Kinematics of overturning solitary waves and their relations to breaker types

Coastal Engineering

Volumn 29, Issue 3-4, 1997, Pages 317-346

  Yasuda, Takashi ^a   Mutsuda, Hidemi ^a   Mizutani, Natsuki ^a  

^a GIFU UNIVERSITY   (Japan)

Author keywords

Breaker type; Breaker type index; Breaking waves; Internal kinematics; Kinematics of overturning waves; Plunging breaker; Solitary wave; Spilling breaker; Wave on reef

Indexed keywords

ACCELERATION; JETS; KINEMATICS; MATHEMATICAL MODELS; REEFS; SURFACE WATERS; VELOCITY; WATER WAVES;

BOUNDARY INTEGRAL METHOD; BREAKER TYPE INDEX; INTERNAL KINEMATICS; OVERTURNING SOLITARY WAVES; SUBMERGED BREAKWATERS;

COMPUTER SIMULATION;

KINEMATICS; REEFS; SOLITARY WAVES; WAVE HEIGHT;

BREAKING WAVES; KINEMATICS; SOLITARY WAVES; SUBMERGED BREAKWATER; WAVE MODELLING;

EID: 0030985145     PISSN: 03783839     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/S0378-3839(96)00032-4     Document Type: Article

References (14)

1. Dold, J.W. and Peregrine, D.H., 1984. Steep unsteady water waves: An efficient computational scheme. In: Proc. 19 ICCE, Houston, TX, pp. 955-967.
2. Dommermuth, D.G., Yue, D.K.P., Lin, W.M., Rapp, R.J., Chan, E.S. and Melville, W.K., 1988. Deep-water plunging breakers: a comparison between potential theory and experiments. J. Fluid Mech., 189: 423-442.
3. Greated, D.A., Skyner, D.J. and Bruce, T., 1992. Particle Image Velocimeter (PIV) in the coastal engineering laboratory. In: Proc. 23 ICCE, Venice, pp. 212-225.
4. Griffiths, M.W., Easson, W.J. and Greated, C.A., 1992. Measured internal kinematics for shoaling waves with theoretical computations. J. Waterw. Port Coast Ocean Eng. ASCE, 118(3): 280-299.
5. Hara, M., Yasuda, T. and Sakakibara, Y., 1992. Characteristics of a solitary wave breaking caused by a submerged obstacle. In: Proc. 23 ICCE, Venice, pp. 253-266.
6. New, A.L., Mciver, P. and Peregrine, D.H., 1985. Computations of overturning waves. J. Fluid Mech., 150: 233-251.
7. Skyner, D.J., Gray, C. and Greated, C.A. 1990. A comparison of time-stepping numerical predictions with whole-field flow measurement in breaking waves. In: A. Torum and D.T. Gudmestad (Editors), Water Wave Kinematics. Kluwer Academic Pub., pp. 491-508.
8. Tanaka, M., 1986. The stability of solitary waves. Phys. Fluids, 29: 650-655.
9. Yasuda, T., Shinoda, S. and Dalrymple, R.A., 1987. Soliton mode representation for kinematics of shallow water swell. In: R.A. Dalrymple (Editor), Coastal Hydrodynamics. ASCE, pp. 751-764.
10. Yasuda, T., Hara, M. and Tanaka, M., 1990. A computational model of the deformation including overturning of a solitary wave over a submerged obstacle. In: Proc. 3rd Int. Symp. Fluid Dynamics, Nagoya, pp. 919-924.
11. Yasuda, T., Sakakibara, Y. and Hara, M., 1992b. Breaking criteria of a solitary wave passing over a submerged obstacle. In: M.L. Banner and R.H. Grimshow (Editors), Breaking Waves. Springer-Verlag, pp. 347-353.
12. Yasuda, T., Sakakibara, Y. and Hara, M., 1992a. BIM simulation on deformation up to breaking of solitary waves over uneven bottoms. In: W.R. Blain and E. Cabrera (Editors), Proc. HYDROSOFT92, Valencia Fluid Flow Modelling. CMP and Elsevier, pp. 523-535.
13. Yasuda, T. and Sakakibara, Y., 1992. A quantitative evaluation and governing law of breaker type of a solitary wave over a step. Proc. Coastal Eng. JSCE, 39: 51-55.
14. Yasuda, T., Hara, M., Mutsuda, H. and Tada, A., 1993. Internal velocity field at incipient breaking of a solitary wave over a submerged dike. In: Proc. 15 Int. Conf. on BEM, Worcester, pp. 179-192.