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Volumn 39, Issue 1, 1998, Pages 63-94

Dressing up: Clothing, class and gender in post-abolition Zanzibar

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EID: 0006351712     PISSN: 00218537     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1017/S0021853797007111     Document Type: Article
Times cited : (66)

References (207)
  • 4
    • 85034196240 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • note
    • Pemba is one of the two main islands comprising Zanzibar and the main center of clove production in the isles. All translations from Kiswahili are my own.
  • 6
    • 0002562512 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • "I dress in this fashion": Transformations in Sotho dress and women's lives in a Sekhukhuneland village, South Africa
    • both in Hildi Hendrickson (ed.), Durham NC
    • and Deborah James, '"I dress in this fashion": transformations in Sotho dress and women's lives in a Sekhukhuneland village, South Africa', both in Hildi Hendrickson (ed.), Clothing and Difference: Embodied Identities in Colonial and Post-Colonial Africa (Durham NC, 1996), 97-132 and 34-65;
    • (1996) Clothing and Difference: Embodied Identities in Colonial and Post-Colonial Africa , pp. 97-132
    • James, D.1
  • 7
    • 84971945714 scopus 로고
    • Contesting clothes in colonial Brazzaville
    • Phyllis M. Martin, 'Contesting clothes in colonial Brazzaville', J. Afr. Hist., XXXV (1994), 401-26;
    • (1994) J. Afr. Hist. , vol.35 , pp. 401-426
    • Martin, P.M.1
  • 8
    • 0009105245 scopus 로고
    • The political economy of elegance: An African cult of beauty
    • Jonathan Friedman, 'The political economy of elegance: an African cult of beauty', Culture and History, VII (1990), 101-25;
    • (1990) Culture and History , vol.7 , pp. 101-125
    • Friedman, J.1
  • 9
    • 0002031449 scopus 로고
    • Aesthetics, expertise and ethnicity: Okiek and Maasai perspectives on personal ornament
    • T. Spear and R. Waller (eds.), Athens OH
    • Donna Klumpp and Corinne Kratz, 'Aesthetics, expertise and ethnicity: Okiek and Maasai perspectives on personal ornament', in T. Spear and R. Waller (eds.), Being Maasai (Athens OH, 1993), 195-221;
    • (1993) Being Maasai , pp. 195-221
    • Klumpp, D.1    Kratz, C.2
  • 14
    • 21544451343 scopus 로고
    • ed. and trans. James Allen, Los Angeles
    • Mtoro bin Mwinyi Bakari, The Customs of the Swahili People, ed. and trans. James Allen, (Los Angeles, 1981), 148-53. 169-77.
    • (1981) The Customs of the Swahili People , pp. 148-153
    • Bakari, M.B.M.1
  • 16
    • 0004308072 scopus 로고
    • New Haven CN
    • Slavery was not uniformly abolished with the passage of a decree. Those born after 1897 were legally free, while those born before 1897 were able to apply for freedom in court, provided they could prove their ability to maintain themselves independent of their masters. As Cooper clearly demonstrated, the goal of British administrators was to adhere to the rhetoric of abolition while simultaneously guaranteeing the continued productivity of the rural clove economy based on slave labor. Frederick Cooper, From Slaves to Squatters (New Haven CN, 1980); Zanzibar National Archives (hereafter ZNA), AB 4/38, Clove Labour, 1898-1926.
    • (1980) From Slaves to Squatters
    • Cooper, F.1
  • 19
    • 21544440348 scopus 로고
    • Zanzibar
    • ZNA, BA 34/3, Report on the Census Enumeration of the Entire Population (Zanzibar, 1931), While the ethnic category was widely used in Zanzibar in the twentieth century, Sheryl McCurdy has demonstrated that the Manyema ethnicity was itself the product a complex historical creation.
    • (1931) Report on the Census Enumeration of the Entire Population
  • 21
    • 85034161643 scopus 로고
    • 2 vols., London
    • The major shifts in ethnic identity reported in Zanzibar's censuses have been a point of concern for generations of scholars. While many of the first generation of emancipated slaves identified themselves as Swahili, by the 1930s the term Swahili was generally regarded in local usage as a euphemism for former slave. This reality was reflected in the census, when the number of individuals returning themselves as Swahili dropped from roughly 34,000, in the 1920s, to 2,000 by 1931. While I give some indication of why this happened below, I am more concerned with what such shifts say about consciousness and how such changes were articulated in daily practice than what a census can tell us about heritage. ZNA, BA 34/3, 1931 Census; R. R. Kuczynski, Demographic Survey of the British Colonial Empire (2 vols.), (London, 1949, 1977), ii, 650-85;
    • (1949) Demographic Survey of the British Colonial Empire , Issue.2 , pp. 650-685
    • Kuczynski, R.R.1
  • 23
    • 6044251586 scopus 로고
    • Leipzig
    • Oscar Baumann, Die Insel Zanzibar- Archipel (Leipzig, 1897); ZNA, AW 2/27, Map of government and private land, Ngambo, 1910; ZNA, AW 2/26, Map of Ng'ambo, 1892.
    • (1897) Die Insel Zanzibar- Archipel
    • Baumann, O.1
  • 24
    • 85034191868 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • As Frederick Cooper has demonstrated, although the British who established Zanzibar as a protectorate in 1890 worked diligently to create legal mechanisms intended to keep slaves tied to their masters' clove plantations, slaves made a number of very important advances in the struggle to transform their economic and social positions in the period immediately following abolition, including a reduction in the 'work week' from five days to three, as well as reduction in the amount of work performed on these days. Cooper, Slaves, 90-110.
    • Slaves , pp. 90-110
    • Cooper1
  • 25
    • 21544453246 scopus 로고
    • Zanzibar
    • Many slaves without the financial resources to purchase land also began clearing previously unused land and planting tree crops, which thereby established their 'ownership' of the plots on which their trees were planted. ZNA, AB 36/20, Ground Rents, 1898-1912; Report of the Department of Agriculture (Zanzibar, 1910);
    • (1910) Report of the Department of Agriculture
  • 29
  • 30
    • 21544458986 scopus 로고
    • The peasantry under imperialism, 1873-1963
    • Abdul Sheriff and Ed Ferguson (eds.), Athens OH
    • Abdul Sheriff, 'The peasantry under imperialism, 1873-1963', in Abdul Sheriff and Ed Ferguson (eds.), Zanzibar under Colonial Rule (Athens OH, 1991), 109-40.
    • (1991) Zanzibar under Colonial Rule , pp. 109-140
    • Sheriff, A.1
  • 31
    • 21544473107 scopus 로고
    • Bombay
    • Dress was in fact the only way that many of them could distinguish between the Omani and Swahili at this time. C. P. Rigby, Report on the Zanzibar Dominions (Bombay, 1861), 8-9;
    • (1861) Report on the Zanzibar Dominions , pp. 8-9
    • Rigby, C.P.1
  • 36
    • 85034179343 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • note
    • The white cloth shown in Fig. 1 was known as merikani because it was produced and imported from the United States. Once dyed to deep blue or black these same pieces of cloth became known as kaniki, which were worn exclusively by women.
  • 38
    • 0039143600 scopus 로고
    • Islam and cultural hegemony: The ideology of slaveowners on the East African coast
    • Paul Lovejoy (ed.), Beverly Hills CA
    • Frederick Cooper, 'Islam and cultural hegemony: the ideology of slaveowners on the East African coast', in Paul Lovejoy (ed.), The Ideology of Slavery, (Beverly Hills CA, 1981), 271-307.
    • (1981) The Ideology of Slavery , pp. 271-307
    • Cooper, F.1
  • 42
    • 85034156224 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Guillain, Documents, iii, 3. When shown Fig. 4, as part of a clothing survey conducted in 1995, many elderly island residents immediately identified the woman on the left as a slave by her cloth and her shaven head. This survey consisted of an open-ended, 75-part questionnaire about various forms of women's clothing. With the assistance of Ally Hassan, Zuhura Shamte and Maryam Omar, the questionnaire was administered to 31 individuals from a range of class and ethnic backgrounds, living throughout urban Zanzibar. Respondents ranged in age from 50 to 106. Unless directly quoting a response given by an informant, results from this survey will hereafter be referred to as Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995.
    • Documents , vol.3 , pp. 3
    • Guillain1
  • 49
    • 85034178943 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Ruete, Memoirs, 83, 237-8;
    • Memoirs , vol.83 , pp. 237-238
    • Ruete1
  • 53
    • 84870816345 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Ruete, Memoirs, 82-3, 146-7, 237-9;
    • Memoirs , pp. 82-83
    • Ruete1
  • 55
    • 85034162003 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • ZNA, AV 1/16
    • Guillain, Documents, ii, 85; ZNA, AV 1/16.
    • Documents , vol.2 , pp. 85
    • Guillain1
  • 56
    • 85034195255 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • note
    • In the case of Seyyid Said, all of his children, and therefore all of his sons who followed him to the throne were children whose mothers were suria. A child's social position and ethnicity followed the father's line. In Zanzibar it was quite common for a slave concubine to have sons and daughters who ranked among the most élite members of society.
  • 57
    • 85034196002 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Hilal bin Amour bin Seif, Mwembetanga, 14 July 1995
    • Interview with Hilal bin Amour bin Seif, Mwembetanga, 14 July 1995.
  • 59
    • 84870816345 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • While concubines could be forced to change their clothes upon arrival, Ruete and others suggest that such women clung tenaciously to other elements of their cultural heritage, as well as their personal memories of childhood. Women of the harem taught the royal children the customs, traditions, languages and stories of their homelands. Ruete, Memoirs, 5-13, 22, 43-4, 64-7, 210-13. Respect amongst concubines for the social and cultural traditions of East Africa was also expressed through their participation in female puberty initiation ceremonies, although such participation was sometimes restricted to secret or vicarious involvement through support of slave attendants. Interviews with Fatma binti Baraka, Kisiwandui, 15 Sept. 1991; Bakia binti Juma, Miembeni, 10 July 1992; Amina Seif Othman, Michenzani, 19 July 1995; Adija Saloum Bakari, Miembeni, 3 Aug. 1995.
    • Memoirs , pp. 5-13
    • Ruete1
  • 68
    • 85034194714 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • New, Life, 58;
    • Life , pp. 58
    • New1
  • 74
    • 85034176369 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Guillain, however, argues that by as early as the mid 1840s some Swahili women were covering their heads: Guillain, Documents, ii, 84-5.
    • Documents , vol.2 , pp. 84-85
    • Guillain1
  • 75
    • 85034194714 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • New, Life, 60;
    • Life , pp. 60
    • New1
  • 81
    • 21544436787 scopus 로고
    • Zanzibar
    • 'J. P. Farler, Notes on labour in Pemba, 1898', 'J. T. Last, The labour question', and 'Rogers to Hill February 26, 1903', in Clove Labour ZNA, AB 4/38; Report of the Commission of Agriculture (Zanzibar, 1923);
    • (1923) Report of the Commission of Agriculture
  • 84
    • 0347000148 scopus 로고
    • Athens OH
    • Similar processes were long at work along the East African coast. James de Vere Allen, Swahili Origins (Athens OH, 1993), 240-62;
    • (1993) Swahili Origins , pp. 240-262
    • De Allen, J.V.1
  • 87
    • 85034167334 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Osgood, Notes, 35-9, 70;
    • Notes , pp. 35-39
    • Osgood1
  • 90
    • 85034194714 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • New, Life, 56;
    • Life , pp. 56
    • New1
  • 92
    • 85034182545 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Burton, Zanzibar, i, 104, 363, 410-14;
    • Zanzibar , vol.1 , pp. 104
    • Burton1
  • 94
    • 84972971069 scopus 로고
    • Swahili culture reconsidered
    • James de Vere Allen, 'Swahili culture reconsidered', Azania, XI (1974), 105-37.
    • (1974) Azania , vol.11 , pp. 105-137
    • De Allen, J.V.1
  • 95
    • 0006354518 scopus 로고
    • Oxford
    • Johnson notes under his definition of Swahili, 'the term Swahili is a very elastic one, and in some places is used for any native who wears a kanzu or who is a Muhammadan, even only nominally'. Frederick Johnson, A Standard Swahili-English Dictionary (Oxford, 1939), 442. There is a wealth of evidence from court cases, family property files and other archival data to suggest that by the First World War a major shift had taken place in local usage of the term mswahili, or Swahili person, reflecting the recognition that most of those who now identified as Swahili were in fact former slaves.
    • (1939) A Standard Swahili-English Dictionary , pp. 442
    • Johnson, F.1
  • 101
    • 0345323748 scopus 로고
    • Dar es Salaam
    • M. S. Khatib, Taarab Zanzibar (Dar es Salaam, 1992), 17-19. Kongos were made of Manchester cotton and subsequently printed in Holland. After the First World War, competition developed between the British and the Dutch for control of this lucrative cloth trade in East Africa.
    • (1992) Taarab Zanzibar , pp. 17-19
    • Khatib, M.S.1
  • 104
    • 85050247108 scopus 로고
    • Kanga: Popular cloths with messages
    • Werner Graebner (ed.), Atlanta
    • Elisabeth Linnebuhr, 'Kanga: popular cloths with messages', in Werner Graebner (ed.), Sokomoko: Popular Culture in East Africa (Atlanta, 1992), 81-90.
    • (1992) Sokomoko: Popular Culture in East Africa , pp. 81-90
    • Linnebuhr, E.1
  • 110
  • 111
    • 85034157309 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Linnebuhr, 'Kanga', 87-90. According to Handby and Linnebuhr, the precursor to the kanga, known as a leso, was invented in Zanzibar in the late 1870s by women who began sewing imported handkerchiefs together to form cloths because handkerchiefs were cheaper to buy than other colorfully printed cloths. Between the turn of the century and the First World War, women in Zanzibar also began to influence Indian traders to stock kangas printed with aphorisms and sayings, resembling the kanga cloths of today.
    • Kanga , pp. 87-90
    • Linnebuhr1
  • 112
    • 85034166837 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Critics and others jealous of the fame of Siti binti Saadi, Zanzibar's most famous early taarab recording star who moved to town in 1911, popularized several songs that focused on her heritage as a poor, rural slave as well as her dress and physical appearance. The words from one such song are: 'Siti binti Saadi/ when did you become someone?/ You came from the countryside/ wearing only [kaniki] the cloth of slaves./ If it wasn't for your voice/ what would you be eating?' Shaaban, Wasifu, 22;
    • Wasifu , pp. 22
    • Shaaban1
  • 118
    • 85034190550 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Younghusband, Glimpses, 34-5. The frequency with which the color and pattern fashions of kanga changed and went out of fashion was remarked upon by nearly all contemporary observers. While there are no records which specifically detail kanga sales for the early part of the century, in 1929 the kanga began being listed as a separate commodity within the category of cotton-piece goods (CPGs) in the records of the department of overseas trade. Prior to 1929, CPGs of all kinds constituted an average of 25 per cent of all textiles imported to Zanzibar, 10 per cent of those to Tanganyika and 8 per cent of textiles imported into Kenya and Uganda. After 1929, the percentage of printed cotton piece goods, of which the kanga constituted 90 per cent in the case of Zanzibar, nearly doubled. In Tanganyika, kangas constituted only slightly more than 60 per cent of imported printed cotton piece goods, and only 15 per cent in Kenya and Uganda. Report of Overseas Trade, 1923, 19, as cited in Amory, 'Kanga', 34. These figures reflect the relative affluence of people in Zanzibar relative to others in British East Africa as well as the particular cultural tastes of women in different areas. According to these records, even during the depression the demand for kangas in Zanzibar remained surprisingly stable. ZNA, AU 2/59, Record of Mudirs' Meetings.
    • Glimpses , pp. 34-35
    • Younghusband1
  • 120
    • 85034181224 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • unpublished MS
    • Nasra, 'Wanawake', unpublished MS, 6.
    • Wanawake , pp. 6
    • Nasra1
  • 121
    • 85034157295 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Arafa Salum Ahmed, Malindi, 4 July 1995
    • Interview with Arafa Salum Ahmed, Malindi, 4 July 1995.
  • 122
    • 0009875745 scopus 로고
    • London
    • While only some 3 per cent of the Protectorate's estimated slave population applied for their 'freedom papers' the majority of those who did were urban residents, and over 50 per cent were women. Lyne also notes that the majority of town slaves who applied for their freedom in court were vibarua, a special class of East African slave, usually artisans or skilled laborers, who hired themselves out for wages and returned a portion of their wage to their master. Once these slaves 'obtained their liberty their position was vastly improved, for they at once received double for their labour'. Robert Lyne, Zanzibar in Contemporary Times (London, 1905), 183;
    • (1905) Zanzibar in Contemporary Times , pp. 183
    • Lyne, R.1
  • 124
    • 85034183709 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995.
  • 125
    • 85034158082 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Fatuma Abdalla, Uwanja wa Farasi, 16 July 1995
    • Interview with Fatuma Abdalla, Uwanja wa Farasi, 16 July 1995.
  • 126
    • 0028551558 scopus 로고
    • Eurocentrism and African urbanization: The case of Zanzibar's other side
    • Garth Andrew Myers, 'Eurocentrism and African urbanization: the case of Zanzibar's other side', Antipode, XXVI (1994), 195-215.
    • (1994) Antipode , vol.26 , pp. 195-215
    • Myers, G.A.1
  • 127
    • 85034175369 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Maryam Mohamed, Mwembetanga, July 20, 1995. Johnson's dictionary from the 1930s similarly identified the kanga as 'the common town garment'. Johnson, Standard, 172
    • Interview with Maryam Mohamed, Mwembetanga, July 20, 1995. Johnson's dictionary from the 1930s similarly identified the kanga as 'the common town garment'. Johnson, Standard, 172.
  • 128
    • 85034199429 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995.
  • 129
    • 85034179444 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Amina Seif Othman, Michenzani, 14 July 1995
    • Interview with Amina Seif Othman, Michenzani, 14 July 1995.
  • 131
    • 85034163522 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Latifuu Ali Marzuk, Kisimamajongoo, 16 Aug., 1995
    • Interview with Latifuu Ali Marzuk, Kisimamajongoo, 16 Aug., 1995.
  • 132
    • 85034175826 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995.
  • 133
    • 21544448800 scopus 로고
    • Zanzibar
    • The number of individuals who identified themselves as Arabs to census enumerators nearly doubled between 1924 and 1931, from roughly 19,000 to 33,500. ZNA, BA 34/4, Notes on the Census of the Zanzibar Protectorate, 1948 (Zanzibar, 1953), 4.
    • (1953) Notes on the Census of the Zanzibar Protectorate , vol.1948 , pp. 4
  • 134
    • 85034156892 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Adija Saloum Bakari, Miembeni, 3 July 1995
    • Interview with Adija Saloum Bakari, Miembeni, 3 July 1995.
  • 137
    • 0028190389 scopus 로고
    • Reflections on slavery, seclusion, and female labor in the Maradi region of Niger in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries
    • Barbara Cooper, 'Reflections on slavery, seclusion, and female labor in the Maradi region of Niger in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries', J. Afr. Hist. XXXV (1994), 61-78;
    • (1994) J. Afr. Hist. , vol.35 , pp. 61-78
    • Cooper, B.1
  • 139
    • 84934562432 scopus 로고
    • Hegemonic relations and gender resistance: The new veiling as accommodating protest in Cairo
    • Arlene MacLeod, 'Hegemonic relations and gender resistance: the new veiling as accommodating protest in Cairo', Signs, XVII (1992), 533-7;
    • (1992) Signs , vol.17 , pp. 5337
    • MacLeod, A.1
  • 140
  • 141
  • 142
    • 85034163509 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • note
    • According to survey respondents, rural women of wealth followed the veiling fashions of town more closely while very poor women in town or more recent immigrants from the mainland were often content with the simplicity and affordability of the kanga.
  • 143
    • 21544441691 scopus 로고
    • Oxford
    • Only two informants, both well past ninety years of age, had any idea when the buibui was first introduced. Both of them dated it to the reign of Seyyid Ali (1902-11). Interviews with Hilal bin Amour Seif, Mwembetanga, 14 July 1995 and Arafa Salum, Malindi, 4 July 1995. The dictionary of A. C. Madan, English-Swahili Dictionary (Oxford, 1903), also has an entry for buibui, defining it as a kind of large veil covering the entire body and worn by some women in Zanzibar when out of doors.
    • (1903) English-Swahili Dictionary
    • Madan, A.C.1
  • 146
    • 85034182711 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interviews with Mwanamvita Mrisho, Kwahani, 16 July 1995; Mauwa binti Khamis, Daraja Bovu, 24 July 1995
    • Interviews with Mwanamvita Mrisho, Kwahani, 16 July 1995; Mauwa binti Khamis, Daraja Bovu, 24 July 1995.
  • 149
    • 85034160422 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995.
  • 150
    • 85034187703 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • note
    • Although some women began to abandon the ghubighubi style in the 1950s, survey respondents were in consensus that after the 'revolution', in 1964, women were no longer allowed to cover themselves in such a way. Some women suggested that prohibitions on ghubighubi were the result of socialist policies intended to bring women out of purdah and make them the equals of men. Other women argued, however, that the new President Karume banned ghubighubi out of fear that an enemy intent on assassinating him could hide a weapon, as well as their own identity, under the cover of a buibui worn in such a way. Regardless of the reason, after 1964 the ghubighubi fashion was no longer worn by women in Zanzibar.
  • 151
    • 85034198430 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995.
  • 152
    • 85034179941 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Fatuma Abdalla, Uwanja wa Farasi, 16 July 1995
    • Interview with Fatuma Abdalla, Uwanja wa Farasi, 16 July 1995.
  • 153
    • 85034178038 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Adija Saloum Bakari, Miembeni, 3 July 1995
    • Interview with Adija Saloum Bakari, Miembeni, 3 July 1995.
  • 155
    • 85034172433 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • This form of Islam spread widely throughout East Africa during the period between the two World Wars. Nimtz, Islam, 3-15, 55-86;
    • Islam , pp. 3-15
    • Nimtz1
  • 157
    • 85034179890 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995.
  • 158
    • 85034178312 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with BiMkubwa Stadi, Kisimamajongoo, 8 Aug. 1995
    • Interview with BiMkubwa Stadi, Kisimamajongoo, 8 Aug. 1995.
  • 159
    • 21544432920 scopus 로고
    • One of the most important branches of the Qadiriyya in East Africa was founded by Sheikh Uways bin Mohammed who first came to Zanzibar from Somalia in 1884 and initiated many adherents into the brotherhood. Students of his are widely credited with spreading the Qadiriyya throughout mainland Tanzania. Nimtz, Islam, 57-60. Several sources from the mainland coast credit the arrival of the buibui to the efforts of Hadhrami sheriffs, many of whom were also involved in the Qadiriyya brotherhoods. Allen in fact argues that the buibui was imported into East Africa by men from Shihir. I have found no evidence to substantiate this claim. Available evidence also seems to indicate that the type of veil worn by women in Yemen at this time was distinctly different than the buibui. The Yemeni veil, although black, consisted of two or three separate pieces, whereas the buibui was constructed as a one piece garment. I would argue that the spread of the buibui was not solely the work of the sheriffs, but was part of a larger process of the spread of Sufi Islam which was occurring during these same years. Additionally, there were very few women from the Hadhramout or Shihir who came to live in East Africa. While male immigrants from these two areas resident in Zanzibar numbered in the thousands by the 1920s, few of them brought women from their homelands with them. It is therefore even less likely that male immigrants could have had such a dramatic impact on the fashions of women in Zanzibar. Written and oral sources suggest that many of these men married local women, and what is in fact more likely is that many of these women changed their ethnicity after marriage. As Shelswell-White articulated in a colonial report he authored, '... as their women rarely emigrate, Hadhramis who settle in the islands mostly marry local women ... so that a large proportion of those included in the census returns as Hadhramis were by no means of pure stock'. ZNA, AB 12/133, G. H. Shelswell-White, 'Notes on the Hadhrami and Shihiri community in Zanzibar', 1935;
    • (1935) Notes on the Hadhrami and Shihiri Community in Zanzibar
    • Shelswell-White, G.H.1
  • 161
    • 85034175339 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Mtoro
    • James Allen in Mtoro, Customs, 299, n. 8.
    • Customs , Issue.8 , pp. 299
    • Allen, J.1
  • 162
    • 85034201016 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995.
  • 163
    • 85034156792 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Ibid.
    • Ibid.
  • 164
    • 85034197367 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Salma Haifa, Kisimamajongoo, 29 June 1995
    • Interview with Salma Haifa, Kisimamajongoo, 29 June 1995.
  • 165
    • 85034158615 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • note
    • Additional precautions were sometimes taken, such as purchasing a special pair of cheap shoes which were switched mid-journey for one's regular shoes when out on illicit excursions. Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995. There are also numerous tales of men hiding their identities under the cover of women's veils in order to effect escapes. One such tale is that told by Emily Ruete of Seyyid Barghash's use of the veil to escape from house-arrest during his dispute with Seyyid Majid. Ruete, Memoirs, 237-9.
  • 166
    • 85034159818 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995.
  • 167
    • 85034167104 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Fatuma Abdalla, Uwanja wa Farasi, 16 July 1995
    • Interview with Fatuma Abdalla, Uwanja wa Farasi, 16 July 1995.
  • 168
    • 85034165486 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • note
    • Zanzibar Clothing Survey, 1995. Women from wealthy, Arab or high-status family backgrounds were typically given their first buibui by their mothers when they were between the ages of seven and ten. Women born in Ng'ambo whose parents were of the laboring classes generally received their first buibui at puberty, or roughly age 14, while those born outside of the isles or in the countryside were often only given a buibui by their husbands as part of their marriage trousseau.
  • 169
    • 85034200588 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Shemsa Mohammed, Kisimamajongoo, 29 June 1995
    • Interview with Shemsa Mohammed, Kisimamajongoo, 29 June 1995.
  • 170
    • 85034178161 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • note
    • Interview with Adija Saloum Bakari, Miembeni, 3 July 1995. Bibi Adija was born during the First World War and estimated that her mother was in her late twenties or early thirties at the time of her birth.
  • 171
    • 85034201331 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • note
    • Bi Kaje Mwenye Matano in Mirza, Three, 27; Pearce, Zanzibar, 239; Ingrams, Zanzibar, 221-2, 309; ZNA, AV 27; ZNA, AV 22; ZNA, AV 7; F. B. Wilson Picture Collection, housed in the Zanzibar Peace Museum.
  • 175
    • 85034199749 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Burton, Zanzibar, i, 463-7.
    • Zanzibar , vol.1 , pp. 463-467
    • Burton1
  • 176
    • 84899175951 scopus 로고
    • Habari za Amur bin Nasur
    • Berlin
    • Free women from propertied families also often gave birth to children with several different fathers over the course of the lives. Amur bin Nasur, whose uncle was a prominent member of Seyyid Majid's administration (1856-70) and whose father was a plantation owner in Pangani, was the fourth child born by his mother, with three different fathers. 'Habari za Amur bin Nasur', in C. G. Buttner (ed.), Anthologie aus der Suaheli-Literatur (Berlin, 1894), 147-75.
    • (1894) Anthologie aus der Suaheli-Literatur , pp. 147-175
    • Buttner, C.G.1
  • 177
    • 85025609528 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The parents of 50 per cent of the women interviewed in 1995 were of different ethnic backgrounds. Various forms of census and interview data also suggest that the percentage of women who married more than one man over the course of their life was well over 60 per cent. ZNA, DJ 1/ Marriage, birth and death registries; ZNA, AP 28/ Idadi ya Koo; Buttner, Anthologie, 147-54.
    • Anthologie , pp. 147-154
    • Buttner1
  • 178
    • 85034171906 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • ZNA, AB 10/108: Rusoona binti Tamim; ZNA, AB 10/116 Surias of the late Seyyid Ali; ZNA, AB 10/200 Royal Marriages Decree
    • ZNA, AB 10/108: Rusoona binti Tamim; ZNA, AB 10/116 Surias of the late Seyyid Ali; ZNA, AB 10/200 Royal Marriages Decree.
  • 179
    • 85034194435 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • note
    • Interview with Amina Seif Othman, Michenzani, 14 July 1995; ZNA, HC 3/549 Noor binti Ali v. Ali bin Omor; ZNA, HC 3/335 Fatma binti Mohamed v. Shariff Mohammed; ZNA, HC 3/319 Jena binti Manji v. Hassam Alibhai; ZNA, HC 3/840 Fatma and Marriam Bakheresa v. Hemed bin Said; ZNA, HC 8/60 Shariffa binti Barghash v. the government; ZNA, HC 8/100 Tufaha binti Nusura v. Azan bin Suleiman; ZNA, HC 8/86 Mgeni binti Salim v. Seif bin Mahomed; ZNA, AP 28/46, Idadi yo Koo, Ng'ambo; ZNA, AP 28/2 Idadi ya Koo, Fuoni.
  • 182
    • 85034196162 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Burton, Zanzibar, i, 393-4;
    • Zanzibar , vol.1 , pp. 393-394
    • Burton1
  • 183
    • 84990904106 scopus 로고
    • Cambridge, ZNA, AB 10/200 Royal Marriages Decree
    • Randall Pouwels, Horn and Crescent (Cambridge, 1987), 195; ZNA, AB 10/200 Royal Marriages Decree.
    • (1987) Horn and Crescent , pp. 195
    • Pouwels, R.1
  • 188
    • 84975968868 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • ZNA, AB 8/87 Report of the Committee Appointed to Advise on Matters Relating to Native Administration
    • 1931 Census; ZNA, AB 8/87 Report of the Committee Appointed to Advise on Matters Relating to Native Administration, 1932-39;
    • 1931 Census , pp. 1932-1939
  • 192
    • 85034191366 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • ZNA, BA 16/40, Debates of the Legislative Council, 6 March 1931, appendix, 47-49; Ibuni, History, 13; ZNA, AB 8/87, Native Administration, 1932-39. Rather than request that the state confer the honor of reclassification, many propertied 'Africans' took personal initiative in this process and began identifying themselves to members of the colonial administration as Arabs. Between the 1924 census and that of 1931 the number of persons identifying themselves as 'Arab' nearly doubled, from roughly 18,800 to 33,400. 'Notes on the Census of 1948', 4.
    • History , pp. 13
    • Ibuni1
  • 193
    • 85034175165 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The Shirazi Association, formed in Pemba island in the late 1930s had as one of its principle goals promoting smallholder peasant access to the benefits of the Clove Growers Association, including credit and marketing opportunities. The growth of the Shirazi Association on Zanzibar island was much more closely linked to demands for access to rationed goods during the Second World War. In both cases individuals defined as 'African' resented that access to material items like credit, food and kanga could be reserved by the state for 'Arabs'. ZNA, AB 12/2 Shirazi Association; ZNA, AK 17/70 Rationing; ZNA, AU 2/59 Records of Mudirs Meetings, 1944-57;
    • AU 2/59 Records of Mudirs Meetings , pp. 1944-1957
  • 196
    • 85034186709 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • note
    • Beginning in the late 1930s, it became increasingly rare for women in Zanzibar to be seen working out of doors or even going to shop in the public food market. Leisure activities also became increasingly segregated by sex, as women moved previously public ngoina performances indoors or behind a fence and men became more involved in football clubs in which women took only marginal interest. Interviews with Abdulrahman Othman, Jang'ombe, 14 June 1991; Mohamed Ali, Malindi, 29 June 1992; Nasra Mohamed Hilal, Malindi, 25 Oct. 1992; Amina Aboud, Vikokotoni, 23 Dec. 1991; Bakia binti Juma, Miembeni, 10 July 1992.
  • 197
    • 85034168117 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • note
    • Although several elderly Arab respondents, born at or before the turn of the century, recalled their grandmothers or great-grandmothers wearing a barakoa, by the turn of the century 'only the very, very-wealthy wore them, because they were far beyond the means of most women'. Interviews with Hilal bin Amour bin Seif, Mwembetanga, 14 July 1995; Ghaniya Said, Malindi, 14 July 1995; Nunu Salum, Kisiwandui, 18 July 1995.
  • 199
    • 85034199749 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Burton, Zanzibar, i, 463, 467-8;
    • Zanzibar , vol.1 , pp. 463
    • Burton1
  • 202
    • 84870816345 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Ruete, Memoirs, 42-4, 223-48;
    • Memoirs , pp. 42-44
    • Ruete1
  • 204
    • 21544435938 scopus 로고
    • Memoirs of an Arabian princess
    • Hollis, 'Supplement'; Sir John Gray, 'Memoirs of an Arabian princess', Tanganyika Notes and Records (1954), 49-70.
    • (1954) Tanganyika Notes and Records , Issue.SUPPL. , pp. 49-70
    • Gray, J.1
  • 205
    • 85034164871 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • note
    • Files in the Zanzibar archives recount numerous turbulent episodes between the British administration and female members of the royal family who asserted their autonomy by marrying against the wishes of their families, having children after the death, or exile, of their masters and engaging in other 'public behaviour' which Europeans found 'patently offensive'. ZNA, AB 10/116 Surias of the late Seyyid Ali bin Said; ZNA, AB 10/108 Rusoona binti Tamim, ex-Sultan's concubine; ZNA, AB 10/215; Seyyida Sheriffa binti Bargash bin Said and Seyyida Aliya binti Bargash; ZNA, AB 10/200, Royal Marriages Decree.
  • 206
    • 21744458721 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Identity, difference and dance: Female initiation in Zanzibar, 1890-1930
    • Laura Fair, 'Identity, difference and dance: female initiation in Zanzibar, 1890-1930', Frontiers : a Journal of Women Studies, XVII (1996), 146-72.
    • (1996) Frontiers : A Journal of Women Studies , vol.17 , pp. 146-172
    • Fair, L.1
  • 207
    • 85034160190 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Adija Saloum Bakari, Miembeni, 3 Aug. 1995
    • Interview with Adija Saloum Bakari, Miembeni, 3 Aug. 1995.


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