1800-1860 (Urbana, Ill., 1937), 34, 70.
96. Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 12-13, 55-61, 63; Ira Cohen, "The Auction System in the Port of New York, 1817-1837, " Business History Review 45 (Winter 1971): 488-9, 493-8; Fred Mitchell Jones, Middlemen in the Domestic Trade of the United States, 1800-1860 (Urbana, Ill., 1937), 34, 70.
97. Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 12-13, 55-61, 63; Ira Cohen, "The Auction System in the Port of New York, 1817-1837, " Business History Review 45 (Winter 1971): 488-9, 493-8; Fred Mitchell Jones, Middlemen in the Domestic Trade of the United States, 1800-1860 (Urbana, Ill., 1937), 34, 70.
98. Nantucket Enquirer, 17 Jan. 1825.
99. Niles' Weekly Register, 9 Sept. 1826; also see 21 June 1823; Cole, American Wool Manufacture, 80-1, 145-7; Westerfield, "Early American Auctions," 168, 186-91, 202; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 41-57.
100. Niles' Weekly Register, 9 Sept. 1826; also see 21 June 1823; Cole, American Wool Manufacture, 80-1, 145-7; Westerfield, "Early American Auctions," 168, 186-91, 202; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 41-57.
101. Niles' Weekly Register, 9 Sept. 1826; also see 21 June 1823; Cole, American Wool Manufacture, 80-1, 145-7; Westerfield, "Early American Auctions," 168, 186-91, 202; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 41-57.
102. Niles' Weekly Register, 9 Sept. 1826; also see 21 June 1823; Cole, American Wool Manufacture, 80-1, 145-7; Westerfield, "Early American Auctions," 168, 186-91, 202; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 41-57.
103. New-York Post, 16 Aug. 1822; 24 Apr. 1822; and 5 Jan. 1822; Westerfield, "Early History of American Auctions," 182-3, 184, 196-8; Elias, Alexander T. Stewart, 21; Cohen, "The Auction System," 495, 499; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 276; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 49. For details on fabrics see Margaret Thompson Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume, Tallahassee, Leon County, Florida: 1824-1861" (Ph.D. diss., Florida State University, 1978), 268-276; and Florence M. Montgomery, Textiles in America, 1650-1870 (New York, 1984), 192-3, 287-9, 238-9, 298, 325.
104. New-York Post, 16 Aug. 1822; 24 Apr. 1822; and 5 Jan. 1822; Westerfield, "Early History of American Auctions," 182-3, 184, 196-8; Elias, Alexander T. Stewart, 21; Cohen, "The Auction System," 495, 499; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 276; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 49. For details on fabrics see Margaret Thompson Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume, Tallahassee, Leon County, Florida: 1824-1861" (Ph.D. diss., Florida State University, 1978), 268-276; and Florence M. Montgomery, Textiles in America, 1650-1870 (New York, 1984), 192-3, 287-9, 238-9, 298, 325.
105. New-York Post, 16 Aug. 1822; 24 Apr. 1822; and 5 Jan. 1822; Westerfield, "Early History of American Auctions," 182-3, 184, 196-8; Elias, Alexander T. Stewart, 21; Cohen, "The Auction System," 495, 499; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 276; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 49. For details on fabrics see Margaret Thompson Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume, Tallahassee, Leon County, Florida: 1824-1861" (Ph.D. diss., Florida State University, 1978), 268-276; and Florence M. Montgomery, Textiles in America, 1650-1870 (New York, 1984), 192-3, 287-9, 238-9, 298, 325.
106. New-York Post, 16 Aug. 1822; 24 Apr. 1822; and 5 Jan. 1822; Westerfield, "Early History of American Auctions," 182-3, 184, 196-8; Elias, Alexander T. Stewart, 21; Cohen, "The Auction System," 495, 499; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 276; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 49. For details on fabrics see Margaret Thompson Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume, Tallahassee, Leon County, Florida: 1824-1861" (Ph.D. diss., Florida State University, 1978), 268-276; and Florence M. Montgomery, Textiles in America, 1650-1870 (New York, 1984), 192-3, 287-9, 238-9, 298, 325.
107. New-York Post, 16 Aug. 1822; 24 Apr. 1822; and 5 Jan. 1822; Westerfield, "Early History of American Auctions," 182-3, 184, 196-8; Elias, Alexander T. Stewart, 21; Cohen, "The Auction System," 495, 499; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 276; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 49. For details on fabrics see Margaret Thompson Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume, Tallahassee, Leon County, Florida: 1824-1861" (Ph.D. diss., Florida State University, 1978), 268-276; and Florence M. Montgomery, Textiles in America, 1650-1870 (New York, 1984), 192-3, 287-9, 238-9, 298, 325.
108. New-York Post, 16 Aug. 1822; 24 Apr. 1822; and 5 Jan. 1822; Westerfield, "Early History of American Auctions," 182-3, 184, 196-8; Elias, Alexander T. Stewart, 21; Cohen, "The Auction System," 495, 499; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 276; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 49. For details on fabrics see Margaret Thompson Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume, Tallahassee, Leon County, Florida: 1824-1861" (Ph.D. diss., Florida State University, 1978), 268-276; and Florence M. Montgomery, Textiles in America, 1650-1870 (New York, 1984), 192-3, 287-9, 238-9, 298, 325.
109. New-York Post, 16 Aug. 1822; 24 Apr. 1822; and 5 Jan. 1822; Westerfield, "Early History of American Auctions," 182-3, 184, 196-8; Elias, Alexander T. Stewart, 21; Cohen, "The Auction System," 495, 499; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 276; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 49. For details on fabrics see Margaret Thompson Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume, Tallahassee, Leon County, Florida: 1824-1861" (Ph.D. diss., Florida State University, 1978), 268-276; and Florence M. Montgomery, Textiles in America, 1650-1870 (New York, 1984), 192-3, 287-9, 238-9, 298, 325.
110. New-York Post, 16 Aug. 1822; 24 Apr. 1822; and 5 Jan. 1822; Westerfield, "Early History of American Auctions," 182-3, 184, 196-8; Elias, Alexander T. Stewart, 21; Cohen, "The Auction System," 495, 499; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 276; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 49. For details on fabrics see Margaret Thompson Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume, Tallahassee, Leon County, Florida: 1824-1861" (Ph.D. diss., Florida State University, 1978), 268-276; and Florence M. Montgomery, Textiles in America, 1650-1870 (New York, 1984), 192-3, 287-9, 238-9, 298, 325.
111. New-York Post, 16 Aug. 1822; 24 Apr. 1822; and 5 Jan. 1822; Westerfield, "Early History of American Auctions," 182-3, 184, 196-8; Elias, Alexander T. Stewart, 21; Cohen, "The Auction System," 495, 499; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 276; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 49. For details on fabrics see Margaret Thompson Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume, Tallahassee, Leon County, Florida: 1824-1861" (Ph.D. diss., Florida State University, 1978), 268-276; and Florence M. Montgomery, Textiles in America, 1650-1870 (New York, 1984), 192-3, 287-9, 238-9, 298, 325.
112. New-York Post, 20 Apr. 1819; 13 July 1819; Charles H. Haswell, Reminiscences of an Octogenarian of the City of New York (New York, 1896), 57, 72, 77.
113. New-York Post, 20 Apr. 1819; 13 July 1819; Charles H. Haswell, Reminiscences of an Octogenarian of the City of New York (New York, 1896), 57, 72, 77.
114. David Saposs, "Colonial and Federal Beginnings," in John R. Commons, et. al. History of Labour in the United States, vol. 1 (New York, 1918), 28-58; Maurice Dobb, "Entrepreneur," in Encyclopedia of the Social Sciences, vol. 5, ed. Edwin Seligman (New York, 1931), 559. On the pre-industrial meaning of capitalist see, for instance, ads in the New York Times, "To capitalists" and "Important to capitalists," 29 Sept. 1835.
115. David Saposs, "Colonial and Federal Beginnings," in John R. Commons, et. al. History of Labour in the United States, vol. 1 (New York, 1918), 28-58; Maurice Dobb, "Entrepreneur," in Encyclopedia of the Social Sciences, vol. 5, ed. Edwin Seligman (New York, 1931), 559. On the pre-industrial meaning of capitalist see, for instance, ads in the New York Times, "To capitalists" and "Important to capitalists," 29 Sept. 1835.
116. David Saposs, "Colonial and Federal Beginnings," in John R. Commons, et. al. History of Labour in the United States, vol. 1 (New York, 1918), 28-58; Maurice Dobb, "Entrepreneur," in Encyclopedia of the Social Sciences, vol. 5, ed. Edwin Seligman (New York, 1931), 559. On the pre-industrial meaning of capitalist see, for instance, ads in the New York Times, "To capitalists" and "Important to capitalists," 29 Sept. 1835.
117. For Burk's separate advertisement to provincial dealers see New-York Post, 24 Apr. 1822.
118. Louisville Public Advertiser, 5 Feb. 1823; Louisville Gazette, 20 Dec. 1825; S. Jones, Pittsburgh in the Year Eighteen Hundred and Twenty Six (Pittsburgh, 1826); St. Louis Beacon, 13 Apr. 1829; Nashville Republican & State Gazette, 11 Mar. 1828; 31 Oct. 1828.
119. Louisville Public Advertiser, 5 Feb. 1823; Louisville Gazette, 20 Dec. 1825; S. Jones, Pittsburgh in the Year Eighteen Hundred and Twenty Six (Pittsburgh, 1826); St. Louis Beacon, 13 Apr. 1829; Nashville Republican & State Gazette, 11 Mar. 1828; 31 Oct. 1828.
120. Louisville Public Advertiser, 5 Feb. 1823; Louisville Gazette, 20 Dec. 1825; S. Jones, Pittsburgh in the Year Eighteen Hundred and Twenty Six (Pittsburgh, 1826); St. Louis Beacon, 13 Apr. 1829; Nashville Republican & State Gazette, 11 Mar. 1828; 31 Oct. 1828.
121. Louisville Public Advertiser, 5 Feb. 1823; Louisville Gazette, 20 Dec. 1825; S. Jones, Pittsburgh in the Year Eighteen Hundred and Twenty Six (Pittsburgh, 1826); St. Louis Beacon, 13 Apr. 1829; Nashville Republican & State Gazette, 11 Mar. 1828; 31 Oct. 1828.
122. Louisville Public Advertiser, 5 Feb. 1823; Louisville Gazette, 20 Dec. 1825; S. Jones, Pittsburgh in the Year Eighteen Hundred and Twenty Six (Pittsburgh, 1826); St. Louis Beacon, 13 Apr. 1829; Nashville Republican & State Gazette, 11 Mar. 1828; 31 Oct. 1828.
123. Louisville Public Advertiser, 5 Feb. 1823; Louisville Gazette, 20 Dec. 1825; S. Jones, Pittsburgh in the Year Eighteen Hundred and Twenty Six (Pittsburgh, 1826); St. Louis Beacon, 13 Apr. 1829; Nashville Republican & State Gazette, 11 Mar. 1828; 31 Oct. 1828.
124. The quote is from New Orleans Directory and Register, 1822. On clothing in New Orleans see New Orleans Annual Advertiser, 1832; George Rogers Taylor, The Transportation Revolution 1815-1860 (New York, 1951), 9, 107, 164; Margaret Myers, The New York Money Market, vol. 1 (New York, 1931), 43-4; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 95-6, 118-9. For a good description of the continental credit system and the New York-New Orleans axis see United States Magazine and Democratic Review 2:6 (May, 1838): 116-8; Albert O. Greef, The Commercial Paper House in the United States (Cambridge, Mass., 1938), 15-7; Egal Feldman, "New York's Men's Clothing Trade" (Ph.D. diss., University of Pennsylvania, 1959), 76-8.
125. The quote is from New Orleans Directory and Register, 1822. On clothing in New Orleans see New Orleans Annual Advertiser, 1832; George Rogers Taylor, The Transportation Revolution 1815-1860 (New York, 1951), 9, 107, 164; Margaret Myers, The New York Money Market, vol. 1 (New York, 1931), 43-4; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 95-6, 118-9. For a good description of the continental credit system and the New York-New Orleans axis see United States Magazine and Democratic Review 2:6 (May, 1838): 116-8; Albert O. Greef, The Commercial Paper House in the United States (Cambridge, Mass., 1938), 15-7; Egal Feldman, "New York's Men's Clothing Trade" (Ph.D. diss., University of Pennsylvania, 1959), 76-8.
126. The quote is from New Orleans Directory and Register, 1822. On clothing in New Orleans see New Orleans Annual Advertiser, 1832; George Rogers Taylor, The Transportation Revolution 1815-1860 (New York, 1951), 9, 107, 164; Margaret Myers, The New York Money Market, vol. 1 (New York, 1931), 43-4; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 95-6, 118-9. For a good description of the continental credit system and the New York-New Orleans axis see United States Magazine and Democratic Review 2:6 (May, 1838): 116-8; Albert O. Greef, The Commercial Paper House in the United States (Cambridge, Mass., 1938), 15-7; Egal Feldman, "New York's Men's Clothing Trade" (Ph.D. diss., University of Pennsylvania, 1959), 76-8.
127. The quote is from New Orleans Directory and Register, 1822. On clothing in New Orleans see New Orleans Annual Advertiser, 1832; George Rogers Taylor, The Transportation Revolution 1815-1860 (New York, 1951), 9, 107, 164; Margaret Myers, The New York Money Market, vol. 1 (New York, 1931), 43-4; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 95-6, 118-9. For a good description of the continental credit system and the New York-New Orleans axis see United States Magazine and Democratic Review 2:6 (May, 1838): 116-8; Albert O. Greef, The Commercial Paper House in the United States (Cambridge, Mass., 1938), 15-7; Egal Feldman, "New York's Men's Clothing Trade" (Ph.D. diss., University of Pennsylvania, 1959), 76-8.
128. The quote is from New Orleans Directory and Register, 1822. On clothing in New Orleans see New Orleans Annual Advertiser, 1832; George Rogers Taylor, The Transportation Revolution 1815-1860 (New York, 1951), 9, 107, 164; Margaret Myers, The New York Money Market, vol. 1 (New York, 1931), 43-4; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 95-6, 118-9. For a good description of the continental credit system and the New York-New Orleans axis see United States Magazine and Democratic Review 2:6 (May, 1838): 116-8; Albert O. Greef, The Commercial Paper House in the United States (Cambridge, Mass., 1938), 15-7; Egal Feldman, "New York's Men's Clothing Trade" (Ph.D. diss., University of Pennsylvania, 1959), 76-8.
129. The quote is from New Orleans Directory and Register, 1822. On clothing in New Orleans see New Orleans Annual Advertiser, 1832; George Rogers Taylor, The Transportation Revolution 1815-1860 (New York, 1951), 9, 107, 164; Margaret Myers, The New York Money Market, vol. 1 (New York, 1931), 43-4; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 95-6, 118-9. For a good description of the continental credit system and the New York-New Orleans axis see United States Magazine and Democratic Review 2:6 (May, 1838): 116-8; Albert O. Greef, The Commercial Paper House in the United States (Cambridge, Mass., 1938), 15-7; Egal Feldman, "New York's Men's Clothing Trade" (Ph.D. diss., University of Pennsylvania, 1959), 76-8.
130. The quote is from New Orleans Directory and Register, 1822. On clothing in New Orleans see New Orleans Annual Advertiser, 1832; George Rogers Taylor, The Transportation Revolution 1815-1860 (New York, 1951), 9, 107, 164; Margaret Myers, The New York Money Market, vol. 1 (New York, 1931), 43-4; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 95-6, 118-9. For a good description of the continental credit system and the New York-New Orleans axis see United States Magazine and Democratic Review 2:6 (May, 1838): 116-8; Albert O. Greef, The Commercial Paper House in the United States (Cambridge, Mass., 1938), 15-7; Egal Feldman, "New York's Men's Clothing Trade" (Ph.D. diss., University of Pennsylvania, 1959), 76-8.
131. The quote is from New Orleans Directory and Register, 1822. On clothing in New Orleans see New Orleans Annual Advertiser, 1832; George Rogers Taylor, The Transportation Revolution 1815-1860 (New York, 1951), 9, 107, 164; Margaret Myers, The New York Money Market, vol. 1 (New York, 1931), 43-4; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 95-6, 118-9. For a good description of the continental credit system and the New York-New Orleans axis see United States Magazine and Democratic Review 2:6 (May, 1838): 116-8; Albert O. Greef, The Commercial Paper House in the United States (Cambridge, Mass., 1938), 15-7; Egal Feldman, "New York's Men's Clothing Trade" (Ph.D. diss., University of Pennsylvania, 1959), 76-8.
132. Jones, Middlemen in the Domestic Trade, 10-11, 49; Ralph M. Hower, "Urban Retailing in 1850," in Readings in the History of American Marketing, Settlement to Civil War (Homewood, Ill., 1968), 296; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 7, 10, 21-2; Dianne Lindstrom, Economic Development in the Philadelphia Region, 1810-1850 (New York, 1978), 3; Thomas C. Cochran, 200 Years of American Business (New York, 1977), 14-5, 29.
133. Jones, Middlemen in the Domestic Trade, 10-11, 49; Ralph M. Hower, "Urban Retailing in 1850," in Readings in the History of American Marketing, Settlement to Civil War (Homewood, Ill., 1968), 296; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 7, 10, 21-2; Dianne Lindstrom, Economic Development in the Philadelphia Region, 1810-1850 (New York, 1978), 3; Thomas C. Cochran, 200 Years of American Business (New York, 1977), 14-5, 29.
134. Jones, Middlemen in the Domestic Trade, 10-11, 49; Ralph M. Hower, "Urban Retailing in 1850," in Readings in the History of American Marketing, Settlement to Civil War (Homewood, Ill., 1968), 296; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 7, 10, 21-2; Dianne Lindstrom, Economic Development in the Philadelphia Region, 1810-1850 (New York, 1978), 3; Thomas C. Cochran, 200 Years of American Business (New York, 1977), 14-5, 29.
135. Jones, Middlemen in the Domestic Trade, 10-11, 49; Ralph M. Hower, "Urban Retailing in 1850," in Readings in the History of American Marketing, Settlement to Civil War (Homewood, Ill., 1968), 296; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 7, 10, 21-2; Dianne Lindstrom, Economic Development in the Philadelphia Region, 1810-1850 (New York, 1978), 3; Thomas C. Cochran, 200 Years of American Business (New York, 1977), 14-5, 29.
136. Jones, Middlemen in the Domestic Trade, 10-11, 49; Ralph M. Hower, "Urban Retailing in 1850," in Readings in the History of American Marketing, Settlement to Civil War (Homewood, Ill., 1968), 296; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 7, 10, 21-2; Dianne Lindstrom, Economic Development in the Philadelphia Region, 1810-1850 (New York, 1978), 3; Thomas C. Cochran, 200 Years of American Business (New York, 1977), 14-5, 29.
137. Bruchey, Cotton and the Growth of the American Economy, 241-5; Richmond County History 6:1 (Winter 1974): 23-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 15 July 1829; 8 Mar. 1833; 19 Apr. 1834; John A. James, Money and Capital Markets in Postbellum America (Princeton, N.J., 1978), 51-4; Douglass C. North, The Economic Growth of the United States, 1790-1860 (New York, 1966), 66-71; Meinig, The Shaping of America, 241, 286, 324. On the mechanics of financing interregional exchange in the 1820s and 1830s see Peter Temin, The Jacksonian Economy (New York, 1969), 44-112.
138. Bruchey, Cotton and the Growth of the American Economy, 241-5; Richmond County History 6:1 (Winter 1974): 23-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 15 July 1829; 8 Mar. 1833; 19 Apr. 1834; John A. James, Money and Capital Markets in Postbellum America (Princeton, N.J., 1978), 51-4; Douglass C. North, The Economic Growth of the United States, 1790-1860 (New York, 1966), 66-71; Meinig, The Shaping of America, 241, 286, 324. On the mechanics of financing interregional exchange in the 1820s and 1830s see Peter Temin, The Jacksonian Economy (New York, 1969), 44-112.
139. Bruchey, Cotton and the Growth of the American Economy, 241-5; Richmond County History 6:1 (Winter 1974): 23-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 15 July 1829; 8 Mar. 1833; 19 Apr. 1834; John A. James, Money and Capital Markets in Postbellum America (Princeton, N.J., 1978), 51-4; Douglass C. North, The Economic Growth of the United States, 1790-1860 (New York, 1966), 66-71; Meinig, The Shaping of America, 241, 286, 324. On the mechanics of financing interregional exchange in the 1820s and 1830s see Peter Temin, The Jacksonian Economy (New York, 1969), 44-112.
140. Bruchey, Cotton and the Growth of the American Economy, 241-5; Richmond County History 6:1 (Winter 1974): 23-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 15 July 1829; 8 Mar. 1833; 19 Apr. 1834; John A. James, Money and Capital Markets in Postbellum America (Princeton, N.J., 1978), 51-4; Douglass C. North, The Economic Growth of the United States, 1790-1860 (New York, 1966), 66-71; Meinig, The Shaping of America, 241, 286, 324. On the mechanics of financing interregional exchange in the 1820s and 1830s see Peter Temin, The Jacksonian Economy (New York, 1969), 44-112.
141. Bruchey, Cotton and the Growth of the American Economy, 241-5; Richmond County History 6:1 (Winter 1974): 23-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 15 July 1829; 8 Mar. 1833; 19 Apr. 1834; John A. James, Money and Capital Markets in Postbellum America (Princeton, N.J., 1978), 51-4; Douglass C. North, The Economic Growth of the United States, 1790-1860 (New York, 1966), 66-71; Meinig, The Shaping of America, 241, 286, 324. On the mechanics of financing interregional exchange in the 1820s and 1830s see Peter Temin, The Jacksonian Economy (New York, 1969), 44-112.
142. Bruchey, Cotton and the Growth of the American Economy, 241-5; Richmond County History 6:1 (Winter 1974): 23-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 15 July 1829; 8 Mar. 1833; 19 Apr. 1834; John A. James, Money and Capital Markets in Postbellum America (Princeton, N.J., 1978), 51-4; Douglass C. North, The Economic Growth of the United States, 1790-1860 (New York, 1966), 66-71; Meinig, The Shaping of America, 241, 286, 324. On the mechanics of financing interregional exchange in the 1820s and 1830s see Peter Temin, The Jacksonian Economy (New York, 1969), 44-112.
143. Bruchey, Cotton and the Growth of the American Economy, 241-5; Richmond County History 6:1 (Winter 1974): 23-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 15 July 1829; 8 Mar. 1833; 19 Apr. 1834; John A. James, Money and Capital Markets in Postbellum America (Princeton, N.J., 1978), 51-4; Douglass C. North, The Economic Growth of the United States, 1790-1860 (New York, 1966), 66-71; Meinig, The Shaping of America, 241, 286, 324. On the mechanics of financing interregional exchange in the 1820s and 1830s see Peter Temin, The Jacksonian Economy (New York, 1969), 44-112.
144. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
145. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
146. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
147. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
148. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
149. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
150. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
151. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
152. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
153. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
154. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
155. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
156. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
157. Linda Ellen Peters, "A Study of the Architecture of Augusta, Georgia, 1735-1860," (Ph.D. diss., University of Georgia, 1983), 104-5; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 17 Oct. 1835; 8 Nov. 1834; 27 Dec. 1834; 30 May 1835; 7 Feb. 1835; 29 Aug. 1835; 28 May 1836; 26 Jan. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837; 21 Mar. 1835; 9 July 1834; 24 Sept. 1836; 22 Nov. 1834; 6 Feb. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837. The Georgian, 3 May 1831; 1 May 1829; 3 May 1830; 14 Apr. 1837; Charleston Directory, 1835-6.
158. James M. Edney, New York, N.Y., 1835-7. Letter book to F. H. Cooke of Augusta. (Rutgers University Special Collections), 3 Feb. 1836; 21 Oct. 1835; Augusta Chronicle, 1 Nov. 1823.
159. James M. Edney, New York, N.Y., 1835-7. Letter book to F. H. Cooke of Augusta. (Rutgers University Special Collections), 3 Feb. 1836; 21 Oct. 1835; Augusta Chronicle, 1 Nov. 1823.
160. James M. Edney, New York, N.Y., 1835-7. Letter book to F. H. Cooke of Augusta. (Rutgers University Special Collections), 3 Feb. 1836; 21 Oct. 1835; Augusta Chronicle, 1 Nov. 1823.
161. Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 26 Jan. 1837. Edney to Cooke, 11 Nov. 1837; 31 Oct. 1835; Jones, Memorial History of Augusta, 172.
162. Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 26 Jan. 1837. Edney to Cooke, 11 Nov. 1837; 31 Oct. 1835; Jones, Memorial History of Augusta, 172.
163. Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 26 Jan. 1837. Edney to Cooke, 11 Nov. 1837; 31 Oct. 1835; Jones, Memorial History of Augusta, 172.
164. Christiana Holmes Tillson, A Woman's Story of Pioneer Illinois, ed. Milo Milton Quaife (Chicago, 1919), 85; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinal, 24 Mar. 1832; 2 Aug., 11 July, 29 Aug., 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 28 May 1836; B. Read and H. Bodman, Description of the Gentlemen's Winter Fashions (New York, 1836); Edney to Cooke, 28 June 1835.
165. Christiana Holmes Tillson, A Woman's Story of Pioneer Illinois, ed. Milo Milton Quaife (Chicago, 1919), 85; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinal, 24 Mar. 1832; 2 Aug., 11 July, 29 Aug., 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 28 May 1836; B. Read and H. Bodman, Description of the Gentlemen's Winter Fashions (New York, 1836); Edney to Cooke, 28 June 1835.
166. Christiana Holmes Tillson, A Woman's Story of Pioneer Illinois, ed. Milo Milton Quaife (Chicago, 1919), 85; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinal, 24 Mar. 1832; 2 Aug., 11 July, 29 Aug., 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 28 May 1836; B. Read and H. Bodman, Description of the Gentlemen's Winter Fashions (New York, 1836); Edney to Cooke, 28 June 1835.
167. Christiana Holmes Tillson, A Woman's Story of Pioneer Illinois, ed. Milo Milton Quaife (Chicago, 1919), 85; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinal, 24 Mar. 1832; 2 Aug., 11 July, 29 Aug., 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 28 May 1836; B. Read and H. Bodman, Description of the Gentlemen's Winter Fashions (New York, 1836); Edney to Cooke, 28 June 1835.
168. Christiana Holmes Tillson, A Woman's Story of Pioneer Illinois, ed. Milo Milton Quaife (Chicago, 1919), 85; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinal, 24 Mar. 1832; 2 Aug., 11 July, 29 Aug., 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 28 May 1836; B. Read and H. Bodman, Description of the Gentlemen's Winter Fashions (New York, 1836); Edney to Cooke, 28 June 1835.
169. "Negro cloth" was an inexpensive fabric, akin to kerseys and satinets.
170. Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 26 Jan. 1837; 27 Jan. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; Edney to Cooke, 21 Nov. 1835. On the growth of the provincial market in these years see Diane Lindstrom, Economic Development, 12-7.
171. Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 26 Jan. 1837; 27 Jan. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; Edney to Cooke, 21 Nov. 1835. On the growth of the provincial market in these years see Diane Lindstrom, Economic Development, 12-7.
172. Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 26 Jan. 1837; 27 Jan. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; Edney to Cooke, 21 Nov. 1835. On the growth of the provincial market in these years see Diane Lindstrom, Economic Development, 12-7.
173. Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 26 Jan. 1837; 27 Jan. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; Edney to Cooke, 21 Nov. 1835. On the growth of the provincial market in these years see Diane Lindstrom, Economic Development, 12-7.
174. Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 26 Jan. 1837; 27 Jan. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; Edney to Cooke, 21 Nov. 1835. On the growth of the provincial market in these years see Diane Lindstrom, Economic Development, 12-7.
175. Meinig, The Shaping of America, 232, 351; John B. Jones (Luke Shortfield), The Western Merchant (Philadelphia, 1849), 80.
176. Meinig, The Shaping of America, 232, 351; John B. Jones (Luke Shortfield), The Western Merchant (Philadelphia, 1849), 80.
177. H. S. Tanner, A Description of the Canals and Railroads of the United States (New York, 1840), 173-4.
178. E. D. Cooke's debtors in Georgia Journal, 30 Jan. 1831; 13 June 1833; Augusta Chronicle, 4 Mar. 1826; 7 Oct. 1826, 3 June 1826; 20 May 1828; On general stores see Warshaw Collection of Business Paraphanelia (Smithsonian Institution), Business Records, box 3/item 8, box 31/item 6; James Shorter Papers Collection No. 1091, letter, 20 Aug. 1826 (Georgia Historical Society); Lewis E. Atherton, The Southern Country Store, 84-5.
179. E. D. Cooke's debtors in Georgia Journal, 30 Jan. 1831; 13 June 1833; Augusta Chronicle, 4 Mar. 1826; 7 Oct. 1826, 3 June 1826; 20 May 1828; On general stores see Warshaw Collection of Business Paraphanelia (Smithsonian Institution), Business Records, box 3/item 8, box 31/item 6; James Shorter Papers Collection No. 1091, letter, 20 Aug. 1826 (Georgia Historical Society); Lewis E. Atherton, The Southern Country Store, 84-5.
180. E. D. Cooke's debtors in Georgia Journal, 30 Jan. 1831; 13 June 1833; Augusta Chronicle, 4 Mar. 1826; 7 Oct. 1826, 3 June 1826; 20 May 1828; On general stores see Warshaw Collection of Business Paraphanelia (Smithsonian Institution), Business Records, box 3/item 8, box 31/item 6; James Shorter Papers Collection No. 1091, letter, 20 Aug. 1826 (Georgia Historical Society); Lewis E. Atherton, The Southern Country Store, 84-5.
181. E. D. Cooke's debtors in Georgia Journal, 30 Jan. 1831; 13 June 1833; Augusta Chronicle, 4 Mar. 1826; 7 Oct. 1826, 3 June 1826; 20 May 1828; On general stores see Warshaw Collection of Business Paraphanelia (Smithsonian Institution), Business Records, box 3/item 8, box 31/item 6; James Shorter Papers Collection No. 1091, letter, 20 Aug. 1826 (Georgia Historical Society); Lewis E. Atherton, The Southern Country Store, 84-5.
182. E. D. Cooke's debtors in Georgia Journal, 30 Jan. 1831; 13 June 1833; Augusta Chronicle, 4 Mar. 1826; 7 Oct. 1826, 3 June 1826; 20 May 1828; On general stores see Warshaw Collection of Business Paraphanelia (Smithsonian Institution), Business Records, box 3/item 8, box 31/item 6; James Shorter Papers Collection No. 1091, letter, 20 Aug. 1826 (Georgia Historical Society); Lewis E. Atherton, The Southern Country Store, 84-5.
183. This is to be distinguished from "Negro" clothing, which could include "suits" of "blue jackets and trowsers, well lined." The Georgian, 27 Nov. 1823. Linda Baumgarten, Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg (Williamsburg, Va., 1986), 204; Ann DuPont, "Textile and Apparel Management Functions Performed by Women in the Nineteenth Century Plantation South," Ars Textrina 18 (Dec. 1992); 55-6; Joan M. Jensen, "Needlework as Art, Craft, and Livelihood before 1900," in A Needle, A Bobbin, A Strike: Women Needleworkers in America, eds. Jensen and Sue Davidson (Philadelphia, 1984), 9; Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume," 180-3; New York Herald, 3 Sept. 1836.
184. This is to be distinguished from "Negro" clothing, which could include "suits" of "blue jackets and trowsers, well lined." The Georgian, 27 Nov. 1823. Linda Baumgarten, Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg (Williamsburg, Va., 1986), 204; Ann DuPont, "Textile and Apparel Management Functions Performed by Women in the Nineteenth Century Plantation South," Ars Textrina 18 (Dec. 1992); 55-6; Joan M. Jensen, "Needlework as Art, Craft, and Livelihood before 1900," in A Needle, A Bobbin, A Strike: Women Needleworkers in America, eds. Jensen and Sue Davidson (Philadelphia, 1984), 9; Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume," 180-3; New York Herald, 3 Sept. 1836.
185. This is to be distinguished from "Negro" clothing, which could include "suits" of "blue jackets and trowsers, well lined." The Georgian, 27 Nov. 1823. Linda Baumgarten, Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg (Williamsburg, Va., 1986), 204; Ann DuPont, "Textile and Apparel Management Functions Performed by Women in the Nineteenth Century Plantation South," Ars Textrina 18 (Dec. 1992); 55-6; Joan M. Jensen, "Needlework as Art, Craft, and Livelihood before 1900," in A Needle, A Bobbin, A Strike: Women Needleworkers in America, eds. Jensen and Sue Davidson (Philadelphia, 1984), 9; Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume," 180-3; New York Herald, 3 Sept. 1836.
186. This is to be distinguished from "Negro" clothing, which could include "suits" of "blue jackets and trowsers, well lined." The Georgian, 27 Nov. 1823. Linda Baumgarten, Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg (Williamsburg, Va., 1986), 204; Ann DuPont, "Textile and Apparel Management Functions Performed by Women in the Nineteenth Century Plantation South," Ars Textrina 18 (Dec. 1992); 55-6; Joan M. Jensen, "Needlework as Art, Craft, and Livelihood before 1900," in A Needle, A Bobbin, A Strike: Women Needleworkers in America, eds. Jensen and Sue Davidson (Philadelphia, 1984), 9; Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume," 180-3; New York Herald, 3 Sept. 1836.
187. This is to be distinguished from "Negro" clothing, which could include "suits" of "blue jackets and trowsers, well lined." The Georgian, 27 Nov. 1823. Linda Baumgarten, Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg (Williamsburg, Va., 1986), 204; Ann DuPont, "Textile and Apparel Management Functions Performed by Women in the Nineteenth Century Plantation South," Ars Textrina 18 (Dec. 1992); 55-6; Joan M. Jensen, "Needlework as Art, Craft, and Livelihood before 1900," in A Needle, A Bobbin, A Strike: Women Needleworkers in America, eds. Jensen and Sue Davidson (Philadelphia, 1984), 9; Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume," 180-3; New York Herald, 3 Sept. 1836.
188. This is to be distinguished from "Negro" clothing, which could include "suits" of "blue jackets and trowsers, well lined." The Georgian, 27 Nov. 1823. Linda Baumgarten, Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg (Williamsburg, Va., 1986), 204; Ann DuPont, "Textile and Apparel Management Functions Performed by Women in the Nineteenth Century Plantation South," Ars Textrina 18 (Dec. 1992); 55-6; Joan M. Jensen, "Needlework as Art, Craft, and Livelihood before 1900," in A Needle, A Bobbin, A Strike: Women Needleworkers in America, eds. Jensen and Sue Davidson (Philadelphia, 1984), 9; Ordonez, "A Frontier Reflected in Costume," 180-3; New York Herald, 3 Sept. 1836.
189. Myron O. Stachine, "'For the Sake of Commerce': Rhode Island, Slavery, and the Textile Industry," an essay accompanying the exhibit The Loom & the Lash (Museum of Rhode Island History, 1982); Isaac Lippincott, "A History of Manufactures of Ohio Valley, to 1860" (Ph.D. diss., University of Chicago, 1912), 169-70. On Army production, see National Archives, RG92, Correspondence File, 1794-1915, entry no. 225.
190. Myron O. Stachine, "'For the Sake of Commerce': Rhode Island, Slavery, and the Textile Industry," an essay accompanying the exhibit The Loom & the Lash (Museum of Rhode Island History, 1982); Isaac Lippincott, "A History of Manufactures of Ohio Valley, to 1860" (Ph.D. diss., University of Chicago, 1912), 169-70. On Army production, see National Archives, RG92, Correspondence File, 1794-1915, entry no. 225.
191. Edney to Cooke, 28 June 1835; 25 July 1835; 19 Mar. 1836; 26 Mar. 1836; 30 Apr. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836. See also 31 Mar. 1837; 26 Sept. 1837.
192. Edney to Cooke, 28 June 1835; 25 July 1835; 19 Mar. 1836; 26 Mar. 1836; 30 Apr. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836. See also 31 Mar. 1837; 26 Sept. 1837.
193. Edney to Cooke, 28 June 1835; 25 July 1835; 19 Mar. 1836; 26 Mar. 1836; 30 Apr. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836. See also 31 Mar. 1837; 26 Sept. 1837.
194. Edney to Cooke, 28 June 1835; 25 July 1835; 19 Mar. 1836; 26 Mar. 1836; 30 Apr. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836. See also 31 Mar. 1837; 26 Sept. 1837.
195. Edney to Cooke, 28 June 1835; 25 July 1835; 19 Mar. 1836; 26 Mar. 1836; 30 Apr. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836. See also 31 Mar. 1837; 26 Sept. 1837.
196. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture, 31; Edney to Cooke, 3 Oct. 1835; 10 Oct. 1835; 25 Oct. 1835; 26 Dec. 1835; 27 Jan. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836; 19 Mar. 1836; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 27 Mar. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837.
197. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture, 31; Edney to Cooke, 3 Oct. 1835; 10 Oct. 1835; 25 Oct. 1835; 26 Dec. 1835; 27 Jan. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836; 19 Mar. 1836; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 27 Mar. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837.
198. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture, 31; Edney to Cooke, 3 Oct. 1835; 10 Oct. 1835; 25 Oct. 1835; 26 Dec. 1835; 27 Jan. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836; 19 Mar. 1836; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 27 Mar. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837.
199. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture, 31; Edney to Cooke, 3 Oct. 1835; 10 Oct. 1835; 25 Oct. 1835; 26 Dec. 1835; 27 Jan. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836; 19 Mar. 1836; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 27 Mar. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837.
200. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture, 31; Edney to Cooke, 3 Oct. 1835; 10 Oct. 1835; 25 Oct. 1835; 26 Dec. 1835; 27 Jan. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836; 19 Mar. 1836; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 27 Mar. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837.
201. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture, 31; Edney to Cooke, 3 Oct. 1835; 10 Oct. 1835; 25 Oct. 1835; 26 Dec. 1835; 27 Jan. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836; 19 Mar. 1836; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 27 Mar. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837.
202. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture, 31; Edney to Cooke, 3 Oct. 1835; 10 Oct. 1835; 25 Oct. 1835; 26 Dec. 1835; 27 Jan. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836; 19 Mar. 1836; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 27 Mar. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837.
203. Ware, The Early New England Cotton Manufacture, 31; Edney to Cooke, 3 Oct. 1835; 10 Oct. 1835; 25 Oct. 1835; 26 Dec. 1835; 27 Jan. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836; 19 Mar. 1836; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 27 Mar. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837.
204. Hansjorg Siegenthaler, "What Price Style? The Fabric-Advistory Function of the Drygoods Commission Merchant, 1850-1880," Business History Review 41 (Spring 1967), 38. "Capitalist realism" is borrowed from Michael Schudson; see Argun Appadurai, "Introduction," in The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective (Cambridge, U.K., 1986). There were ample numbers who did not participate in the clothing revolution. In Schoharie County, New York, for instance, Henry Conklin later remembered how he and his brothers wore clothing made of the coarsest tow and stayed in bed while their mother did the wash since they had only one set of garments. Henry Conklin, Through 'Poverty's Vale': A Hardscrabble Boyhood in Upstate New York, 1832-1862 (Syracuse, N.Y., 1974), xiii. In Milledgeville, Georgia James Moran got married in a homespun jacket in 1825. James C. Bonner, Milledgeville: Georgia's Antebellum Capital (Athens, Ga., 1978), 68. Of related interest is a description of a jury of 24 men, all heads of households, in Tallahassee from these years: "What a motley assemblage! From the huntsman in his leather shirt and breeches ... the squatter in his straw hat, and dressed in coarse domestic stuffs made up by his wife; the little merchant, showing off in all the elegant exaggerated graces of the counter ..." Quoted in Ordonez, "Frontier in Costume," 147.
205. Hansjorg Siegenthaler, "What Price Style? The Fabric-Advistory Function of the Drygoods Commission Merchant, 1850-1880," Business History Review 41 (Spring 1967), 38. "Capitalist realism" is borrowed from Michael Schudson; see Argun Appadurai, "Introduction," in The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective (Cambridge, U.K., 1986). There were ample numbers who did not participate in the clothing revolution. In Schoharie County, New York, for instance, Henry Conklin later remembered how he and his brothers wore clothing made of the coarsest tow and stayed in bed while their mother did the wash since they had only one set of garments. Henry Conklin, Through 'Poverty's Vale': A Hardscrabble Boyhood in Upstate New York, 1832-1862 (Syracuse, N.Y., 1974), xiii. In Milledgeville, Georgia James Moran got married in a homespun jacket in 1825. James C. Bonner, Milledgeville: Georgia's Antebellum Capital (Athens, Ga., 1978), 68. Of related interest is a description of a jury of 24 men, all heads of households, in Tallahassee from these years: "What a motley assemblage! From the huntsman in his leather shirt and breeches ... the squatter in his straw hat, and dressed in coarse domestic stuffs made up by his wife; the little merchant, showing off in all the elegant exaggerated graces of the counter ..." Quoted in Ordonez, "Frontier in Costume," 147.
206. Hansjorg Siegenthaler, "What Price Style? The Fabric-Advistory Function of the Drygoods Commission Merchant, 1850-1880," Business History Review 41 (Spring 1967), 38. "Capitalist realism" is borrowed from Michael Schudson; see Argun Appadurai, "Introduction," in The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective (Cambridge, U.K., 1986). There were ample numbers who did not participate in the clothing revolution. In Schoharie County, New York, for instance, Henry Conklin later remembered how he and his brothers wore clothing made of the coarsest tow and stayed in bed while their mother did the wash since they had only one set of garments. Henry Conklin, Through 'Poverty's Vale': A Hardscrabble Boyhood in Upstate New York, 1832-1862 (Syracuse, N.Y., 1974), xiii. In Milledgeville, Georgia James Moran got married in a homespun jacket in 1825. James C. Bonner, Milledgeville: Georgia's Antebellum Capital (Athens, Ga., 1978), 68. Of related interest is a description of a jury of 24 men, all heads of households, in Tallahassee from these years: "What a motley assemblage! From the huntsman in his leather shirt and breeches ... the squatter in his straw hat, and dressed in coarse domestic stuffs made up by his wife; the little merchant, showing off in all the elegant exaggerated graces of the counter ..." Quoted in Ordonez, "Frontier in Costume," 147.
207. Hansjorg Siegenthaler, "What Price Style? The Fabric-Advistory Function of the Drygoods Commission Merchant, 1850-1880," Business History Review 41 (Spring 1967), 38. "Capitalist realism" is borrowed from Michael Schudson; see Argun Appadurai, "Introduction," in The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective (Cambridge, U.K., 1986). There were ample numbers who did not participate in the clothing revolution. In Schoharie County, New York, for instance, Henry Conklin later remembered how he and his brothers wore clothing made of the coarsest tow and stayed in bed while their mother did the wash since they had only one set of garments. Henry Conklin, Through 'Poverty's Vale': A Hardscrabble Boyhood in Upstate New York, 1832-1862 (Syracuse, N.Y., 1974), xiii. In Milledgeville, Georgia James Moran got married in a homespun jacket in 1825. James C. Bonner, Milledgeville: Georgia's Antebellum Capital (Athens, Ga., 1978), 68. Of related interest is a description of a jury of 24 men, all heads of households, in Tallahassee from these years: "What a motley assemblage! From the huntsman in his leather shirt and breeches ... the squatter in his straw hat, and dressed in coarse domestic stuffs made up by his wife; the little merchant, showing off in all the elegant exaggerated graces of the counter ..." Quoted in Ordonez, "Frontier in Costume," 147.
208. Edney to Cooke, 22 June 1835; 30 Apr. 1836; 21 Mar. 1836; 29 Aug. 1836; 17 Sept. 1836; 26 Mar. 1836.
209. Edney to Cooke, 22 June 1835; 30 Apr. 1836; 21 Mar. 1836; 29 Aug. 1836; 17 Sept. 1836; 26 Mar. 1836.
210. Edney to Cooke, 22 June 1835; 30 Apr. 1836; 21 Mar. 1836; 29 Aug. 1836; 17 Sept. 1836; 26 Mar. 1836.
211. Edney to Cooke, 22 June 1835; 30 Apr. 1836; 21 Mar. 1836; 29 Aug. 1836; 17 Sept. 1836; 26 Mar. 1836.
212. Edney to Cooke, 22 June 1835; 30 Apr. 1836; 21 Mar. 1836; 29 Aug. 1836; 17 Sept. 1836; 26 Mar. 1836.
213. Cost estimations based on Patricia Anne Trautman, "Captain Edward Marrett, a Gentleman Tailor" (Ph.D. diss., University of Colorado, 1982); John Shepherd of New York, N.Y. Merchant Tailoring Accounts. Ac. 861 and 1721 (Ruters University Special Collections); James M. Edney, New York, N.Y., 1835-7, Letter Book to F. H. Cooke of Augusta (Rutgers University Special Collections), 13 Feb. 1836; United States, Seventh Census (1850), Manufactures Schedule, raw data. New York County, N.Y. On fluctuation in cloth prices, see National Archives, RG 92, entry no. 2118, 1830-3: special items, check lists, and indices.
214. Cost estimations based on Patricia Anne Trautman, "Captain Edward Marrett, a Gentleman Tailor" (Ph.D. diss., University of Colorado, 1982); John Shepherd of New York, N.Y. Merchant Tailoring Accounts. Ac. 861 and 1721 (Ruters University Special Collections); James M. Edney, New York, N.Y., 1835-7, Letter Book to F. H. Cooke of Augusta (Rutgers University Special Collections), 13 Feb. 1836; United States, Seventh Census (1850), Manufactures Schedule, raw data. New York County, N.Y. On fluctuation in cloth prices, see National Archives, RG 92, entry no. 2118, 1830-3: special items, check lists, and indices.
215. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
216. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
217. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
218. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
219. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
220. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
221. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
222. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
223. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene,
224. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
225. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
226. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
227. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
228. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
229. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
230. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
231. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
232. Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; Aug. 1836; Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289-91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Lewis E. Atherton, "The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South," Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536-7, 550; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Asa Greene, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116-24.
233. Charles Dickens, American Notes for General Circulation (London, 1972, originally 1842), 220-8.
234. Tocqueville in Marvin Meyers, The Jacksonian Persuasion: Politics and Belief (New York, 1957), 131; Tryon, Household Manufactures, 298-300, 370-5; Thomas Ford, A History of Illinois, from its Commencement as a State in 1818 to 1847, ed. Milo Milton Quaife (Chicago, 1945), 129-30.
235. Tocqueville in Marvin Meyers, The Jacksonian Persuasion: Politics and Belief (New York, 1957), 131; Tryon, Household Manufactures, 298-300, 370-5; Thomas Ford, A History of Illinois, from its Commencement as a State in 1818 to 1847, ed. Milo Milton Quaife (Chicago, 1945), 129-30.
236. Tocqueville in Marvin Meyers, The Jacksonian Persuasion: Politics and Belief (New York, 1957), 131; Tryon, Household Manufactures, 298-300, 370-5; Thomas Ford, A History of Illinois, from its Commencement as a State in 1818 to 1847, ed. Milo Milton Quaife (Chicago, 1945), 129-30.
237. In Federalist No. 14 Madison still thought that improvements in the national transportation infrastructure would, first and foremost, serve government rather than commerce. In 1787, in other words, the republic was still principally defined as a political effort. Alexander Hamilton, et al, The Federalist (New York: Modern Library, 1941), 79-85; Rothenberg, From Market Places to Market Economy, 4; see also Jean-Cristophe Agnew, Worlds Apart: The Market and the Theater in Anglo-American Thought, 1550-1750 (New York, 1986), 17-56; William Cronon, Nature's Metropolis: Chicago and the Great West (New York, 1991), 61; Hunt's (Oct. 1840): 305-310.
238. In Federalist No. 14 Madison still thought that improvements in the national transportation infrastructure would, first and foremost, serve government rather than commerce. In 1787, in other words, the republic was still principally defined as a political effort. Alexander Hamilton, et al, The Federalist (New York: Modern Library, 1941), 79-85; Rothenberg, From Market Places to Market Economy, 4; see also Jean-Cristophe Agnew, Worlds Apart: The Market and the Theater in Anglo-American Thought, 1550-1750 (New York, 1986), 17-56; William Cronon, Nature's Metropolis: Chicago and the Great West (New York, 1991), 61; Hunt's (Oct. 1840): 305-310.
239. In Federalist No. 14 Madison still thought that improvements in the national transportation infrastructure would, first and foremost, serve government rather than commerce. In 1787, in other words, the republic was still principally defined as a political effort. Alexander Hamilton, et al, The Federalist (New York: Modern Library, 1941), 79-85; Rothenberg, From Market Places to Market Economy, 4; see also Jean-Cristophe Agnew, Worlds Apart: The Market and the Theater in Anglo-American Thought, 1550-1750 (New York, 1986), 17-56; William Cronon, Nature's Metropolis: Chicago and the Great West (New York, 1991), 61; Hunt's (Oct. 1840): 305-310.
240. In Federalist No. 14 Madison still thought that improvements in the national transportation infrastructure would, first and foremost, serve government rather than commerce. In 1787, in other words, the republic was still principally defined as a political effort. Alexander Hamilton, et al, The Federalist (New York: Modern Library, 1941), 79-85; Rothenberg, From Market Places to Market Economy, 4; see also Jean-Cristophe Agnew, Worlds Apart: The Market and the Theater in Anglo-American Thought, 1550-1750 (New York, 1986), 17-56; William Cronon, Nature's Metropolis: Chicago and the Great West (New York, 1991), 61; Hunt's (Oct. 1840): 305-310.
241. In Federalist No. 14 Madison still thought that improvements in the national transportation infrastructure would, first and foremost, serve government rather than commerce. In 1787, in other words, the republic was still principally defined as a political effort. Alexander Hamilton, et al, The Federalist (New York: Modern Library, 1941), 79-85; Rothenberg, From Market Places to Market Economy, 4; see also Jean-Cristophe Agnew, Worlds Apart: The Market and the Theater in Anglo-American Thought, 1550-1750 (New York, 1986), 17-56; William Cronon, Nature's Metropolis: Chicago and the Great West (New York, 1991), 61; Hunt's (Oct. 1840): 305-310.
242. New York Sun, 11 Sept. 1835; Asa Greene, A Glance at New York (New York, 1837), 132-4.
243. New York Sun, 11 Sept. 1835; Asa Greene, A Glance at New York (New York, 1837), 132-4.
244. New York Transcript, 21 Aug. 1835; 15 Sept. 1835. New York Herald, 7 June 1836; 7 July 1836; 7 May 1836; 4 Mar. 1836. New York Sun, 26 Apr. 1836; 26 Sept. 1835; 6 Jan. 1836; 11 Sept. 1835; 25 May 1836; On the Tailoresses' and Seamstresses' Clothing Establishment see New York Herald, 1 June 1837; 29 July 1837; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
245. New York Transcript, 21 Aug. 1835; 15 Sept. 1835. New York Herald, 7 June 1836; 7 July 1836; 7 May 1836; 4 Mar. 1836. New York Sun, 26 Apr. 1836; 26 Sept. 1835; 6 Jan. 1836; 11 Sept. 1835; 25 May 1836; On the Tailoresses' and Seamstresses' Clothing Establishment see New York Herald, 1 June 1837; 29 July 1837; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
246. New York Transcript, 21 Aug. 1835; 15 Sept. 1835. New York Herald, 7 June 1836; 7 July 1836; 7 May 1836; 4 Mar. 1836. New York Sun, 26 Apr. 1836; 26 Sept. 1835; 6 Jan. 1836; 11 Sept. 1835; 25 May 1836; On the Tailoresses' and Seamstresses' Clothing Establishment see New York Herald, 1 June 1837; 29 July 1837; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
247. New York Transcript, 21 Aug. 1835; 15 Sept. 1835. New York Herald, 7 June 1836; 7 July 1836; 7 May 1836; 4 Mar. 1836. New York Sun, 26 Apr. 1836; 26 Sept. 1835; 6 Jan. 1836; 11 Sept. 1835; 25 May 1836; On the Tailoresses' and Seamstresses' Clothing Establishment see New York Herald, 1 June 1837; 29 July 1837; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
248. New York Transcript, 21 Aug. 1835; 15 Sept. 1835. New York Herald, 7 June 1836; 7 July 1836; 7 May 1836; 4 Mar. 1836. New York Sun, 26 Apr. 1836; 26 Sept. 1835; 6 Jan. 1836; 11 Sept. 1835; 25 May 1836; On the Tailoresses' and Seamstresses' Clothing Establishment see New York Herald, 1 June 1837; 29 July 1837; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
249. New York Transcript, 21 Aug. 1835; 15 Sept. 1835. New York Herald, 7 June 1836; 7 July 1836; 7 May 1836; 4 Mar. 1836. New York Sun, 26 Apr. 1836; 26 Sept. 1835; 6 Jan. 1836; 11 Sept. 1835; 25 May 1836; On the Tailoresses' and Seamstresses' Clothing Establishment see New York Herald, 1 June 1837; 29 July 1837; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
250. New York Transcript, 21 Aug. 1835; 15 Sept. 1835. New York Herald, 7 June 1836; 7 July 1836; 7 May 1836; 4 Mar. 1836. New York Sun, 26 Apr. 1836; 26 Sept. 1835; 6 Jan. 1836; 11 Sept. 1835; 25 May 1836; On the Tailoresses' and Seamstresses' Clothing Establishment see New York Herald, 1 June 1837; 29 July 1837; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
251. New York Transcript, 21 Aug. 1835; 15 Sept. 1835. New York Herald, 7 June 1836; 7 July 1836; 7 May 1836; 4 Mar. 1836. New York Sun, 26 Apr. 1836; 26 Sept. 1835; 6 Jan. 1836; 11 Sept. 1835; 25 May 1836; On the Tailoresses' and Seamstresses' Clothing Establishment see New York Herald, 1 June 1837; 29 July 1837; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
252. New York Transcript, 21 Aug. 1835; 15 Sept. 1835. New York Herald, 7 June 1836; 7 July 1836; 7 May 1836; 4 Mar. 1836. New York Sun, 26 Apr. 1836; 26 Sept. 1835; 6 Jan. 1836; 11 Sept. 1835; 25 May 1836; On the Tailoresses' and Seamstresses' Clothing Establishment see New York Herald, 1 June 1837; 29 July 1837; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
253. New York Transcript, 21 Aug. 1835; 15 Sept. 1835. New York Herald, 7 June 1836; 7 July 1836; 7 May 1836; 4 Mar. 1836. New York Sun, 26 Apr. 1836; 26 Sept. 1835; 6 Jan. 1836; 11 Sept. 1835; 25 May 1836; On the Tailoresses' and Seamstresses' Clothing Establishment see New York Herald, 1 June 1837; 29 July 1837; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
254. New York Transcript, 21 Aug. 1835; 15 Sept. 1835. New York Herald, 7 June 1836; 7 July 1836; 7 May 1836; 4 Mar. 1836. New York Sun, 26 Apr. 1836; 26 Sept. 1835; 6 Jan. 1836; 11 Sept. 1835; 25 May 1836; On the Tailoresses' and Seamstresses' Clothing Establishment see New York Herald, 1 June 1837; 29 July 1837; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
255. New York Transcript, 21 Aug. 1835; 15 Sept. 1835. New York Herald, 7 June 1836; 7 July 1836; 7 May 1836; 4 Mar. 1836. New York Sun, 26 Apr. 1836; 26 Sept. 1835; 6 Jan. 1836; 11 Sept. 1835; 25 May 1836; On the Tailoresses' and Seamstresses' Clothing Establishment see New York Herald, 1 June 1837; 29 July 1837; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
256. Joan M. Jensen, "Needlework as Art, Craft and Livelihood before 1900" in A Needle, A Bobbin, A Strike: Women Needleworkers in America, eds. Jensen and Sue Davidson (Philadelphia, 1984), 5; Collard, "Canadian Trousers in Transition"; Laurie Casey Crawford, "The Analysis of Mid-Nineteenth Century Men's Outer-Garments from a Deep Ocean Site," (Ph.D. diss., The Ohio State University, 1994), 73, 145, 147, 204; New York City Tailor, measurement book, (New-York Historical Society); Citizens and Strangers, 109; Ellen Leopold, The Manufacture of the Fashion System," in Juliet Ash and Elizabeth Wilson, Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader (Berkeley, Calif., 1992), 112; Lewis and Hanford, Spring Catalogue, 1849 (Warshaw Collection); United States, Seventh U.S. Census (1850), Products of Industry, raw data, New York County.
257. Joan M. Jensen, "Needlework as Art, Craft and Livelihood before 1900" in A Needle, A Bobbin, A Strike: Women Needleworkers in America, eds. Jensen and Sue Davidson (Philadelphia, 1984), 5; Collard, "Canadian Trousers in Transition"; Laurie Casey Crawford, "The Analysis of Mid-Nineteenth Century Men's Outer-Garments from a Deep Ocean Site," (Ph.D. diss., The Ohio State University, 1994), 73, 145, 147, 204; New York City Tailor, measurement book, (New-York Historical Society); Citizens and Strangers, 109; Ellen Leopold, The Manufacture of the Fashion System," in Juliet Ash and Elizabeth Wilson, Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader (Berkeley, Calif., 1992), 112; Lewis and Hanford, Spring Catalogue, 1849 (Warshaw Collection); United States, Seventh U.S. Census (1850), Products of Industry, raw data, New York County.
258. Joan M. Jensen, "Needlework as Art, Craft and Livelihood before 1900" in A Needle, A Bobbin, A Strike: Women Needleworkers in America, eds. Jensen and Sue Davidson (Philadelphia, 1984), 5; Collard, "Canadian Trousers in Transition"; Laurie Casey Crawford, "The Analysis of Mid-Nineteenth Century Men's Outer-Garments from a Deep Ocean Site," (Ph.D. diss., The Ohio State University, 1994), 73, 145, 147, 204; New York City Tailor, measurement book, (New-York Historical Society); Citizens and Strangers, 109; Ellen Leopold, The Manufacture of the Fashion System," in Juliet Ash and Elizabeth Wilson, Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader (Berkeley, Calif., 1992), 112; Lewis and Hanford, Spring Catalogue, 1849 (Warshaw Collection); United States, Seventh U.S. Census (1850), Products of Industry, raw data, New York County.
259. Joan M. Jensen, "Needlework as Art, Craft and Livelihood before 1900" in A Needle, A Bobbin, A Strike: Women Needleworkers in America, eds. Jensen and Sue Davidson (Philadelphia, 1984), 5; Collard, "Canadian Trousers in Transition"; Laurie Casey Crawford, "The Analysis of Mid-Nineteenth Century Men's Outer-Garments from a Deep Ocean Site," (Ph.D. diss., The Ohio State University, 1994), 73, 145, 147, 204; New York City Tailor, measurement book, (New-York Historical Society); Citizens and Strangers, 109; Ellen Leopold, The Manufacture of the Fashion System," in Juliet Ash and Elizabeth Wilson, Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader (Berkeley, Calif., 1992), 112; Lewis and Hanford, Spring Catalogue, 1849 (Warshaw Collection); United States, Seventh U.S. Census (1850), Products of Industry, raw data, New York County.
260. Joan M. Jensen, "Needlework as Art, Craft and Livelihood before 1900" in A Needle, A Bobbin, A Strike: Women Needleworkers in America, eds. Jensen and Sue Davidson (Philadelphia, 1984), 5; Collard, "Canadian Trousers in Transition"; Laurie Casey Crawford, "The Analysis of Mid-Nineteenth Century Men's Outer-Garments from a Deep Ocean Site," (Ph.D. diss., The Ohio State University, 1994), 73, 145, 147, 204; New York City Tailor, measurement book, (New-York Historical Society); Citizens and Strangers, 109; Ellen Leopold, The Manufacture of the Fashion System," in Juliet Ash and Elizabeth Wilson, Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader (Berkeley, Calif., 1992), 112; Lewis and Hanford, Spring Catalogue, 1849 (Warshaw Collection); United States, Seventh U.S. Census (1850), Products of Industry, raw data, New York County.
261. Duncan Bythell, The Sweated Trades: Outwork in Nineteenth Century Britain, (New York, 1978), 166-7; Jeanne Boydston, Home and Work: Housework, Wages, and the Ideology of Labor in the Early Republic (New York, 1990), 131; Christine Stansell, City of Women: Sex and Class in New York, 1789-1860 (Urbana, Ill., 1982), 115; Stott, Workers in the Metropolis, 103-4.
262. Duncan Bythell, The Sweated Trades: Outwork in Nineteenth Century Britain, (New York, 1978), 166-7; Jeanne Boydston, Home and Work: Housework, Wages, and the Ideology of Labor in the Early Republic (New York, 1990), 131; Christine Stansell, City of Women: Sex and Class in New York, 1789-1860 (Urbana, Ill., 1982), 115; Stott, Workers in the Metropolis, 103-4.
263. Duncan Bythell, The Sweated Trades: Outwork in Nineteenth Century Britain, (New York, 1978), 166-7; Jeanne Boydston, Home and Work: Housework, Wages, and the Ideology of Labor in the Early Republic (New York, 1990), 131; Christine Stansell, City of Women: Sex and Class in New York, 1789-1860 (Urbana, Ill., 1982), 115; Stott, Workers in the Metropolis, 103-4.
264. Duncan Bythell, The Sweated Trades: Outwork in Nineteenth Century Britain, (New York, 1978), 166-7; Jeanne Boydston, Home and Work: Housework, Wages, and the Ideology of Labor in the Early Republic (New York, 1990), 131; Christine Stansell, City of Women: Sex and Class in New York, 1789-1860 (Urbana, Ill., 1982), 115; Stott, Workers in the Metropolis, 103-4.
265. Feldman, Fit for Men, 103; Penny, Employments of Women, 111-5; Stansell, City of Women, 111-2, 114.
266. Feldman, Fit for Men, 103; Penny, Employments of Women, 111-5; Stansell, City of Women, 111-2, 114.
267. Feldman, Fit for Men, 103; Penny, Employments of Women, 111-5; Stansell, City of Women, 111-2, 114.
268. Edney to Cooke, 13 Feb. 1836; 31 Dec. 1836; 6 Jan. 1838; 11 Jan. 1838.
269. Edney to Cooke, 13 Feb. 1836; 31 Dec. 1836; 6 Jan. 1838; 11 Jan. 1838.
270. Edney to Cooke, 13 Feb. 1836; 31 Dec. 1836; 6 Jan. 1838; 11 Jan. 1838.
271. Edney to Cooke, 13 Feb. 1836; 31 Dec. 1836; 6 Jan. 1838; 11 Jan. 1838.
272. Richard S. Rosenbloom, "A Conjecture about Fashion and Vertical Process Integration," Business History Review 37 (Spring/Summer 1963): 94-5. Edney to Cooke, 1 Mar. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836. On F.J. Conant's buying strategy see Feldman, "New York's Men's Clothing Trade," 25. New York Herald, 18 Feb. 1836; 7 July 1836; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
273. Richard S. Rosenbloom, "A Conjecture about Fashion and Vertical Process Integration," Business History Review 37 (Spring/Summer 1963): 94-5. Edney to Cooke, 1 Mar. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836. On F.J. Conant's buying strategy see Feldman, "New York's Men's Clothing Trade," 25. New York Herald, 18 Feb. 1836; 7 July 1836; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
274. Richard S. Rosenbloom, "A Conjecture about Fashion and Vertical Process Integration," Business History Review 37 (Spring/Summer 1963): 94-5. Edney to Cooke, 1 Mar. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836. On F.J. Conant's buying strategy see Feldman, "New York's Men's Clothing Trade," 25. New York Herald, 18 Feb. 1836; 7 July 1836; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
275. Richard S. Rosenbloom, "A Conjecture about Fashion and Vertical Process Integration," Business History Review 37 (Spring/Summer 1963): 94-5. Edney to Cooke, 1 Mar. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836. On F.J. Conant's buying strategy see Feldman, "New York's Men's Clothing Trade," 25. New York Herald, 18 Feb. 1836; 7 July 1836; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
276. Richard S. Rosenbloom, "A Conjecture about Fashion and Vertical Process Integration," Business History Review 37 (Spring/Summer 1963): 94-5. Edney to Cooke, 1 Mar. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836. On F.J. Conant's buying strategy see Feldman, "New York's Men's Clothing Trade," 25. New York Herald, 18 Feb. 1836; 7 July 1836; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.
277. Working Man's Advocate, 10 June 1831. Philadelphia Public Ledger, 21 Sept. 1837.
278. Working Man's Advocate, 10 June 1831. Philadelphia Public Ledger, 21 Sept. 1837.
279. Edney to Cooke, 22 Apr. 1837. Davis Rich Dewey, Financial History of the United States (New York, 1907), 225. Atherton, Southern Country Store, 21-2. On these strategems see Greene, Perils of Pearl Street. On the easiness of New York credit for commercial neophytes from the South see Joseph G. Baldwin, The Flush Times of Alabama and Mississippi (New York, 1957).
280. Edney to Cooke, 22 Apr. 1837. Davis Rich Dewey, Financial History of the United States (New York, 1907), 225. Atherton, Southern Country Store, 21-2. On these strategems see Greene, Perils of Pearl Street. On the easiness of New York credit for commercial neophytes from the South see Joseph G. Baldwin, The Flush Times of Alabama and Mississippi (New York, 1957).
281. Edney to Cooke, 22 Apr. 1837. Davis Rich Dewey, Financial History of the United States (New York, 1907), 225. Atherton, Southern Country Store, 21-2. On these strategems see Greene, Perils of Pearl Street. On the easiness of New York credit for commercial neophytes from the South see Joseph G. Baldwin, The Flush Times of Alabama and Mississippi (New York, 1957).
282. Edney to Cooke, 22 Apr. 1837. Davis Rich Dewey, Financial History of the United States (New York, 1907), 225. Atherton, Southern Country Store, 21-2. On these strategems see Greene, Perils of Pearl Street. On the easiness of New York credit for commercial neophytes from the South see Joseph G. Baldwin, The Flush Times of Alabama and Mississippi (New York, 1957).
283. Edney to Cooke, 22 Apr. 1837. Davis Rich Dewey, Financial History of the United States (New York, 1907), 225. Atherton, Southern Country Store, 21-2. On these strategems see Greene, Perils of Pearl Street. On the easiness of New York credit for commercial neophytes from the South see Joseph G. Baldwin, The Flush Times of Alabama and Mississippi (New York, 1957).
284. Jacob Rader Marcus, Memoirs of American Jews, 1775-1865 (New York, 1974), 291-9.